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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
A Study on Knitting Method of Seamless Knitted Garment Knitting Machine -Focused on Whole Garment Knitting Machine-
Ki Hee-Sook ; Kim Young-Joo ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 189~199
The purposes of this study are to see a manufacturing process on knit by comparison, and to present whole garment knitting machine different from the traditional method of the production by using the whole garment system. The characteristics of each stage were examined through SDS-one, Shimaseiki Design CAD System and the whole garment knitting machine. The whole garment knitting machine as a method of composing a suit of knitting product is a way of making creative knitting fashion, which also can be used as a basic material for the further study on the whole garment knitting machine. Eventually, it is expected that this machine can satisfy the knit wearers' various needs by showing more useful method to knit designers.
Analysis on the Shape Classification of the Head of Korean Female Children for the Headwear Sizing System
Kim Son-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 200~208
This study was aimed to provide the measurement data and shape classification of the head of the Korean female children for the headwear sizing systems. Four hundred nineteen female children, aged nine to twelve years, participated for this study. The 19 regions on the head and height, weight of the subjects were directly measured by the expert experimenters. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, GLM analysis and Tukey HSD test were performed using these data. Through factor analysis, five factors were extracted upon factor scores and those factors comprised
for the total variances. Three clusters as their head shape were categorized using fiver factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 was characterized by the widest head width, Bitragion arc, and shortest head length, and medium height and weight. Type 2 had the longest head length and the widest side head width and the highest head circumference, and highest height and largest weight. Type 3 was characterized by the medium head length, smallest head circumstance, narrowest head width and side head width, and smallest height and weight.
The Effects of the Internet Shopping Values on Internet Shopping Behavior of Apparel Products -Focused on the Shopping Mall Attributes and Perceived Risks-
Cho Oh-Soon ; Ryou Eun-Jeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 209~220
The purposes of this study were to determine the components of internet shopping value and to identify how those influence on the consumers' internet shopping behavior of apparel products. The data were collected via a self-administered questionnaire from 221 male and female students who have the shopping experiences for apparel products on the internet shopping malls, living in Kyongnam province. Using SPSS 12.0 package,
, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test and stepwise multiple regression analysis were performed. The results could be summarized as follows; 1) According to the internet shopping values, college student consumers were classified into three groups, utilitarian value shoppers, hedonic value shoppers and low interest shoppers. 2) As a results of the ANOVA among the three groups, significant differences were found in the internet shopping mall attributes and perceived risks. 3) Internet shopping values-hedonic and utilitarian shopping values, internet shopping mall attributes and perceived risks had an significant effect on the attitude and purchasing intention of the internet shopping mall.
A Study on Fashion Style Expressed in Women Magazine Advertisements
Kim Sae Bom ; Lee Eun Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 221~239
The purpose of this study was to analyse the fashion style expressed in women magazine advertisements. The method of this study was used content analysis with 692 samples in women magazines ('Woman Sense', 'Yeosung Dong-A', and 'Jubu Saeng-hwal') which were issued in March, June, September, and December from 1998 to 2002. The data analysis were divided nine elements: 1. silhouette, 2. color, 3. pattern, 4. length of skirt & slacks, 5. adjustment, 6. breadth of collar lapel, 7. shoes, 8. make-up, 9. hair style. The results of this study were as follows: 1. silhouette : The four seasons were expressed in square silhouette. 2. Color : The spring, summer, and winter seasons were expressed in white color, while the fall season was expressed in neutral color. 3. Pattern : The four seasons were expressed in plain pattern. 4. Length of skirt & slacks : The four seasons were expressed in various length. 5. Adjustment : The four seasons were expressed in single button. 6. Breadth of collar lapel : The spring, summer, and winter seasons were expressed in small breadth, while the fall season was expressed in middle breadth. 7. Shoes : The four seasons were expressed in high-heeled shoes. 8. Make-up : The four seasons were expressed in light tone. 9. Hair style : The four seasons were expressed in up-style.
A Study on Cochineal Dyeing by Various Mordants and pH Conditions I -Treatment on Cotton Fabric-
Kim Kyung-Sun ; Jeon Dong-Won ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Choi In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 240~247
In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the
, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the
moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the
moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.
A Study on Cochineal Dyeing by Various Mordants and pH Conditions II -Treatment on Wool Fabric-
Kim Kyung-Sun ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Jeon Dong-Won ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 248~254
In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.
The Physical Characteristics of Early Adolescent Girls
Jeong Hwa-Yeon ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 255~268
The purpose of this study was to identify the physical characteristics of early adolescent girls by age. A total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, t-test, Duncan test and frequency analysis. The results of this study are as follows. Most items related to height and length increased significantly at the age of
and the growth slowed down at the age of
. As for items related to circumference, the growth rate was high at the age of
, and gradually slowed down afterward. Out of circumference items, hip circumference showed the highest growth rate. As for items related to thickness and width, thickness-related items grew quickly at the age of
, and among which bust thickness showed the highest growth rate. As for drop, the difference between hip circumference and waist circumference was most remarkable, but the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference was not large. The largest number of subjects had their menarche during the age of
and, after menarche, their horizontal growth became active.
