Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
The Apparel Sizing System of Early Adolescent Girls - Focusing on Lower Garments -
Jeong, Hwa-Yeon ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 671~685
The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.
Effects of the pH Change of Ash Solution and the Addition of Chitosan on the Caesalpinia sappan Dyeing in the Simultaneous Mordanting with the Addition of Ash Solution
Seo, Hee-Sung ; Jeon, Dong-Won ; Kim, Jong-Jun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 686~698
In this study, simultaneous mordanting method of dyeing in the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor mixed with the rice straw ash solution was employed. The dyeing effects were compared and reviewed according to the changes of dyeing mechanisms of pre-mordanting and simultaneous mordanting using ash solutions. By the direct addition of the ash solution, the pH of the liquor was abruptly changed. In the case of maintaining the pH value of the ash solution at about 7 or 8, compared to the pre-mordanting,
values increased and
values decreased. As a result, it is highly desirable in terms of selective emphasis on the reddish hue. The color development, differentiated from that obtainable by the dyeing of chitosan pre-treated fabric, was obtained due to the effect of the water soluble chitosan component on the dyeing mechanism.
A Study on Internship Program Development for Fashion Industry - Focused on Internship Activation Method of Fashion Industry and Government-
Yu, Ji-Hun ; Chung, Sang-Gil ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 699~711
This study was following one of 'A study on the consciousness of fashion industries internship'. The purposes of this study were to develop the internship program which focused on practical use to introduce and carry out for fashion industries, and secondly to propose some regime for government to activate fashion internship. Reference searching method and depth interviewing method were used for this study. The results were as follows : Fashion industry internship was grouped into two classes, 'on-the-job training'; educating students fields and 'talent hunting'; selecting good persons. Internship of industry-academic world was classified into two types; the one is 'credit type' which has curriculums between universities and industries and the other is 'non-credit type' which has not any credit and is operated by industry own system. This study provided the development courses of pragmatic program to perform internship systematically and it also provided the program models for guide line in fashion industries. Six grades such as ready step, introduction step, selection step, management step, evaluation step and feed-back step were proposed for the internship program development steps of fashion industries. A virtual organization, 'The Fashion Industry and Academy Association' was proposed as a policy for activating internship between universities, industries and government.
A Study on the Differences of Make-up Color Perception and Preference for the Development of Make-up Color System - Focused on a Female Model in Her Twenties -
Lee, Yon-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 712~728
This study consists of the stimuli of a female model in her twenties with twenty-three different facial make-up and survey on the differences of them for the development of make-up color system, based on the color-sense on the Korean's skin-tone and make-up color, to enforce the efficiency of beauty education. The result of this study and the suggestion is as followed. Firstly, Familiarity, Intelligence, Fitness, Charm, Tradition and Youth were came out as the result of factor analysis of make-up color image perception. Secondly, the stimulus of bare face was evaluated as more familiar and intelligent than the one with image make-up but perceived as unhealthy and not untraditional. Thirdly, skin tone had a big impact on both in lip color that's been applied in monotonous make-up and in image make-up that had been applied in contrastive make-up. Through these results, it is confirmed that the skin tone and make-up colors were influential variables in the research on facial image perception and preference against a female model in her 20s, and also the image test and preference can be changed according to the color contrasts. This research will be used as a basic tool for the development of make-up color applying system with image perception of statics of population variables and preference research. Also it aims to suggest the alternatives to perform the present collage make-up education for more systematic and organized education.
The Bans on Po in the Early Years of the Joseon Dynasty
Choi, Kyu-soon ; Koh, Bouja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 729~742
This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.
A Cross-Cultural Research of Clothing Purchasing Behavior of Korean and Japanese Female College Students
Lee, Ok-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 743~755
The Purpose of the study was to compare clothing shopping motives, fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of apparel products, store selection criteria, apparel buying places, and purchasing experience and country of origin place on imported clothing. The total of 371 consumers, college female students in Korea and Japan were sampled in both countries. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, t-test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. According to the comparative analysis of clothing purchasing behavior by factors, the result showed that both of them had more personal motives than social ones, regarding clothing purchasing motives. The clothing purchasing motives of students in Korea was higher than it of students in Japan. In the use of information sources, the students of both countries considered the information by consumer very importantly. Next to it, they highly regarded the information by marketer. The students in Korea used all informations more than the students in Japan. In the clothing selection, both of them considered criteria esthetics very importantly. The students in Korea considered 'brand name', 'versatility', and 'pleasing to others' as important, but the students in Japan considered 'price' and 'prestige' very importantly. For store selection criteria, Korean students considered 'duality guaranteed', 'service', and 'their and other's experience' as important but Japanese students regarded 'price' and 'variety of products' as important. A department store was the most highly preferred among clothing purchasing stores. After it, for Korean students, fashion mall, renowned brand stores, discount store were considered in order of preference, for Japan, speciality stores, fashion mall, renowned brand stores are preferred. Regarding imported clothing, Korean students, in order of preference, preferred the goods of America, Italy, France, England, etc. Japan students preferred the goods of America, Italy, China, France, etc.
