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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
Research on the Mourning Garments of Modern Funeral Services in Gwangju
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 497~510
This research shows problems of modem Mourning Garments used in Gwangju area compared to traditional ones. Researches are as fellowed; First, items of mourning garments have been not used by degrees. Male has worn Jung-Dan and Du-ru-mak-i as Pyo-Eui of male mourning garments. Second, mourning garments have been simplified and modified. These simplification in shape and uniformity in size are only far Mass production and convenient manufacture. Third, modem mourning garments are made of 6-su (thin) Hemp cloth. In fact this material has no hemp and is just made of cotton and chemical textiles. Even though it is not made of hemp, it has been sold with the name of Hemp Cloth. Materials should be clearly listed. Forth, traditional mourning garments are manufactured through needlework while modern ones through mass production. Now the former is expensive rather than the latter. So Mass produced garments would be preferred to traditional made ones.
Comparison of the Difference between Body Perception and Satisfaction by Consumers' Pants and Skirt Preference and Wearing Style
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 511~528
The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of pants and skirt by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA, t-test and Duncan＇s test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about waist girth prefer high waist pants. The subjects with longer waist wear high waist pants. The subjects with wider hips wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer narrow pants but wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about calf thickness prefer narrow pants but wear wide pants. The subjects with the highest satisfaction about leg length prefer and wear calf length pants. The subjects with the thinnest calves prefer and wear tight pants. 2) The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer straight skirt but wear narrow down skirt. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about thigh thickness wear A-line skirt.
A Study of Clothing for Cheo-Yong Dancing Appeared in Ak-Hak-Gue-Bum
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 529~546
The Chosun Dynasty＇s establishment of Five-Ceremony, which occurred shortly after its founding, and the revision of traditional Korean music were based on Confucianism＇s Ceremony-Pleasure Idea(예약사상). The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of Cheo-Yong dancing, both social and political, on the role of royal dancing. Furthermore, this study will consider what the Chosun Dynasty＇s(조선) rulers pursued, by researching the reasonswhy Cheo-Yong dancing changed with the times along with the symbolic change of clothing for Cheo-Yong dancing through (Ak-Hak-Gue-Bum), a book which explains music and dance in Chosun Dynasty as a part of Ceremony-Pleasure Idea(예약사상) the people ruled ever the country tough courtesy etiquette and music. Consequently, Cheo-Yong dancing which was introduced in (Ak-Hak-Gue-Bum) played the roles of justifying, strengthening and displaying royal authority. And because the symbolism of Cheo-Yong dancing is reflected in clothing for Cheo-Yong dancing, it can be concluded that it expresses not only the sense of value of that times but also ruler＇s idea.
A Study on the Activities and Logistics Performance of SCM in Fashion Industry - Focused on the Supply Chain of Apparel Companies -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 547~565
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the level of SCM activities and the logistics performance by SCM of the three company types in fashion industry· fabric suppliers, apparel manufacturers, and retailers. The level of SCM activities was estimated through the examination of seven factors: commitment and leadership of a top management, flexibility of management, understanding of demand characteristics, integrated management organization, information system, cooperative partnership and communication and exchange of opinion. The logistics performance was measured by improvement in customer service(on time delivery ratio of products, returning rate, treat ratio for A/S, order fill rate, substitute providing capability for being out of stock) and delivery cost reduction. Through questionnaire survey, a total of 214 data for 108 companies of three company types were collected: 46 for 40 fabric suppliers, 123 for 64 apparel manufacturers and 45 for 4 retailers. The analysis of SCM activity levels showed that fabric suppliers had higher degrees in the factor of understanding of demand characteristics, and apparel manufacturers had higher degrees in the factor of information systems. For retailers, the factor of communication and exchange of opinion represented higher degrees. The study on relationship between the SCM activity levels and logistics performance showed that the SCM activity factor of understanding of demand characteristics greatly improved a substitute providing capability for being out of stock in fabric suppliers, and information system improved a substitute providing capability for being out of stock, on time delivery ratio of products and order fill rate in apparel manufacturers. In retailers, the SCM activity factor of understanding of demand characteristics decreased returning rate highly and improved on time delivery ratio of products. The study results showed that SCM activities in fashion industry brought more improvement in customer service levels rather than in delivery cost reduction.
The Influence of Advertising Evaluation on Advertising Attitude and Buying Intension for Casual Wear Advertisements
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 566~578
The purposes of this study were to identify the dimensions of advertising evaluation and to examine the influence of advertising evaluation on advertising attitude and buying intension. Also this study categorized the advertising responses. Through the pretest, 15 casual wear brand＇s advertisements were selected and presented as stimuli. The data was collected from 377 female university students using questionnaire and analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis and multiple regression fer path analysis. The results of This study were as follows. First, 5 factors were identified for the dimensions of advertising evaluation: model/message/product/brand/tone ＆ manner. Second, through the path analysis, advertising evaluation had direct and indirect influences on buying intension. The influences of dimensions of advertising evaluation on buying intension were also examined: model, message and product had indirect influence on buying intension mediated by advertising attitude, whereas product and brand had direct influence on buying intension. Especially, product affected considerably on buying intension. Third, advertising responses were categorized into five dimensions: tone ＆ manner/model/message/product/brand.
