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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 10, Issue 6 - Dec 2002
Volume 10, Issue 5 - Oct 2002
Volume 10, Issue 4 - Aug 2002
Volume 10, Issue 3 - Jun 2002
Volume 10, Issue 2 - Apr 2002
Volume 10, Issue 1 - Feb 2002
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Portrait of Nongae
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 319~335
Nongae was the official Kinye(관기) who had exhisted, her portrait was enshrined at an ancestral tablet hall beside Choksukloo. This portrait of Nongae was a work of a painter, Un Ho-Kim. In any case, a study on the costume of the portrait of one person must be taken the costume of the period. This study investigates the character of clothing style in King Sunjo 26(1593) and in her present portrait. And so, her portrait who was enshrined at the place didn't agree with it's clothing in King Sunjo 26(1593) The results of this study are as follows : The portrait of Nongae took the costume style of the beginning of about 1910. and so this style was different from the style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593). The style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593) : Jacket : It's jacket was long(near hip) and broad, it's sleeve length was long, it's form was a straight line. Skirt : It's skirt was very long. It's silhouette was formed a soft line The costume of the figure in this picture in wrong from historical point of view. And so, the costume of Nongae in the portrait must adjust it in the clothing style of about 1593.
Consumption Vision in Apparel Buying Decision Making
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 336~349
The purpose of this paper is to examine the characteristics of consumption vision related to the apparel buying decision-making. They propose that consumers form mental images of future consumption situations and that these consumption visions influence their decision-making. Consumers can imagine themselves consuming apparel products and experiencing the consequences of this consumption. By imagining the likely outcomes, they are able to identify the salient characteristics of each alternative and develop beliefs about their outcomes. Also, they can experience affective reactions to the outcomes they imagines. In this way, they form the cognitive and affective basis for their preferences and construct several consumption visions in the apparel buying decision-making. A consumption vision is "a visual image of certain product-related behaviors and their consequences....(they consisted of concrete and vivid mental images that enable consumers to vicariously experience the self-relevant consequences of product use"(Walker & Olson, 1994). We conducted unstructured, depth interviews with 9 groups participating 48 students at universities located in Busan, based on the results of previous studies. The results show that consumption visions related to the apparel buying decision-making are characterized as self-image, reactions of others, affection and mood, visual imagine, and self-satisfaction. By constructing consumption visions based on the various perspectives, consumers are influenced in the apparel buying decision-making. Many subjects reported experiencing positive affect when imagining positive outcomes of product use. Other subjects mentioned using consumption visions for purely hedonic reasons. With no intention of purchasing apparel products, consumers may evoke consumption visions to escape from the daily life, to fantasize and daydream about pleasurable consumption situations, and to enhance the mood. That is, the consumption vision related to the apparel buying decision-making helps consumers anticipate an uncertain future and make the purchase of apparel products.
Service Quality and Consumer Satisfaction in Beauty Service ; Relating to the Outcome Quality and the Process Quality
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 350~363
The purposes of this study were 1) to examine the conceptual structure of outcome quality and process quality of beauty service, 2) to investigate the relationships among beauty service quality, consumer satisfaction, word-of-mouth reputation and perceived risk, and 3) to find out the effects of related variables on consumer satisfaction. The questionnaire was developed based on pretest and previous studies, and completed by 435 female consumers that experienced beauty service during about one month in Busan. First, factor analysis showed that the process quality of beauty services consisted of four factors, such as Employee Service, Physical Service, Time-saving Service, and Economic Service. And the outcome service quality consisted of two factors, such as Socio-psychological service, Functional service. Second, the higher word-of-mouth reputation and the lower perceived risk were the higher perceived beauty service quality and the more satisfied with service. Third, the process quality of beauty service, word-of-mouth reputation, socio-psychological service quality effected on consumer satisfaction. Especially, the employee service was very important on consumer satisfaction.
A Study on Knit Wear Buying Behavior according to Shopping Orientations
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 364~376
The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between shopping orientations and Knit wear Buying Behavior of college female students. A questionnaire was developed to measure knit wear purchasing motives, fashion information sources of knit wear, evaluation criteria of knit wear product, and general clothing buying behavior. The questionnaire was administered to 505 college female students in Chonbuk and Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The college female students were classified into fifth subdivisions by the cluster analysis; convenient shopping group, recreational shopping group, self-confident shopping group, those of Fashion-pursuit group, economic shopping group. 2. The knit wear purchasing motives of consumers were significantly different according to shopping orientation subdivision in social, personal, rational. 3. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in mass media information, information by marketer, mail order advertisements, information by consumer. 4. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product of consumers were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in esthetic, practicality, individual expression, external criterion. 5. In the case of dissatisfactory factors for wearing knit wear product, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision. 6. In the case of asking factors to the manufactures of knit wear product, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision.
A Study on the Korean Women′s Wear Grading by Different Age Groups I
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 377~391
The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.
A Study on Ease for the Skirt of Stretch Fabric according to the Fat Body Types
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 392~403
The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.
A Study on Symbolic of the Mask Dancing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 404~418
The pattern of a dance had changed and made a progress delicately according to the change of the myth, religion, and civilization. One genre which had experienced the change for the dance is a mask dance. This dance started from wishes to adore spirit or god with imitated masks of native animals and desire to identify with nature. After the middle ages, it finally became to approach to the artistic state. In that dance, there was used a role of the head of the family which was strongly adapted to the shape of the mask as performing casts After studying symbolic characteristics of the mask dancing, we could conclude these as fol1ows.: First, Masks symbolized the totemism that adores spirit or god. This kind of whole masks were consistently used. Second, Mask was worn for expressing a dancer's cast well. This function of performing cast was in the primitive ages. However at the age which was characterized as the age of the art, the expression of using a mask became various. Third, Mask was mostly related to the head of the family and appeared with the desire to be others not themselves. Since the middle ages, this tendency continued to the modern dance. Now we can see this type at the carnival. The mask was not only an effective means of dance but also an expression of totemism, performing cast, and the head of the family. Therefore it contributed to the growth of the dance a lot.
A Study on the Social Position and Status of the Dress Symbolism Described in the Traditional Korean Folktale
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 419~432
This research analyzes how our people use the social position and status symbolism of the dress in focus of the Chosun Dynasty Period by analysis data of traditional folktale. This research material was analyzed social position and status symbolism of the dress with basis on Korean Oral Literature grand volumes of 82 published by The Academy of Korean Studies and whole volumes of 7 of Korean Literature Traditional , Folktale written by Kimhyunrwong. The methods of study is that first, selected part of describing social position and status of dress from the traditional Korean folktale. Second, summmarized things classified such as clothes, shape of hair and belt. Third, analyzed social position and status of dress with basis on symbol theory to be pre-studied. As a result, 1 can get the next conclusion. First, in case of the dress symbolism of social position and status, we classify as class. occupation, surreal person. Second, the changes of the social position and status showed upward position or downward position, and occupation change. Third, symbolization of position disguise was classified disguise of social position, sex, occupation.
A Study of Color Difference on Fabrics Dyed with Yellow Natural Material - by Natural Gardenia and Japanese Pagoda Tree -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 433~440
Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.
A Study of the Western funeral Rituals and Costumes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 441~460
Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.
A Study on Feminism Expression Style of Modern Denim Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 4, 2002, Pages 461~472
The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.