A Study on the Linguistic Manifestation of 'Couple Look'
Han, Myung-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 756~762
The objective of this research is to examine psychological desires of college students who attempt to express themselves by wearing so called 'couple look' attire, which is a dressing habit that represents responses to various psychologies and the society. Moreover, the message that is trying to be conveyed to others by dressing as such and the question of whether that message is being conveyed, are subject to analysis by applying linguistic classification theory pertaining to this specific term. After a pre-examination based on a through interview conducted with 70 male and female college student, the main examination was based on question and answering methods on 450 male and female college students for data collection. The results were compared, reviewed and analyzed by applying Geoffrey Leech's meaning segmentation theory on linguistics, and was aimed at defining through research how meaning segmentation represented through languages can be applied in expressing one's self through clothing. The research results are as follows. 1. The psychological desires of wearing couple look attire are to express that they like and love each other, are dating, and to showcase their intimacy. 2. Clothing attire that are appropriate to express the couple look are T-shirts, jeans, pants, sweaters, mufflers, and accessories such as tennis shoes, hats, shoes, bags, rings, watches, ear-rings, etc. 3. Amongst people who have tried the couple look and those who have not, those who have said that they were willing to dress in couple look are mostly experienced in dressing so.
A Study on the Glamour Images Shown in Contemporary Fashion
Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 763~776
The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.
The Analysis of Mix & Match Visual Image of One-Point Graphic Appeared in T-shirt
Lee, Mi-Yoen ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 777~789
Mix & Match Visual Image, appearing in T-shirt one-point graphics, is a new visual image emerged as a result of several trends: development of cutting-edge machinery and computer programs, various needs of consumers, and an international trend of fusion concept. Thus, a concrete research of Mix & Match Visual Images is demanding. This paper studies one-point graphic, which appeared in the SamsungDesignNet, Interfashion Planning, and firstviewkorea, with a focus on apparel T-shirt of women's wear and casual wear from 2001 to 2004. The study shows that the most preferred independent visual image in Mix & Match Visual Images is a typography, and next is in the order of marks, symbols, geometric diagrams and abstract shapes, animals and plants, characters, materials, and collages. As Mix & Match of independent visual images was mainly combined typography with other independent visual images, we need to develop more Mix & Match Visual Images using various independent visual images's mix and match. Then, T-shirt will be one of the most representative items in Korean fashion trend that enable consumers to express their characters, escaping from the old-fashioned concept that T-shirt is just a T-shirt.
Gender Identity Expressed in Contemporary fashion
Lee, Youn-Hee ; Kim, Young-In ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 790~803
This study purposes to examine the background of the sexual concept and femininity, masculinity and gender role in the fields of social psychology and cultural anthropology and investigate the traditional gender role and the fashion's changes according to its role and the examples of the masculinity and femininity expressed in the contemporary fashion and finally analyze the gender identity expressed in fashion. The image changes which appeared in the modern fashion can be considered to be Masculine Look, Garconne Look, Feminine Look, Unisex Look, Androgynous Look and Genderless Look. The Garconne Look caused lots of changes to masculinity in the 1920's along with the changes of femininity. With the effect of feminism, many females wore clothing which had been thought as male's clothing by the appearance of Masculine Look. The major formation reason of Unisex Look can be regarded as the attitude change of the society toward to females and a meaning which doesn't want the differences of the distinction of gender to appear any longer as a characteristic external factor is implied. Androgynous Look which appeared in the 1980's means the integration of femininity and masculinity which is the same meaning with 'androgyny' in itself, Not denying its gender characteristics individually, the Androgynous Look means that women aim at the masculine image in men's clothing or men do at the feminine image in women's clothing. Genderless Look can be considered to a look with a notion to wear clothing freely even in fashion transcending the border of masculinity and femininity differentiated socially and culturally.
