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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 66, Issue 5 - Aug 2016
Volume 66, Issue 4 - Jun 2016
Volume 66, Issue 3 - Apr 2016
Volume 66, Issue 2 - Feb 2016
Volume 66, Issue 1 - Jan 2016
Selecting the target year
Recent Changes in Women's Jeogori Pattern - Focused on the Jeogori's in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market -
Han, Jeong Won ; Cho, Woo Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 1~17
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.001
This study examined and analyzed the women's jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market. They study explored the items to look into the current state of the Jeogori patterns, as well as investigate the flat pattern jeogoris, including its source and aspects of change. Korean women's body figure has become more westernized, and the purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of this change on the traditional jeogoris. We hope to gather valuable data, which can be used to propose a new direction for designing hanbok in the future. The study methods are as follows: First, the types of jeogori patterns were examined. Second, the current state of jeogori patterns in the Seoul Gwangjang market and Jin market in Busan were analyzed to look into how the patterns have transitioned. And lastly, the reason for the origination of the flat pattern jeogori and the type of changes will be examined. Current study results show that two pattern types are being used: the flat composition jeogori and the flat pattern jeogori. Surveys show that more than 90 percent of the jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market are of the flat composition pattern variety, while more than 90 percent of jeogoris in the Busan Jin Market are of the flat pattern variety. In 1998, western-style dress designers in Busan introduced the flat pattern jeogoris, which were used to get rid of the wrinkles caused by the extra space, into the market after the financial crisis period in Korea, as a way to revitalize the market. This new pattern was popular among tea aficionados and traditional Korean musicians. It was exposed to the public via different mediums, such as TV programs, magazines, and brochures. Busan was the first to be exposed, and then it spread to Seoul. It also seems that the reduction of production cost caused the increase of the flat pattern jeogori.
A Study on the Reception and Spread of Tattoo Fashion
Kim, Youngmi ; Geum, Keysook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 18~31
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.018
In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.
Study of Regulations on Police Uniforms of the Government-General of Joseon
Nomura, Michiyo ; Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 32~50
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.032
The purpose of this study is to reveal the process of enactment and revision, the contents of the police uniform system by the Government-General of Joseon, and to examine the relationship between the uniform system and the ruling policies of Imperialist Japan. The research methodology involved document research of official gazettes that published legislation on the police uniform system. Political background was referenced from various preceding studies. The research results are as follows. The Japanese invasion of Korea, in regards to the police, appeared as infiltrations through the three routes of consular police, temporary military police, and inside the Korean police. Each organization had different uniform systems, and after the installation of the Japanese police in 1907, the uniform system of high level officers of the Korea police was changed to the Japanese-style. After the installation of the Government-General of Joseon in 1910, a police uniform system was not enacted until 1918, with the exception being made for police officers due to the military police system. The 'Police Officer Uniform System of the Government-General of Joseon' enacted in 1918 stood out for its golden insignia on solidly colored fabric, which effectively indicated rank, as well as the Japanese flag pattern and the cherry blossom pattern, which symbolized imperialist Japan, on the cap badge and insignia. The 1918 uniform system had many differences from the Japanese system of the time in terms of design, perhaps due to the political autonomy of the governor-general. The 1918 uniform system was completely revised in 1932. This uniform system was modified in various ways. The system was almost identical to the Japanese system at that time. This is the result of Japan's intent to dominate Korea, which involved assimilating Korea into Japan with the purpose of conducting a full-fledged invasion of the continent after the Manchurian Incident.
An Observation on Dries Van Noten's Collections (2) - Focus on Men's Collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W -
Park, Shinmi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 51~74
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.051
The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.
A Cross-Cultural Study of Plus-Size Consumer's Perception of Body, Attitude of Accepting Obesity and Clothing Behaviors in Korea and the US
Choi, Mi Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 75~92
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.075
The purpose of this study was to prove how sociocultural perspective of obesity, differences in consumers' perception of body and attitudes of accepting obesity affected individuals' clothing behaviors through cross-cultural studies. The data collected were composed of 612 Korean and US consumers in the 20's and 30's that had experiences in purchasing plus-size products. The results were as follows. First, BMI index was lower in Korean consumers than the US consumers, but Korean consumers received more stress from being overweight compared to the US consumers, and had a more negative attitude about their body. Second, although Korean consumers had lower BMI index and degrees of obesity than US consumers, they were severely stressed by obesity and were found to have a higher level of dissatisfaction with their bodies. Third, Korean consumers responded more sensitively to obesity and had a tendency to display a more negative attitude regarding obesity, and a more passive dependence on clothing. Forth, differences in the body shape were reflected even in wearing evaluation, and US consumers showed a more positive attitude toward evaluations of size suitability and fitness. Fifth, the plus-size market for Korean consumers was still not active, and most products purchased were generic brands obtained from online shopping malls through the Internet. However, in the case of the US, in which the ratio of obese people is high and the plus-size market is growing, consumers were purchasing plus-size brands through various distribution online and offline channels. Sixth, Korean consumers were less satisfied than US consumers with shops, sizes and fitness; however, they were more satisfied with design factors. Finally, it is expected that this study can offer practical implications for marketers and product developers running plus-size market for young obese consumers in their 20 and 30s.
