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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2003
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2003
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Selecting the target year
Structural Relationship of Trust and Satisfaction on Loyalty and Word-of-Mouth in Relationship Marketing of Clothing Purchase
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 793~807
The purpose of this study is to show the component and anticipation factors of loyalty and word-of-mouth. Specifically, hypothesis is that trust in a salesperson will influence satisfaction with the salesperson, and the store. And the satisfactions with the salesperson and the store will influence the loyalty to the salesperson and the store. Another hypothesis is that loyalty to a salesperson and a store will influence word-of-mouth. Scale items used in this study were selected from developed scales and were adapted to conforming to the selling situation in the service setting. Factor analysis and Cronbach's alpha test were accomplished. A total of 703 samples was used to test the hypotheses. The primary method of statistical analysis to test the hypotheses was a structural equation modeling on LISREL 8.3. The results of the study are as follows: First, trust had an influence on satisfaction with a salesperson and a store. Second, the results suggested that satisfaction with the salesperson and the store influences loyalty to the salesperson and the store. Finally, loyalty to the salesperson and the store influenced word-of-mouth, as predicted.
The Comparative Study of Purchasing Characteristics of the Apparel Products Consumer using Internet Shopping Mall and the Cable TV Home Shopping
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 808~825
The purpose of this study is to research the reasons of this outcome by comparing the consumers purchasing characteristics of the Internet shopping mall and cable TV home shopping. A questionnaire was designed for on-line survey panels residing in Korea and the period of the survey was from July 30 to August 6, 2002. 1362 questionnaires were collected and 665 were chosen. The Frequency, %, t-test, and x2-test was performed using Korean version of SPSS 10.0. The summarized results of this study are as follows: The reasons of purchasing Apparel products through Internet and Cable TV home shopping are low price, time Saving, and convenience. The Item that is purchased most often at the Internet shopping mall is casual T-shirt. In case of the cable TV home shopping, it is inner-wears. Most of the users were satisfied with the home shopping. There are significant difference in ‘inexpensiveness of price’, ‘variety of product’, ‘sufficiency of product information’, ‘easiness of searching product’, ‘security of personal information’, ‘convenience of order’ in the side of consumers satisfaction. The reason of not using the media shopping are as follows: ‘Distrust of the product’ appeared one of the main reason of not using internet shopping mall and cable TV home shopping, accounting for 34.3%(Internet)/25.3%(Cable TV) of all respondents, followed by ‘absence of products(18.7%)’, In case of the cable TV home shopping, ‘lack of necessity of home shopping(24.7%)’ was the main reason.
Cloths Culture Study Based on the Trade Goods between Chosun Envoy and a Japanese Envoy in the Early Chosun Dynasty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 826~834
This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.
A Study on the Analysis of Patent Information in the Apparel Design -Focused on International Patent Classification-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 835~851
This study analyses patent information of apparel design using computer technology and researches the trend of patent application focused on International Patent Classification. In terms of trend by filling data, Patent application started first in 1974 and increased sharply in 1993 with 14 cases and increased to 25 cases in 2000. In case of Korea, they began somewhat late in 1996, but reached a similar level with the leading country in 2000. In terms of trend by applicant, Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. filed 7 cases TORAY IND INC, filed 6 cases Levi Strauss & Co. filed 4 cases, NEC HOME ELECTRONICS LTD filed 3 cases, TOYOBO CO LTD filed 3 cases. Japanese companies occupied 52% and United States's companies occupied 48%. In terms of trend by country, foreigner occupied 47% of the patents filed by United State. Japanese take up 10% of total patent of United States. Korean occupied 84% of total patent of Korea and foreigner, american occupied 16% of the patents filed by Korea. In regared to International Patent Classification, in the section level G filed 92 cases(53%). In class level, G06 marked the first place in United States, Japan, and Korea. In subclass level, G06F marksed the first place with 74 cases. G06T and A61B were regarded as the new technologies. The new technologies are representing the dimensions of garment or computer-rendered model, providing the virtual reality through the texture mapping, digital dressing room or virtual dressing, and performing or retriving display on a screen for the result of changing pattern ao dress design, The technologies of core patent are designing or producing custom manufactured item, providing or prealtering the data for pattern making and visually displaying, interactively generating or previewing of various articles.
A Study on the Changes of Social Meaning of Androgynous Image in Fashion Magazine(I) -Focused Fashion Item and Adornment-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 852~866
The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.
A Study on Satisfaction of Worker′s Uniform in the Mechanical Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 867~878
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for improvement in worker's uniform in both scientific and efficient ways. To make this procedure right, we brought the focus of the study into the present condition of working uniform in various machinery plants. The study was enforced by questionnaire and personal interview. The subjects of the survey were the 264 workers working in mechanical industry in Seoul. The results obtained from the researches by methods above are as follows. The level of satisfaction, on the whole, with their uniforms failed to reach the average level with the result of 2.97. The reason would be they have not been very contented with colors and materials. The level of satisfaction of color was only 2.76, far less reaching the average score 3. In detail, they complained color is dull, dark, too much solid and outdated. Surprisingly, the level of satisfaction with materials turned out to be really low as the materials used get dirty easily, doesn't draw moisture away from the skin quickly transport to surface making wearer more comfortable and doesn't have plenty of air moving out. According to statistics of population, the level of satisfaction of uniform on the whole differed from the point of age, gender, categories of industry, one's professional experience and income level.
