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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Body Proportion of Children
Choi, In-Ryu ; Bang, Hey-Kyong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 1~5
The objective of this paper is to provide fundamental data to establish measuring system of clothing that is more accurate. For the objective, stature and ration of height items, stature and ratio of circumference item, stature and ratio of length item on the children are investigated to obtain the interrelation of each item. Data for the research are selected from 52 people of 6 years old on boys and 49 people of 6 years old on girls who dwell in Seoul. The results of the research are as follows. Because ratio of the body on the stature of children is different from ratio of the adult, the same method for the adult cloth is not appropriate when producing the cloth of the children. observing the interrelation of each measurement item, measurement system of the children cloth that is indicated by the stature and the breast circumference, the stature and the waist circumference is not reasonable. Because the value of correlation of back length and circumference item was, it is not suitable that the back length is graded by the breast circumference when producing the cloth of the children.
A Study of Lower Body Shapes of Plus-sized Women to Index
Ha, Hee-Jung ; Sung, Ok-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 6~17
The purpose of this research is to define low body shapes of Plus-sized women at ages between 21 and 69 whose satisfied the Plus-sized judgment criteria took part in this study. This research also classifies different body types, and provides basic data for designing skirt's and slacks' prototypes according to each body type. Based on factor analysis of the measured data, seven key factors are grouped. And four different body types are classified based on the cluster analysis using factor marks. Type 1 refers to those who are tall in stature and balanced. This body type is characterized by trapezoid body shape when looked from the front, and slim the abdomen, bulge the belly and flat the buttocks when looked from the side. Type 2 refers to short and an obese body shapes, with trapezoid front and bulge abdomen and belly and flat the buttocks. Type 3 refers to those who are of medium height and long-legged body shapes, with rectangular front, protruding belly and buttocks. Type 4 refers to obese body shapes, with rectangular front, protruding abdomen and belly, flat the buttocks. 9 items are available to judge Plus-sized women's low body types and the hit ratio is 93.5%.
A Study on the SCM Activities Depending on General Characteristics in Fashion Enterprise -Focused on the Supply Chain of Apparel Manufacturers-
Hong, In-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 18~33
The purposes of this study were to investigate the difference of the SCM activities in the general characteristics of fashion enterprises and to inquire out the general characteristics affecting the introduction of SCM. The characteristics of apparel manufactures were also compared through the cluster analysis of the SCM activity levels of apparel manufactures. Through questionnaire survey, a total af 214 data - 123 from 64 apparel manufacturers, 46 from 40 fabric suppliers and 45 from 4 retailers - were used for analysis. The analysis on the relation between the SCM activity levels and the general characteristics of fashion enterprises showed that the SCM activities were affected by product assortment pattern and SCM introduction level for fabric suppliers, production method, product assortment pattern, business type and SCM introduction level for apparel manufacturers, and SCM introduction level for retailers. The cluster characteristics related to the SCM activity levels of apparel manufacturers showed that the clusters with higher level were tending to doing business internationally and trying to manufacture in a small lot in variety. The higher level clusters also revealed relatively low in the occupation ratio of fashion goods and high in quick response ratio compared to the lower level clusters.
A Study on Consumers Home Fashion Buying Behavior and Preferences Based on Housing Size
Kim, Chil-Soon ; Park, Su-Youn ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 34~46
The purpose of this study was to research buying behavior and home fashion preferences based on housing size. The target consumers were Korean women, aged 20~40s who reside in the Seoul & Kyunggido areas. We distributed questionnaires to 650 women. However, only 600 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. Data analyses were conducted with SPSS program on the frequency, Chi-square test, cluster analysis, t-test and ANOVA. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The considering factors for purchasing such as brand, trends coordinating existing furnishings with new products and functionality were significantly associated with housing size. The buyers who reside in bigger size homes. over 40 pyung place higher value on brand name, trends. or coordinating existing furnishing with new products than residents in smaller units. However, women who live in smaller units place higher value on functionality when purchasing home fashion products. Considering factors such as brand, trend, and materials were also significantly associated with segmented age group; 40~49 age group considered brand, trend, and materials more than 20~29 age group. The group who are highly interested in home fashion considered design/color, rand, coordination, and functionality than the group who are low interested in home fashion. 2. Residents in over 40 pyung homes buy home fashion products at department stores, while residents in less than 39 pyung homes buy them at discounted store. 3. Respondents preferred solid colors more than patterns. However, they favored character pattern for textile bedding products for their children. 4. there is also a statistical difference in preferences for types of window treatments between large ad small housing sizes. Residents living in over 40 pyung preferred tie-back/cottage curtain, while residents living in less than 29 pyung preferred Roman shade style.
A Study on the Knit Pattern Considering the Characteristics of Rib Stitch(2) -Focused on
Kim, Soo-Ah ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 47~59
This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the
rib stitch and
rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool,
, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of
rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of
rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of
rib stitch. In conclusion, because
rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than
rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.
A Study on the Body Measurements of Early Adolescent Boys
Kim, Kyung-A ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 60~74
The purpose of this study was to systematize accurate data about the body measurements of early adolescent boys, as there was a broad individual variance between their bodies, and it's additionally attempted to identify the unique physical characteristics of different age groups. The subjects in this study were boys who were at the ages of 10 to 14 in the capital area. Their bodies were measured by anthropometric and photographic method, and data on 549 boys were analyzed. The total of 100 items(47 anthropometric items, 10 indexed items and 43 photographic items) were selected to be measured. For data analysis were performed descriptive statistics, ANOVA and Duncan test using SPSS Ver. 10. The results of the study are as follows. According to the result of comparing the body measurements of early adolescent boys, a period of active growth and a period of slow growth were repeated alternately as they aged and the age of active growth tended to get younger.
