Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 16, Issue 5 - Oct 2008
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Aug 2008
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Jun 2008
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Apr 2008
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study of Femininity and Masculinity Represented in Men's and Women's Fashion Magazine in Korea since 2000
Choi, Kyung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 1~21
The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.
Comparison of Textile & Fashion Brand Strategies Implemented by Textile Industries in Korea and Italy
Lee, Eun-Oak ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 22~32
The purpose of this paper is to compare and analyze the national brand strategies between Korea and Italy and the ragional brand strategies between Jinju in Korea and Como in Italy. The study is conducted via periodicals and publication of related institutions, reports of various newspapers and academic journals, and interviews of Jinju Silk Research Institution and Tessile di Como. This study then examines the implication of the success of Italian national and regional brands to the Korean textile products and the adoptability of Italian brand strategies for Korean textile brand. Our findings suggest that the Italian brands have been successfully developed in terms of product quality and brand marketing based on their traditional products. The findings also indicate that the Korean traditional textile products have the potential to be the world wide products but lack the consist and brand strategies supported by the central government as well as the regional government. This paper further suggests that it is necessary to study the development of brand strategy based on the traditional textile products and its implimentation.
The Effects of Fashion Product Salesperson's Emotional Labor, Self-Efficacy and Burnout on Customer-Oriented Selling Behavior
Lee, Kyung-Bok ; Chung, Myung-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 33~47
The purposes of this study were to extract the effects of emotional labor, self-efficacy and burnout on customer-oriented selling behavior of salesperson by literature review and to examine the effect variables on customer-oriented selling behavior empirically. The questionnaire was administered to 400 salespersons who were selling clothes, cosmetics, shoes, leather products and accessories in department stores located in Kwang-ju city during August 18-24, 2006. Data collected from 307 salespersons were analyzed by using descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation, regression analysis and path analysis. The results were as follows: First, Salesperson's emotional labor was composed of two factors; emotional labor toward the customer and emotional labor toward the organization. Second, Salesperson's emotional labor had negative significant influence on customer-oriented selling behavior. Specifically, the emotional labor toward the organization negatively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior, but the emotional labor toward the customer positively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior. Third, Salesperson's emotional labor positively influenced on burnout. Specifically, emotional labor toward organization significantly influenced on burnout, but emotional labor toward customer did not influenced on burnout. Fourth, Salesperson's self-efficacy positively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior. Fifth. Salesperson's self-efficacy negatively influenced on burnout. Finally, Salesperson's burnout negatively influenced on comer-oriented selling behavior. The direct effect of salesperson's self-efficacy on customer-oriented selling behavior was large than the indirect effect of salesperson's self-efficacy mediate burnout. But the indirect effect of salesperson's emotional labor mediate burnout was large than the direct effect of salesperson's emotional labor on customer- oriented selling behavior.
A Study on the Lining Pattern Making Method of Pants Made of Stretchable Fabrics
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 48~57
The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.
A Research on the Actual State of Manufacturers of Cycle Wears and Condition in Wearing - Focusing on Cycle Wear of Male (
Lee, Yu-Jin ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 58~69
The purpose of this research therefore, was to conduct research on the actual state of manufacturers of cycle wears and the condition in wearing; to present the basic data to develop cycle wears which can lessen the trouble for the human body and an excellent feeling in wearing. For research on the actual state of manufacturers of cycle wears, three domestic companies were grasped. To inquire the condition in wearing, the method of questionnaire was used for 100 peoples consisted of male cycling professional players and ordinary peoples with the same tastes. As the result of research: The manufacturers were targeting for the professional players and men with the same tastes. They produced goods by themselves as well as in the form of subcontract, and they did not classify goods for male & female. Materials they used for cycle wears were mainly composed of jersey with spandex and nylon. The production ratio of cycle wears is shown as 80% for company A, 25% for company B, and 90% for company C. They make a pattern of cycle wears by a technical tie-up with foreign companies, or by the development of their own pattern. As the result of study on the present condition in wearing cycle wears according to each season, it was figured out that the users usually weard short-sleeved T-shirts with dividing zipper for summer upper garment, shorts most preferably for summer lower garment; long-sleeved shirts for spring and fall upper garment, and shorts with incision most preferably for spring and fall lower garment. Also, they usually weard jumpers with incision for winter upper garment, and long pants in which ankle parts of incision were tightened most preferably for winter lower garment.
