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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 65, Issue 8 - Dec 2015
Volume 65, Issue 7 - Nov 2015
Volume 65, Issue 6 - Sep 2015
Volume 65, Issue 5 - Aug 2015
Volume 65, Issue 4 - Jun 2015
Volume 65, Issue 3 - Apr 2015
Volume 65, Issue 2 - Feb 2015
Volume 65, Issue 1 - Jan 2015
Selecting the target year
The Characteristics of Types on Ancient Wooden Shoes(Namagsin) of Korea and Japan
Lee, Ho Jung ; Cho, Woo Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1~14
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.001
This study is aims to study the background of how the shape of the wooden shoes developed and worn by Koreans and Japanese in the ancient times by sorting and examining the types and shapes. Relevant bibliography, which are mainly related to the excavated wooden shoes from 3 B.C.E to C.E. 8., were used as research materials. The formation of wooden shoes required easy access to raw materials -which is trees- for production. According to the analysis, both Korea and Japan made the flat wooden shoes using cuboid wood. Both countries bore a hole on a specific location to distinguish the right foot and left foot, however the style of the heel was different in the two countries. The slip-on(Undu-hyeong) wooden shoes were also common in both countries. The slip-on had no-heels and was made by digging-out a piece of the cuboid wood. Some slip-ons made by the Japanese had furrows on the bottom, and they were known to make different types of the slip-on wooden shoes depending on the purpose. Observation of the wearing methods show that commonality can be found between the wooden shoes of Korea and Japan, and this indicates that cultural exchanges between the Silla/Baekje and Japan took place from the 4th to the 6th century. Also, the flat wooden shoes in Japan developed rapidly, as the shoes became an integral part of its life and culture, which was closely tied to agriculture. Eventually, due to the difference in climate and life-style, the slip-ons became the primary type of wooden shoes in Korea, while the flats became the main type of wooden shoes in Japan. It is, however, clear that as the relationship between the two countries became closer, the cultural exchanges regarding the wooden shoes were considerable.
The Analysis on the Characteristics and the Structure of the Semi Automatic Dongdahoe Loom
Park, Yoon Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 15~24
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.015
Dahoe is a traditional Korean term for cords and Dongdahoe for round cords. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the structure of a semi-automatic loom depicted in the paintings of Jun Geun Kim, and verify whether it actually worked or not. Jun Geun Kim is a genre painter of the late Joseon Dynasty. His nom de plume is Gisan and he drew genre paintings for foreigners who visited Korea in the late 19th century. These paintings are important in understanding the lifestyle and custom of the times. His paintings at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin in Germany and the British Museum in England both depict a semi automatic loom that operates two looms at the same time. This is a unique loom that is not found in any other country and currently no artifacts of such loom exist in Korea. The study went through the following steps: We first analyzed the structure and the operating mechanism of the loom in the painting. The structure of each parts and their roles were also analyzed. Then a loom that was similar in structure and size was made to check if it was operational. The loom depicted in the paintings had some problems, and adjustments to fix the said problems were made accordingly. Wood was primarily used to make the
loom. The loom was used to make Dahoe and the study confirmed that there were no differences between the handmade Dongdahoe and the Dongdahoe made with the semi automatic loom.
Study on Influence and Diffusion of Word-of-Mouth in Online Fashion Community Network
Song, Kieun ; Lee, Duk Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 25~35
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.025
The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of members and communities that have significant influence in the online fashion community through their word-of-mouth activities. In order to identify the influence and the diffusion of word-of-mouth in fashion community, the study selected one online fashion community. Then, the study sorted the online posts and comments made on fashion information and put them into the matrix form to perform social network analysis. The result of the analysis is as follows: First, the fashion community network used in the study has many active members that relay information very quickly. Average time for information diffusion is very short, taking only one or two days in most cases. Second, the influence of word-of-mouth is led by key information produced from only a few members. The number of influential members account for less than 20% of the total number of community members, which indicate high level of degree centrality. The diffusion of word-of-mouth is led by even fewer members, which represent high level of betweenness centrality, compared to the case of degree centrality. Third, component characteristic shares similar information with about 70% of all members being linked to maximize information influence and diffusion. Fourth, a node with high degree centrality and betweenness centrality shares similar interests, presenting strain effect to particular information. Specially, members with high betweenness centrality show similar interests with members of high degree centrality. The members with high betweenness centrality also help expansion of related information by actively commenting on posts. The result of this research emphasizes the necessity of creation and management of network to efficiently convey fashion information by identifying key members with high level of information influence and diffusion to enhance the outcome of online word-of-mouth.
