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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15, Issue 6 - Dec 2007
Volume 15, Issue 5 - Oct 2007
Volume 15, Issue 4 - Aug 2007
Volume 15, Issue 3 - Jun 2007
Volume 15, Issue 2 - Apr 2007
Volume 15, Issue 1 - Feb 2007
Selecting the target year
Effect of Motif Designs on Preferences and Image Perception
Lee, So-Ra ; Kim, Jae-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 193~202
The purpose of this study was to find out effects of textile motifs and the application methods on wearer's image perception. A survey was conducted to total of 255 male and female university students who are residing in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The stimuli were composed of 2 level tones(dark and light), 3 level complexity(simple, medial and complex), 3 patterns(polka dot, stripe and check) and the 2 way of stimuli application methods(fabric and garment). The instrument for measuring preference of stimuli consisted of 4 items, encouraging, preference, purchasing and popularity. The instrument for measuring image of stimuli consisted 24 pair items. Factor analysis for the adjective pair images(24 inquiries) about the textile patterns which were used in this study was performed. It resulted as three factors which are attraction, salience, and potential. Attraction, salience, and potency dimensions showed the most significant interaction effects of application methods and patterns. And tone and application method effected attraction and salience, tones and patterns effected attraction, tones and complex effected salience. Application methods and patterns effected potential and patterns and complex effected salience. The preferences toward stimuli, it resulted only interaction of tones and patterns affected the preferences('total preference' and 'purchasing'). Pearson's product-moment correlation analysis carried out to find out the relation of images of clothing and preferences. As a result, salience was significant relation with attraction and potency. In correlation between image of textile pattern and preference, attraction is most significant relation with the preference. The results of the study could be used for the marketing strategies of the motif in fashion product.
The Esthetic Characteristics on Christian Lacroix's Haute Couture Works
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 203~213
This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Christian Lacroix's haute couture works. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in fashion journal at home and abroad. The result of this study were finds three esthetic characteristics in his works and fashion philosophy; historic, ethnic, and hybrid sense. First, the historic sense, Christian Lacroix's biggest characteristic, is influenced by his major studies, but is not a revival from the past itself but a new characteristic based on borrowing and reinterpreting the images created by introducing and compromising the historic elements. Second, the ethnic sense is influenced by the growing background in his childhood and can be characterized as compromise among the multi-national design features. It is certified by the contrasting images, styles, expressions, materials, ornament elements, and so forth with the worldwide ethnic senses centered by the southern France and Spain. Third, the hybrid sense as the essential characteristic shows the uniqueness in his design by not only combining the modern materials, technologies, and futuristic emotion but also liberally compromising and associating the emotions based on a mixture among the follows; the historic representative styles, the foreign materials, the diversity between the Eastern and Western culture, and all elements, details, trimmings In the fashion design.
The Influence of Luminous Source Affecting on the Perception of Textile Color
Choi, Na-Young ; Yang, Lee-Na ; Lee, Jong-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 214~220
The purpose of this study is to derive the use of the luminous source corresponding to the intention and contribute to product display by visually evaluating the relations between luminous source and colors, analyzing and reviewing the subjective perceptions depending on the luminous source, and clarifying the colors of artificial luminous source that look close to natural lights by each color. Hence, the researcher objectified the subjective evaluation for which they used sensory evaluation method with four colors of luminous sources(natural colors, 2800K, 4200K, and 6500K) and five colors of textiles(purple, blue, green, yellow, and red) by quantifying the evaluation. As a result, we could obtain the conclusion as follows. As for the temperature of textile colors under artificial luminous sources that appeared most close to the colors of textiles under natural luminous sources, 6500K was most frequent, and the temperature of the luminous sources that appeared most different was 2800K. However, as there were also 4200K colors that looked most close to the textile colors under natural light source, it was observed that the temperature differs depending on the textile colors. In addition, less glossy textiles exhibited more visual changes by luminous source colors than comparatively more glossy textiles, and it was observed that the most influenced color was purple, as purple has shown the largest difference among colors.
Study on Fashion Illustration Technique Applying Purple
Lee, In-Seong ; Byun, Mi-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 221~231
In the modern society of the 21st century where the visuality is emphasized, the illustration which expresses one symbol by embodying it is getting more spotlight than the use of character. Specifically, the fashion illustration serves the role of image promotion in other fields, for such as book, magazine, etc, as well as the fashion, and is taking root in daily lives. In response to that, this study researched on the fusion style fashion and the fashion illustration by using the violet color. The violet color which symbolizes the mysticism is being applied to society and culture in various forms, and has been considered as a precious color that represents god since ancient time, and still possesses its mysterious image even in the modern times. Moreover, as the appearance of fusion styled clothes which consolidates the latest trend image of the west and east is combined with the mysterious image of the purple to express new cultural image beyond highlighting specific image element of a country, the study on the fashion illustration based on the clothes based on the purple and fusion style would be very interesting. This study tried to produce the work that aims at the practical study based on the purple & fusion style and the theoretical consideration of fashion illustration through the analysis and investigative study of preceding studies. The findings from the study is like this: First, the violet the color, which represents the mysticism, can be confirmed to be an sophisticated, elegant and attractive image color that leads the modern fashion. Second, the fusion style which is coming into the spotlight recently can be found to have a great visual effect of consolidating the image of the west and east through the mixture with the purple color. Third, it was confirmed in our production of works that the fashion illustration was expressing a mysterious and new fusion style by blending appropriately with the purple color.