Effect of Korea's Entertainment Culture on the Fashion of the College Students
Yang, A-Rang ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 70~87
The purpose of this study is to examine how the entertainment culture has influenced the fashion of the college students since the year 2000, and to analyze the fashion trends of those who enjoy their entertainment culture. The entertainment culture is, therefore, perceived in the most sensitive way by the college students, who belong to the latter period of their adolescence, while influencing them. Especially recently, the entertainment culture of the college students has emerged as a new symbol of the overall fashion. And its effect on the fashion has become conspicuous. The 21st entertainment culture is comprised of "club culture", which is an off-line fad, and "on-line game culture". The result of this study is as follows: Firstly, the formative way that the so-called "club culture" influenced the fashion of the college students shows that their overall fashion trends are characterized by a 'caports image' and a 'childlike-amusing image'. Secondly, the formative fashion style, influenced by the so-called "on-line game culture", presents a 'post- structural image' by using heterogeneous material in order to introduce a new point of view, and by transforming the creation style and design. And it also presents a 'homosexual image' by crossing the attractiveness of both genders. This study is baseds on the documents study.
A Study on the Technology Convergence in Contemporary Fashion
Park, Nang-Hee ; Lee, Hyun-Jung ; Choi, Yoon-Mi ; Kim, Yoon-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 88~99
This study aims to analyze product samples of convergence of fashion and technology, as convergence is a major trend in the age of digital paradigm, and to propose desirable directions of development for technology convergence in fashion design in the future. With bibliographic research as well as internet search of the cases of development and commercialization of convergence of fashion and technology from the 1960s, when wearable computers were first introduced as an early development form of convergence, to the present, it becomes possible to classify these cases into three groups: functionally oriented one, aesthetically oriented one, and one that combines function and aesthetics. The pros and cons of each group of these cases are discussed and an evolutionary trend is observed from the earlier stage of convergence with functionally oriented cases which tried to achieve specific purposes of the time to the later stage of convergence with emphasis on both function and aesthetics which reflects the sensitivity of the general wearers. When three groups are plotted in the positioning map with one axis of function-aesthetics and the other of industry-fashion designer, however, all three are located outside of the two axes, suggesting these elements are not very well combined. In order for the products of the fashion-technology convergence in the future to receive favorable response from the consumers, it is necessary for the fashion industry to develop a close collaboration with companies of digital technology and the convergence products not only will have to provide functional benefits of the new technology but also to satisfy the aesthetic demands of the wearers.
The Characteristics of Fashion Designer's Work Shown in Supermodern Environment
Kim, Wan-Joo ; Lee, Keum-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 100~114
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of supermodern fashion designer's work, which is shown by responding to supermodern environment where non-spaces such as road, railroad and airport are surplus in modern city environment. For the study, the researcher used existing study and specialized book basically and analyzed photograph materials by selecting them in specialized fashion book, internet site and designer's homepage. The results of this study showed that supermodern fashion design is the functional fashion responding to the change of time and space concept of supermodern society directly. As the common points of supermodern designer's works, first, they try to create private space enabling wearer to cope with risk caused by the environmental change and transitional space by adding architectural factor to fashion. Second, they display the design with protective function and metaphorical expression of concealment and deception in the supermodern environment where nonspace is increasing. Third, designers search the functional design from the aspect of fabric and detail while intending the technology in order to cope with supermodern environment.
The Influence of a Physical-Related Stress on Appearance Management Behavior of Middle-aged Women
Jeon, Hyun-Jin ; Chung, Myung-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 115~129
The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the physical-related stress on the appearance management behavior of middle-aged women. The questionnaires were administered to 414 middle-aged women living in Gwang-ju city, Korea. For analysis of data, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Cronbach's
, t-test, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied. The result was as follows. First, the middle-aged women's physical-related stress was classified as follows: 1) body-related stress, 2) face-related stress, 3) hair-related stress. The middle-aged women were under a lot of pressures from hair. Second, usually, between the group of physical-related much stress and a little stress. There was not significant difference in appearance management behavior: existence in a purchasing experience. But there were significant differences in it: intention of purchasing. Third, among demographic factors(age, educated level, job, income, and existence or nonexistence menstruation), there were significant differences on a physical-related stress. Finally, among demographic factors(age, educated level, job, income, existence or nonexistence her husband, and existence or nonexistence menstruation), there were significant differences in appearance management behavior.
