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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
A Analysis of Turning Point of Fashion Cycle -Compare 1997 and 2002-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 327~338
This study was attempted to check period of a fashion cycle and to suggest its main-stream and sub-stream by analyzing the fashion trends presented in Vogue Korea between 1997 and 2002. A content analysis method was used to analyze 24 volumes. The result showed that the fashion trend of 1997's was a turning point from the simplicity, which was a trend up to 1996's, to the romanticism. The fashion trends of 2002 seemed to be also a turning point from the new-romanticism which was added the hippism to the romanticism continued from 1997, to the sporticism. The result confirmed that the main-stream of fashion theme have been continued for 5 years as a regular cycle system and could be repeated. It also verified that some sub-stream which was affected by social, cultural and political situation led the fashion changes. The results of this study could be expected to reflect not only fashion design, merchandising and marketing strategy but also consumer purchase behavior of the future.
Study on Type Classification and Design Characteristics of Coats
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 339~353
Purposes of this study were to analyzed coat types and characteristics of coat of young persons, and search whether fashion trend is reflected on coat. Data collected pictures that they are wearing dress in street of Daejeon city 3 places that there are much the rising generations at November, 1999. This study target was from teens latter half to 20 opening part, 154 women. Data analyzed content analysis, frequency analysis, crossing and the result is as following. First, classification standard of coat was textile fabric, form of detail and ornament. Second, coat could classify in three types, type 1 was traditional duffle coat style that is distinguished by form of detail and ornament(hood and button). Type 2 was classified property of textile fabric that used leather, padding, fur etc., and type 3 was classified by collar detail of woolen fabric coat. Specially, ornamental fur of woolen coat perceived visually strong. And design detail of coat showed significant difference in coat type. That is, duffle coat type was designed patch pocket and toggle, woolen fabric coat type was hidden button and seam pocket. Third, fashion tendency of coat was proved that is reflecting part of predicted fashion trend.
The Effect of Shirts-Color and Hat Color, Hat Design on Impression Formation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 354~368
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of Shirts-color(Different-color, Same-color) and Hat color(Red, Blue, Beige, Grey), Hat design (Beret, Cloche, Bowler, and Capeline) on impression formation. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The 7-point semantic thirty stimuli color pictures of various combination of hair length, hair style, and type of hat design were manipulated by computer drawing. The subjects were 360 undergraduates living in Seoul, Kyunggi and Kyungnam. The experimental design was composed of 3 factorial designs. The result of the study can be summarized as follows; Impression factor of the stimulus consisted of the 5 different dimensions. (concentration of attention, attractiveness, gracefulness, activity, tenderness). Concentration of attention, elegance, and tenderness in case of a hat as a clue, elegance and tenderness in case of the color of upper clothes as a clue, and all the factors except attractiveness and elegance in case of the type of hat as a clue were significant factors to differences of appearance. In regarding the effect of interaction between each variable, the combination of Hat color and Shirts-color had significant effects on tenderness, Hat color and type of hat design on concentration of attention, elegance and activity.
The Preference and Purchase Intention of American College Students on Korean Traditional Motifs and Their Relationship with Sensibility
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 369~378
The objectives of this study were to measure the preference and purchase intention on Korean traditional motifs and to investigate the relationship among preference, purchase intention, and sensibility. The subjects consisted of 217 male and 351 female US undergraduate students. The experimental materials used in this study were 48 stimuli and a questionnaire, composed of 7-point semantic differential scales of 17 bi-polar adjectives. The data were analyzed by ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, Regression, and t-test. The major findings were as follows; First, interpretation type and application object had significant effects on the preference, while category and interpretation type had significant effects on the purchase intension. The application of Korean traditional motifs for pattern design was preferred to their application for clothing design. Decorative type was found to be more related to the preference and purchase intention than the other interpretation types of realistic, stylized and abstract types. The purchase intention on crain motif was lower than the other categories of lotus and cloud motifs. Second, in overall, the preference on Korean traditional motifs was higher than purchase intention. Third, the preference and purchase intention were affected mainly by 'Quality' image, a component of sensibility, followed by 'Cheerfulness' image, but not affected by 'Simplicity' and 'Modernity' image.
