Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 10, Issue 6 - Dec 2002
Volume 10, Issue 5 - Oct 2002
Volume 10, Issue 4 - Aug 2002
Volume 10, Issue 3 - Jun 2002
Volume 10, Issue 2 - Apr 2002
Volume 10, Issue 1 - Feb 2002
Selecting the target year
A Case Study of Fashion Marketing Research using Multiple Methods
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 601~616
Qualitative research is a method widely used in marketing research. However, the method has seldom been used in fashion marketing research in Korea. The purpose of this study was to prove that using both qualitative and quantitative research methods in main stage is much useful than using qualitative research method only in exploratory stage. Qualitative data were gathered by conducting Focus Group Interview(FGI) with 48 college students. Quantitative data were gathered by surveying college students, and 487 questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. The data were analyzed using content analysis, mean, standard deviation, and t-test. As a result, FGI, one of the tools used in qualitative research methods, was proved to be useful in revealing consumers´deep emotional needs as well as purchase motives. FGI also revealed information which quantitative research method tools such as survey could have missed. Therefore, it is best to use multiple methods-simultaneous use of quantitative and qualitative methods-to understand fast changing consumers´needs and purchase motives.
A study on the VMD(visual Merchandising) of Female Clothing store
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 617~632
The purposes of this study are 1) to classify the consumer group according to clothing purchase store(department store, road shop, discount store, Dongdaemoon & Namdaemoon markets) 2) to analyze the differences between VMD attributes which each consumer group value. The attributes on the VMD are categorized as 5 areas 1) interior 2) show window 3) product display & display change cycle 4) color · light · music · small instrument 5) promotion(POP & salesperson). The data were collected from 238 females students and were analyzed by frequency, percent and X²-test. The results of this study are as fellows . 1) On the attribute of Interior, there were significant differences in terms of flow in a store, rest area, the cleanness of floor, show case, and the merchandise itself. 2) On the attribute of show window, there were significant differences in terms of interst of show window. 3) On the attribute of product display & display change cycle, there were significant differences in terms of display method, and display change cycle. 4) On the attribute of color · light · music · small instrument, there were significant differences in terms of interest of color coordination, luminosity and effect of light, and necessity of music & small instrument. 5) On the attribute of promotion(POP & salesperson), there were significant differences in terms of aid of POP.
A Study of the Symbolic Meaning of a Bisexuality in Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 633~647
The purpose of this study is to observe the symbolic meaning and the values of the costume which express bisexuality through the definition from a culture point of view. The research method is to contemplate the documentary records such as world history, art history and clothing history, and to recognize the symbolic meaning of a bisexuality in modern fashion design. A definition the word´man and woman´restricted the human being for a long time. This restrict is enforced by the costume, but this traditional fixed idea is retarded by the liberal sense of the human being and the design expresses a sex ambiguity This study inspects the sex ambiguity and the meaning of that through a cultural background and a historical costume. The results are as follows: The first, the cultural background about bisexuality is classified into the etymological point, the mythologic point. the art and philosophical point, the political and economic background, the mass media, and the custome and the regulation. A bisexuality is a concept in existence from ancient times. we have an open-minded attitude about bisexuality in the present than the past. The second, the function of costume is sex classification before 20th century, but since 20th century the costume expresses sex ambiguity. The third, the symbols of the bisexuality are the interminacy, the unity and the dismantling. The costume which expresses bisexuality means coexistence of male sex and female sex. this is a kind of motion to embody a ideal body of the human being. This study makes a contribution to recognize the dignity of human body and to understand the phenomenon of modern society.
The Analysis on Movie Costumes Related to the Roles -Focused on the Main Heroines in the Movie, "Cone with the Wind"-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 648~665
This study is to analysis on movie costume including the personal characters, social influences and situational effects of the main heroines among the expressions of clothing through the movie, "Gone with the Wind" produced by the MGM Company in America in 1939 with the collapse of the social classes through the American Civil War as its setting. The range of this study is to look into the images of cinema costumes like the colors and silhouette related to the roles based on the movie. According to this study, first, we can see the changing process from crinoline to bustle styles by historical invastigations into clothing styles rather than the images of roles in the aspect of silhouette Scarlet of hanghty and challenging character is shawn in X-type silhouette mainly using capped sleeves and laces and Mellany of obedient and generous character, compared with Scarlet, is showing less detail effects, and is expressed in A-type silhouette of modesty and maturity. Second, there are remarkable differences of colors and details in which starlet who had the pioneer spirit used the vivid tones like red, green and black, and white laces and blades as an accent while Mellany who was considerate and soft used the dark tones like black and blue, and white and blue lace shawls And third, in images, Scarlet who was very positive in sociai activities is expressed as a elegance and romantic images in the sophisticated and modern styles but Mellany who was a good and steady housewife was shown as a elegance image in the mannish styles.