Analysis of Designs that Applied Clothing Functionalities Related to Bicycle Riding Conditions of Domestic and Foreign Brands
Jeong, Hoonsil ; Seo, Yeaji ; Kim, Youngin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 36~47
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.036
The purpose of this study is to provide essential information conducive to designing efficient cycling apparel for everyday wear. To this end, this study identified key situations that cyclists face while riding their bicycles as well as clothing functions that are necessary for each situation. Furthermore, this study also analyzed the current trends in cycling apparels and hybrid designs. In order to analyze the current trends of clothing functionality in domestic and foreign cycling apparel brands, the researchers of this study first reviewed existing literature on the functionality of cycling clothing. Then a focus group, which comprised of two experts in cycling fashion brands and fourteen consumers, was formed and in-depth interviews were conducted to identify the major conditions related to bicycle riding. Based on the results of the interview, the study, then, classified 700 images of cycling clothing from exhibitions and 1,541 images of cycling clothing that were launched by domestic and foreign fashion brands. The results of this study were as follows. First, there were three major conditions in bicycle riding: night riding, weather changes and riding convenience. Second, functionalities required for each riding condition were as follows: visibility for night riding, comfort, waterproofness and heat preservation properties for weather changes, and elasticity, protective properties and storage capacity for riding convenience. Finally, hybrid designs for each riding condition were different from general designs.
A Research into the Characteristics of Fashion/Textile Design Practice-Led PhD Theses in the UK
Kim, Hye Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 48~62
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.048
Practice is essential in art and design. Through practice, artists gain tacit knowledge that is hard to acquire from conventional academic studies. This paper characterizes practice-led research in the study of fashion and textile design through the investigation of practice-led research theses in the UK. According to relevant literature, which includes four exemplary case studies, the following features can be drawn: First, the methodology is different in each case and the use of practice is unconventional. Second, the research is not always aimed at making products. Third, the structure follows an iterative process. Fourth, the ratios of theory and practice are different and various theories are used. Fifth, a personal journal or diary is used for reflection as a major aid to research. Lastly, the process should be recorded by a thorough academic method. Practice-led research can have unexpected outcomes in theory and practice. It can be a good option for fashion practice research to develop a better evaluation method and reduce the gap between subjectivity and objectivity.
Culture Adaptive Attitudes and Donning Practices of Traditional Dress Among Japanese Marriage Immigrant Women
Kim, Soon-Young ; Choo, Ho-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 63~78
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.063
This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and traditional dress donning practices among Japanese women who immigrated to Korea after marrying Korean men. Quantitative research was conducted on Korean-Japanese multicultural families. Participants were 233 married women who emigrated from Japan to Korea currently living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings were as follows: First, a positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes(HAA) and Kimono transmission attitudes(KTA). Both HAA and KTA had a positive relationship with ethnic identity. 43.3% of the respondents thought that they belonged both to Korean and Japanese ethnicity, 30.5% to Korean ethnicity, and 26.2% to Japanese ethnicity. Similar tendency (64.8% to bicultural identity, 31.3% to Korean, and 3.9% to Japanese) was found in the ethnic orientation towards their children. Both HAA and KTA had no difference in accordance with nationality, education and income level. Second, 70.4% of women had no experience of wearing Hanbok, and 90.1% had no experience of wearing Kimono. The women mostly wore Hanbok and Kimono for social events and family weddings.
A Study on Women's Daily Headdresses in the Joseon Dynasty
Kang, Seo-Young ; Kim, Jiyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 79~98
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.079
This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.
Expressive Methods of Uncanny Image in Contemporary Fashion
Yu, Arim ; Suh, Seunghee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 99~111
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.099
The purpose of this study is to identify the expression methods of uncanny images shown in contemporary fashion through the visual expression methods of plastic arts. The study results are as following. First, there is a concept-forming element of 'The return of Repressed', which is a psychological mechanism for generating uncanny sets to the component of 'repression' and 'return'. 'Repression' herein consisted of 'unconsciousness', 'the other', and 'anxiety', while the return was composed of 'trauma' and 'repetition compulsion'. Second, there are visual expression methods of the uncanny in contemporary art. The subject of 'repressed things' was expressed as grotesque and having a terrible look. 'Fragmented body' was analyzed as 'dismantling' by mutilation, 'combination' placing cut body parts in other places, and 'damage' suffering from an illness or accident. 'Fear of death' was shown as 'anatomy' reminiscent of death and 'iconography of death' meaning return of the dead. 'Post-human' was a surrealistic being such as a monster and mechanized human, and was analyzed as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'. Third, the methods of visual expression of the uncanny reflected on contemporary fashion was analyzed as 'fragmented body', 'fear of death', and 'post-human'. 'Fragmented body' appeared as the object reminiscent of the fragmented body, 'dismantling and combination of the body', and 'damage of the body' through the distortion of the clothing construction principle. 'Fear of death' visualized the characteristic elements of the subject reminiscent of death as 'iconography of death' and 'symbolic object of death' through the motif. 'Post-human' was the description of the subject beyond the body's function and form, and was shown as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'.
A Study on Historical Research for Costume of Banya(般若) in King Gongmin's Period of Late Goryeo - Focused on the Buddhist Service Costume -
Choi, Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 112~132
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.112
Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.
The Expressive Characteristics of Fashion Installation in Henrik Vibskov Collection
Ko, Hyunzin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 6, 2015, Pages 133~147
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.133
The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.