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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2003
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2003
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Regional Textile Education System for Promoting Regional Specialization of Textile Industry -Comparison between Korean and Italian Textile Industries-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 619~646
The purpose of this study is to explore and compare the regional characteristics of textile industries and corresponding education systems in Korea and Italy. The Italian textile industry is well known for its continuous development of high quality textile fabrics and aesthetic fashion design. One of contributing factors for the success of Italian textile industry is its regional specialization of the industry and corresponding education systems. In particular, the regional education systems in Italy are designed to educate and supply labors necessary to the development of the regional textile industries. According to the study, this characteristic is well shown in their curriculum which emphasizes the practicality and corporation with the industry. In contrast, the Korean education system for the textile industry ignores the regional specialization and its curriculum is designed, in large part, to produce textile designers. This causes difficulties in meeting the various demands from the industry such as the textile planning, textile production, and textile marketing and sales. To solve the problems, we must encourage the industrial-educational corporation to promote the practicality of the textile education system and make diversification and specialization of the curriculum of textile education to cultivate men of talent, such as merchandisers, fashion coordinators, converters, stylists, and displayer, necessary to the development of the Korean textile industry.
A Study on the Use of MTM CAD Program for Mass Customization of Men′s Suit
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 647~656
Mass customization utilizes the new computer technologies, supply chain management, product information management, and some level of customization of the product for the individual customer. This study aimed at grasping the actual conditions of mass customization of domestic men's suit industry and the use of MTM CAD program. The MTM apparel production programs that are used by five leading men's suit manufacturers in Korea were compared. The results of the study showed that most of the manufacturers produced mass customized men's suits to supply extraordinarily large or small size suit based on the individual order. The information listed on an order sheet used at shops was not necessarily corresponding to the information in the MTM CAD program that is use for production of suit ordered from the shop. The pattern data base on the MTM CAD program are constructed based on the sizing system of individual manufacturer. The most manufacturers translated the customer's body dimensions into difference between the standard pattern and the customer's needed adjustment.
A Research on the Changes of Wedding Dress′ Colors
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 657~670
It is quite common today for bride to wear white-colored wedding-dress in wedding ceremony. When does the color date back to? What does the “white” mean? Which other colors had been used for wedding dress and why? This research paper aims to answer those historical questions through literature review. It is found here that the “white” began to be generally accepted for a wedding dress color in the 18th century, and that the color became an official one since the marriage of Queen Victoria's (i.e. 1840). Prior to that, other colors were taken rather than the “white”. In ancient Greece and Roma, “Red” and “Yellow” were used to remove devils or to bring fortune. In medieval society, luxurious wedding dresses were popular and various colors were adopted in order to show up family power among leading classes. The “White” has meant purity of bride since the 18th century. However, two world wars in the 20th century happened to lead some brides in economic difficulty wear “black” colored wedding dress for a practical reason. After the world wars, some light colors such as white, beige, ivory are to be used in wedding dress.
A Study on the Costume of Buddha′s Idols in Paekche Period
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 671~682
The purpose of this study is to analyze styles of costume and understand meanings related to costume embodied in the images of Buddha in Baekche period. Visual and textual analysis of the paintings include the images of Buddha in Baekche period was used for the research. The results of this study were summarized as fellows; Budah's hair style is identified as simple, Gae. Buddha wears Sanghati(outer wear) made of Tongeun and Peundanwoogeun, and many cases Sanghati made of Tongeun are usually seen. Three kinds of upper garment were identified; Samkaksika, right and left crossed upper garment, and Peunsam. Samkaksika was frequently seen in the paintings. Lower garment was a Nirasana reach to the ankle, was worn with a belt. Two skirts were also seen occasionally. The symbolic meaning of costume of Buddha was related to its religious meaning and identified as majesty and saintliest, which is harmonized with her simple costume styles. The wrapped style of costume, which did not show the contour of the buddha's body adds mystery. Also, the styles of costume created by different wrapping methods signify originality.
