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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
Somatotype Classification of Early Adolescent Girls
Jeong Hwa-Yeon ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 329~343
This study purposed to classify the somatotype of early adolescent girls based on the physical characteristics. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. According to the results of classifying somatotype based of the factor analysis, 176 students (
) were type 1, which is short and thin. In students of this type, the breast did not develop, the belly was stuck out as in the body shape of latter childhood, and the contour of the body had not been formed yet. This somatotype was named Type A. Another 176 students (
) were type 2, which is tall and somewhat thin. In students of this type, the breast and the hip developed well, so the contour of the body was quite clear. This somatotype was named Type X. Lastly, 177 students (
) were type 3, which is fattest among the three types. In students of this type, the breast developed but the waist and the hip were not voluminous. This somatotype was named Type H.
Classification and Characteristics of the Body Shape for Early Adolescent Boys
Kim Kyung-A ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 344~360
The purpose of the study is to identify the physical characteristics of early adolescent boys, to classify body shapes by physical characteristic. The subjects were 549 boys in the capital area. Their body shapes were identified and classified based on 47 anthropometric measurements, 43 photographic measurements and 10 indexed measurements. For data analysis were performed descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan test using SPSS Ver. 10. According to the result of extracting factors indicating the characteristics of body shape, horizontal size, vertical length, lateral posture, the lateral shape of the abdomen and the hip, the shape of the back protrusion, the front shape of the trunk and was the shape of the shoulders. According to the result of classifying body shapes, four types of shape - T(Tall) type, P(Petite) type, L(Large) type and R(Regular) type were identified. The results of this study are expected to contribute to planning sizes according to the type of body shape and improving the fitness of ready-made clothes in apparel and school uniform manufacturers.
A Study on Expression of Hybrid Fashion and Make-up in Multiculturalism in Fashion
Kim Gyung-Ran ; Yang Chieu-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 361~379
The purpose of this study was to find how hybrid fashion and make-up responses to multiculturalism condition and how expression of hybrid. Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance. In accordance with this current of the times, this study observed the hybrid found in the multiculturalism of the 21th century. The expression of hybrid in multiculturalism of contemporary fashion and make up combination of difference. Second, the society development and a generalized knowledge of multiculturalism and hybrid and history of make up. Third, characteristic of fashion about multiculturalism and characteristic of fashion about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid. Fourth, characteristic of make up about multiculturalism and characteristic of make up about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid take measures too.
Effect of Chitosan and Mordant Treatments on the Color Change of Cotton and Nylon Fabrics Dyed using Rhusjara ica
Hong Shin-Jee ; Jeon Dong-Won ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Choi In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 380~390
The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.
A Study on the Aesthetic Value of the Clothes of the Stripe Pattern in a Historical Point of View - From Medieval Age to the Late Nineteenth Century -
Park Sun-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 391~405
This study puts emphasis on showing the change of Stripe Pattern, which has been popular for a long period of time in many societies, with change in time, assessing its value as an art. During medieval period, Strife Pattern had a strong negative meaning as a sign of disgrace or inferiority, or had been used as discrimination against a mental or a sinner, who had been rejected or banished from the society. Through French Revolution, Stripe Pattern has become a symbol of liberty and equality, furthermore, the notion of society as well as countries. This event had positively affected on reevaluating its image, from inferior, negative to significant, artistic. Eventually the variety of aesthetic values of Stripe Pattern led its way to the variation of its functional value expanding its use other than fashion industry. It is anticipated that our fashion industry will flourish in creating new, creative design by understanding design and appreciating their aesthetic values with their applications to human sensibility.
