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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
A Study on Marketing Strategy according to Exploration of the Consumer Information through Internet Community
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 691~701
The first purpose of this study was to compare the factors of information searching before purchasing with the factors of information offering after purchasing of the products, which were communication contents about the wedding Hanbok in internet communities. The second purpose was to propose marketing strategies for internet wedding Hanbok marketer. To accomplish the goal, the content analysis method which considered references and opinions of internet community members was used. Two hundred cases from WEDDING CLUB(62,893members), WEDDING GONGBU (18,649members), and WEDDING DOUMI (17,326members) in Daum internet portal site were selected from August 1 to September 21, 2003. The results were as follows: First, the information factors which were considered seriously when consumers purchased wedding Hanbok, were design, the level of sewing, price, store location, cognitive power, service level, and manufacturing time. Second, the consumers considered the price as the most important factor when they searched internet information. Third, the service factor was also considered importantly, and it was recognized important factor so much after purchasing as before purchasing wedding Hanbok. Fourth, the factors such as cognitive power, manufacturing time and store location were seriously considered as the information searching factors before purchasing. It showed higher rate when compared with information offering factors of after purchasing the wedding Hanbok. Fifth, the factor of sewing was considered as lower rate than other factors. It showed similar results before and after purchasing the wedding Hanbok.
A Study on the Physiological Responses to the Texture
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 702~706
Sensorial tests were executed to find the sensibility and texture of the fabrics. The physiological responses employed in this study was electroencephalogram(EEG). The purpose of this study is to find out how the sample groups responded to the texture of the woven silks and the woven ramie. The sample groups are of 10 males and females, age of 25. EEG was recorded a fast and slow alpha wave according to the texture of the textiles. The sample fabrics are of woven silk and woven ramie. The results obtained as be lows. When the sample groups touched the woven silk, they responded and showed more slow alpha wave than the woven ramie. The slow alpha wave raised when the sample groups felt comfort and relax. The fast alpha wave were more in the woven ramie, it raised when the people felt the tension and the anxiety. There was no significant difference between the male and the female. Woven silk has the soft and smoothness it causes comfort. The sensation of tactile was recorded through the EEG.
A Comparison of the Consciousness of Middle Age Women′s Body Image between Self-Evaluation and Others′ - in Gwang-Ju -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 707~720
This study focused on the comparison of the consciousness of middle age women's body image between self evaluation and others'. The respondents include 105 middle age women who evaluated themselves and 532 middle age women who evaluated others in there age group in Gwang-Ju. The Questionnaire was comprised of two components; Part One is consciousness of body-shape and Part Two is body cathexis (or a body preference). For data analysis, SPSS 10.0 program was generally used, and T-test, ANOVA, Scheffe-test were being conducted. The results of study were as follow; On consciousness of body shape, the items that exist difference of opinion on the comparison of the consciousness of middle age women's body-shape between self-evaluation and others' evaluation were total body fatness, upper body type, low arm girth, thigh girth in lean group, and crotch of pants length, ankle girth, calf girth, in normal group, and upper body type, lower body type in obese group. On a body-cathexis, the item were neck, buttocks, bust, posture in lean group(p<.05), and neck, upper arm, abdomen in normal group(p<.01), and waist, abdomen, weight distribution in obese group(p<.01).
A Study on the Aesthetic Value Featured in the Body Decoration in Contemporary Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 721~736
The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.
Strength Restoration of The DP Finished Cotton Fabric by Enzymatic Treatment
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 737~742
The purpose of this study is restoration for tearing strength of the durable press (DP) finished 100% cotton fabric by enzymatic treatment. Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU) was used as a DP finish chemical. Enzymes (cellulase, pectinase, protease, lipolase) were selected based on their specific reaction activities. Ideal application of the enzymes for this work was to remove cross-links created by DMDHEU on the surface of the fibers to offer migration property between microstructures of cellulose, yet cross-links that exist inside of the fibers are still remained to impart effect of wrinkle resistance. Physical characteristics (tearing strength, wrinkle recovery, FT-IR) of enzyme treated samples were measured and compared. It was found out that, in case of enzyme treatment, most of enzymes didn't have a great effect on tearing strength, but, in case of Protease, tearing strength increased at DMDHEU 2% treatment. As a result of an experiment on wrinkle recovery of the textiles treated with enzyme making density of DMDHEU different whenever respective experiment was made, it was discovered that density of DMDHEU increased as wrinkle recovery increased and, in the relation to enzyme treatment especially in Lipase enzyme treatment, the lesser density of DMDHEU, the more wrinkle recovery increased.
