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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 14, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 14, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 14, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 14, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 14, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 14, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
The Design of Slacks Pattern for Women in Early Twenties
Ryu, Sin-A ; Shin, Dong-Ok ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 699~714
The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of
was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was
, and rear center gradient was
, and front crotch extension was
, while rear crotch extension was
. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by
; the ease of waist girth is
; the ease of hip girth is
; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is
; rear crotch extension is
; front crotch extension is 3cm.
Job Satisfaction and Consumer Satisfaction of Beauty Shops - Compasing with Franchised and Non-franchised Beauty Shops -
Park, Eun-Joo ; Oh, Kyung-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 715~727
The purposes of this study are to investigate the job satisfaction, customer satisfaction and revisiting intention to beauty shops, and to examine the difference of the job satisfaction, customer satisfaction, and revisiting intention between franchised and non-franchised beauty shops. Data were obtained via questionnaire, which developed by results of pretest and previous studies, from workers and consumers of beauty shops in Busan. They were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test and regression. The results were as follows; First, the job satisfaction of beauty shops workers was composed of Adaptation, Operation and Instruction. For both of franchised and non-franchised beauty shops, the operation of beauty shops greaty influenced the job satisfaction of workers, and job satisfaction is not significantly different. Second, consumer satisfaction related to services of beauty shops is composed of three factors: Policy, Personal service, and Physical environment. Regardless of shop types, the policy of shop influenced the consumer satisfaction. Consumers' revisiting intentions to beauty shops are influenced by consumer satisfaction. Third, consumers in franchised beauty shops is less likely to be satisfied and to have the intentions to revisit than those of non-franchised beauty shops. Resulted provide some insights to develop strategies for franchised and non-franchised beauty shops. Limitations and future research directions have been discussed.
A Study on the Heroine's Costumes in the Movie Titled
YMCA Baseball Team
- By Focusing on the Costumes When the Country Opened Itself to the Outside World -
Kim, Min-Ji ; Byun, Mi-Yeon ; Lee, In-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 728~738
As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.
A Study on the Aesthetic Value of Glamour Look Expressed in Fashion
Yang, Sook-Hi ; Hahn, Soo-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 739~754
Glamour, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been recognized by its superficiality and ephemerality in recent postmodernist aesthetics. The purpose of this study is to provide a comprehensive literature of glamour and to contemplate glamour look, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in design studies, film studies and feminist theories, and to inquire aesthetic values of glamour look, which has been reflected in fashion. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. (1) Luxury is an expression of expensiveness, ostentatiousness which can be achieved only after putting in extensive an elaborate handworks. (2) Excess is an expression of bigness, scalelessness or extreme abundance. (3) Masquerade, that is a technique of identity which deal with clothing as a metaphor, is an expression of mysterious attractiveness and theatricality. (4) Appropriation is an expression by way of taking something from different time and space. (5) Sensuality is an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasures. Lastly, (6) decadence implies eroticized violence and demoralization.
The Esthetic Characteristics in Chanel's Haute Couture Design
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 755~765
This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.
The Effect of the Attitude toward the Advertising and the Attitude toward the Visual Merchandising on the Attitude toward the Brand - Focused on Sports Wear -
Kim, Min-Jung ; Shin, Su-Yun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 766~775
This study examined the correlation between the attitude toward the advertising(
) and the attitude toward the VMD(Visual Merchandising)(
), and the effect of
on the attitude toward the brand(
) in sports wear market. 287 questionnaires were distributed to 20's male and female, and 284 respondents were used for the analysis. To analyze the data, we used the structural equation model, LISREL 8.0. The key points of the result were as follows: 1)
influenced each other, and the effect of
was bigger than the effect of
. 2) Both
directly, and the effect of
was bigger than the effect of
could be changed by the mediating effect of
could not be changed by the mediating effect of
. 4) The indirect effect of
was bigger than the direct effect of
affected the purchase intention directly in a positive way.
Lifestyle Types and Clothing Consumption Orientations of Male and Female Adolescent Consumer
Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 776~789
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between lifestyle types, demographic variables, and clothing consumption orientations of male and female adolescents. The method of this study was a survey research by using questionnaires. Subjects were 393 high school students in Seoul. Four lifestyle types of adolescents were derived by cluster analysis: 'digital orientation type', 'material orientation type', 'positive enterprise type', and 'achievement orientation type'. The material oriented students spent high expense on clothes, had higher preference of imported products, had more sensuous consumption orientations, did more impulsive buying, and were more influenced by advertisements than other types of students. Digital oriented students had mothers with low educational background, low academic records, spent small expense on clothes, and had less sensuous consumption orientation. There were more male students than female students in positive enterprise type and the students of this type had upper middle academic records, had higher sensuous consumption orientation and did less impulsive buying. There were more female students than male students in achievement oriented type and this type had high academic records, had mothers with high educational background, and spent small expense on clothes. They had low level on most of the clothing consumption orientation and were especially less influenced by advertisement. This research confirms that the clothing consumption orientations are associated with the lifestyle of adolescent.