Sexuality Expressed in the 19C Fashion in Foucauldian Post-Structural Perspective - Focusing on Femininity and Masculinity Represented in the Mainstream Fashion and Anti-Fashion in the Middle and Latter of the Nineteenth Century -
Choi, Kyung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 232~251
The purpose of this study was to understand sexuality expressed in fashion in a discursive view and reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion in the 19th century in Foucauldian post-structural perspective. As for methodology, at first the conception of sexuality was examined from structural feminism to post-structural pluralism by a literature review and discussed in relation with the matters of body and fashion on the basis of Foucault's discourse. Then, sexuality represented in the 19C fashion as a case study was re-estimated in terms of power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses and mainstream fashion and anti-fashion as well. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structuralism maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by discourse and power produced in a specific historical context. In the Foucauldian perspective sexuality expressed in the mainstream fashion and anti-fashion in the nineteenth century shows the following aspects. The mainstream fashion in the middle and latter of the 19C made the clear sexual difference in dress of plain and functional male suit and extravagant and decorative female dress on the center of bourgeois masculinity in the context of modernity and capitalism. Although anti-fashion was also co-existed with the mainstream fashion, it was criticized by the Victorian people. It codifies sexual ideology of the binary opposition of male domination and female subordination. Therefore, the traditional sexual ideology in the 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the clear sexual difference in dress in the period.
The Comparison of Foot Shape Classification Methods
Choi, Sun-Hui ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 252~264
The purpose of this study was to compare two analytical methods classifying foot shape. The methods compared were cluster analysis method and foot index analysis method. This study defined the women's foot shape by these methods. 39 foot measurements which were automatically collected using the three dimensional foot scanner were analyzed. 203 Korean women in age 20s were participated in the anthropometric survey. Their foot shapes were classified into 5 foot types by cluster analysis: short & slim shape, flat shape, short & slender shape with slightly distorted toe, long and big shape, and short & wide shape. The foot measurements were also analyzed by the ratio of foot width and length. Five foot types that were classified by cluster analysis and three foot types that were classified by the foot index were compared. The comparison shows that cluster analysis precisely defined foot shapes. It was suggested that made-to-measure shoes making industry may adopt the foot shape analysis method utilizing cluster analysis.
A Survey on the Ease of Jacket and Lining Fabrics that made of Stretchable Fabrics
Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 265~275
The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.
Improvement of Comfortability and Ability on Nonwoven Fabric for Disposable Work Clothing Using Yellow Soil Printing
Jung, Myung-Hee ; Park, Soon-Ja ; Koshiba, Tomoko ; Tamura, Teruko ; Shin, Jung-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 276~283
The purpose of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric for disposable work clothes by the yellow soil printing. It separate grind yellow soil as two different size of particles
for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, air permeability, anion property and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When yellow soil concentration increased from 5 to 10%, K/S value also increased from 1.05 to 1.88. When yellow soil concentration increased, moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. Air permeability decreased when the charcoal printing concentration increased. Anion occurrence appeared
from three different kinds of nonwoven fabrics in 3% and 9% yellow soil concentration. Therefore, occurred anion ineffectively. In concentration of 3%, rate of deodorization measured as 89%, 83% and 87%, and 9% concentration caused 96%, 86% and 93% of high deodorization. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of 60%, however, 3% and 9% concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted 99.9% of excellent antibacterial activity Surface temperature increased
by yellow soil finishing.
Consumer Age Group Differences in Knitwear Consumption Behavior
Lee, Young-Min ; Kim, Yeon-Hee ; Kim, Mi-Jin ; Lee, Yun-Kyung ; Youn, Song-Yi ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 284~298
Due to consumers' preferences for seeking a quality life and having more leisure time, comfortableness became a major criteria for selecting clothes for all age groups. This is why consumers' interests in knitwear increased recently. The purpose of this study is to analyze the knitwear consumption patterns such as style preferences, and consumer satisfaction with knitwear. Particularly, differences in age groups of consumers were analyzed. Data from 463 men and women participated in the study. Results indicated that consumers wear knits once or twice a week in average. After two to three years of consumption, they discard the knitwear. Among various apparel product categories, Consumers selected Cardigan to be the preferable knitwear product category. They preferred 100% cotton and achromatic or gray/brown color with solid fabrics. In general, consumers were most satisfied with colors and least satisfied with laundering of knitwear. Older consumers preferred knitwear to woven products, preferred pull-over style and valued feelings of softness and comfortableness when wearing knitwear. There were more differences in dissatisfaction factors than satisfaction factors according to the consumer age groups.
A Study on the Wool Knitted Jacket Pattern Development Suited for a Middle-Aged Woman's Body Shape
Han, Jin-Yee ; Choi, Jin-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 299~310
The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.