The Study on Image Perception and Preference of Fashionable Clothing of Schoolchildren
Lee, Jung-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 75~86
The objectives of this study were to investigate differences between image perceptions according to gender, place of residence, and fashion trend; and to examine how the image of preferred clothing was evaluated in each given area of fashion trend. Subjects were 386 schoolchildren (boys:196, girls:190) in Seoul, Daejeon, and Jinju, Korea. Based on a quasi-experiment study, a survey was conducted with a questionnaire providing different clothing images of fashion trend. Stimuli were 5 colored photo pictures of a girl wearing clothing according to fashion trend. The clothing used in the study met requirements of 2004 S/S trend of children's clothing. The high valued clothing sold in three target places were used. There was a significant difference in image perceptions between two sexes. Girls showed more positive attitude in image perceptions toward fashionable clothing in most areas than boys. Children from smaller towns evaluated the model clothing more fashionable. Schoolchildren preferred sporty clothing to the other fashionable clothing. In view of trend, romantic clothing normally viewed less dynamic were evaluated preferable clothing when children viewed the clothing active. Sports-wears were considered fashionable when they viewed the clothing neat and vigorous.
Fashion Design Applying Jazz Image
Lee, Un-Joo ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 87~101
Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.
The Excavated Costume of Jeon-Ui Lee Unearthed in Ue-Ryoung
Park, Fil-Soon ; Park, Yoon-Mee ; Jeong, Bok-Nam ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 102~120
Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.
Fashion Jewerly Consumers' Purchasing Behavior: Store Retailing and Non-Store Retailing
Lee, Seung-Hee ; Boo, Jung-Wha ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 121~132
The purposes of this study were to examine fashion jewelry consumers' purchasing behavior, and to compare store retailing consumers and non-store retailing consumers. Subjects were 614 women in age from 20 to 55 years old in Seoul for this study. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, 2-test, and t-test were used. As the results, 52.9% of respondents had purchased fashion jewelry products via store retailing such as department store, road shop, discount store, while 47.1% of respondents had purchased them through non-store retailing such as internet shopping mall, TV home shopping, and catalog shopping. It revealed that conspicuous consumption had 2 factors: public-self consciousness and luxury product preference. Fashion leader consisted of 3 factors: fashion innovation, fashion interest, and fashion opinion leader. Brand royalty encompassed brand recognition, brand preference, and brand trust. Generally, store retailing consumers had more conspicuous consumption, higher fashion leadership, and stronger brand royalty than non-store retailing consumers. Based on these results, marketing strategies would be suggested for fashion jewelry markets.
Orientalism in Modern Men's Skirt Fashion
Lee, Young-Min ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 133~149
Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.
The Quality of the Information Sharing between the Korean Apparel Manufatures and the Contractors
Hur, Jhee-Hye ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 150~160
As apparel manufacturers have increased their outsourcing garment making to cope with the rapid changing market, the information sharing has been the most important factor for the Korean apparel industry. The purpose of this research was to study the present state and the needs of the information sharing between the apparel manufacturers and the contractors; and the relationship between the product property (basic/fashion product) and the information sharing property. A total of 86 Korean apparel manufacturers were surveyed for the study. The results are: 1) the information sharing level on manufacturing capacity, manufacturing processing condition, and product quality were a bit higher than other surveyed information, but the level on inventories and sales were lower than others. in addition, the information sharing needs by online system of manufacturing capacity, manufacturing processing condition, and product quality were greater than other information; 2) In the case of fashion product, the information sharing needs of product quality by online system were much greater than in the case of basic product. This study is expected to help apparel manufacturers to construct their information sharing system which is apt for their product property and needs.
Shopping Orientation and Knitwear Purchasing Behavior of Female College Students in the U.S.
Lee, Ok-Hee ; Rucker, Margaret ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 161~173
The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between shopping orientations and Knit wear Buying Behavior of female college students in the U.S. age 18 to 33. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior, including sources of information about knitwear, evaluative criteria of knit wear product, attributes f store preference for knitwear, and shopping orientation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students were classified into five subdivisions by cluster analysis; cautious shopping group, recreational shopping group, self-confident shopping group, shopping indifferent group, price conscious shopping group. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in observation of others' and famous people's clothing, fashion shows, fashion articles in magazines, newspapers, and on the Internet, and shop displays. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in fashionable, brand and store name, appropriate for different occasion, prestige. The store attributes of knitwear were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in product knowledge of sales personnel, store atmosphere, display of merchandise, layaway payment plan, price level, ease of parking and access, and new fashion.
The Effect of Marketing Mix on the Formatoin of Fashion Brand Equity
Choi, Sun-Hyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 1, 2005, Pages 174~187
Recently the issue of brand equity has emerged as one of the most critical areas for fashion marketing management. Despite strong interest in the subject, there is little evidence of how brand equity is created by marketing mix elements and what their effects are. This study explores the influences of marketing mix elements on the brand equity of apparel products. Based on a literature review, a conceptual model for the quality, design, price, advertisements, and brand leadership on consumer's view on brand equity through brand identification and brand values was formulated and tested. For comparative purposes, two basic casual brands are tested, one is Polo and the other is Giodano. The subjects were Korean .50 college women living in Seoul and Daejeon. Results showed that brand equity of casual brand is affected by quality, brand leadership, design, price, advertisements. Therefore marketers should develop the core element to position its brand strategy to create competitive advantages.