A Study on the Characteristics of Logos in Inner Wear Brand
Lee, Min-Gyung ; Rha, Soo-Im ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 790~801
This study analyzed features of elements that compose a logo of inner wear brands to get the following results: First, it was found that "elegance" was the most frequently used word to express the concept of inner wear brands to be followed by words like dignity, high-end and aristocratic, words emphasizing femininity, such as feminine, romantic and sexy, words emphasizing practicality, such as convenient, practical, modern, functional and reasonable, and words emphasizing hygiene, such as clean, healthy and hygienic. This suggests that consumers nowadays pursue image more than functional aspects in the shopping of inner wear and consumers' pursuit of such values is reflected in the concept of inner wear brands. Second, unlike logos for outerwear brands that generally used initials of brand name, word-type logos for inner wear brands used the full name of brands, thus suggesting that they put more emphasis on delivery of information rather than on the symbolic aspect. In case of combining characters with concrete objects, they were found generally to use objects that give an soft, elegant and feminine image, such as flowers, woman's head and ribbons. Third, colors in the series of pink and red seemed to be used to convey the concept of inner wear brands that pursue such images as romanticism, femininity, elegance and sensibility, while colors in the series of blue, black and grey for such concepts as functionality, practicality, simplicity, health, hygiene and refinement. With reference to typeface used in the design of logos, unlike outerwear brands of which 83% use sans serif typeface for logos, relatively high percentage of inner wear was found to use typefaces of serif series to stress feminine flexibility and delicacy and give the image of elegance and classical tenderness. With reference to language used in logo naming for inner wear brands, 33 brands were found to use English and only three brands used Korean among the 36 brands surveyed. Even with inner wear brand logos that have Korean name, it was found that they used English in the use of logo marks. Like the result of previous studies, the result of this study indicates that methods to design brand logos for clothing should be incessantly sought in a way to build brand power as an important component to represent concept or function of brands and reinforce brand image.
A Review on Ancient Literatures of Anti-insect Incense
Kwon, Young-Suk ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 802~812
The purpose of this study is to investigate effects of natural incense on the preservation of paper- and textile-based remains and the kinds and applications of natural anti-insect incense by reviewing relevant literatures of the ancient times. There are few ancient literatures of incense published in Korea. The researcher deducted how incense was used in this nation through reviewing verses contained in ancient literatures and medical books. In contrast, the kinds and applications of anti-insect incense used in China, where incense culture prospered, were investigated here through reviewing technical books about incense published during the Song(宋) and Ming(明) periods,
Chen's Incense record(陳氏香譜)
. There were several methods of keeping clothes better from insects. In relation, how to use anti-insect incense varied in accordance with main materials of clothes, paper, textile, leather and others. Cymbopogon dstans(芸香), Brassica rapu var and Incarvillea sinensis(角蒿) are anti-insect incense which were used for paper. Anti-insect incense for textiles is classified into single and mixed incenses depending on whether only one kind of incense was used or more than seven kinds of the substance. Acori rhizoma(菖蒲), Capsella bursa-pastoris(薺菜花), Lactuca sativa L., Erigeron canadensis(莽草), Stemona japonica(百部) and Moschus sifanicus(麝香) are single anti-insect incense which were used for textile. While, the latter was called. ‘Yi Xiang(衣香)’ is mixed anti-insect incense which was used for textile. Artemisia asiatica(艾葉) and Zanthoxylum schinifolium(花椒) are anti-insect incense which were used for leather. Angelica dahurica(芳香) and Bamboo are anti-insect incense which were used for others. There were three main methods of using incense to prevent insects, that is, diffusing incense's strong scent and ingredients, exposing to smokes from burnt incense and washing with incense-boiled water. Diffusing incenses had a strong scent and antibiotic ingredients, which were put between books or clothes or into a storage box without being processed. If necessary, however, they were processed into rough powders that were in turn used singly, or otherwise mixed for a stronger scent and better insect elimination. Exposing to smokes from burnt incense was done as follows. A clothes was put on 'Long(籠)' underneath which there was a boiling water. The clothes was humidified by the water and then exposed to smokes from burnt incense. 'Long(籠)' had been long used since it was manufactured in the QinHan(秦漢) period for the first time. A local literature,
shows that in the Koryo(高麗) period, BoShaLu(博山爐) were used as a means of exposing clothes to smokes to prevent moths, similarly to China. Washing clothes with incense-boiled water was more effective in removing lots of worms and germs from clothes, but leaving the scent and ingredients of the used incense and maintaining the effect of anti-insect.
