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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 66, Issue 5 - Aug 2016
Volume 66, Issue 4 - Jun 2016
Volume 66, Issue 3 - Apr 2016
Volume 66, Issue 2 - Feb 2016
Volume 66, Issue 1 - Jan 2016
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Official Uniform of Najang from the Late - Joseon Dynasty, with Focus on the Relic Collections in Leipzig Grassi Museum, Germany -
Park, Yoon-Mee ; Lim, So-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 1~12
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.001
Najang was the central Seori, affiliated to the Ministry of War during the Joseon dynasty. The objective of this study is to research the existing authentic Najang costumes from the late-Joseon dynasty by examining factors, such as the composition of the costume, size, and method of creation, and attempt to replicate it. The Leipzig Grassi Museum in Germany possesses an official uniform of Najang from the late-Joseon dynasty, and we visited the museum in May of 2013 to examine it for the study. Written records, or Uigwe, and other pictorial data from the Joseon Dynastry describe the Najang wearing black or navy clothing with white decoration and pointy hats. The most notable characteristic of the Najang uniform is that it has the cotton cords pattern. The hat has a brass ball attached, which was worn with the ball facing the front in the early Joseon Dynasty, and was worn facing the back in the later years. They usually wore black head cloths (Heuk-geon), but would attach feathers on the black hats (Heuk-rip) for special occasions. The Najang uniform preserved in the Leipsiz Grassi Muesim does not exist in Korea. It is made of cotton. The cotton cord pattern of the uniform of Najang was made using single-ply cords and double-ply cords. The hat worn by Najang is in a form of a cone that becomes narrower towards the top or is in a form with wide and open end. It was made of oiled paper covered with hemp, and two circular metal disks were attatched at the rear.
Differences in Preference Depending on Signal Explicitness when Selecting Fashion Luxury Brand - The Moderating Effects of Self-Construal and Implicit Theory -
Suh, Min-Jeong ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ; Yeo, Jun-Sang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 13~27
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.013
There are differences in preference according to the brand signal explicitness when selecting fashion luxury brand, and the purpose of this study is to verify the moderating effects of self-construal and implicit theory in relation to those preferences. This study divided the experiment design into two
mixed design studies: Study 1 and Study 2. The study 1 was composed of the following factors: brand signal explicitness(subtle vs. explicit signal) and self-construal(independent vs. interdependent self-construal). Study 2 was composed of the following factors: brand signal explicitness( subtle vs. explicit signal) and Implicit theory(entity vs. incremental theorist). Convenience sampling was conducted to find the subjects of study 1 and study 2. Study 1 analyzed data from 172 women in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and Busan who prefer luxury brand, and study 2 used data from 138 women. The results of this study are as follows. 1) Independent self-construal primed group was shown to prefer subtle signal product to explicit signal product, whereas interdependent self-construal priming group preferred explicit signal product to subtle signal product. 2) The entity theorist to prefer explicit signal product to subtle signal product. On the other hand, the incremental theorist did not show significant difference in the preference between subtle and explicit signal products. Therefore, the results of the present study shown the importance of understanding consumers through the difference depending on consumer inclination and psychology, recommending preferred luxury brand according to the inclination of the target customers, and establishing segmented marketing strategy to captivate consumers with these various characteristics.