Comparison of TLC and GC-MS Method in the Analysis of Dye Extracted from Madder Plant
;S. Kay Obendorf;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 579~590
This research was aimed to investigate and compare the effectiveness of TLC and GC-MS methods in the analysis of chromophoric substances extracted from madder plant. Alizarin and purpurin 0.3% solution were used as comparative standards; madder extraction was prepared by heating the solution of powdered madder at 80℃, pH 1.5, for 90 min. Best elution solvent for TLC in silica gel plate was toluene:ethyl acetate=9:1, which resulted in red and yellow spots from madder extraction each of which showed R/sub f/ values 0.32-0.43 and 0.07-0.11. Although the red spot in particular exhibited similar characteristics as standard purpurin in color, shape, and R/sub f/ values, the result was inconsistent throughout different TLC trials. GC-MS analysis showed only small amount of alizarin and no purpurin in the madder extraction. Other chromophoric substance such as 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethyl)-, anthralin, and danthron were also detected in small amounts. The result indicated that TLC was less sensitive to detecting and identifying the natural dyestuff which is generally constituted with a number of similar but chemically different chromophoric substances.
Effect of Fumigation on the Strength of Excavated Costumes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 591~598
This study examines the effects and influences of fumigation using chemical composite of Methyl Bromide and Ethylene Oxide on the change of strength of excavated dresses. The fabric strength immediately after washing and fumigation increased slightly, but it decreased greatly as the time progressed. The strength of the test sample from Museum A showed a steady decrease with time, while that of Museum B decreased rapidly 5 months later. Compared with the non-fumigated sample, fumigated sample was greater in strength regardless of the time progression, and the strength of sample kept in the exhibit hall was greater than that kept in the storage room. The strength of the fumigated sample was almost same regardless of the three different time periods, before washing, after washing and immediately after fumigation, and it decreased steadily with time, whereas the non-fumigated sample became much weaker in its strength in 10 months after washing. Even 5 months later, the fumigated sample was about as strong as immediately after fumigation, but the strength dropped to a great extent 10 months later.
A Study of Sheng's Stage Costume in Peking Opera
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 599~613
The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.
The Influence of Women's Self-Concept on Cosmetic Benefits Sought
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 614~627
The objectives of this study were to investigate the relationships between self-concept and cosmetic benefits sought, to disclose the differences in the benefits according to demographic variables and cosmetic purchase behavior, and to examine how cosmetic benefits were influenced by self-concept and demographic variables of women. Subjects were 453 women in age from 18 to 55 years in Seoul. Four dimensions of cosmetic benefits of women were derived by factor analysis :＇brand orientation＇, ＇fashion＇, ＇economies＇, and ＇functional efficiency＇, Cosmetic benefit was influenced most by family self-concept, and self-concept was influenced most by benefit of economics, next by functional efficiency, and fashion. Brand orientation, fashion, and economics showed significant differences according to marital status. The higher the income, the higher the score on brand orientation, fashion, and functional efficiency. There were significant differences in brand orientation, fashion, and economics according to cosmetic purchase expense, the number of purchase times, and stores, while functional efficiency showed no significant difference depending upon the number of cosmetic purchase times. Brand orientation was influenced by marital status, income, and physical self, fashion influenced by age(-), physical self, income, and family self(-). Economics was influenced by family self(-) and marital status(-). The present findings provided that self-concept such as physical self and family self is significant variables to understand the cosmetic benefits sought.
Product Development of Children's Knitwear -Study on the Sensibility of Preferred Children's for Children's Underwear-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 628~637
The objectives of this study were to investigate the preference of characters for children＇s underwear and to find out the sensibility factors of preferred characters. It was also examined what sensibility factors of the characters were important for children＇s underwear as well as how characters were recognized as a factor in purchase of children＇s underwear. The research sample consisted of 300 Korean mothers who have children ranging from first to six grade in elementary school. Data were analyzed by Frequency analysis, ANOVA, and t-test. The results are as follows: According to the sensibility analysis, character image was classified into 3 factors, Pleasure, Riches, and Childish; Among three sensibility factors, Pleasure was the most important factor to affect the preferred character; National characters were more preferred than licensed characters.