Evaluation of Thermal Physiological Responses and Comfort in Vitamin E Fabric
Im Soon ; Chung Myung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 406~413
This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, temperature and relative humidity of microclimate, and subjective sensation, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensation to estimate physiological responses of the human body and its comfortable feeling to the vitamin E fabric. Experiments were performed on the five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below
and 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for experiments: unfinished sports clothes, with the same form and the same size, of short-sleeved knit shirt and long trousers made with
cotton, and finished sports clothes printed with the vitamin E solution of the level of
. Exercises of walking (about 105 steps/minute) with the exercise intensity of 2.5 were performed for 20 minutes using treadmill. In result, the study showed significant difference (p<0.01) in average skin temperature between unfinished and finished sport clothes, and represented higher value with having unfinished sport clothes in wear than with finished one. The study also showed significant difference (p<0.01) in heart rate only during the period of exercise, and represented higher value generally with unfinished sport clothes than with finished one. There were significant differences not only in temperature of microclimate (p<0.01) but also in humidity of microclimate (p<0.05) between two sport clothes. As for the evaluation of subjective sensation, the study showed significant difference (p<0.05) in thermal sensation between the two kinds of sport clothes, significant difference in wet sensation only during the period of exercise, and significant difference (p<0.05) in comfort sensation only during the period of recovery.
A Study on the Slacks Pattern of Lower Body for the Male University Student of Sports Majors
Kim Son-Hee ; Lee Hyun-Min ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 414~424
This study was aimed to alter slacks pattern of ready-to-wear clothing appropriate for the lower body types of male university students of sports majors. The subjects used for this study were 151 male sports majors between
years of age. Characteristics of the respondents were ascertained by means of questionnaires and an evaluation of a total of 36 lower body features. The characteristics of the lower body were depended on sport activities. In particular, bodybuilding students demonstrated a somatotype with an increased circumference, depth, and width of the thigh and lower body. The somatotypes were classified into 3 types by means of a cluster analysis employing 5 factors. The bodybuilding was selected for alter slacks pattern because of the grand variation of lower body types. A lining evaluation of slacks pattern was made for the male sports collegians in bodybuilding-major. The results of evaluation shows that the research pattern was better than a ready-made slacks pattern. Specially the hip and thigh parts were more comfortable to sports major students.
Types of Expression and Aesthetic Characteristics of On-line Game Characters' Body and Costume
Kim Mi-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 425~438
This study is to examine the types of expression and aesthetic characteristics of on-line game characters by analyzing those game characters' body and their costume that appear in various domestic on-line game sites. It is shown in this study that types of the human bodies and costume expressed through the game characters are grouped into five categories such as exposure and tightness, enlargement and exaggeration, curtailment and simplification, gender stereotype and unification. Furthermore, there are four typical aesthetic characteristics resulting from those types of expressions; First, 'grotesque' is expressed in the form of extreme enlargement and exaggeration, extreme exposure and concealment, combined images among human, animal or machine, or monstrous devilish images. Second, in an effort to express 'eroticism', bodies are directly exposed, see-through costumes are used in order to emphasize the body lines or very tight designs are used. Third, 'futuristic' characteristics are shown through geometrical shape and silhouette, machine-like details, strong artificial colors or glossy hi-tech material. Lastly, 'pastiche' is expressed with reconciliation of variety of costumes of game characters. Various opposite or heterogeneous styles are combined or harmonized each other to show pastiche, of which examples are male and female, superior culture and inferior one, rich and poor, oriental and western, human and machine, human and nature or past and future, etc.
A Study on the Variation of the Body Surface according to Arm-movements for Women (Age group between 18 and 24)
Jang Jeong-ah ; Kim Ju-ae ; Kim Na-young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 439~451
This study was to provide the fundamental data for the ease necessary to design clothes by investigating the variation of the upper body surface with the method of surgical tape. The subject were 8 young women in the standard somatotype. In the form of body surface according to arm movements, the shape of armscye circumference became gentle from the sunken form for the standing posture; scye depth became lower; lateral shoulder moved and rose toward the front center as the angle of arm movement became larger; scye depth is greatest in the standing. The items of horizontal ware largest in the standing posture except for front neck base circumference and front interscye breadth for side
movement. In the items of vertical, while most of the front items increased but back ones generally decreased for all movement compared to the standing. After comparing differences in actual values between the form of body surface in the standing posture and the direct measurement, the following ease were suggested considering minimum measures to accommodate daily movements. Bust circumference/2 = 3cm; waist circumference/2 = 1.5cm; front interscye breadth/2 = 0.6cm; back interscye breadth/2 = 0.6cm; and underarm depth = 1.5cm
The Effect of Internal Marketing on Apparal Firms' Performance
Row Young ; Park Jae-Ok ; Lee Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 452~468
The major aim of this study was to find factors that effectively improve the satisfaction of apparel firms' employees who are the internal customer and how these factors affect customer satisfaction. The subjects of the study was salespeople working at major women's apparel retail outlets and their customers located in Seoul. A data from 192 questionnaire were used for the final analysis. Descriptive statistics, factorial analysis, Cronbach's a, Person's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression were conducted. The results indicated that factors influenced by internal marketing were recruitmenteducation training, power endorsement, internal communication, CEO's management style and human resource management Regression analysis results indicated that recruitmenteducation training and power endorsement significantly influenced internal performance of the organization (employee's commitment to and satisfaction with the organization). Employee's commitment significantly influenced external performance of the organization, consumer satisfaction where as employees' satisfaction with the organization did not have significant effect.