Adolescents Impulsive Purchase Behaviors as Determined by Clothing Shopping Orientation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 666~679
The purpose of the present study was to analyze clothing shopping orientation and impulsive purchase behavior for clothing by using adolescents. Data were collected through a self-administered questionnaire survey from 680 middle and high school students living in Gangrung area from July 2 to July 6, 2001; 582 were used for the data analysis. Data were analyzed by chi-square analysis, 1-test, ANOVA, descriptive statistics, cluster analysis and Duncan's multiple range test. The results showed significant differences in clothing shopping orientation and in the impulsive shopping factors for clothing among the groups determined by demographic characteristics and, in the impulsive shopping factors for clothing among groups determined by the shopping orientation. Female students and high school students showed higher tendencies of recent experiences of impulsive buying for clothing. More thin half of the subjects tended to spend less than 30,000 won and to buy two items each time when purchasing clothing impulsively. Most students used discount shops or specialized stores fur impulsive purchase.
The Components of Consumer-Based Fashion Brand Equity
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 680~696
The aim of this study was to identify the components of customer-based fashion brand equity which was built from customers´perception to equity. As a method, both literature review and empirical research were made. This study performed in three stages from May to November in 2001. In the exploratory step. focus-group interview was conducted 5 times for gathering responses related to fashion brand equity, and free association test of 17 respondents was additionally conducted. In pilot study, 40 university students were surveyed and the data were analyzed in order to identify the components of fashion brand equity and to develop questionnaire. In the main research, 905 university students evaluated fashion brand equity in order to analyze the components of fashion brand equity in customers´perception. Statistical analyses were performed with SAS program using factor analysis, cronbach´α, frequency, and mean. The results of this study was as fellows. First, fashion brand equity was defined in terms of four components; customer-brand resonance, brand imagery/customer feeling, brand performance/customer judgment and brand awareness. Second, fashion brand equity was multi-dimensional brand attitude, which could be measured by 29 variables that were different from uni-dimensional evaluation of previous studies.
The Study of Image Visual Effect by Mid-Aged Men's Suit Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 697~708
The purpose of this study deals with the profitable suit image design of middle-aged men by examining visual effects in physical design. The sample of this study is people who live in Kwangju, Korea and 20∼50age's men and women. And it is very variety in each population statistics factors the differences of physical design visual effect which considering the difference of sex and age, numbers of button, a figure and material pattern. The method of this study is experimentation. Accordingly, I used convenience sampling by considering sex and age distribution with the SPSS program for the data analysis. The difference of body design visual effect brought follow conclusion by demographics variability. The distinction of body design by sex and numbers of button, shoulders have similar differences only in men's group. The length has it both in man and woman's group. The dissimilarity of body design by age and the number of button, the shoulders have similar differences in 30 between 40 aged group and the abdomen has it in 30 aged group. The length has it in 20 between 40 and 50 aged group. In the three factors of body design by sex and shape either sex and pattern, both man and woman have similar differences by the pattern. Totally, number of button and pattern are very important clothes due to give an effect on whole visual effect man's suit. Also, these dues were felt differently by each types of body. Therefore, it is confirmed that the type of body is important that fluent to make people perceive.
A Study on the Use of 3D Human Body Surface Shape Scan Data for Apparel Pattern Making
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 709~717
In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.
A Research of Worker's Uniform in the Mechanical Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 718~734
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data f3r improvement in Working Uniform in both scientific and efficient ways. The study were enforced by questionnaire and personal interview. The subject of the survey were the workers of 264 in mechanic industry in Seoul. The results obtained from the researches by methods above are as follows. 1. In general, Working Uniform could be classified types of two. One is loose-fitting one-piece garment covering the body and legs, the other is two-piece garment. The latter is a jacket with either sports collar or soutein collar, fastened with either buttons or a zipper and its sleeve is finished by cuffs and tapes. Regarding to color. inkblue, dark navy, khaky, dark beige are favourable ones. 2. In regard to the necessity of uniform that workers suppose, most of them were aware of it and agreed wearing uniform could play an important part. The reason why are on the basis of safety-first and work efficiency and also to protect a body from harmful or toxic dirt specially in machinery workplace. 3. The purpose of wearing an uniform according to statistics of population make some difference in age, gender. categories of industry, and the scale of factory. 4. In regard to care of uniform, front hem, edge of sleeve in a jacket, and knee, hip part in pants were most vulnerable spots for dirt. The parts damaged easily are edge of sleeve in a jacket and a zipper in pants. On the average, laundry have been done by water and was once a week frequency.
