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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 65, Issue 8 - Dec 2015
Volume 65, Issue 7 - Nov 2015
Volume 65, Issue 6 - Sep 2015
Volume 65, Issue 5 - Aug 2015
Volume 65, Issue 4 - Jun 2015
Volume 65, Issue 3 - Apr 2015
Volume 65, Issue 2 - Feb 2015
Volume 65, Issue 1 - Jan 2015
Selecting the target year
Study on Different Body Types between Korean-Chinese and Han-Chinese Women in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture and the Social Environmental Factors - With the Focus on the Women in their 60's -
Lin, Hui-Shun ; Im, Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 1~18
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.001
The purpose of this paper is to compare the body types of Korean-Chinese and Han-Chinese women in their 60's dwelling in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture. In addition, a survey was conducted to analyze the social and environmental factors that would decide the body types of these two groups of individuals. 1) The comparison of 74 items in physical measurements between the Korean-chinese and Han-chinese showed differences in 36 items. 2) As for the body measurements of women, difference was found between the Han-Chinese and Korean-Chinese in all height items except bust height, circumference, depth, length, and weight. The values of Korean-Chinese were lower than those of Han-Chinese. 3) Cluster analysis shows that Korean- Chinese women appear thinner in regards to common weight, while Han-Chinese women appear to be thicker in regards to with common thinness. 4) Korean-Chinese women dwelling in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture maintained unique traditional customs and eating habits of Korea and were in constant contact with Korean cultures, which seems to make them care more about body management for health and beauty.
A Study on the Formativeness of Tuta, an Artistic Clothing Influenced by Futurism
Cho, Youngah ; Geum, Keysook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 19~31
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.019
Futurists put forward creative fashion by combining art and functionality. This led to a new aesthetic approach in how we view modernized industrial cities. Ernesto Thayaht, a futurist, introduced the "Tuta", which was simple and practical clothes. Tuta expressed the imagination and aesthetic values of Futurism. The characteristics of the Tuta were categorized into the following: Form, Colors, Materials, and Details. The results of examining its characteristics as follows: Tuta had a linear and simple planar pattern, which could be made with one cloth. The same modernized urban colors were used for the top and the bottom. Practical Materials, such as cotton and linen were used because they were easy to wash. Tuta excluded unnecessary ornaments, and only included functional details that would allow for comfortable movement. These design characteristics of Tuta revealed functionality, popularity, modernity, and innovativeness of formativeness. Tuta presented a new model of fashion in the early 20th century and completed the modernization of clothes. Tuta reflected the democratic and equal spirit of the era by innovating and overcoming the structure and form of conventional clothing.
Changing Trends and Classification of Composition Styles of Treasure Patterns on Textiles in Joseon Period
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Lee, Eunjin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 32~46
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.032
Treasures patterns are simplified designs of vessels used in everyday life, which were symbols of luck. Treasures patterns on textiles are largely assorted into four groups: eight auspicious patterns of Buddhism, eight immortal patterns of Taoism, seven treasures patterns of King Chakravarti in the Buddhist Scriptures and normal treasures patterns. Among them normal treasures patterns are most commonly used. Records in the Joseon documents show these patterns as being composed of seven treasures patterns or eight treasures patterns. But observation of the actual relics show that these patterns ranged from four to ten patterns. Korean traditional textiles treasures patterns began to appear in Korea on the relics of the last of Goryeo period. They were used as sub-patterns among main patterns of dynamically rising cloud patterns with five heads. Treasures patterns in the early Joseon period were commonly used as sub-patterns, and cloud and treasures pattern were prime examples of this. In the 16th century, lotus vine pattern, small flower vine pattern, or small flower pattern were often used as main patterns and treasures patterns were regularly used as sub-patterns. The robe of the Great Monk of Seo San was unique, in that both main and sub patterns consisted of the treasures patterns. From the 17th century, treasures patterns began to be used as main patterns. For example, a relic with eight alternatively arranged treasures patterns were found. Though there were still some cases where the patterns were used as sub-patterns, they begin to appear bigger than the previous period and became similar to main patterns in size. In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were various cases where treasures patterns were combined with flowers, fruits, animals, and letter patterns and used as main patterns. And there are many different methods of representing and developing the patterns.
A Study on the Conservation of Lady Shim's Costume Excavated in Jecheon Province
Park, Bong Soon ; Lee, Mok Kun ; Chang, In Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 47~59
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.047
This paper studies the conservation treatment of Lady Shim's costume, which was excavated in Jecheon Province in 2012. There were the significant problems, which were encountered in the treatment of the costume ; First the Jeogoris were transformed during the excavation, Second fibers were seriously deteriorated, Third most of the fabrics such as Chusa were readily deformed. To overcome these problems and to secure stability in the conservation treatment, we decided to alternate between two different washing methods ; dry cleaning by n-hexane and wet cleaning by water. The costume shape was recovered by steaming and by swelling with Hanji(Korean traditional paper). The combined cleaning method proved to be relatively efficient and stable. In addition, the shape of Chusa was well preserved by dry cleaning.(using n-hexane also solved the problem of bad smell after washing with organic solvents.) The effects of the conservation treatment on the excavated costumes could be seen in the change of Lab color difference. Washing made the distribution of Lab color difference narrower, which may suggest that the impurities on the fiber was removed by washing. In addition, the value of L was greater than a-value and b-value after the treatment. This result indicates that the change of value represents the change of color difference by cleaning.
