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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
The Study on the History and Aesthetic Value of Muff
Kim Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 513~525
This article examines how the development process of muff has changed over history as well as considering value. This study is based on secondary sources such as books and fashion magazines. The imminent value of muff based on the results of this historical study can be summarized by its utility, its ornamentation, and its fashion value. First, muff is not only used to protect the hands or to keep them warm, but also as a substitute for the purse. Second, muff is an ornament decorated mainly with fur, using splendid colors, patterns, embroidery etc. Third, muff goes with other clothes as an ornament, and therefore, can be a means to express the attitude or behavior of many circumstances. Muff has vanished in casual wear and could meet by chance in a designers collection. However, the fashion value of muff brings it new attention making various creative fashion images by itself or with other clothes in the modern fashion trend. This study on the history and the aesthetic value of muff could stimulate the appreciation of the ornamentation aside from the clothes and serve to develop a new creative way in fashion design.
The Apparel Sizing System of Early Adolescent Gins - focusing on Upper Garments -
Suh Mi-A ; Jeong Hwa-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 526~539
Recently in the apparel industry, early adolescent girls are emerging as a new consumer group. In response to this, companies are developing clothes, cosmetics, underwear, etc. This study proposed a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls and presented reference measurements for body parts necessary in designing clothes. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, frequency analysis. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 7 sizes (140A-67, 145A-65, 145A-69, 150A-69, 150A-73, 155A-73, 155A-76): for Type X - 7 sizes (150x-72, 155x-72, 155x-77, 160x-77, 160x-80, 165x-77, 165x-80); and for Type H - 8 sizes (145H-74, 145H-82, 150H-78, 150H-82, 155H-82, 155H-86, 160H-86, 160H-88). Reference measurements suggested for upper garments were 9 items. The outcome of this study may be used as a basic material for adolescent apparel manufacturers to set their apparel sizing system and to supply their consumers, namely, adolescent girls with products fitting their somatotype.
Effect of Chitosan and Mordant Treatments on the Air-permeability, Fastness and Antimicrobial Effect of Colon and Nylon Fabrics Dyed using Rhusjara ica
Bong Shin-Jee ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Jeon Jee-Bae ; Jeon Dong-Won ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 540~549
It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1
2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.
A Visual Expression in Fashion Illustration using 2D Graphics
Choi Jung-Hwa ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 550~563
These days, photoshop and illustrator program can make a fashion illustration express easily and speedily, And they can also express a feeling and sensitivity of fashion illustrator by a tool and effect more than a manual work's media. The purpose of this study was to analyze a visual expression and characteristics in fashion illustration using 2D graphics. The method of this study was to analyze the fashion illustration books using 2D graphics. The visual expressions in fashion illustration using 2D graphics were as follows: Fashion illustration was based on a sketch or photography, and used a composition, drawing, mapping, painting, and manual work's re-touching. Characteristics of visual expression were as follows: First, a image composition was showed discontinuity and heterogeneity of image, new context and composition, and allowance of reality. Second, image transform was showed image overlap, body transformation by image recomposition, and deformed transformation by vector drawing. Third, hyper-real was showed precise touching, mechanical and neutral image, omission of background and focus of an object's characteristic and information. Fourth, following a realistic expression was showed simplified color, shading, dominant view point of fashion illustrator by omission, and daily lift style. Fifth, following a pictorial expression was showed non-fixed and irregular line, natural painting, and drawing and painting by conventional pictorial media. In conclusion, a photoshop and illustrator in 2D graphics will serve as a new media far fashion illustration with a manual work. And they will not only intensify a capacity as a commercial role of fashion illustration but also present a positive motive for students learning a fashion illustration.
