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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 14, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 14, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 14, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 14, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 14, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 14, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
An Ethnographic Study on CosPlay Group in Korea II - Analysis on CosPlay Culture in Korea and Japan -
Koh, Ae-Ran ; Shin, Mi-Ran ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 1~15
This study examines the social meaning of the CosPlay, the growth potential of CosPlay culture and its effect on the related industry through the perspectives and language of the youths who enjoy CosPlay, based on the ethnographic research. Also, this study presents a comparative description of Korea and Japan CosPlay culture by the ethnographic methodology whose purpose is to define relationship of cause and effect with phenomenon. For further step, this study plans to emphasize the need to link culture, clothes and related industry in order to create a cultural environment where diversity co-exists. CosPlay is the mania culture of Japan that emulated the Halloween party of the West and that developed the party into a unique form. In Korea, this practice was accepted for the first time among a handful of youths, starting from the 1990s, after which, it was introduced to the masses while holding CosPlay related events. While CosPlay is succeeded as an industry in Japan, CosPlay in Korea is considered childish play due to the Korean culture of considering cartoon as a childish and low class genre which is enjoyed by youths. CosPlay in Korea faces the following changes: aging of the members who comprised the CosPlay culture at the initial stage; population increase, centered on middle and high school students; interest of the government and the businesses that wish to produce economic wealth by organizing CosPlay events into events for youths; and changes in the environment that comprised the surrounding of the CosPlay culture. CosPlay is an honest play that demonstrates one's effort on the stage through performance. Moreover, most of the middle and high school students who comprise the CosPlay culture demonstrate similar characteristics as mania type of people when it came to the reason that they enjoy CosPlay. However, they did not consider CosPlay culture as an important aspect of their lives. Instead, most of them said that they participate to relieve stress. Thus, they have the potential to move onto another form of youth culture that may appear more attractive to them. To them, it is not the CosPlay culture that is important, but the fact that CosPlay provides a forum where they can freely engage in play.
A Study on the Restoration of Men's Headgear - Focusing on Bonnets -
Mun, Yun-Kyeong ; Kim, Kyung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 16~26
There have been in the history of western costume a few studies on men's headgear that cannot be the second to the women's headdress in terms of the gorgeousness and variety whereas the studies on women's hair styles and head dresses have frequently been carried out. Such varieties of the headgear in terms of forms and ornaments have still been found with various types. Thus, the study on the change in designs and details of headgear and the recreation of them may contribute to the utilization of the fashion in current vogue and the guidance of the creation for the new design. The aim of this study is to find such changes in the designs and the methods for the production of bonnets which have played important roles to emphasize external characteristics of costumes. As a result, this study may provide key materials for the development of new designs. As with the previous studies on the women's headdress and men's hat, the methodology of this study is to recreate bonnets based on the literature review and the portrait analysis. this study will cover the eras from the late fifteenth century to the mid sixteenth century when bonnets began to be produced. First, the characteristics of hair styles and bonnets are to be reviewed for the selection of bonnets to be recreated. Next step is to make a literature review on the form, materials, colors and ornaments used for bonnets. Finally, the patterns of bonnets is to be illustrated for the reproduction of selected bonnets. Materials to be used in this study for such a reproduction are velvets, silks and wools as presented in the literatures and ornaments to be used are similar to those captured in photos.
The Uniform Design Development Applied to an Industry-University Project -Focused on Korean Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation's Uniform-
Ahn, Min-Young ; Park, Jae-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ; Jin, Sung-Mo ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 27~39
The field of textiles and clothing is intimately involved in the business as a practical study. Many researchers consider how apply the theory to the business. Therefore, the study explores a process which builds an efficient relationship of industry-university focused on the example applied to an industry-university project of uniform design. The development process of the studyis composed of 4 levels: research and analysis, design development, production of samples, and manufacturing. In the process of research and analysis, it found out preference of design elements. These elements were reflected in design development to satisfy employee of wearing uniform. In the level of design development, 20 designs were deployed to use CAD system. Five deigns of them were produced to samples in 3 stages. Finally, to manufacturing was in charge of cooperative enterprises with clothing production equipment and university played a role of inspector. From theses research results, it has known that the field of uniform business is suitable for industry-university project because an enterprise with an order can get advice about clothing, a manufacturing company is able to complement a weaknessin the design, and university can have a chance applied the theory to the business. After this, the study will make a contribution to setting the direction of business to industry-university project.