A Study on the Construction Technique of Western Women's Jacket in the Late 19th Century
Ryu, Kyung Hwa ; Kim, Yang Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 60~74
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.060
It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.
Study on the Development of Neo-pop Art Character T-shirts for Cause Related Marketing - Focused on Romero Britto -
Ku, Bonhye ; Kim, Mihyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 75~85
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.075
The purpose of this study is to examine ways to vitalize cause related marketing (CRM) by proposing character T-shirts The campaign will employ Neo-Pop art, a genre popular with both companies and consumers. Study results are as follows: First, campaign T-shirts on the issue of human alienation resulting from digitalization can be utilized to generate financial profit that can be returned to society. This can lead to the acts of exchange for profit generation, public image improvemen of companies, and enhancement of their external status. As for the non-financial aspect, the campaign could lead to increased awareness of social issues and present opportunities to take actions of improvement. Second, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with environmental issue of sustainability involves brand distribution network support and revitalization of promotion such as shopping basket of love and eco-friendly store matching program for eco-friendly campaign. As for the non-financial aspect, it can help raise consumers' awareness of cause related activities such as crowd funding and fundraising and prepare opportunities of direct participation. Third, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with natural disaster relief activities on the global level involves brand recognition level increase and enhancement of positive association of companies through emergency relief and articles support as a result of drastic increases in casualties from nature disasters. As for the non-financial aspect, it can induce people's participation in relief activities and lead to the establishment of crisis response procedures. The information on the development of pop-art character T-shirts proposed in this study is expected to be used as basic information on cause marketing of fashion companies in the future, while providing inspiration to related fashion design.
The Relationship between the State of the Economy and High Heel Height - Based on Pump Style Shoes on Fashion Editorial Section of US Vogue -
Ahn, Insook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 86~100
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.086
This study is to investigate the relationships between heel height and macro-economic factors - recession and unemployment; and to analyze the time lags reflecting economic factors on heel height index using U.S. data. The life-history evolution theory was applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the heel height measurements of women's shoes - pump style only - were obtained from US Vogue fashion editorial sections on spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. I divided the heel height by the length of the shoes in order to standardize the data. Total of 1581 samples were used, and heel height data were aggregated to create a yearly average. To explore the relationships between macro-economic factors and heel height, this study used OLS of Stata 13 program. The main findings show that unemployment rates influenced heel height for three years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of unemployment rate from two years ago on the current heel height were very close to being on a significant level.
Market Segmentation Based on Online Fashion Communities' Behavioral Types
An, Jung-Hee ; Lee, Soo Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 101~117
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.101
Along with the development of overall internet service, online fashion communities appeared and have started to thrive. The growth of mobile service has led to an even bigger expansion of these communities, and will wield a strong influence for the foreseeable future. The purpose of our study is to investigate the relationship between the behavior of these fashion communities and personality characteristics of the community features. For our data analysis, our study used 302 men and women, aged from their 20's and their 40's. The study results are as follows: First, some features, such as interaction, entertainment, promotion, information, and system technique, were drawn as the factors of the online fashion communities. Second, we could divide the community behavioral types into three different groups: buyer, maven, and onlooker groups. Third, all three groups showed different community characteristics. The primary concern for the buyer group was promotion while the mavens and the on-lookers were most interested in information. Fourth, they also showed different demographic characteristics in terms of gender, age, duration of membership, on-line time per visit and number of visits per week. These results show that a new strategy is necessary for online fashion communities to differentiate themselves and their marketing to consumers and their community behavioral types.
Study on the relationship of Interpersonal Relations Disposition, Appearance Concern, Appearance Management Behavior of Men
Lee, Hyun-Ok ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 118~128
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.118
The purpose of this study was to identify the relationship of interpersonal relations disposition, appearance concern, appearance management behavior of men through a structural study method. Three hypotheses were established to verify the relationships among interpersonal relations disposition, appearance concern and appearance management behavior. The questionnaires were administered in the city of Daegu to 201 males in their 20s to 50s. The SPSS 20.0 package was utilized for data analysis, which included frequency analysis, factor analysis, correlation analysis and Cronbach's
. Also, Amos 21.0 program was utilized for a confirmative factor analysis( CFA) and a structural equation modeling(SEM) analysis. The results of this study are as follows; First, interpersonal relations disposition showed a positive influence on appearance concern. Second, appearance concern had a positive influence on appearance management behavior. Third, the interpersonal relations disposition showed a positive influence on appearance management behavior. In conclusion, interpersonal relations disposition, appearance concern, appearance management behavior of men are found to have a correlation.
Korean Costume shown on 'The Journey of Duty in 1954~55'
Cho, Woo Hyun ; Kim, Mijin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 7, 2015, Pages 129~144
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.7.129
This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.