A Study on the Slacks Fit and Perception of Lower Body Fitness of Women in 20's
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 638~647
This study surveyed some general fit problem of the ready-to-wear slacks of women in 20＇s. A questionnaire survey was administered to 80 women in 20＇s. 14 body dimensions were measured fer 53 women among the subjects who participated in this survey. Their anthropometric data were analyzed and the difference between actual and perceived body shape was compared. The results of this study showed that the subjects experienced poor slacks fit at thigh, crotch, and hip areas. Occasionally subjects altered the waist size of slacks after purchasing them. Despite the subjects＇ waist measurement was ranged from 22 to 33 inches, most of them purchased slacks with size 26 or 27 inches. The researchers claimed that the manufacturers did not provide various slacks sizes for women in 20＇s. The subjects, who had problems with poor slacks ft, preferred to buy customized slacks. The most of subjects preferred to buy mass customized slacks to have chance to choose their own style from pool of various styles. The subjects tended to perceive their body size larger than actual at hip and thigh. The most critical body dimension reflected their perception on lower body fitness was waist circumference.
A Study on the Application or Fashion Illustration for the VMD Plan - Focusing on POP Advertisement -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 648~662
These days fashion market is overflown with many brands and their identities are not so clear that the advertisement emphasizing the characteristics of the products don＇t seem to be adequate in appealing the customers. Therefore it is required that the sensible image advertisement which appeals to the customers by stimulating their feeling and sensitivity to attract customer＇s interest. At that point, VMD especially of POP advertisement that can be attract direct purchasing plays an important part to build up the accurate image of brand to consumers. Even thought today＇s individualized consumers take much interested in the fresh and original expressions, the visual expressions of fashion advertisements still focus on using photographs. The most advertisement of photograph has a limit that it shows only an immediate fraction, so it can＇t present whole image It can deliver more- imaginations and message than photograph if fashion illustration is used in advertisement. Therefore the purpose of this study was to present the application of fashion illustration for the POP advertisement Twelve pieces of fashion illustrations were produced and classified three parts according to their images and expression techniques. Paper sculpture techniques were applied for fashion image expression, for paper is easily meet daily life and ecological materials. For study procedure and contents, the concept and useful functions of fashion illustration and the concept of paper sculpture were examined as a theoretical background, and various uses and techniques of paper sculpture by analysing a number of paper sculpture art works were also studied. Also the concept, roles and functions of POP advertisement were discussed, and then the examples that the fashion illustration applied in the advertisement were analyzed through case study. The theme of my works was jean fashion brand whose brand image is significant, Twelve pieces of fashion illustrations using paper sculpture techniques were produced and various kinds of paper were used in expressing the paper sculpture technique. Each works were cut out the forms and used a pertinent light for making cubic effect shadow when displayed them. In my works Ⅰand Ⅱ, Ⅰ illustrated jeans in two images of sexy and casual, these were created slightly bigger than actual body size in order to attract consumer＇s gaze at show window or store. In my works Ⅲ, Ⅰ illustrated part or model of a jean product so that it could be used as addition to main display.
A Study on Fashion Design Applied with the Plastic Arts -Focused on Mondrian's Geometrical Abstract Painting Shown in the Twenty Century's Fashion Design-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 663~675
The plastic arts is used when designers draw inspirations to create fashion design. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10-year period(1991-2000). The collections of data were analyzed as following: ◇ Fashion Designing Idea 1. Matching Idea The art is reproduced in the design as how it is with no transformation. First, the painting＇s complete figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. Second, the painting＇s partial figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. 2. Contrasting Ideas The composition elements in Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting, for example, structures of shapes, vertical and horizontal lines and different colors are applied in the design. First, one particular shape in painting is transformed into different shape of square, circle or triangle and reproduced in designing. Second, one particular shape in painting is disassembled and then reshaped into different form in reproduction. Third, additional lines are put in to create different look from the original painting. Forth, existing lines are extended over the boundary to create different look from the original painting. Fifth, achromatic colors: black and white, and three basic colors: red, blue and yellow in the original painting are modified into different shades or color scheme is increased in broad range.
The Study of Human Body Expression and Fashion Design Appeared in Popular Culture -Focused on Movies in Korea and American-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 4, 2004, Pages 676~690
The purpose of this study is to investigate the symbolic meaning in body image and fashion style portrayed in Korea and American movies in aspects of sex, race, nature, and technology. The researcher analyzed movies in Korea and USA, and the results were as follows. In aspects of sex, movies portrayed new masculinity and femininity escaped from previous gender stereotypes, and the clothing styles characterized sex identity and sex roles. In aspects of race, more various races appeared in America movies than Korea＇s, and the appearance and stereotypes related with race were blurred by the globalization and the change of film market environments. In aspects of nature, Korea movie portrayed the human being as lyrical appearance in nature, and America movie expressed the human as a strong men conquering the nature in adventure movie or super human image combined with nature thing which endowed nature＇s superior characteristics to human body in fantasy and science fiction movies. In aspects of technology, the human bodies were described as cyborg, alien, or super human, which symbolized the do-identification in digital world, de-boundarization between human and machines, and the human＇s uncertainty.