A Study on Internet fashion Shopping Mall Environments and Purchase Intention by Shopping Orientation
Park Eun-Joo ; Ha Myung-Jin ; Kang Eun-Mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 564~575
The purposes of this study were to investigate the effects of shopping orientation on fashion shopping mall environments and purchase intention in internet fashion shopping mall. Data were obtained from 423 internet fashion shopping mall consumers who have experiences of buying products or visiting to internet fashion shopping mall in Busan, and were analyzed using by factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan test. The results showed shopping orientation perceived by Internet fashion shopping mall consumers were consisted five factors: Brand loyalty orientation, Economical orientation, Fashion orientation, Time saving orientation and Internet shopping orientation. Internet fashion shopping mall environments were composed of Visual information, Loading speed, Space composition, Product assortment, Checkout service, and Help desk. Consumers were classified by the shopping orientation into the Economical shopper, Fashion/brand shopper, and Convenience shopper. Economical shopper and Fashion/brand shopper rise in the estimation of Visual information, Product assortment, and Checkout service of shopping mall environment. Additionally, they were likely to have more intentions to purchase than the other types of shoppers in internet fashion shopping mall.
Effect of Chitosan Pretreatment on the Dyeing of Cotton and Silk Fabrics using Caesalpinia sappan - Effect of the Change in Chitosan Molecular Weight -
Choi In-Ryu ; Kim Jong-Jun ; Jeon Dong-Won ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 576~588
The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeing of cotton fiber and silk fiber was investigated. However, it has been difficult to evaluate the effect of the chitosan precisely, since the characterization of the molecular weight and effect of the degree of deacetylation were not elucidated for the application. The treatment effect may change diversely since the chitosan solution viscosity differs a lot based on the chitosan molecular weight. In this study, three chitosan specimens, varying in molecular weight, were applied for the fabric pretreatment in order to investigate the effect of chitosan molecular weight. Also, in order to maximize the efficacy of the chitosan, highly deacetylated chitosan specimens, meeting the deacetylation degree of
, were selected far the application. The air-permeability change according to the chitosan molecular weight change, influence on the mordanting, color change, and wash fastness change were investigated.
A Study on a Briefs Design Development of the Elderly Women(Part 1) - Focusing on the Elderly Women's Clothing Behavior in Briefs -
Lee Byo-Jin ; Kim Ju-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 589~603
This study was to develop the design of briefs for elderly women, aiming at understanding about the briefs that the elderly women currently wear and helping them draw happiness from wearing clothes. This study, based on the data analyzing the physique of old women that was investigated by the previous study, targeted the elderly women living in Jeonbuk area to conduct the research into their physique, brieff that they prefer. The results of this study were as follows. First, the majority of the elderly women wore size 100 as looking into the size of briefs that elderly women put on and their physique. For the most part, they had relatively thinner waist compared to the belly and buttock. Second, they were found to have preference for briefs with narrow rubber band, and medium sized design that fit their line of buttock, waist and crotch, for reasons of the activity and comfort. Third, they were found to be generally happy with the briefs that they are currently wearing. Fourth, the factors leading elderly women to buy briefs were analyzed to come from the 4 considerations of beautiful appearance/customer service, practicality, economical reason/size and the comfortable feeling when wearing them. Among such factors, the greatest demand among those factors was the comfortable feeling they can have when they wear briefs, followed by the economical reason/size, practicality, beautiful appearance/customer service.
A Study on the Consciousness of Fashion Industry Internship - Focused on Directors of fashion Industries -
Chung Sang-Gil ; Yu Ji-Hun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 604~621
The purpose of this study were to analyse the consciousness of persons in charge of fashion industries and to provide some basis data for development of the fashion internship program which could reduce differentiation between fashion colleges and fashion companies. Fifty national fashion brands had been randomly selected and question researches had done from August twenty-seventh to October thirtieth by the visit, mail, fax and e-mail etc. Date analyses were conducted with SPSS program on the frequency, t-test and ANOVA. The results were as follows. The companies selected interns by documents and interview, however, in the future they will prefer to accept interns by appraising some task. They preferred to apprentice for two months with some simple job and tasks. The companies wanted some prerequisite study such as major curriculum, human nature education, computer education. And each division wanted different curriculum. They wanted to be joined with industrial disaster insurance for intern and to be given allowance and credit. They also preferred reputation ratio of industry : college as
for intern reputation. There were some vitalizing method of fashion internship such as discriminated fashion internship program, government support for industries, universities and students, organization opening to connect industry and . university, mentor-system and credit system introducing, curriculum reforming in the university.