A Study of the Patternmaking Methods for Mass Customization of the Men's Jacket
Oh, Seol-Young ; Chun, Jong-Suk ; Suh, Dong-Ae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 40~47
Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.
Middle & High School Students' Fitness of Sizing System and Satisfaction for Fall and Winter School Uniform
Lee, Hea-Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 48~63
The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school uniform focused on middle and high school boys' students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to 451 middle and high school boy students. 228 middle school boys' and 223 high school boys' data were analyzed using the SPSS Win. 10.0 program. The results of this study were as follows : 1. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of the group by the academic year in the jacket(color, textile, design, activity), shirt(color, design, activity), and pants(color, design, activity) in the case of middle school boys'. On the other hand, high school boys' evaluation of school uniform was significantly different in jacket(color), shirt(color, textile, design, activity), pants(design), and tie(color, textile, design) by the academic year. 2. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length of jacket and the breadth of sleeve in jacket, and the width of sleeve in blouse, the length of pants, and the width of pants were statistical differences in mean of the group in middle school boys' by the grade whereas there was no significant difference in high school students by the grade. 3. It was shown that more getting school uniform repaired after the point of purchase in both middle school and high school students was higher.
An Analysis of Formative Properties for the Hat and the Fashion Image in the Fashion Collection
Kang, Kyung-Ja ; Jeong, Hae-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 64~78
The purpose of this study is to set a characteristic design by analyzing formative properties for the hat and fashion image shown in fashion collections from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 in recent seven years. For the study, the 96 stimuli which found frequently in fashion collection were selected. The examines for the image evaluation were women college students majoring fashion design related fields and living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, and Gyeongsangnam-do. Data collection was performed in August 2004. As statistical methods for data analysis, internal consistency method, Factor Analysis, MANOVA were used. Based on the analysis of 31 pairs of adjectives for elucidating the total 96 stimuli which were devised by altering the types of garment, the relation between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of garment, five factors or attractiveness, gracefulness, concentration, cuteness, and hardness and softness were deduced. And it showed much difference in the types of garment, the relations between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of a garment.
A Study on Lower Body Somatotype for Briefs Design Development of the Elderly Women (Part 2) -Focused on the Women in the 60s and 70s in Jeonbuk-
Lee, Hyo-Jin ; Kim, Jin ; Kim, Ju-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 79~92
This study was purposed to present the basic data on the elderly women's somatotype to develop new briefs design with high body-adaptability. The subjects were 115 elderly women in the 60s and 70s and the factor analysis for 32 directly measured values of the body parts was carried out to sort out the constituent factors of the elderly women's bodies, and finally 4 factors were decided. The first factor was the thickness of the trunk and the degree of the obesity in the center of the width, thickness and circumference. The second factor is the perpendicular size of the body with high loads on the longitudinal direction of the body. The third factor was the leg shape. The last factor was the degree of the sagging hip. The elderly women's somatotype was classified into 3 types. The first type was the 'mean somatotype' with the biggest height and the longest lower half body of the three types. The second type was the 'obese somatotype' with the mean height and length of the lower body and with the largest circumference and width. The last type was the 'skinny somatotype' with the smallest values of all the items in the perpendicular size and the degree of the obesity.
