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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2003
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2003
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Selecting the target year
The Influence of Constituent of the Fashion Convention on Customer Satisfaction
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 331~339
This study first defines the fashion convention industry as an idea that includes international conventions, exhibitions and collections mainly dealing with fashion (fabric·material, clothing·fashion, and machinery·equipment). It then infers constituents of the industry based on preceding studies on service quality and satisfaction, and analyzes their importance and the structural relation between constituent performance, satisfaction and ex post behaviour. Also it analyzes perception difference of the organizer and participators on constituent importance, performance, and satisfaction. In the survey, a total of 500 questionnaires were distributed to the organizers and participants of 2001 Seoul Fashion Week, and among them, 259 questionnaires from the participants and 18 from the organizers were used as data for the demonstrative analysis. LISREL 8 program and SPSS WIN V. 8.0 were used for a statistical process of collected data.
The Effect of Clothing Type and Hair Style on Men’s Impression Formation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 340~351
The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of clothing type and hair style on men’s impression formation. The experimental design was 4×2×2×2 (clothing type×hair style×perceiver’s age×perceiver’s role) factorial design with between-subjects design. The stimuli of color photographs of male in his 20's model and semantic differential scale were used. The data were obtained from questionnaires completed by 881 men and women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The SPSS package was used for data analysis which includes factor analysis, t-test, and Cronbach’s a to measure the reliability. This study showed the following results. Four factors were derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were dignity, activity, individual character, and social intercourse. Men evaluated individual character factor higher than women did. Dignity factor was evaluated higher by students, while social intercourse factor was evaluated higher by office workers. The clothing type of shirts/pants was evaluated to be more active and more sociable than of jacket/pants. Men wanted to exhibit natty image and women did elegant image through clothes.
Effects of Addictive Apparel Buying Tendencies on Apparel Buying Behaviors
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 352~366
The purposes of this study were 1) to examine the conceptual structure information sources, antecedent states, and purchasing situation related to the apparel buying behavior, 2) to compare the differences between high addictive buying consumers and low addictive buying consumers in related variables, and 3) to find out the discriminating variable of apparel buying behaviors on the degree of addictive buying tendencies of apparel in department store. The questionnaire was developed based on the results of pretest and previous studies, and completed by 726 fcmale consumers living in Busan, Korea. 1) Factor analysis showed that information sources related to apparel buying behaviors consisted of the information of store and observation, and antecedent states did consumer's mood and availability of cash/cards. Also, purchasing situation in apparel store composed of four factors, such as Atmosphere, Price/quality, Store policy/salesperson, and Influence of others. 2) By t-test, there were significant differences between high addictive buying consumers and low addictive buying consumers in information sources, antecedent states, and purchasing situations. 3) The apparel buying behavior of high addictive buying consumers were influenced by the information of observation, and that of low addictive buying consumers were did by the atmosphere of apparel store.
A Study of Symbolism in the Composition of Korean Men's Trousers Interpreted with Figures
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 367~374
When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.
Considerable Differences of Body Surface Area in the Preparation of Bicycle Wear
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 375~386
The purpose of this study is to seek the change of body surface according to cycling motions and to give suggestions to the pattern and spare space between body and wear in each bodily parts to be heavily considered for making the bicycle wear. The cycling motions were analyzed by taking the sequential pictures of cycling covering motion by a digital camera. The experiments with gypsum were toward a woman in her twenties. We draw the line standard of the body's surface, separated their gypsum-replicated fragments of body's surface following the analyses of the change in their lengths. As the motions were made, we decided the degree of the changed length as spare space when compared the erected posture with the cycling posture, presenting the pattern of the cycling wear with the preparation of wears for testing. After that, the essential experiments were conducted toward three cycle players wore our experimental wears. Regards their evaluated appearance, evaluations over three points were obtained from all parameters except the width of front armhole. Accordingly, our experimental wears were remarkably understood as a relatively proper wear as bicycle wear.
A Study on the Generating Elements of Exoticism and Exoticism Expressed in Modern Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 387~403
This study aims to analyse a trend of exoticism which is often mentioned in the contemporary western fashion. I analyse the internal elements of the exoticism in the fashion. By applying these elements to the exoticism of modern fashion, I intended to make it a useful instrument fur interpreting modern fashion. The results of this study are as follows. The internal elements of exoticism are summarized as escapism, curiosity, fantasy, hybridism and pluralism. 1. From the 19th century to the 1960s . The exoticism shown in the western fashion are influenced by such elements as curiosity and escapism. And diverse and plural exotic elements added a fantastic element to the exoticism. 2. After 1960s : Escapism acted much more because people thought exoticism offer a refuge from overall social problems of modern consumer society. Late in the 20th century, fantastic and hybrid element became more prominent in exoticism. And I found pluralistic view point was the other element of exoticism.
Characteristics of Consumers and Their Perceptions of Natural-Dyed Clothes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 404~415
The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.