A Study on Scarf Expression Ways and fiend in Modem Fashion
Kim Eun-Sil ; Park Soon-Chun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 622~631
The purpose of this study is to know variety winding ways for scarf and to know the trends of scarf expression methods with seeing how to affect these ways on recent fashion. Investigating for scarf's concept and feature through theory records and looking for variety scarf expression ways were done for this study. And then The photo data of fashion magazines from s/s 2000 to s/s 2005, focusing on the divided scarf expressions, were analyzed. The frequencies of scarf expression are like this; decorating on the neck(
), decoration on the shoulders(
), decorating on the head(
), using for accessaries(
). Decorating on the necks is shown lasting ways. Also recently the methods breaking the established concepts - the mixing with two ways and the pratical using scarf' as a part of clothes - have a tendency to increase steady.
A Study on the Harmony according to Tone on Tone Coloration of Shirt and Necktie-On Warm and Cool Color-
Kang Kyung-Ja ; Lim Ji-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 632~645
The purpose of this research was to investigate the harmony evaluation and the effects used clues on harmony perception in terms of 32 tone on tone coloration of male shirt and necktie by male and female students when it comes to the coloration of male clothes shirts and necktie, after shirts matched necktie with warm and cool color, such as red, blue, and changed only value among three attributes of color. The results are as fellows. As to the red, light-dull, dull-dark was evaluated as harmonized coloration regardless of area-ratio by both male and female students. As to the blue, vivid-dark, light-dark, dull-dark was evaluated as harmonized coloration regardless of area-ratio by both male and femate students. Among 16 red tone on tone coloration stimuli, both female and male students evaluated the same 10 set as harmonized, but among 16 blue tone on tone coloration stimuli, female students evaluated 9 set, male students 12 set, so proved that male's range of harmony more extensive than that of female. It is significant difference between female and male on red dull shirt and vivid tie, blue dull shirt and dull tie combination. Females were positive to red dull shirt and vivid tie combination, males were negative, on the other hand, males were positive to blue dull shirt and dull tie combination, females were negative.
A Study on the Actual Conditions of Sizing System and Grading Method - Focusing on Brands Preferred by Adolescent -
Uh Mn-Kyung ; Suh Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 646~657
The purpose of this study was to analyze the problems of brands preferred by adolescents on sizing system and grading method and to provide a basic information for adolescent apparel manufacturers. Brands preffered by adolescents were obtained via a questionnaire from adolescents aged from 13 to 18 in Seoul and finally we selected upper 12 brands out of 20 brands they preffered. Also the graders of 12 brands were surveyed through direct interviews. The results indicated only 2 brands out of 12 brands(such as Adidas and Basic House) manufactured apparels for adolescents and most brands targeted customers in their early twenties as a main target market. As a results of researching the sizing system of 12 brands, women's apparel brands produced two sizes separately for upper and lower garments, unisex apparel brands produced garments in 4
8 sizes. For most of the brands, each size has a dimensional deviation on the same rate in all parts and 12 brands manufactured garments mainly with a dimensional deviation of 5cm in bust circumference and hip circumference.
A Study the Costume of Kublai Khan of the Kublai Khan on a Hunting Trip
Koh Bou-Ja ; Choi Kyu-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 4, 2005, Pages 658~670
Kublai Khan on a Hunting Trip were painted by Liu Guan-dao. This painting gives us very important information for understanding cosume of Yuan dynasty because of realistic description. We studied the name of costume of the king Shizu in this painting by using the way of comparison his costume with another paintings, the records and archaeological finds. This study showed that the costume of the king Shizu is judged to be Jisun, the traditional costume of Mongolian own meaning one colour. The name of each is the Yinshu warm hat, being making into the for of a kind of rodents, the Yinshu Jisun, the Red colour Jisun, being railed on the robe, and the Cloud boots cover. And we found that the decoration on the neck and sleeve tib of the Yinshu Jisun had been made by sable furs, and the decoration on the surface had been made by tails of them, going by the name of Rondes at that time. It also showed that the meaning of one colour of the Jisun is not only just appearing one colour on the one person but also being able to appear two set of one colour.