The Wearing Condition, Satisfaction, and Design Evaluation of Dental Hygienists' Uniform
Hwang, Eun-Kyung ; Chung, Sung-Ji ; Jang, Nam-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 93~107
This study was designed from the concept that there is a need to establish the uniform for new emerging jobs in modern society. The purpose of the study was to examine dental hygienists'wearing condition, satisfaction, and design evaluation as to provide information for the development of dental hygienists' uniform. Three hundred fifteen dental hygienists completed questionnaires, and data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, multiple regression, ANOVA, and Duncan's test. The findings from the study were following. First, majority of dental hygienists currently wear shirts and pants two-piece uniform in white with no print. Second, dental hygienists' overall satisfaction level for their uniform was medium, and symbolic satisfaction as well as functional satisfaction did not reach the medium level while aesthetic satisfaction was above medium. The satisfaction levels were significant different between groups according to the education, clinic size, and work experience. Third, aesthetic satisfaction levels influenced on the job image as professional. Finally, designs consisting of two-piece style with shirts and pants and having Peter pan collar were recorded high evaluation. The findings can be implemented into dental hygienists' uniform design.
The Principles of Clothing Design and the Way of Design Approach in Lamanova
Lee, Keum Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 108~127
The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.
A Study of Movement Expression in Fashion Design and Its Design Development
Lee, Hyun-Jung ; Choi, Yoon-Mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 128~141
The purposes of this study are to consider characteristics of 'movement expression' that are not discovered in preceeding design studies in order to suggest 'movement expression' as a design formative principal and to make clothes which follows this idea. For the method of this study I used various literature about 'movement expression' as theoretical background and analyzed modern clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed by collecting magazines including foreign collections from 1989 to 2004 and searching the internet. The results obtained from this study is as follows. First, clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed removes monotony and tedium of clothing design, provides visual interest and satisfaction for clothing, and delivers designers' concept effectively by attracting a gaze quickly. And It is suggested a new division of 'movement expression' through analysis of the 'movement expression' expressed in clothing. It included the intentional movement by wearers, which is the 'movement expression' of broader meaning such as changes of form or position by a certain operation and changes of existence or function. This movement is not fixed and repeated but changes continuously. As a result of including the design expressing the intentional movement by wearers, one's own personality can be expressed more effectively. It is presented a design which has changeable movement expression continuously.
A Study on the Structural Characteristics of Spencer Jacket in Empire Style
Choi, Mi-Kyung ; Jo, Jin-Sook ; Choi, Jin-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 142~152
The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.
The Hip-Hop Clothing Design Applying Basquiat's Painting
Jang, Jung-Im ; Ahn, Min-Young ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 153~167
The hip-hop, which began with subculture of black people in Harlem, have changed variously in musical history after the times, which has become the culture phenomenon that had controlled dancing, fashion, and further consciousness of the new generation around the world in 1990s. Since Jean Patou first used Graffiti on clothing in 1920s, graffiti art has been expressed through various methods in many designers' works. The purpose of this study is to develop 'The Hip-Hop' clothing design which express major images in works of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a representative painter of Graffiti art in modern fashion. The concept is Jean Casual Look representing Young Street Culture. Breaking from existing strong legitimate hip-hop styles, clothing design expresses funny, healthy, comfortable, and active feelings. Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop program were used to design Hip-Hop clothing. With the result that the images on Basquiat's works applied to the hip-hop clothing design, it is suggested that the works of artists are worthy of practical use as factors of a high value-added design, which corresponds with collaboration appearing in modern design variously.
The Analysis of Korean Women's Structure of Feeling Represented in Make-Up Culture
Park, Kil-Soon ; Lee, Ju-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 1, 2006, Pages 168~176
In modern society, Korean women has been doing make-up developing as one of the beauty industry and it means make-up involves more meanings than in primitive period. Therefore we need to study its multi-dimensional connotation Which in the culture that means to understand the society and their way of thinking, and their social value. The structure of feeling represented in make-up in the 70's was Korean women's wish which were to be rich and westernized. In the 70's, Korean women moved to city, and meanwhile they work hard, they has been accepted western lifestyle and it proved on women's face. And in the 80's, Korea has been developed rapidly, and Korean government make people free. So Korean women's structure of feeling in the 80's were women's automation derived from political and economical development. And women expressed their structure of feeling as abundance in the society and women has to been stately. In the 90's Korean women were revolutionary and returned to nostalgia. In 2001, as the world faced new century, Korean women's life has been changed and the structure of feeling were pureness, simple and easiness.