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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2003
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2003
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Selecting the target year
Power and Aesthetic Images in Men's fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 177~192
The purpose of this study is to define masculinity as a shilling concept, stemming from the process of power groups controlling the conscious and unconscious of human beings to diffuse their ideologies, and to examine how masculinity has been reflected in aesthetic images in men's bodies and fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research and demonstrative studies through the analysis of pictures and photos were undertaken. Emerging in the wake of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, the absolute powers such as the bourgeois elite, males and the Wet emphasized the importance of reason, and made aesthetic images such as authority, robustness and modernization in men's fashion. In the conversion to the Information Society, poweres horizintally spread out over society. By using non-reason, diverse power groups have broken down traditional masculinity and express diverse aesthetic images in men's fashion such as eroticism, multi-culturalism and liberation.
A Study on Clothing Purchasing Motives and Evaluation Criteria of Product according to Women-Teachers' Shopping Orientation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 193~207
The purpose of this study was to investigate the demographics and general clothing buying behavior according to clothing shopping orientation of female workers. A questionnaire was developed to measure clothing shopping orientation, fashion information sources, stores selection criteria, clothing purchasing frequency of a year, purchasing expenditure of clothing, the demographics. The questionnaire was administered to 775 female teacher in Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis, x 1_test and ANOVA, Duncan test. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The female teachers were classified into four groups by the cluster analysis; indifferent shopping group, rational shopping group, conspicuous shopping group, recreational shopping group. 2. In the case of purchasing motives, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in four factors. 3. The evaluation criteria of product were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in practical attribute, socio-psychological attribute, and aesthetic attribute. 4. The significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in general clothing purchasing behavior(purchasing price range of clothing, clothing purchasing frequency of a year, method of payment, number of stores visited, experience of buying in the import brand)
An Analysis of Pattern-Related Works of Designer's Brand in Korea - for Draping -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 208~218
The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.
Structural Analysis of Consumption Emotions on Apparel Products
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 219~230
The purpose of this study was to analyze the structure of consumption emotions that consumers experienced in the process of consuming apparel products. Data was collected from 144 female college students living in Busan, and analyzed by salience, diversity, H-index, Clamor's V, and multi-dimensional scaling. The results showed as following; 1. The consumption emotions related to apparel products appeared three dimensions; ‘Relaxed-tense’ dimension, ‘Pleasant-unpleasant’ dimension, and ‘Outward-inward’ dimension. Considering elements of consumption system, the dimensions of consumption emotions in relation to apparel performances were 'Pleasant-unpleasant' and ‘Outward-inward’. The dimensions of consumption emotions experienced in usage situations were ‘Relaxed-tense’ and ‘pleasant-unpleasant’. The consumption emotions related to specific products were composed of ‘Pleasant-unpleasant’ dimension and ‘Outward-inward’ dimension. 2. As the multi-dimension map of this study has much space, it suggested that the scope of consumption emotions related to apparel products was more limited than those related to general situations and products. 3. The structure of consumption emotions in relation to apparel performances appeared to be bisected, while those related to usage situations showed relatively to be dispersed. 4. Although Pleasant-unpleasant dimension was consistent with results of prestudies, the dimensions of ‘Relaxed-tense’ and ‘Outward-inward’ were newly confirmed as the dimensions of consumption emotions related to apparel products. Therefore, consumer's consumption emotions of apparel products were composed of three dimensions, tended to be more limited than those of general consumption situations and products, and differentiated across apparel performances, usage situation, and specific products.
A Study on the Dualism of Hippie Style in the Modern Retro-Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 231~242
This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.
A Study on the Restoration of Frenchhood
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 243~252
The study was designed to review the changes in designs and the manufacturing methods of french hood, one of the headdresses which play an important role in showing the appearance of costume, to understand design expression techniques through manufacturing of the head dress of the western costumes, and to provide materials to exert creativity for new designs. Based on literature review and portrait study, 1 manufactured a frenchhood. I set the study cope as from the late 15 century when frenchhood was used for the first time, to the mid 16 century. For the frenchhood selected, 1 examined the hair style, the characteristics of the french hood, and the pattern first, and proceeded to manufacturing. 1 used velvet and silk for the textile as explained in the literature. And, 1 purchased such similar ornaments as shown in the pictures, making the color so similar to the original to the most. Dimensions in manufacturing were those In the literature, since the study is focusing on the reproduction of the features of the portraits. Dimensions of detailed decoration were measured using the ratio of the headdress in the portraits.