A Study on the Measurement of Korean Women′s Head for Headgear Pattern Making
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 743~756
The purpose of this study is to set measurement parts which are important to identify the size and shape of the head in order to produce tightly fitted hats, and to identify detailed sizes and the major factors of head shape classifications of Korean women. A total of 285 Korean women's in the age group of 18 to 35 years old. It were measured through the direct measurement method by selecting 67 measurement items. Materials were analyzed by SPSS Ver.10 and technology statistics and factor analysis were performed according to the agenda. An attempt was made to conduct factor analysis of the measured region of the head in women's. Here, this study drew the head and the facial parts horizontal size as Factor 1, the head and facial parts vertical size as Factor 2, the circumference and width item as Factor 3, the factor representing the form of head height as Factor 4, the factor expressing the proportion of the facial form as Factor 5 and the factor about the frontal and back head form on the plan of the middle as Factor 6. Through this study, we will be able to systemize head measurement materials that can differentiate Korean's head from other peoples' and can use the results in developing head shape models according to Korean's head shape by selecting major head parts needed to identify the sizes and shapes.
Analysis on the Measurement and Shape Classification of the Head and Face for Korean Female Children Aged 9~12 Years
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 757~768
This study was aimed to provide the fundamental and various measurement data of the head and face for Korean children. Two hundred sixty nine female children, aged nine to twelve years, participated for this study. The 28 regions on the head and face of the subjects were directly measured by the expert experimenters. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, GLM analysis and Tukey HSD test were performed' using these data. Through factor analysis, six factors were extracted upon factor scores and those factors comprised 71.42% for the total variances. Four clusters as their head and face shape were categorized using six factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 was characterized by the shorter head & face length and width and the lowest position from forehead to nose. Type 2 had the longer head & face length and width and the highest ear position and the largest mouse width. Type 3 was characterized by the longest and head & face type and the widest head & face girth. Type 4 was characterized by shortest head & face length the lower ear and lips position.
A Study on the Knit Pattern Considering the Characteristics of Rib Stitch(1) - Focused on 0
0 and 1
1 Rib Stitches
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 769~780
This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.
A Study on Natural Dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan -Mordanting Effect of Purified Aluminum Compounds-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 781~791
Currently, as mordants, heavy metals are being used in dyeing process in order to improve dye uptake and dye fastness. These chemicals, however, are mostly harmful to human body and the environment along with the pollution by effluent. Traditionally, rice straw ash solution, lime, etc. have been used as mordants in order to improve the effects on dye uptake and color fastness of dyestuffs. The study of natural mordants would, therefore, be vital to the development and succession of our traditional dyeing methods. In this study, as a preliminary step toward the use of rice straw ash solution for the nautral dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan, several aluminum compounds were employed as mordants. When the purified aluminum compounds were used, on the basis of unmordanted cotton fabric, the K/S values of the pre-mordanted and simultaneously mordanted fabrics increased by 2 or 3 times, while those of the post-mordanted fabrics decreased.
Sportism in Fashion Generated from Hybrid
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 792~804
Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.
A Study on the Equity Evaluation of the National Shoes Brands based on the Customers Perception
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 805~818
The recent interests of the 'brand equity' concept as the essential subject in the brand management and control sector has induced the fashion marketers to evaluate the fashion brand equity. Thus this study conducted a survey on the consumers that were aware of three national shoes brands(Kumkang, Esquire, and Elcanto) and analyzed the results using SPSS 11.0. The research results were as follows. First of all, factor analysis was carried out to find out the elements of brand equity that customers put emphasis on three national shoes brands(Kumkang, Esquire, and Elcanto). Four important brand equity elements were found such as individuality, brand/corporate awareness, satisfaction, and price benefits. Secondly, regression was executed to find out more important brand equity elements that influence the customers. Among them individuality was considered as the most important element, followed by brand/corporate awareness, satisfaction, and price benefits. Finally Kumkang was found out to have the highest brand equity, followed by Esquire, and Elcanto based on the customer's evaluation.