Analysis of Knit Item Trend Appeared in Foreign Fashion Collections - Analysis for the Proposal of Knit Item Category List and Practical Use -
Kim, Hye-Young ; Lee, Shin-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 813~827
In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.
Study on the Fashion Design Applying Pictures of Butterfly in the Korean Folk Paintings
Lee, Jong-Min ; Lee, Mi-Ryang ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 828~839
These days, by the accelerated developments of science and industries and the menaces of war and terror, humans have come to have instinct to recur and nostalgia to nature and thereby many art works and designs with natural objectives have begun to be produced. Also the design in 21st century requires creative products based on cultural speciality of the countries. As the examples, we may easily find the images of the countries from visual expressions or products when we get in touch with the products of so called advanced countries in design i. e. U.S.A. Japan, Germany, France, Italy, countries of Scandinavian peninsular. This study, in such stream of the times, was to express our culture's own originality on clothing design with butterfly that is one of natural thing as the material but limited the boundary to realistic butterflies in folk drawings of the times of Chosun. As for the technique of expression, used digital textile printing for best expression of the fine lines, realistic shapes and peculiar colors of the butterflies in Chosun folk drawings and used diverse materials as materials for printing for diversity of the designs. Thereby this thesis is purposed to grope the products with superior competitiveness in the world market by presenting the realistic butterflies in Chosun folk drawings as motives with cultural value native to Korea and applying them to clothing designs.
Accuracy Improvement of Breast Volume Estimation Using Length Parameters of Breast
Lee, Hyun-Young ; Hong, Kyung-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 840~849
Breast volume has been approximately estimated under the assumption that the shape of breast is a corn. However, women's breast is more like a bulged bag in reality. In this paper, three methods of breast volume estimation were compared to find out the more accurate method. The shape of the breast is assumed as a hemisphere in the first estimation method and a corn in the second one. In the third method, arc along the cross sectional shape of breast was utilized in the calculation. Comparisons among the methods were made using the actual 3D volume measurement of thirty seven women's breast. As results, the third method was the best one for the normal breast type, especially for the lower part of the breast (
) which is the crucial design parameter of the brassiere. Assumption of the shape of breast as a corn was reasonably acceptable when the breast is sagged. It was expected that when women wore brassiere, the accuracy of the third method would increase more, since the shape of breast becomes more symmetrical.
The Effects of Internet Fashion Shopping Celebrity Advertising Model on Consumers' WOM
Noh, You-Na ; Lee, Scung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 850~863
The purpose of this study was to investigate if star marketing of on-line shopping malls affects consumers' WOM effect, and to compare the differences of consumption behavior between female teenagers and college students. Two hundred five female teenagers and college students who had purchased fashion goods through internet shopping mall participated in this study. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, and multiple regression were used. As the results, first, recognition of celebrity advertising models was classified into three factors such as 'trust of product', 'attractiveness of product' and 'leading interest of product' factors. Second, the greater exposure to celebrity models, the greater the good feelings about them, showing respondents' positive consumption behavior. Third, results of multiple regression revealed that behavior of pursuing celebrities' style accounted for 37% of the explained variance WOM behavior. Finally, t-test revealed that female college students were affected more by celebrity style and bought fashion items than female teenagers. However, female teenagers conducted more WOM behavior than college students. Based on these results, on-line fashion marketers would use these data for more their efficient fashion marketing strategies.
A Study on the Panty Pattern of Standard Body Somatotype for Elderly Women
Lee, Hyo-Jin ; Kim, Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 14, issue 5, 2006, Pages 864~875
The characteristics of the demographics in Korea as it gets older are the increase of Elderly Women and continuous progress in urbanization. In this study, body shapes are classified as standard, obese, and tiny according to the previous studies based on the body shape characteristics and the body measurement of the Elderly Women. Based on the classification, we developed prototype of the panty for the Elderly Women to provide basic materials for the quality enhancement of the clothing of the increasing Elderly Women. The followings are the result of the study. 1. To categorize the body shapes of the Elderly Women focusing on the lower half, we grouped the target subjects using the nested approach by the average standard deviation and the factor analysis minimal diffusion method. Accordingly, type 1 and 2 had 36 members respectively and type 3 had 43 members. In this study, two Elderly Women subjects with standard body shape falling under the type 1 were selected as the subjects. 2. In the second trial evaluation for the prototype panty for the Elderly Women 32 items for appearance test and 3 items for functional test were evaluated. The scores in leg, sideline and hip were shown high and the balance between the parts was maintained very well. In the functional test, the panty used to be too tight for the leg curve but in the second trial it was improved, too. In each item, the second trial test showed better score than the first trial test. Conclusively, the most optimal panty prototype for the Elderly Women was proposed according to the trial test result.