A Study on Collage as a Means of Generating Creativity in Fashion Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 683~696
In the post-modern society, creativity is redefined as a capability which collects a wide range of information and recombines them in diverse manners. With a such trend, the characteristics of collage - a method of making a creative image by combining pieces which have no relevance - is becoming prevalent in the post-modern culture. The purpose of this research is to develop a model which generates ideas in fashion design by use of collage techniques. With regard to research methodology, a literature survey was undertaken to find out and understand characteristics of collage. Analytic and positive studies were also done on the styles of fashion design of the 2003 SS collections to which collage techniques applied. In order to generate ideas in fashion design, the following mechanism using collage techniques can be used. Above all, pluralism is realized by collecting incoherent elements. Secondly, deconstruction is made by changing scales and configuration. Lastly, relativity is attained by using parts of ready-made goods and respecting their independency.
Korean Seasonal Costumes and Clothing Expressed in Novel,
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 697~710
The Purpose of this study was to prospect new costume culture of 21st Century and to understand the meaning of clothing and clothing behavior which represent on Korean Seasonal Costumes expressed in novel, Honpul. The results were as follows; There are special Costumes in a Year. They are New year, First full moon, Servants day, making seasonings, Doo Rae, Wha-cheon Nori(enjoying blossoms) Costumes during spring season, Dan-Oh Costume in summer and Ya-Kwang-Gui(keeping shoes at all night), Su-Ya(overnight), Yeam-Bal(burning dropped hairs) Costume in winter season. There were many relationship with clothing in new year, Wha-cheon Nori and Servants day Costumes, but they only had adorning meaning without special symbolic or incantational meaning. Clothing and clothing behaviors in Seasoning making day Costume, Dan-Ho costume and Ya-Kwang-Gui, Su-Ya, Yeam-Bal Costumes contained practical meaning with incantational meaning. There were Servants day costumes and Doo-Rae Costumes for lower classes, New year and Wha-cheon Nori costumes for the higher classes. But the First full moon day costume was for both classes. This study will make us to grasp the meaning of clothing culture with Korean Seasonal Costumes, and be useful to measure the changes of Korean costume cultures.
A Categorization of Erotic Expressions in Modern Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 711~720
The purposes of the study were to categorize eroticism expressed in modern fashion and to find out any significant difference in erotic expressions among designer brands and fashion seasons. The research methods was a documentary analysis. The documentary materials were 180 photographs randomly selected from fashion photographs of 3 major designer brand collections, from 1995 S/S to 2000 A/W. The data were analyzed by contents analysis, frequency, crosstabs. Results were as follows; 1) The existence of erotic expressions in modern fashion was found in 107 (59.4%) out of 180 fashion photographs and the eroticism was one of the major themes in the later 1990's fashion. 2) The erotic expression in the modern fashion were categorized into 5 categories exposure, adhesion, transparency, exposure+adhesion, and adhesion+transparency. The major erotic expression was exposure which was followed by adhesion and transparency. 3) The degree of erotic expression were separated into 3 levels-strong, medium, weak. The erotic levels in the modern fashion ranged between medium and weak; medium level 43%, weak 42% and strong 15%. 4) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to three designer brands. Chanel brand used less erotic expression than Christian Dior or Givenchy. Christian Dior brand showed the tendency of strongest erotic level while the Chanel brand showed the weakest level. 5) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to fashion seasons. Spring and summer seasons used more erotic expression than autumn and winter. In spring and summer seasons, exposure and transparency were methods used more frequently for erotic expressions, while adhesion was stronger themes in autumn and winter seasons.
Research on the Actual Condition of Snowboard Wear
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 721~736
As for the purposes of the research: First, on the wearers of snowboard wear on the market, I intend to investigate contents related with purchase, price, brand, style, etc., and grasp requirements and complaints. Second, I intend to know the evaluations of users according to itemized questions on the snowboard wear on the market. Third, I like to provide basic materials by investigating itemized requirements for the development of snowboard wear. On the male & female snowboarders on a skiing ground, I carried out a preliminary investigation in December, 2001, and a main investigation from January to February, 2002. The results are as follows: 1. Many of them purchased imported quality goods, and the rate purchase was high between 20～25 year. Loose two-piece suits of different colors were preferred. The most uncomfortable part proved to be a neck part. 2. The degree of general satisfaction with the snowboard wear on the market was 4.60. And in terms of itemized evaluation, dissatisfaction was found in Clothing construction, facility of laundry and handling, price and brand rather than in style, fiber composition and tactile sensation. 3. In the investigation of the requirements in case of snowboard wear development, the most common requirement was the facility of action. I believe this should be met by study on the choice of pertinent margin and the pattern development.