Cultural Collage in Men's Fashion
Lee Min-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 469~480
The purpose of this study is to analyze the meaning and the value of the cultural collage expressed in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which cultural collage has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies in men's fashion were undertaken through the analysis of pictures. The cultural collage is defined as a phenomena of making creativity by combining cultures which have no relevance. In psychological and sociological aspects, the rise of the cultural collage is caused by multinational corporation, pluralization of identity, information society, consumer oriented production, consumer society and inundation of kitsch. On the basis of the characteristics and social backgrounds of cultural collage, the aesthetic values of men's fashion can be explained by pluralism de-generalization and relativity.
The Middle Age Women's Image Evaluation of Tailored Jacket according to the Body Type and the Degree of Satisfaction with the Body - Focused on Silhouette -
Park Jong-Hee ; Ryoo Sook-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 481~493
The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation of tailored jacket according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with the body of middle-aged women. The subjects used for this study were three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. We measured their bodies and asked them report to the questionnaire. The results are as follows. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation of tailored jacket according to the body type of middle-aged women. The women of the type I evaluated that X silhouette was the most fascinating, elegant, active, and tender, and the women of the type II, A silhouette. The women of the type III evaluated that H silhouette was the most fascinating, elegant, active, and tender, and the women of the type IV, H silhouette. There was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with the girth of the body, weight, and figure they evaluated X silhouette was more attractive, graceful, active, and soft.
Image and Altitude on the Alpha-Numeric Brand Name of Fashion Products
Park Hye-Won ; Ryou Eun-Jeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 494~502
The purposes of this study were to investigate the images on the alpha numeric brand name of fashion products, to identify the influences of clothing pursuit benefit on the brand name image and to determine the significant images on the attitude and purchasing intention. The data were collected via a self-administered questionnaire from 270 male and female students of undergraduate school in Kyongnam province during the March, 2004. Using SPSS 12.0 package, Cronbach's a, frequency analysis, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis were performed. The results could be summarized as follows: First, the image dimensions of alpha-numeric brand name were composed of natural, new, active, urban, impactive and interesting image. Clothing pursuit benefits were composed of the brand value, attractiveness, fashion, individuality and economic value pursuit, Second, Clothing pursuit benefits had an significant effect on the image preference of alpha-numeric brand name. Especially, individuality pursuit and attractiveness pursuit have influenced on the natural, new, active, urban images. Third, the new, active, impactive, natural images had significant effects on the attitude, purchasing intention and conformity of products.
A Study on the Social Symbolism of the Korean Dress - Centering around the Traditional Korean Folktale -
Kim Jin Goo ; Kim Ae-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 3, 2005, Pages 503~512
This study is to analyze the social symbolism of the dress described in the traditional Korean folktale focusing on the Chosen Dynasty. As references, An outline of the Korean oral literature: 82 volumes in total and written Korean narrative:7 volumes in total written by Kim Hyen Ryong were selected. As regards method of study, first, the social symbolism of the dress described in the traditional folktale has been extracted: afterwards, those were classified and summarized according to theme of a clothing, hairstyle, and belt, etc. And the social symbolism of the dress has been analyzed based on the theory of symbolism. As a result of the analysis, following conclusion has been obtained. First, political relationship and ideology represented through costumes. Second, old customary clothing behaviour represented. Third, sex and age symbolism were represented through protagonists. Fourth, married or unmarried symbolim represented.