An Analysis of Cultural Meaning on Advertisements for Man′s Cosmetics
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 819~831
Under the social conditions that an understanding of a men change socially and men's interests in their appearances are on the increase, this research intends to study and analyze the changes of people's sensibility of values on ads for men's cosmetics, which is said to be performed the social, cultural function reflecting the social consciousness, the value and the idea creating a new one. The documents for the research was sindonga. The ad showed that they've changed making a difference according to the times. In 1970s, it expressed a man for cleanness and modernity living in urbanized and modernized society. On the other hand, it expressed a man who won success socially and enjoyed a comfortable life in a dignified manner, or a man who was fond of sports leisure activity pursuing a clam and composed life and was interested in the skin and an appearance in 1980s. From 1990 to 2002, it expressed a man of challengeable manly beauty having a strong will toward social achievement, or a man who has a sweet manly beauty with sex appeal to a woman. Besides, it expressed a man who is soft, faithful and affectionate with a liberal and peaceful atmosphere as well.
Cyber Society and Men′s Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 832~844
The purpose of this study is to explain innovative changes of men's fashion in 'a cyber society', which has come with the advent of internet revolution and where we have witnessed social changes in view of sex, race and class. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study characteristics of cyber society. And demonstrative studies on men's fashion were undertaken through the analysis of photos. 'Cyber space' is defined as 'a communication network of informations and opinions' or 'pseudo world created by computer technology'. Our current world, which has continuous interaction with cyber space, can be understand as cyber society. In a cyber society, transcendental structure is not accepted, feminine characteristics appear more frequently, and western-biased territorial features lose its ground. These characteristics are rooted in ideological characteristics of cyber society, such as opposition and composition. Considering the characteristics of cyber society, the aesthetic images of men's fashion in cyber society can be explained with de-authoritarianism, metrosexualism and multi-culturalism.
Fascism Expressed in Military Looks: Since the 1990s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 845~858
The purpose of this study is to identify the association of military looks with fascist aesthetics and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in military looks. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic papers, and examined masters' and doctors' theses, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the Internet. The facism expressed in military looks is as follows: First, nationalism, reflecting the current ideology of rebellion, appeals to the original national sentiment of the masses. Second, temptation implies that fascism tempts the mass using the nature of charisma rather than by force and, by doing so, accumulates mighty power without military force. Third, mythology is utilizing images and symbols of great appeal to people for absolute power beyond the concept of time. In order to express power for the effusion of emotional energy through the vision for realities and the magical power of images. Fourth, barbarism is always harbored in the conflict and confrontation of interests among ideas, economies, religions and classes on the other side of contemporary civilized society.
A Study of Costumes of the 18th Century, Appearing in Genre Paintings from the King Young-Cho Period to the King Jung-Cho Period: Focused upon the Works of Focused upon the Works of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 859~879
As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.
A Study on Trompe l′Oeil Expressed in Modern Fashion -Focused on 1990s-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 5, 2004, Pages 880~896
Trompe l'Oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modem fashion pursuing unique individuality. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe l'Oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe l'Oeil and on analysing the technique of expression. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Trompe l'Oeil represented in modem fashion in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10 year period(1990-1999). The collections of data were analyzed as following: Effectiveness depending on the method of Trompe l'Oeil I. Effectiveness of Layering: when two clothing are over lapped or coordinated with one another in color or style. 2. Effectiveness of Detailing: when pictures, stitch, tape, cutting, quilting and etc are used to create collar, pocket, yoke, zipper, string, shadow and etc. 3. Effectiveness of Accessories: when the image of necklace, belt, tie, tassel, badges and stars are represented by illustration or embroidery on clothing to substitute the actual existence. 4. Effectiveness of Nudity: when human body is realistically drawn and printed on clothing.