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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2003
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2003
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Selecting the target year
The Effect of Hue and Tone, Skirt Width. Length Variation of Dress on Impression Formation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 459~473
The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of four clothing cues(hue, tone, skirt width, and skirt length of dress)on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The Stimuli are 40 color pictures manipulated with four clothing cues by drawing. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of female impression formation includes 29 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 240 undergraduate female students in Chinju city. The results of this study are as follow: As analyzing the impression of female figure by the hue, tone, skirt width, and length, five factors including ability. activity, elegance, attractiveness, concentration of attention, and tenderness were identified. Among these factors, ability·activity and elegance were proved to be more important. Some interaction effects of clothing cues were found. The combination of skirt width and tone had significant effects on ability. activity. Hue and tone of dress had significant effects on concentration of attention and tenderness. Skirt width and hue, and skirt length and hue had significant effects on the impression of attractiveness. Also skirt length and hue significant effects on concentration of attention.
A Study on the Shopping Orientation and the Importance of Store Attributes of Luxury Brand Consumer according to Patronage Store
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 474~486
The purpose of this study is to investigate on the shopping orientation and the importance of store attributes of luxury brand consumer. A questionnaire survey was administered to 350 female consumers over twenties who live in Seoul metropolitan area and Kyung-ki area. 324 data were analyzed by factor analysis, chi-square, ANOV A, correlation, and t-test. The results were as follows. 1) As a result of factor analysis, five dimensions were identified for shopping orientation: pursuit of ostentation and fashion, pursuit of pleasure, pursuit of economy, pursuit of personality, and pursuit of store convenience. 2) According to the factor analysis, the importance of store attributes were categorized in three factors: product and store service-conscious, price-conscious, and buying convenience-conscious. 3) Regarding the relation between shopping orientation and importance of store attributes, significant differences were found. 4) There were significant differences in according to demographic variables in terms of shopping orientation and importance of store attributes and store patronage.
Purchase Satisfaction of Apparel for Internet Fashion Shopping Mall Users - focused on 20's～30's Men and Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 487~499
The purpose of this study was to suggest marketing strategies to internet fashion shopping malls identifying factors that customers consider important. Data were collected by survey questionnaire and the subjects were 322 men and women in their twenties and thirties living in Seoul and Kyung-gi. SPSS 10.0 package were used and reliability, frequency, cross tabulation, chi-square, paired t-test, ANOV A and Duncan test were conducted for data analysis. The results were as follows. I) Subjects placed the most importance on providing the precise and detail information of products but its satisfaction level was low. 2) Subjects considered the ‘low price’ very importantly but its satisfaction level of it was not high. 3) Subject's importance and satisfaction level of ‘point system’ were about an average. 'Point system' has to be activated by using systems such as 'point network system' by pointbanking co. as one of price-cutting strategies. 4) Internet fashion shopping mall users treated 'the security system of personal data' importantly while they were not sufficiently satisfied with the system. 5) Female placed more importance on design and color of products and suppliance of the trendy items.
Purchase Practices & Satisfaction Degree of Apparel by Home Shopping: Focused on Housewives in Cheongju City
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 500~512
This study was performed to help on the activation plan the purchase of apparel by shopping(catalog/TV/Internet) through investigating and analyzing elements related with apparel purchasing practice, purchasing satisfaction degree, and information demand. The subjects were 165 housewives residing in Cheongju who had bought apparel through home shopping more than once. The questionnaire survey was conducted from July to August, 2002. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Housewives had most a lot of occasions that purchased clothing through TV shopping among home shopping method. 2) Major clothing items that purchased through home shopping were underwear and casual wear. 3) Satisfaction for apparel product purchased via home shopping was difference partially item wise. 4) Respondents were satisfied with design, color, sewing state, but dissatisfied with size and materials. 5) When purchasing apparel through home shopping, respondents recognized the necessity of information on size, exchange/refund/returned policy, color, design, resolution of the product picture, care of instruction, texture and detail of apparel.
A Study on Chintz Pattern Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 513~524
The purpose of this study was to trace the development of Chintz pattern design through fashion history, and to focus on its application in modern times with special emphasis on filtered Chintz patterns. Chintz patterns use such motives as tree, animal, bird, and geometrical shapes, etc.. It reached the peak of its popularity with William Morris. His influence continued from the end of the 19th century through to the 20th century. Modern Chintz designs have been modified and diversified in different cultures through time, and such diversification & changes can be easily found in modern fashion. From previous studies and other related sources, we found that Chintz patterns were revived in modern fashion trends with some modification. We also discovered the importance of chintz pattern designs in ethnic and retro trends. Thus in conclusion, this study revealed the significance, flexibility, and lasting popularity of Chintz pattern designs in fashion history.
A Comparative Study on Art of Paul Poiret and Gabrielle Chanel - focusing on Their Influence on Haute Couture -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 525~540
This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.
A Study on the Costume of Korean Envoys of the Chosun Dynasty in 1711 -Focused on the Three Envoys-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 541~550
This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.
The Factors of Luxury Trend and Fashion Changes as Result of Costume Regulations during Choson Dynasty: 17th and 18th Century
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 551~561
The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.
Immediate Constituent and Technics of Corsetry in the 20C
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 562~577
The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.
A Study on the Formative Characteristics Appeared in Modem Kitsch Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 578~590
The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative characteristics appeared in modem Kitsch fashion which has been shown through the empirical data photogrphes from the 2000's to 2003 and the formative characteristics of Kitsch were divided into the material, ornament, color, pattern to understand the modem Kitsch fashion. The findings of this study could be summarized as follows: First, the modem Kitsch fashion in the material was used cheap, counterfeit materials like vinyl, artificial leather, immitation fur, beads and non-artistic materials like metal, plastic, paper and voluptuous material like seethrough to express eroticism and superficiality as the characteristic of Kitsch. Second, Kitsch fashion in the ornament was shown over-decoration by using the various accessories like bracelet, metal belt, gloves, etc to express as childish and coarse mixtures as the characteristic of Kitsch. Third, the modem Kitsch fashion was using splendid and bright, primary colors to express the image of complicated accumulation. Fourth, the modern Kitsch fashion mainly in the pattern was using ethnic, folklore and pop art pattern or print used hippies and pop art fashion to express the primitive purity as bounding of civilized society.
Relationships among Department Store Patronage Influencing Variables for Apparel Shopping
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 4, 2003, Pages 591~605
The purpose of this study was to examine the comprehensive relationships among personal characteristics, shopping orientations, and attitude which impact department store patronage behavior of apparel shopping. The data were collected via questionnaires from convenient samples of 290 female college students. Statistical analysis of factor analysis and multiple regression analysis were performed in analysing the data. The shopping orientations seemed to be the most important variable in predicting both attitude toward and patronage behavior of department store for apparel shopping. In predicting shopping orientations, material value and income found to be the important variables.