A Study on the Legal Protection of Fashion Designs and its Possibility under the Korean Design Protection Act - Based on the Review of Cases Related to the Requirements for a Design Definition and Acquisition of Design Rights and the Judgment of Design Identity & Similarity -
Cho, KyeongSook ; Jung, Seok Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 28~41
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.028
This paper is aimed at intensively examining the scope of legal protection for fashion designs under the Design Protection Act of Korea. For this purpose, this looked into how the Act defines the concept of design, its requirements, and the prerequisites for acquiring design rights. The study also reviewed statutory interpretations over the judgment of the identity and similarity of designs. For more practical and substantial discussions, this research utilized cases and precedents, which had relevant legal principles. This study also figured out how both the requirements for a design definition - such as merchantability, configuration, visibility, and aesthetics - and the prerequisites for acquiring design rights - like industrial applicability, novelty, and creativity - are interpreted and utilized in actual circumstances. The authors expressed their opinions regarding the criteria of judging the identity and similarity of designs, based on a study of previous cases. Previous rulings show that aesthetics of the exterior design is used as the criteria for determining whether a design is same or similar. So, two designs, which have different specific details, are deemed same or similar, if both designs show similarity in the dominant elements. This is because both designs will produce similar aesthetic qualities. However, if the dominant elements of a design are part of the public domain, and the specific details characterize the design, the latter has to be evaluated in the process. This paper examined scope of legal protection for fashion designs using relevant precedents. The study may serve as academic materials that lead to the establishment of rightful ownership in creative activities.
A Study on Religious Symbolism of the Costume Pattern of Tibet
Choi, Mijeong ; Soh, Hwangoak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 42~57
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.042
The Tibetan people are an ethnic group that is native to Tibet who have adapted to the region's harsh climate and environment, and developed their own culture. Religion played a central role in maintaining its traditional culture and society in the history. The objective of this study is to understand Tibetan costume and religion, and examine patterns that appear on the costume to study their religious symbolism. The significance of this study lies in explaining the symbolisms of the patterns that appear on the costume in terms of cultural maintenance and change. Based on literature review, I summarized the data about Tibet's environment, history and religion, and divided the residential district into three:
-Tsang, Amdo, Khamba. Then, I organized each region's characteristics and clothes, and studied Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana) costumes and features of the patterns that appear on the costumes. Through combining these data, I would like to examine the religious symbolism of the costume pattern of Tibet. Buddhism is at the heart of cultural and social maintenance and change in Tibet, and the patterns shown in the costume is influenced mostly from Buddhism. The features of general Tibetan costume vary with the region and life style, but the patterns that appear on the costume are used over a wide area to represent good luck and the spread of Buddhist teachings. The costumes for religious rites vary with religious sects, but most of the patterns are commonly used. The symbolism of pattern is a form of figure that represents the human psyche and physical world. The symbolism of pattern implies meanings such as compensation or futuristic wish. First, the lucky omen normally means long life, happiness and peace, and means religious salvation in Buddhist perspective. Second, warding off evil spirits normally means avoiding misfortune, and means dignity and self-protection, and protection of Buddhadharma in Buddhist perspective.
Research Trends of Fashion Field among Chinese Students in Korea - Focused on Graduate Degree Thesis -
Wei, Fei ; Park, Eun Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 58~72
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.058
Since the mid 2000s, a large number of Chinese students have come to Korea to study. This study investigates the research trends of Chinese students studying in the fashion field in Korea. For this study, a total of 235 graduate degree theses on fashion written by Chinese students in Korea (from 1992 to 2014) were collected through the RISS website. Various keywords were used to find the theses, including fashion, clothing and costume. Factors used in the analysis of these theses were the number of theses per year, major of the student, research trend of specific areas and research target area. The results are as follows: Most of the theses were written by Fashion/Clothing majors (141 theses/60% of the total), while other majors - such as Business Administration, International Trade, Economics, Journalism/Broadcasting, and Movie Entertainment - made up the rest (94/40%). The theses researched in the study were focused on a specific field in fashion. Fashion Marketing/Socio-Psychology of Clothing was the most popular field (113/48.1%), and Fashion Design/Aesthetics came in second (87/37.0%). Other topics, such as Costume History, Clothing Construction/Textile Science, Costume Culture, followed. Chinese student's research target area was very limited, with Chinese Study being the most popular area, and Korean and Chinese Comparative Study coming in second.