A Study on the Formativeness of Image of Medieval Religious Costume in the Modern Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 737~752
The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.
A Case Study on the Costume Culture of the Head Family for Adolescent′s Spot Experience Studying
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 753~766
The purpose of this study was to examine the cases of the family head's costume culture and to apply them to field experience education of adolescent's home economics subject. To examine the family head's costume culture, women in the family head in the Hampyeong area, Jeollanam-do were selected and interviewed. The focus of examining the family head's costume culture was on the life story of the family head, the reason to wear or possess such costume, and a motive of making. The findings of the head family's costume culture suggests that the head family of the Mos of Hampyeong had unique shroud making and custom. Also it was found that the eldest daughters-in-law of the Lees of Hampyeong have horizontally exchanged the information of the family head's costume with village women of the same family. They have initiated their costume culture directly through their daughters and it had the great influence on after-ages. The learning program for youth to experience the head family's costume culture consisted of four subjects:(l)Educating the family head's traditional living culture including etiquette training, (2)head family village walk, (3)experiencing the family head's clothes life including natural dyeing and sewing, and (4)a field trip of Hampyeong Local Life Culture Museum. For a model experience of the family head's costume life culture, three families with middle and high schoolers participated in 8- hour experience learning program. To examine the effect of learning program to experience the family head's costume culture, youth and their parents who participated in the program were asked open-ended questions, which included the content validity of experience learning, impressive experience, model experience level(difficulty), and expected effect after a model experience. As a result, their responses were found positive.
A Study of the Sex-role Perceptions Reflected upon the Term “Be Like ∼”
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 767~777
This study defines attributes of the Korean costume culture, focussed on hair, shoes and accessories which express sex-roles, encapsulated in the term, “be like...”. A group of 362 male and female university students from Seoul and Gyeonggi area was surveyed for the study. The statistical analysis of SPSS 10.0 was applied for analyzing the data, and the significant variances were reviewed by the basic statistics and t-test. The results are as follows; First, short hair is perceived as the typical hair style that symbolizes male, both from male and female university students. Hair colors in warm color such as brown, wine, purple, lemon and orange, and the style of hair such as bobbed, long, and perm are perceived as definite clues that symbolized female. Second, when it concerns the types of shoes, both male and female university students cited oxford as the typical clue that symbolizes male, whereas pumps and sandal were cited for female. Third, in terms of types of accessories, both male and female university students perceived necklace, earring, bracelet, hair pin and band, scarf, and muffler as very feminine. Among these, hair pin and band, and scarf are evaluated as the typical clues that signify the role of females. Necktie is perceived as the typical clue that signify male role.
A Study on the Sportism in Domestic Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 5, 2003, Pages 778~792
This study is to review, in the social and cultural context, the main causes for the sportism that prevails in modern fashion, and to analyze the typical expressions in the domestic fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time and abundant opportunities, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, emerging youth culture and increasing preference for such culture, and the postmodernism. With this background, sportism, which has been appearing in the domestic fashion, falls into 5 categories as follows based on the type of its expression. “Urban Street Sportism” is affected by the new sports culture of urban young people, which is characterized such that body line is disregarded with over-sized garment in layered style without considering T.P.O. concept. “Romantic Sportism” applies colors, fabrics and details of romantic images to sporty items, or culminates the feminine and elegant sportism by using the sporty fabrics and details along with romantic items. “Vintage Sportism” is characterized by its well-refined, high quality expression of naturally worn for long time, which is affected by the postmodernism. “Urban Utility Sportism,” which is developed with such design factors as fabrics, styles, details and colors with emphasis on their utility and functionality, explicitly accommodates the changed modern life styles particularly in urban areas. Lastly, the military image, which was developed during the Iraq War along with simultaneous anti-war activities, and the peace messages, which deliver the mankind's hope for the world peace and social wellness, formulate the “Military Sportism”.