The Effect of Tone-on-Tone Coloration on the Visual Image of Traditional Korean Dress
Kang, Kyung-Ja ; Lim, Ji-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 804~818
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of tone-on-tone coloration on the visual images of traditional Korean dress. The materials in the experiment developed for this study were made up of various stimuli and the response scales for each stimulus. The stimuli were 48 color pictures with various combination of colors, in which the tones of jackets and skirts were manipulated by computer drawing. 24 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate each image. The subjects were 576 female students in Jinju City. This experiment was based on the
factorial designs: color (red, yellow and green), jacket tone (vivid, light, dull and dark) and skirt tone (vivid, light, dull and dark). The results of the study can be summarized as follows; Impression factor of the stimuli consisted of the 5 different dimensions - youthfullness and activity, attractiveness, gracefullness, visibility, and tenderness. The colors and the tone of jackets and skirts used in this experiment influenced 5 impression dimension by interaction of two valuables or working independently. Yellow and green with vivid or light tone had an effect on the formation of youth and activity image, and dark-light combination had an effect on the formation of attractiveness image. In case of green color, light tone of a jacket and vivid or dull tone of a skirt affected gracefulness, while yellow has no impact on visibility image regardless of skirt tone. Red and yellow with vivid or light tone were a factor to decide tenderness.
Female College Students' Buying Propensity of Clothing in Regard to Their Credit Card Use - Focusing on Impulse Buying, Fashion Consciousness and Conspicuous Consumption -
Chung, Woo-Young ; Chung, Sung-Ji ; Jang, Nam-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 819~832
The purpose of the study was to examine female college students' credit card usage characteristics and to investigate differences in buying propensity of clothing including impulse buying, consciousness, and conspicuous consumption among their buyer groups according to credit card use and personal characteristics. The questionnaires were administered to female college students in Seoul. The total of 588 questionnaires were collected and statistically analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Analysis of Variance (ANOVA), and Duncan's test. Female college students' arrear as well as credit card use have been increasing, and they tend to purchase low price clothing item using credit card. Buying propensity was classified into three factors. There were differences in buying propensity of clothing including impulse buying, fashion consciousness, and conspicuous consumption among buyer groups according to the credit card use and personal characteristics. Students who have credit card and arrear experience, are heavy credit user, and purchase more clothing showed high impulse buying propensity. Students who purchase more clothing monthly with credit card were more fashion-conscious. Students who have credit card, are heavy credit user, and purchase more clothing showed high conspicuous consumption propensity. Implications and future research directions were discussed.
A Study on the Characteristic of Logomark in Apparel Brand - Focused on Unisex Casual Brand -
Lee, Min-Gyung ; Rha, Soo-Im ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 833~843
The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic of logomark in unisex casual apparel brand. For this study, first 36 unisex casual apparel brands were selected from the Dictionary of Fashion Brand, second analyzed the common word showing in them. Third, the logomark of the unisex casual apparel brand were classified into two types according to the typeface character of the logomark, there were serif typeface, sans-serif typeface. Fourth, analyzed the relationship between the typeface image of logomark and brand concept. The results of the study were following : First, the common word that used the most frequently in brand concept were investigated and the order of common word was reasonable, comfort or natural, practical, modern, traditional and basic. Second, The unisex casual apparel brand used the most frequently the sans-serif typeface that represents the images of simple, modern and active sense in the typeface of logomark. Third, the unisex apparel brands used the most frequently English as brand name among the various languages. Fourth, the unisex casual apparel brands were lanuched mostly except several of them after 1990.
Main Fashion Brands Subject to Investigation by the Textile Firms for the Purpose of the Development of New Textiles
Lee, Eun-Oak ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 13, issue 5, 2005, Pages 844~855
The purpose of this paper is to examine which fashion brands are most likely to be investigated by Korean textile firms when they conduct their market trend analyses. The result shows that for the domestic sales, textile firms are most likely to collect and analyze information on the Cheil Textil Co. It is followed by Bean Pole, Chanel, Buberry, Tomboy. For the future domestic sales, textile firms prefers referring foreign fashion brands such as Burberry, ZARA, MaxMara, Missoni, and Chanel. Textile firms majoring exports prefers collecting and analyzing information on D&G followed by Chanel, Gucci, and DKNY. This preference, however, differs when considering exporting areas. Textile firms targeting the French market considers Gucci, followed by Ferragamo, Dior, Louisvuitton. Textile firms targeting the Italian market prefer Chanel, followed by Valentine, ZARA, Gucci, and Armani. Chanel is also top brand for the North American and Japanese markets, and followed by GAP, ZARA, OZOC, Missoni, Munshing Wear. The information content collected and analyzed by textile firms is style, pattern, color, and textile materials for textile firms targeting the domestic sales, while the exporting firms prefer information on color and textile materials proposed and presented by the fashion brands to which they prefer to make reference. The result of this study can be used to effectively and efficiently collect and analyze market information on fashion brands for textile firms majoring the domestic and foreign sales.