A Study of Clothing Symbolism on the Last Popular Song Lyrics -on Lyrics by Produced 1995∼2001s-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 879~888
Song is a significant message with organic combination of relics and melody. As such, songs could be an important way to deliver messages in the relics and melodies. Among the several kinds of songs ‘popular song’ is the most common and has the strongest effect on the public. On this purpose, total 700 songs published from 1995 to 2001 popular songs have been researched after extracting 100 songs chronologically in regards of broadcasting times, popularity rankings and records of yearly awards during its production year. These selected popular songs have been collected and studied before sampling the expression of the costume included in the relics. Clothes, hair styling, make-up, shoes & purses, accessaries and body figure, etc. are covered In this study. As the recent symbolism embedded in the relics of popular songs is closely related with our generation background, public preference & dislike and the change of modem costume, it shows the symbolism of costumes evidently again.
The Comparison of the Body Measurement of Chinese Adult Women by the Age -with the Focus on the Women Residing in Beijing and Shanghai-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 889~901
The purpose of this study is to look into the physical features for each residential area by the age, with the female subjects residing in Beijing and Shanghai. This would provide the specific information regarding the body types of Chinese adult women, and additionally it would assist the effective advancement into the Chinese local markets by serving as the basic data for the size development and fitting improvement of clothing products for Chinese women. The body measurements were made with 525 adult female subjects of 20 to 49 years of age, residing in Beijing and Shanghai, China. The number of measurements items was 79. The results are as follows: As they grew older, the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai all showed increases in the items of width, thickness, girth, and length, which are highly correlated with the physical obesity, while they did not show any differences by the age range in the item of height. Differences were also found in the tendency of the type distribution by the age range of Chinese adult women in each residential area. As they grew older, the women residing on Beijing showed increases in the distribution of Body type 2 and Body type 4, which clearly indicated the features of obesity. On the other hand, the women residing in Shanghai showed the almost similar distribution in their 20's and 30's, while those in their 40's showed a high frequency in Body type 2 than in Body type 4.
Analysis of the Extracted Non-fibrous Matters from the Exhumed Textiles of Milchang-gun Burial of Mapo
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 902~912
The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.
A Study on Clothing Attitudes and Purchasing Behavior Relating to Self-Concept of College Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 913~924
The purpose of this study was to investigate the correlation between self-concept, clothing attitude and clothing buying behavior. The subjects used for the study were 300 male and female college students. The results of the study were as follows. The self-concept of subjects were identified four types(self-confident, positive to self, self-convinced and pessimistic). Self-confident type had the highest scores on self-concept and pessimistic type was the opposite. The clothing attitude was classified into 5 types(rational coordinative, clothing concerned, frugal, clothing showy and others conscious). Rational coordinative type and clothing concerned type were regarded more importantly than other types. The clothing buying behavior was emerged 5 types(economical, diffident, pleasure-seeking, impulsive and name-brand preferred). An economical efficiency was the most important factor in clothing buying behavior. The results of correlation between self-concept and clothing attitude showed that person who has more positive self-concept tends to have more interest and satisfaction toward clothing as well as tendency of showing off and rational coordination. The correlation between clothing attitude and clothing buying behavior showed that person who is more conscious to others tends to have more preference for name-brand products.
The Influence of Postmodernism on 20th Century Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 925~940
The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.
A Study of Costumes of India - Focusing on Distribution and Localization of Tailored Garment
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 941~955
In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.
A Study on the Cleaning Method of Excavated Textiles
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 956~966
The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.
A Study on the Ultraviolet(UV)-Cut Fiber
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 11, issue 6, 2003, Pages 967~971
As the concerns over health increased in 1990's, research and development on the health material were also activated. The development of UV-cut textile became the hot issue, because the damage of W irradiation due to ozone depletion has become widely known. UV-cut effect is determined by the material, the color, the organization and the density of UV-cut fibers. UV-cut effect is very different according to the fibers. Polyester is known to have a better effect. Even in the same textile material, staple fiber has more effect than filament fiber. Different colors have different offsets. Although textiles have the same color, the effects can be different according to the depth of color. PET, PET/cotton blend, nylon and cotton fabrics were ultraviolet cutting finished with padding method using several absorbers. These UV-cut effect can be improved through the processing. Safety of UV-cut textile for the body must be considered future, Until now the figure of the UV-cut effects has been emphasized. There has been no experiment on the human body, although the textiles are directly on the human body. Futhermore there os no safety standard of UV-cut textiles. Therefore every effort will be made to set the standard UV-cut processing is established. The need of UV-cut products will be known to the consumers.