Image Perception of Nurses' Uniforms according to Colors and Motifs
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 379~391
The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of uniform's color and motif on nurse's impression formation. The experimental design was 5×3×2(uniform color×motif ×perceiver's gender) factorial design with a between-subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The subjects were 738 undergraduate students of Daejon and Chungnam province. The SPSS package was used for data analysis which includes factor analysis, two-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, and Cronbach's α to measure the reliability. Results were as follows; The image or the stimulus was consisted of the 4 different dimensions(evaluation, sociability, ability, potency). All the independent variables showed some significant impression effects on selected dimensions. The motif and perceiver's gender also showed significant main effects as well as some interaction effects with the color variable on some selected impression dimension and the impression effects of the three variables in relationship to perceiving nurses' images. On a conclusion, these results supported the Gestalt theory.
An Analysis of Size Conditions and Patterns of Ready to Wear Basic Skirts for 20's Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 392~406
The purpose of this study is to recognize of the size conditions of ready to wear skirts and analyze the patterns of them so that some educational patterns can be complemented. For this purpose, the investigation of the size conditions was focused on the body sizes and products sizes of the care labels. The patterns of them produced through CAD have been classified into 24 items for the effective and practical analysis. Thus, 9 brands were selected and the basic skirts marketed in 2002 spring were analyzed. The results were as follows. 1. Designs of the backs of the basic skirts produced by 9 brands have the similar designs with two darts. Regarding the designs of the front, 6 brands of them have the designs with no darts, 3 of them have the one with two darts. Designs of waists are composed of low waists and round belts. 2. Regarding the waist circumference as the basic composing elements of skirts, 55.6% of the patterns have the composition of the styles with larger front than the back but 33.3% of them have the same front as back. As to the hips, 77.8% of them have the composition of the patterns with larger back than the front. As for the comparison of waist lines, 55.6% of them have lower front lines than the back lines. 3. Regarding darts placement, it was moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.8-2.4㎝, the length of the front darts was 7.8-9.5㎝, and the length of the back darts 8.4-11.1㎝ 4. The results of wearing-tests by the sensory evaluation, it showed that almost all the items of the results were satisfactory.
A Study on the Properties of Silk Fabrics Dyed with Walnut Shell Extract
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 407~414
A natural dye aqueous walnut shell extract was obtained by extraction of walnut shell using water at various conditions in this study. Silk fabrics were dyed at various dyeing and mordanting conditions using walnut shell extract and various mordants (Al, Cu, Fe ions). Studies have been made on the effects of dyeing and mordanting conditions on the dyeing properties and fastness (light, water and dry cleaning fastness) of dyed silk Fabric. The results obtained in this study were as follows;. The dye content in the walnut shell extract increased with increasing extraction temperature to 90℃ and extraction time to 120min, and thereafter the dye content decreased a little. The dry cleaning and water fastness of non-mordanted silk fabrics were better than those of mordanted silk fabrics.
Development of Torso Pattern according to the Physical Types of Men in 20s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 415~428
The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.
A Study on the Incroyables and Merveilleuses Costume after the French Revolution
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 429~440
The age after the French Revolution was the period of experiment and change in dress for both men and women. Directly after the close of the Reign of Terror, Directoire(1795-1799) became the extreme fashion known as incroyables and merveilleuses which mean 'impossible' or 'unimaginable'. This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through the French Revolution period and clothing analysis of incroyables and merveillues. Furthermore, this study will contribute to establishing the theory of clothing culture and help predicting clothing change in accordance with social circumstances. Incroyables and merveilleuses represent extreme opposites in sleekness of attire and grooming. Incroyables required an unkempt, wrinkled appearance and a contrived carelessness. Merveilleuseses show the exaggerated transparency and simplicity in the fashions of female. Also, they devoted to the worship of the antique and the masculine fashions. This fashion madness appeared as the result of revolutionary social change. Their costume showed characteristics of the transition period between French Revolution and Classic period. However, they simply carried existing tendencies to the point of caricature by an enthusiastic overstatement.