Reuse of Sodium Sulfate Recovered from Farm Drainage Salt of San Joaquin Valley in California, U.S.A. as Dyeing Builder of Levelling Dyes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 416~422
Agricultural drainage salt generated during irrigation of crops in San Joaquin Valley, California, exceeds 600,000 tons annually and cumulates in the field in a rapid rate. As a result, the waste is taking out more farmlands for salt storage and disposal, imposing serious concerns to environment and local agricultural industry. In searching for a potential solution to reduce or eliminate the waste, this research explored feasibility of producing a value-added product, sodium sulfate, from the waste and utilizing the product in textile dyeing. The results indicated that sodium sulfate could be produced from the salt and could be purified by a recrystalization method in a temperature range within the highest and lowest daily temperatures in summer in the valley. The recovered sodium sulfate samples, with purities ranging from 67% to 99.91, were compared with commercially available sodium sulfate in the dyeing of levelling dyes with nylon/wool fabrics. In nylon/wool fabrics, C.I. Acid Yellow 23 had similar exhaustions among Na₂SO₄ I, Na₂SO₄ II, Na₂SO₄ III and Na₂SO₄ Ⅴ which had similar ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride in recovered salts. Na₂SO₄ Ⅳ had low exhaustion which had low ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride. In nylon/wool fabrics, C.I. Acid Blue 158 had similar exhaustions among Na₂SO₄ I, Na₂SO₄ II, Na2₂SO₄ III, Na₂SO₄ IV and Na₂SO₄ Ⅴ despite of Na₂SO₄ Ⅳ had low ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride Generally, the dyeing of levelling dyes using recovered salts from farm drainage has similar or low exhaustion than the dyeing of levelling dyes using commercial sodium sulfate.
The Effect of Chitosan Treatment of Fabrics on the Natural Dyeing using Japanese Pagoda Tree (I)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 423~430
Cotton fabric md nylon fabric were chosen as base fabric specimens for dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree colorants through chitosan, treatment. With the chitosan treatment, the dye-uptake of the treated fabric increased. This treatment is also expected to be effective in terms of environment-friendliness. The effect of the dyeing methods, mordanting or non-mordanting, and chitosan treatment on the dye-uptake and air permeability of the treated fabrics was investigated. In case of cotton fabric, Al mordanted dyeing resulted in higher dye-uptake through the chitosan treatment. Therefore, the chitosan treatment is effective in this case. Japanese pagoda tree seems to have direct affinity for nylon fabric without the mordanting treatment. In case of cotton fabric, it seems that the cellulose molecules, colorants, and the chitosan make a complex, thereby reducing the air permeability. In case of nylon fabric, due to the fact the Japanese pagoda tree colorant molecules form direct physical bonding with the nylon molecules, it seems that there is not much of air permeability reduction.
The Effect of Chitosan Treatment of Fabrics on the Natural Dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan (I)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 431~440
The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.
A Study on Antibacterial Activity of Natural Material Treated Cotton Fabric
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 441~446
Water-insoluble chitosan with molecular weight of 2,000,000, 500,000, 80,000, and 40,000 and more than 90% of degree of deacetylation were used to test antibacterial activity of chitosan against a pathogenic bacteria, methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus(MRSA), which is being issued in the world. As experimental method, Agar plate Smear Method and Agar plate Contact Method were used. The moleculur weight of chitosan didn't exert significant influences on its antibacterial activity against MRSA but chitosan having molecular weight 40,000, 80,000 and 150,000 showed the excellent antibacterial activity. The antibacterial efHciency was excellent in applying it after chitosan was dissolved in acetic acid solution, while the antibacterial efficiency was not expressed nearly in case of applying after chitosan was dissolved in neutral water. Therefore, it is considered that chitosan can show the antibacterial efficiency only if a positive ion status of -NH₃/sup +/ is maintained. MIC of chitosan/acetic acid solution and cotton fabrics finished with chitosan/acetic acid solution showed in concentration of 0.05%.
Comparison of Effectiveness of Wearing Two Different Brassieres Made by Draping Method: Stretchable Versus Unstretchable(cotton) Textile
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 3, 2003, Pages 447~457
The shape of womens breast is the most important part of body silhouette. For the high-fitted clothes, in particular, more refined brassiere effective enough to show the beautiful line of female breast is asked. This study focuses on comparing the difference of the two different textiles of brassiere as to their effectiveness as a brassiere. The Stockman Lingerie Mannequin made by England is used for the draping method for the brassiere pattern. Two different brassieres of stretchable and unstretchable(cotton) textiles respectively were made out of this pattern, and the difference of effectiveness wearing the two brassieres was compared. 30 females ranging in the ages of 19 through 24, and whose size is 75A were selected as the test group who are to wear them. The result of each measurement proves that the cotton brassiere is more effective than the stretchable brassiere as a whole considering center concentration of breast, projection of breast, and bust up function. The result of the test on satisfaction of wearing brassiere was also in favor of cotton brassiere as to projection effect, bust up effect, making a good shape of bust. For the cup, in particular, unstretchable textile is more effective for making a breast look better.