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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
A Comparative Study on the Measurement of Korean Adult Hand for Glove Pattern-Making
Suh Mi-A ; Ryu Kyung-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 897~907
The aim of this study is provide fundamental data on the glove size and pattern-making. The study was conducted targeting 60 men and 271 women whose age were within the limits 18-35 in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 90 features in the right hand wew used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry and photometry. The result show that there was a difference between men and women' hand. And the result of correlation analysis between hand factors, length factor related to length and depth factors, breadth factor related to breadth and circumference factors. The sailing glove size in Korea was not suitable to Index finger circumference at 1st Phalanx and Middle finger length.
A Study on Natural Dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan -Mordanting Effect of Rice Straw Ash Solution-
Kwon Min-Soo ; Choi In-Ryu ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Jeon Dong-Won ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 908~917
In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if
ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.
Visual Narrative Technique in Modern Fashion Photography - Focusing on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's Stranger in Paradise -
Yun Young ; Yang Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 918~932
Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.
Analysis on the Measurement and Shape Classification of the Head and Face for Korean Male Children aged
Lee Hyun-Min ; Choi Hei-Sun ; Kim Son-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 933~944
This study was aimed to provide the fundamental and various measurement data of the head and face for male children. Two hundred forty one male children, aged nine to twelve years, participated for this study. The 31 regions on the head and face of the subjects were directly measured by the expert experimenters. Through factor analysis, the six factors were extracted upon factor scores and those factors comprised
for the total variances. The first factor was described the general height elements for the mouth and the environs of the mouth. The second factor was described the general height around the nose, forehead and eyes. The third factor was described the height of the ear environs. The forth factor contained the length around the sinciput to the occiput, the head thick and the head circumstance. The fifth factor was described the general width of the outer head and the corner of the eyes. The last factor contained the depth of the mouth and nose. Four clusters as their head and face shape were categorized using six factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 was characterized by the shortest head and face width, surface length and girth, and the shorter length of head, but the highest position of chin, philtrum, upper lip. Type 2 was characterized by the shortest head and face length and thickness, and the lowest position of the forehead, eye, nose, mouth, ear environs, but that had wider width of head and face. Type 3 was characterized by the longest and the widest head and face type, and the highest position of the mouth. Type 4 was characterized by longer length of head and face, and the widest head girth and largest head thickness, and the highest position of the forehead, eye, nose environs. And this type had the widest width of nose and mouth, and the longest head surface length.
Shrink-Resist Effects and Properties of the Knitted Fabrics from Wool/Acrylic Fiber Blends
Lee Youn-Hee ; Kwak Soo Kyoung ; Park Myung-Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 945~952
Shrink-resist effects and properties of the knitted fabrics from wool/acrylic(W/A) fiber blends were determined to find out an optimal blending ratio keeping the quality properties of wool products. The test fabrics were knitted by a weft knitting machine with all needle knitting structure (
rib) under the same knitting conditions with five different types of yarns:
, and W/A blended yarns(70/30, 50/50, 30/70). Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of W/A knits. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of W/A knits, especially, over
acrylic blended knits. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that W/A blend knits can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling. W/A 50/50 blended knits did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers care wool knitted clothes more conveniently.
A Study on the Design of Men's Jacket Pattern
Lee Won-Ja ; Kim Jin-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 953~970
The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.
A Study on Image Perception according to Perceiver's Social Value and Hair Style Variation
Lee Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 971~983
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceiver's social value, hair style, and hair color of object person on image perceptions. For social value variable, materialism and traditionalism were investigated. Subjects were 343 women in Seoul. Perceiver's materialism gave a significant influence on perception of elegance. The less materialistic group evaluated the hair style of object person more elegant than the more materialistic group. The more traditional group evaluated bright brown hairs less pretty than the less traditional group. This means that traditional people have less preferable image on bright brown hairs compared to the black and dark brown hair as it is different from Korean traditional hair color. Medium straight hair styles were evaluated lowest in preference and individuality. Short straight hairs were evaluated as the most elegant style and medium permanent hairs as the least elegant one. Long wavy hairs were evaluated highest in femininity, and straight hairs were evaluated lower in prettiness and activity than wavy hairs. The bright brown hairs were evaluated as the most individual color, and black was the least one. The bright brown was perceived lowest in elegance. Black and dark brown of the short straight hair style were perceived much more elegant than the bright brown of the same style, and black long wavy hairs were evaluated highest in femininity. The present findings provide that social value, hair style, and hair color are significant characteristics when perceiving women's image.
A Study on the Contents and Consumers' Recognition of Clothing Product Evaluation Statements in the Internet Apparel Shopping Mall
Choi Eun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 984~998
The purpose of this study was to analyze contents of clothing product evaluation statements in the internet shopping mall and to discover consumers' recognition and evaluation of it. The data were collected from 151 consumers' statements in the four internet apparel shopping malls and a questionnaire was developed to measure consumers' recognition of clothing product evaluation statements. The questionnaire was administrated 272 consumers over 18 years old. The results of this study were as follows; First, The contents of clothing product evaluation statements in the internet shopping blog, were divided into three categories which were product, service and consumer buying decision process. Product category include evaluation of clothing product, description of difference between real product and product on the screen, and advice of uses. Service category include quickness and kindness in delivery, store preference for good service. For consumer buying decision process, motivation of purchasing, perceived risk, expression of satisfaction from good buying and canvassing for purchasing were included. Second, consumer recognized that clothing product evaluation statements has function of furnishing information, confirmation of purchasing decision, risk reduction of internet shopping, and interesting entertainment. Consumers also were dependent on product evaluation statements for making purchasing decision. And it was trusted by consumers. This recognition & evaluation were correlated with consumer's clothing product knowledge, involvement, risk perception of internet shopping, experiences of internet shopping. Managerial implications are provided for internet shopping mall.