The Wearing Effect of Sport Underwear -Focusing on the Change of Fat in Each Body-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 735~747
This study aimed at investigating the change of fat in each body part according to the wearing of sport underwear made of specially-processed materials. in this study. 6 females made up of three early twenties, and three later thirties took part in the exercises for 12 weeks to to out the change of fat amount in body, square of body part by CT and obesity after and before an exercise. The results are as follows: In the obesity condition after and before an exercise, Roller's index shows that in case of 51 and 54, one level was lowered concerning the basic physical strength and optimal index was not changed. In the silhouette between body frames. there are differences between ages. The body fat rate decreased 35.95% on the average. and the amount of the body fat of females in twenties was more than that in thirties. The amount of body fat decrease with the lapse of exercising time, while the amount of body fat shows increased of 0.75%, which showed the minus correlation. The rate of averaged flat by CT went up after an exercise in every body part. and also the decreased value of subcutaneous fat was not proportioned to that of weight and girth. Inbody parts, the lower abdomen was shown 49.7%, navel part 47.7% and waist part 37.3% each in numerical value. In the thickness of subcutaneous fat concerning waist, the value of front-center line was the lowest, and followed by rear-center line and lateral line. 1204degree part in the navel showed the most fat layed, and the lowest fat layed was in the lateral part. Concerning the lower part of abdomen, under-skin fat was the most layed in 120degree part like that of navel part.
An Analysis of the Fashion Trends Expressed on the Korean Men´s Golfwears
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 748~762
The purpose of this study was to analyze the fashion trends of Korean men's golfwears and furnished the researchers of same major with reliable data base. Lately, Korean men were concerned about their appearance rather than social position. Moreover, they tried to express the needs of youthfulness with free lift through clothings. These trend had been showed itself not only development of golfwears, but also change of esthetic tastes of men's golfwears. First of all, the development of men's golfwears was affected by the major three factors out of many various factors. That is, popularization of golf by the international activities of Korean progolfers, appearance of young consumers after IMF and the casualization of the men's formal dress, the making an everyday dress of men's sportswears. The results of analyzing of fashion trends of the men's golfwears is as follow: 1. The characteristics with naturalness, comfort of men's golfwears was manifested casualization trends by the factors of downward tendency of golfer's age, 5-days working, men's biz casual preference, individual ism after IMF. 2. Men's character golfwears was showed by the ageless as a youthfulness expression, the Sportism as an international trend, 2002 world cup, etc. 3. All of golfwears have to be functional characteristics because the golf is an active sports spending long time in golf course. Unconstruction style was an important fashion trends of men's golfwears by using functional materials to meet the needs of consumers. 4. The men's clothing was deviated from a fixed idea called masculine after IMF. Moreover, this trend was increased by the appearance of lovely man, genderlessness and had an effect on men's golfwears. Consequently. men's golfwears was showed feminization characteristics as a feminine, sensitive style. In the future, Korean men will try to express their character and thought freely through golfwears, men's golfwears will be continued ‘beyond the golf course’ image reflecting in the future fashion trends.
A Study on the Characteristics of Geometry in Madeleine Vionnet´s Works
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 763~780
The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.
Analysis of the Survey on the Consumer's Knowledge and Laundry Habits to Microorganisms Living in Clothing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 781~792
Microorganisms living in clothing cause damage to fabric as well as unhygienic conditions with unpleasant odor fur wearers. Removal or growth of microorganisms are affected by the conditions during washing and storage. The purpose of this research was to study the consumer's knowledge and habits in laundering with respect to microorganisms in clothing. For survey method, questionnaires were administered to 580 housewives, age of 20∼60s living in Seoul. Employing 479 respondents, the data were analyzed by using descriptive statistics. The results are as follows: The level of knowledge about microorganisms of clothing was high in general, but wasn't expert level. Many people had experienced damages of textiles, clothing and unpleasant odor due to microorganisms. Fabric softeners and bleaches were rarely used for disinfection but usually used for antistatic, whitening or removal of stains. There was no relationship between laundering habits, the knowledge of microorganism, and experience of clothing damage by microorganism.
Effect of Ambient Air Temperature on the Pattern of Clothing Ventilation through Openings
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 10, issue 6, 2002, Pages 793~801
The effects of ambient air temperature on the clothing ventilation were investigated numerically by a finite difference method. Numerical analysis using a 2-dimensional model comprising the air space between the skin and the clothing was conducted under the assumption that the clothing ventilation occurred only through the openings not through the fabric. The larger the temperature difference between the skin and the surroundings, the more apparent the thermal boundary layer As the ambient air temperature decreased, the air flow and the rate of the return of oxygen concentration to the atmosphere level in the clothing increased. Convection was dominant under low ambient air temperature, whereas conduction was dominant under high ambient air temperature. The ventilation rate was faster in the clothing microenvironment of the body part than that of the arm part.