An Analysis of Wedding Outfits through Families's Wedding Photographs
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 253~262
The purposes of the study were (1) to analysis Korean traditional wedding costumes through families's wedding photographs from 1940 to 2000, and (2) to categorize bride and groom's costumes according to the wedding time by means of a time series analysis. (3) to find out functional relationship among changes in garment types, garment details, embellishments and colors. The study was a documentary research and data were collected from 390 family wedding photographs by a convenient sampling. The data were analyzed by qualitative and quantitative method and the statistic used were frequency, content analysis, and cross-tab analysis. The results were as follows; First, the garments of wedding couples were categorized into 5 period according to garment's characteristics. 1. The period between 1940～1959 : Korean traditional wedding costumes and western style wedding costumes were existed together in Korean wedding culture. 2. The period between 1960～early 1970's western wedding costumes were dominated. 3. The period of late 1970's : wedding couple's costumes became more formal and decorative. 4. The period of 1980's : introducing see-through materials for brides and tuxedo suit for grooms. 5. The period of 1990's : extravagance in shapes and exposure. Second, there were significant relationships among brides's dress types and neckline, glove length, embellishments and transparency of materials and among groom's garment types and necktie types, types and color of shirts, vests. Third, the time series analysis of bride and groom's outfit produced 5 schematic expressions of wedding outfits according to the period.
Characteristic of Men's and Women's Underclothes in the Medieval Ages
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 263~274
This study analyzes how social environment influenced underclothes and characteristic which underclothes have is associated with the outer garment and the underclothes in the Middle Ages. As a result, 1 can get the next conclusion First, throughout the Middle Ages, body was involved with the sense of same and sin influenced by the religious austerity. This mentality was applied to the underclothes. As underclothes are not generally revealed, it is recognized to be not important but inefficient. Second, in the late Middle Ages, as the outer garment reveal the body line, the underclothes are affected by it. So men's and women's distinction in the outer garment is applied to the underclothes. In the second quarter of the 14C, class distinction and sexual attraction certainly present on the outer garment but are not applied to the underclothes. The conceptions that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer garment, did not enter the medieval mind. Third, the function to protect the body is emphasized the underclothing in the Middle Ages, whereas it was important to identify rank sign in the history of underclothes. Throughout the Middle Ages the underclothing of both sexes is emphasized utilitarian in (unction rather than class distinction and sexual attraction. But women exposed their body line in thin chemise to represent sexual attraction in the late Middle Ages.
A Study on the Maximalism Depicted in the Contemporary Costumes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 275~292
The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.
A Study on Fusion Image in Fashion - Focused on Retro -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 293~319
Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.
A Survey on Clothing Buying Tendency and Clothing Use by Demographic Characteristics
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 2, 2003, Pages 320~330
The purpose of this study is to investigate a clothing use by clothing buying tendencies. Data were obtained from questionnaires filled out by 183 housewives in Daegu, and analyzed by utilizing Factor Analysis, frequency, correlation and ANOVA test. The results were as follows: 1. Four factors of clothing buying tendencies were identified as the pursuit of fashion, dressing for others, practicality, and dressing for self, 2. There was differences in clothing buying tendencies based on educational background and occupation. The factor of the pursuit of fashion was more important f3r college graduate housewives. It was also more important for housewives whose husband had professional jobs in comparison to their non professional counterparts. 3. The factors concerning the pursuit of fashion and dressing for others were more important fur those whose monthly household incomes ranged from 3,000,0000 to 4,000,000 won in comparison to those whose incomes were lower. 4. There was a negative correlation with the factor of dressing for others and the number of children. 5. The housewives had a higher clothing expenditure were more aware of the pursuit of fashion and dressing for others .6. The data concerning the number and types of various clothing owned showed single items were the most owned(more than 8 items) and altered Hanboks were the least owned(less than 1).