A Study on Joseon's Luxurious Trends of Costumes and Import of Patterned Textiles in the 17th century
Lee, Soo-Hyun ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 93~106
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.093
The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the
century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However,
century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.
A Study on the Traditional Korean Special Costumes in Accordance with Climatic Factors of the Korean Peninsula - Focusing on Costumes of the Commoners in the Joseon Dynasty Period -
Hong, Bo Ra ; Kan, Ho Sup ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 107~120
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.107
This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.
The Impact of Benefit Sought on Store Attributes and Brand Loyalty of Children's Clothing Line in Global SPA Brands
Kim, Go-Eun ; Lee, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 121~134
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.121
The purpose of this study is to explore the effectiveness of marketing strategies of children's clothing line for global SPA brands among Korean consumers. The following factors were evaluated as the dependent variables: benefits sought, store attributes, and brand loyalty. We employed a survey method to test our research questions. The subjects of our survey were mothers with preschool kids between 2 and 7 years who had purchase experiences of children's clothing lines of global SPA brands. The major findings are as follows: First, among the three factors of benefits sought ('trend'/'brand value'/'practicality'), the 'trend' factor only positively impacted the 'product' factor, which is part of the store attributes. 'Practicality' and 'trend' factors had a positive effect on the 'service' factor of store attributes. However, all three factors of benefits sought had no impact on the 'store' factor, and 'practicality' and 'trend' factors had positive effects on the price factor of store attributes. Second, 'practicality' and 'trend' factors among the three factors of benefits sought, had positive effects on brand loyalty. Third, the 'product', 'price', 'store', and 'service' factors had a significant positive effect on brand loyalty in decreasing order. Suggestions from our results for national SPA brands are as follows: National SPA children's clothing lines should focus more on unique designs and unique marketing strategies better reflecting Korean consumers' interest and needs in competing with their global counterparts.
A Study on Replica Jodae(絛帶:Braided belt) through Cheungchosack(靑皁色:Bluish black) - Focused on the Excavated Jodae from Kim Won-taek's Family in Cheongju -
Park, Bong Soon ; Chang, In Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 135~146
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.135
This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.
Effects of Work Attitude of Fashion Models on Job Satisfaction and Turnover Intention
Lee, Jung-A ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 147~161
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.147
This study analyzed the effects of job style on job satisfaction and turnover intention of fashion models, and the difference in the job style, job satisfaction and turnover intention by model activities period. Data was collected by surveying fashion models with more than 10 modeling experiences, and 230 responses were used in the data analysis. The results of were as follows: First, the job style of fashion models were classified into professional ability type, social relationship-focused type, future-oriented type and body-boasting type. Job satisfaction was classified into satisfaction with working conditions, satisfaction with model activities, and satisfaction with relationships. Turnover intention was classified into intention to change jobs, and intention to quit modeling. Second, being a professional ability type had a negative effect on satisfaction with working conditions, whereas being a future-oriented type had a positive effect on it. The professional ability type and social relationship-focused type had a positive effect on satisfaction with model activities, and the social relationship-focused type had a positive effect on satisfaction with relationships. Third, the future-oriented type and body-boasting type had a negative effect on the intention to change jobs. The social relationship-focused type, future-oriented type and body-boasting type had a negative effect on the intention to quit modeling. Fourth, there were significant differences in the professional ability type, human relationship-focused type, body-boasting type, intention to change jobs and intention to quit modeling by model activities period. Therefore, it is necessary for domestic fashion models to have the appropriate attitude to develop features and competency required for modeling projects and if improvements are made to enhance job satisfaction of fashion models, the fashion modeling industry is expected to make further developments.
A Study on Procedure and Costume for a Royal Wedding Ceremony of Princes and Princesses in the 17th Century
Kim, Jiyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 66, issue 3, 2016, Pages 162~179
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.162
This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.