A Study on the Code of Pop. Art in Modern Style of Clothing -Since the Early of the 2000's-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 441~454
This article aimed at semiotically analyzing and encoding the characteristics of Pop. Artistic style of a dress in the 2000's, and understanding social and cultural meaning to characteristics revealed at modern style of a dress. As research methods, Pop. Art factors were adjusted to non-individuality, openness, eroticism, parody through precedent research comparing and considering Pop. art, and 61 photos were selected, and they were analyzed into signifier and signified. It's analysis results are as follows. Non-individualistic image revealed modern style of a dress was intensively indicated at the pattern aspect of Pop. Art style of a dress, and any remarkable characteristics were not shown at the form aspect. Non-individuality was actively and progressively expressed due to the effect of the 2000's trends to pursue of frank desire, artistic and sensual life. For open image revealed at modern style of a dress, the characteristics were intensively highlighted at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at textile and pattern aspect, and notable signifier did not turn up. Pop. Artistic eroticism in the 2000's could be seen to unconditionally expose, or commercialize sex, but fashionably and gorgeously re-interpret it, which was found that the expression to women was changed in a free and emotionally-oriented way by the influence of feminism, expansion of feministic thought and optimism on New-millenium. At parody, simple and humorous parody rather than deep intended or heavy mattered one was seen, which means the effect of the 21st culture pursuing pleasure, fun and humor appeared as an positive parody phenomenon. It is found that the Pop. Art style of a dress in the 2000s shows up as a feministic, bright, cheerful Pop. Art in that it creates exaggerated harmony mixed with decorativeness ad functionalism, and pursue for frank desire and reflects optimistic trend of New Millenium seeking for fun and humor.
A Study on the Costume in Classical Novel 'Shimchungjun' II- Focusing on the Woman's Costume -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 455~467
The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.
Profiling Female College Students' Apparel Buying Decision-Making Styles
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 468~484
The purposes of this study were (1) to segment female college students' apparel shoppers into unique apparel buying decision-making style groups; and (2) to profile for each segment in terms of personal characteristics (material values, change seeking tendency and prestige sensitivity) and fashion information sources. Data were collected through questionnaires from convenient sample of 290 female college students. As a result of cluster analysis and univariate analysis of variance, distinctive consumer decision-making style groups of consumers were identified; Value-maximizing Recreational Shoppers, Brand-Maximizing Emotional Shoppers, and Apathetic Shoppers. These three groups were compared as to the effect of personal characteristics variables and fashion information sources through univariate analysis of variance and chi-square statistics. The result showed that personal characteristics (material values, change seeking tendency and prestige sensitivity) and fashion-information sources do influence the consumer decision-making styles and that these three groups were unique in their decision-making characteristics showing that consumer decision-making styles can be a good segmentation base for apparel market.
A Study on Physical Recognition of Men in Their Twenties by Body Shape of the Lower Parts of the Body
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 3, 2004, Pages 485~496
The purpose of this study conducted a survey on 356 men in their twenties to investigate their recognition of their bodies. Also physical measurements were conducted on them and the lower parts of the bodies were classified into several types. The study examined the relevance of the subjects' recognition of their bodies to the physical types of the lower parts of the body. The results can be summarized as follows; There are four factors that constitute the physical shapes of the lower parts of the body and the lower parts of the body are classified into three physical types by cluster analysis. In terms of the degree of recognition of lower parts of the body shapes, the respondents' recognition of their bodies was similar to the actual measurements except for heights and leg lengths regardless of physical types, showing that they recognized well their actual physical types. With respect to the degree of satisfaction with body types, the surveyed were dissatisfied with thick circumference items and short length items. The actual measurements and the degree of recognition showed significant correlations in almost all the items while the actual measurements and the degree of satisfaction showed significant negative correlation in the circumference items. The degree of satisfaction with heights showed significant correlations with almost all measurements, demonstrating that the degree of satisfaction of the males in their twenties with the lower pats of body has closer correlations with the height items of the actual measurements that the circumference items. The degree of satisfaction with bodies was more dependent on people's recognition than the actual measurements.