Natural Dyeing of Chitosan Nonwoven Fabric
Kim Jong-Jun ; Kwon Min-Soo ; Jeon Dong-Won ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 999~1009
Chitin is a derived product from the shell of shrimp or crab. Chitosan, a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. Chitosan exhibits fiber-forming property under certain conditions. Nonwoven fabrics made of chitosan fibers may have diverse applications in the industry. Previous studies have revealed that the dye uptake properties of natural dyestuffs improved by the chitosan pretreatment on the fabric specimens. In this case, fabric specimen is coated with acidic salt form of chitosan, which is different from the pure chitosan, since the coating process employes coating with the acidic solution of the chitosan and subesquent drying. In this study, chitosan nonwoven fabric samples were prepared from chitosan sample having deacetylation degree of
and molecular weight of 650,000. Chitosan nonwoven fabrics maintain the form of
end-group. These in turn exhibit higher dye uptake ability than the fabrics coated with chitosan acidic solutions do.
Characteristic Changes of Disposable Clothes Fabric on Printing using Natural Dyeing
Shin Jung-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1010~1020
The purposes of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric by the charcoal and the yellow soil printing. It separate the grind charcoal and the yellow soil as two different size of particles
for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of the charcoal and the yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe surface changes by a scanning electron microscope, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, deodorization and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When the charcoal and the yellow soil powder concentration increased from 3 to
or from 5 to
, K/S value also increased from 3.06 to 8.55 or from 1.14 to 1.80. The charcoal and the yellow soil moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. In concentration of charcoal
, rate of deodorization measured as
of high deodorization. In concentration of 5,
of yellow soil, rate of deodorization measured as
over. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of
concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted
of excellent antibacterial activity. Also
yellow soil concentration was appeared same resoult.
A Study on the Head Type of Korean Women's for Headgear Pattern Making
Ahn Young-Sill ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1021~1030
The purpose of this study was to develop and make the head form by setting the region of the head for detailed measurement of the head to make the type of closely fit hat and typifying the head form of Korean women's with each region of the head based on the measurements of each region of the head according characteristics. A total of 285 Korean women's in the age group of 18 to 35 years old. It were measured through the direct measurement method by selecting 67 measurement items. As a result of the findings obtained from cluster analysis could be classified into 3 type. Type 1(
) is U-shaped form, that is high in head height on sides and circumference is smallest, whose facial region and occiput is flattest of three types. Type 2(
) is inverted triangle form, that is flat in head ridge, low in head height on sides and wide in the frontal width. Type 3(
) is oval form, that is largest in size, has the projected occiput and is of three-dimensional form.
A Study on Consumer's Value, Sportswear's Benefit Sought and Attribute Evaluation
Lee Hyun-Kyung ; Lee Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1031~1044
The purpose of this study were to investigate the relationships between consumer's value and sportswear's benefit sought/attribute evaluation, and to examine how sportswear's benefit sought were influenced by consumers' value and demographic variables. Subjects were 468 males and females in their teens to 30's in Seoul. Consumer's value was classified into four dimensions by using factors analysis: materialism, achievement orientation, traditionalism, and other consciousness. The value of materialism and achievement orientation had positive relations with brand orientation, fashion, appearance attraction, enterprise image, and brand advertisement of sportswear in both male and female. Achievement orientation had, in case of the male, positive relations with economics, practicality, fabrics, and quality of sportswear. In case of the female, traditionalism had positive relations with economics and practicality, and other consciousness value had positive relations with brand advertisement. Materialism was the most important in predicting brand orientation, followed by social class in both male and female. Age was the most important in predicting practicality, followed by achievement orientation in case of the male. Materialism(-) was, in case of the female, the most important in predicting practicality, followed by traditionalism, achievement orientation, and age.
Study of Total Coordination as Determined by Personality and Appearance-Related Characteristics
Yeom In-Kyung ; Kim Mi-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1045~1059
The purpose of the present study was to investigate the total coordination as determined by personality, appearance-related characteristics. Data were collected through a self-administered questionnaire survey from December 18, 2003 to January 13, 2004 from 650 women living in Seoul in the age range of
; 500 were used for the data analysis. Data were analyzed by chi-square analysis, ANOVA, descriptive statistics, cluster analysis and Duncan's multiple range test were used. The results showed significant differences in the total coordination behaviors among the groups divided by personality and appearance-related characteristics. Those who had the independent extrovert personality, egg-shaped face or white skin color were most positive with regards to the extent and behaviors of the total coordination.
A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty
Choi Kyu-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 12, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1060~1069
We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period (
), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in
. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).