Participatory Fashion Design Education Program based on RP-ISD Model
Lee, Jee Hyun ; Ahn, Ji Won ; Kim, Ji Eun ; Kho, Jeong Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 73~89
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.073
This study aimed to develop an education program for fashion design that can deliver knowledge and techniques to enhance the capability of participatory fashion designers. The framework for education program was established based on the RP (Rapid Prototype) model, and the developing process of education program was structured and systemized. As a result, this study proposed the circulated RP-ISD model, which is designed to revise and complement the educational objectives, strategy and evaluation tool by iterative prototype, and purposed to be consistent in carrying out the instructional systems design. Furthermore, the systematic developing process and the assessment criteria of design education program for ten weeks was proposed. This result could be used as a base study of participatory fashion design and contribute to systemization of education programs in design field. Furthermore, it could foster the possibility of an alternative education model in fashion design.
Fashion Brand Attitude of Tweenagers - Focused on Brand Awareness, Image, Identification and Loyalty -
Han, Ki-Hyang ; Won, Myung-Sim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 90~107
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.090
The purpose of this study was to examine the fashion brand attitude of tweenagers, with a focus on brand awareness, image, identification and loyalty. The study analysed 541 fifth and sixth-grade students in Seoul elementary schools. Major statistical methods used for this study were Cronbach's alpha analysis, confirmatory factor analysis, and path analysis with SPSS 19.0 and AMOS 19.0. Brands selected for this study were "NIKE" and "BEANPOLE KIDS". The result of this study was as follows: First, the study showed that both "NIKE" and "BEANPOLE KIDS" had 4 significant routes from the research model. Brand awareness had influence on brand image; brand image had influence on brand identification and brand loyalty; and brand identification had influence on brand loyalty. Second, using the bootstrapping to verify the significance of the total effect and indirect effect, brand awareness had a significant indirect effect on brand identification and brand loyalty; brand awareness did not have any direct effect on brand identification and brand loyalty for both "NIKE" and "BEANPOLE KIDS". Also, the total effect of brand awareness on brand identification and brand loyalty was significant. The result of this study showed the development potential to the fashion companies targeting tweenagers.
Research for the Transformable Knit Design Applied by North European Traditional Knit Patterns
Lee, Yejin ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 108~121
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.108
The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.
A Study on Costume in Mural Painting of Xu Xianxiu Tomb in Northern Qi period
An, Bo Yeon ; Hong, Na Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 122~134
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.122
The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the
century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.
A Study on the Classification and Development of Pattern Designs Represented in Luggage
Lee, Misuk ; Chung, Kyunghee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 1, 2016, Pages 135~154
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.1.135
The purpose of this study is to research the characteristics and types applied to Korean and foreign luggage brands, and then develop pattern designs for the luggage by applying Korean cultural contents that meet the various fashion needs of travel goods. To select the Korean and foreign luggage brands, a web search was utilized by inputting the keyword, 'luggage brand'. The results, which were extracted from 200 web documents, produced 27 Korean brands and 29 foreign brands that met the requirements. For the data analysis, images and contents were collected through luggage brand websites, and then 927 pattern designs were extracted. The results were as follows. First, characters, figures, animals, and plants were commonly used for the pattern design motifs applied to Korean and foreign luggage. A notable trend was that these motifs were expressed in a stylistic way with a graphic touch. Also, a singular point was formed from the luggage overall, and regularly repeated patterns were very common as well. Secondly, pattern designs for luggage were developed through the application of 'Hangul', 'Hanbok', and 'Hanok'. Nine kinds of patterns were designed via the phases of change into a vector image and color adjustments, and were simulated in luggage design. Adobe Photoshop CS 7.0, and Adobe Illustrator CS 5.0 programs were used for the pattern designs and simulations. This study is meaningful in that it suggested pattern designs for different kinds of luggage in the motifs of Korean cultural contents. It can be used as a useful reference, as we are in a time period where travel goods have become individualized, advanced, and fashionable, as well as laying stress on original design based on cultural interpretation.