Effect of Tone Variation of Makeup and Clothing on Image in Color Coordination - Focused on Achromatic Clothing Wearers' -
Jeong, Su-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 311~325
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of eyeshadow color(brown, purple), lipstick color(red, red purple, and yellow red), and lipstick tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark), clothing style(formal, casual), clothing tone(N9, N7, N4, N2) on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 128 color pictures manipulated with the combination of eyeshadow color, lipstick color, lipstick tone, clothing style, and clothing tone using computer simulation. The subjects were 768 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 5 different components, attractiveness, stability, cuteness, visibility, and tenderness. In the 5 image components, clothing style and clothing tone showed independent effect. In the stability, cuteness and visibility, lipstick color showed independent effect. Eyeshadow color and lipstick tone influenced independently on the attractiveness, stability and visibility. In the coordination of achromatic clothing with makeup face, attractiveness image by the coordination of lipstick tone with clothing tone, cuteness image by the coordination of lipstick tone with clothing style or clothing style with clothing tone, visibility image can be produced by the coordination of eyeshadow color with lipstick color.
The Deconstruction Trend Expressed in the Works of Jean Paul Gaultier - Focused on Designs from 2001 to 2006 -
Chu, Mi-Kyung ; Hong, Jeong-Hwa ; Choi, Kyung-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 326~338
This paper examines the works produced from 2000, the first year of the new millenium, to the late 2006 with a focus on those of Jean Paul Gaultier, a representative designer of deconstruction, in an effort to determine the aesthetic characters of deconstructional fashion. In this context, this paper deals with the theoretical study on the concepts and features of deconstruction as a part of analysis into its fashion using the works of Gaultier as a major source viewed to typically demonstrate the deconstructional characters of fashion. For this purpose, a survey was conducted to 155 works of Gaultier featured from 2001 to 2006 mostly in Vogue, the popular and influencing magazine of the USA(39 pieces in 2001, 30 in 2002, 29 in 2003, 23 in 2004, 12 in 2005 and 22 in 2006, respectively). In particular, 106 fashion pictures were put to analysis as they seemed to represent deconstruction intensively. The deconstructional characters of his works were examined in the categories of difference, inter-meaning, inter-textuality and decomposition on the basis of preceding studies, which resulted in the following outcomes: First, difference was found in 38 works out of 106 images, accounting for 36%, the biggest frequency; Second, inter-meaning accounted for 33% with 35 pieces, most frequently next to difference; Third, inter-textuality followed inter-meaning with 17 images or 15% in terms of frequency; Fourth, decomposition was revealed in 16 images in the same ratio of 15% as inter-textuality.
A Study on the Development of Avatar Fashion Item as Cultural Industries Using Digital Contents - Focused on the Off-Line Fashion Brand -
Lee, Keum-Hee ; Ryu, Jin-Kyoung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 339~351
Many off-line fashion brands currently has construct hompage in the form of digital contents at the website. The purpose of this study is to confirm that fashion item of avartar can be applicate to react for consumer desires by a process of construction for hompage digital contents of fashion brand, and develop various avartar fashion item to satisfy consumer's wants using the computer graphics. The results of this study are as followings. First, it should be the first to decide whether hompage contents can be used for any purposes. And it will offer initial brand concept, followed by the contents of event, blog, avatar, fashion information. Second, portal sites currently service avatar fashion item, but it just bounds the limit of indirect effect. Many fashion brands face a challenge to differenciate themselves, so avatar fashion item should be planned to coordinate the contents and brand concept. Also it is certainly possible that fashion brand communicates larger consumers with a avartar fashion item that appeal to a consumer's sensibility. Third, this study propose design development and application as 3 of the avartar fashion item using the computer graphics. Avatar Fashion item using the computer graphics was presented by application as promotion through event garment, item coordinate, cellular phone service.
The Surrealistic Features of Viktor & Rolf's Design
Lee, Young-Min ; Lee, Youn-Hee ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 15, issue 2, 2007, Pages 352~367
Viktor and Rolf, despite their short career in the field, has been continuously giving a fresh impact on fashion design by grafting a surrealistic approach to their design works. As a basis of this study, we review the features of surrealistic drawing and the surrealistic features expressed in surrealistic clothes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the surrealistic features detected in the clothes designed by Viktor and Rolf on the basis of the above standard and review and predict the future trend in fashion. As for the research method, we review the previous researches and analyze the drawing works by some representative surrealistic artists, in particular, Schiaparelli's clothes in the 1930s, the clothes of surrealistic trend since 2000, and Viktor & Rolf's clothes. The result of the analysis is as follows. The surrealistic features of Viktor & Rolf clothes can be found in the movement of natural objects, the movement of everyday materials, the movement of clothing items, and visual illusion on clothes. As a whole, the surrealistic features clearly stood out in their clothes. High technology will rapidly change the modern society and we humans are likely to resort to something fresh or different as our emotion and feelings are getting tired and weary. Something that stimulates our feeling and emotion hidden behind our reason or logic will be reflected in design far more than something complex and functional. For this reason, as it reveals human imagination inherently, surrealism is expected to establish itself as a mega trend in the future.