A Study on Okso, Keun Seob's Hakchangeui(학창의)-Examining Data about Hakchangeui Written in
Lee Min-Joo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 269~279
Okso, Keun Seob(
) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(노론) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His
remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(잡의), Euijedogi(의제도기), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(사대부), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in
, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in
reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to playas a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(화양건) was used in this Hakchangeui.
The Effects of Self-Esteem and Body Cathexis on the Acceptance of Fashion Trends
Ryoo Sook-Hee ; Shin Soo-Ray ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 280~288
The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of self-esteem and the body cathexis on consumers' attitude in acceptance of fashion trends. The subjects were 460 women from in their 20's to 60's living in Daegu area. The scale for self-esteem and the body cathexis were used and self-report questionnaires were applied to measure the acceptance of fashion trends. The data were analysed by frequency, mean, factor analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test using SPSS-package. The results were as follows. First, the results of analysing the factor of the response of acceptance of fashion trends identified three attitudes; 'active to fashion trends', 'passive to fashion trends' and 'unconcern to fashion trends'. Secondly, there were significant differences in the acceptance of fashion trends in accordance with an age. Thirdly, there were significant differences in the acceptance of fashion trends and clothing shopping orientation according to one's self-esteem and the body cathexis. It appeared that higher the level of self-esteem and the body cathexis predicts an 'active to fashion trend' attitude in acceptance of fashion trends.
Research on Sensibility Image of Pattern Applying the Formative Elements of a Traditional Jokakbo -The Surface Composition and Colors-
Eun Young-Ja ; Choi Yoon-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 289~299
Through the formative analysis of the traditional jokakbo, we have composed surface composition that was made by a perfect square, triangle, a weather vane type, vertical type, cintamani type, and a mixed rectangular. And we have composed 18 kinds of motif stimulants that was made by vivid tone, pale tone, and so on, and finally analyzed sensibility image, preference rate of them. The cause of composition for the sensibility image of stimulant was composed by the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, rigid-flexibility characteristics, and modern characteristics. And from these things, the cause of simplicity characteristics and the cause of interesting characteristics were revealed as important dimensional factors of sensibility image. The sensibility image of motif was revealed as a simple image of perfect square, a feminine image of cintamani type, a modern image of mixed rectangular. And black-white colored mixed rectangular and chromatic colored cintamani type were also revealed as an interesting image. The preference rate of motif is related with the cause of interesting characteristics and simplicity characteristics, it also has been revealed to prefer the pale tone than others. And it also has been revealed that achromatic colored mixed rectangular, cintamani type of vivid tone, perfect square and rectangular of pale tone were mostly preferred.
A Study on Hybrid Trend upon Alexander McQueen's Work
Lee Hyo-Jin ; Kim Ju-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 300~313
Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.
Study on the Protective Clothing -Thermal Characteristics of the Protective Clothing Exposed to the Radiation Heat-
Jung Eun-Joo ; Choi In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 314~317
This study shows the thermal characteristics of the protective clothing exposed to the radiation heat. The surface temperature of the protective clothing exposed to the radiation with the passage of time sharply increased as the exposed-distance became closer. Also as the radiant heat flux increased, the surface temperature is higher and the time reaching steady state in sharply shorter. As the exposed-distance become more distant, the surface temperature of the protective clothing decreased and difference of temperature between the front side and the back side of the clothing decreased as well. Besides, the radiant heat flux increased, the safety exposed-distance increased. Therefore it is necessary that the worker have to work keeping a fixed safe distance from the radiant heat source.
A Study on the Meaning of the Breast Exposure in Women's Fashion Design
Geum Key-Sook ; Nam Hoo-Nam ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 2, 2005, Pages 318~328
Our interest in human body is more and more increasing. Not only academic and art communities but also other social communities show a keen interest in the human body. Especially, the breast of women's body parts may be comparable to men's penis because it is protruded. The breast which sexually distinguishes women from men becomes an important topic in the fashion design community. Therefore, such designs which emphasize the breast are being introduced in a natural way. This paper aims at examining the reason and symbolism for the exposure of breast and analyzing the fashion design that breast is exposed. This study will help us grasp the meaning which the design has. The exposure's scope of breast in the design includes the partial exposure, total exposure and the concealment of breast. But these all have their effects in each scope. For this paper, some general things were investigated. They are as follows: the phases of breast exposure in the fashion design, the exposure of breast expressed in the works of fine art, and the alteration of breast-exposing phenomenon shown in apparels. Then, each type of breast-exposing design shown in the women's fashion was analyzed from the middle of 1980s' when the phenomenon of breast exposure occurred to the year 2004. These could be divided into 4 types. They include a suggestive type, an exaggerative type, an open type and a reproductive type. As the result of analysis of 4 types, such meanings of design as an emphasis of femininity, an expression of liberty, a symbol of maternity and a commercialization of sex could be analogized.