Fashion Design Study on Korean Traditional Image Suitable for Ramie Fabric(I) - The Application of Aesthetic Property of Goguryeo Era Clothing -
Lee, Mi-Yeon ; Lee, Kun-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 130~144
A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.
The Role of Interactivity in Online Shopping Environments
Park, Min-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 145~157
The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of interactivity on consumers' mental imagery, attitude toward a product, confidence in evaluation and purchase intention. The proposed model was examined by conducting an experiment using mock apparel websites. A total of 1,009 female college students enrolled at a major midwestern university in the USA participated in the experiment. A structural equation model was used to test the model. The results of the study indicate that interactivity positively influenced mental imagery, attitudes toward a product imagery, and confidence in evaluation. The structural equation model also revealed that mental imagery positively influenced attitude toward a product and confidence in evaluation. Finally, the results show that attitude toward a product and confidence in judgment positively affected purchase intention. The study provides valuable theoretical perspectives which aide in the understanding of the effect of interactivity on consumers' cognitive and behavioral responses, and helps retailers develop effective marketing strategies.
Dyeing Properties and Ultraviolet-cut Ability of Silk and Nylon Fabrics Dyed with Rhus verniciflua Extracts
Choi, In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 158~165
The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability on silk 100% and nylon 100% fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. This study was investigated K/S values, surface color, washing fastness, dry cleaning fastness and ultraviolet-cut ability of the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts under the various dyeing conditions. As mordanting were used Tin(II) Chloride dihydrate
, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate
. pH was adjusted by sodium carbonate
and formic acid(HCOOH). The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts were
, 100min, and in the nylon fabrics were
, 45min. It were colored(munsell value) 6.4Y 7.5/4.1 in the silk fabrics and colored 4.3Y 6.6/5.9 in the nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. Washing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness in the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with mordanting agent improved in
grade. UV-A test showed that nylon fabrics a high rate of 92% with Rhus verniciflua extracts.
The Effects of 'Appearance Language' on Sexual Impulse
Han, Myung-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 166~180
These days, sexual harassment in the workplace or at school is being socially visualized. In this study, the desirable direction for clothing behavior is suggested by discussing the relationship between sexual desire and clothing. The relationship between sexual impulse and clothing is provided by studying college student's general opinion about sexual desire, also different ideas from females and males about the clothes that cause sexual impulses were studied, moreover, the desirable direction for clothing behavior is suggested by comparing the perceptions of college students about overly revealing clothing. This study performed the self description method and in-depth interview method on male and female college students at 3 University for 3 weeks from May, 28, 2007 to June, 23, 2007. After which 564 survey papers were distributed. The program SPSS WIN 12.0 was used to statistically analyze the data Frequency analysis, cross analysis, T-test, and a reliability test were performed on the study subject. According to the study results, sexual impulses are affected not only by internal factors but also external factors such as clothing and it is an important point. Women should not only pursue an attractive external appearance but also consider how other people think and respond to the message, and they should protect themselves from sexual harassment, or sexual violence, which are anti-social behaviors, by wearing clothes that are less stimulating.
A Study on the Supply Chain Partnership for SCM - Focusing on Apparel Companies and Outsourcing Suppliers -
Rhee, Byung-Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 1, 2008, Pages 181~203
This study suggests a model to identify relationships between Supply Chain Partnership(SCP) and the performance of Supply Chain Management(SCM) based on apparel companies and outsourcing suppliers of finished products that are in a position of getting into Supply Chain Level on apparel industry. This research model is based on an integrated model including a relationship between relationship formation factors and partnership strengthening factors in SCP; and supply chain performance a result of that relationship. The formation factors of SCP affect emotional elements(trust, commitment) of strengthening factors, and they, in turn, impact the performance of a supply chain through behavioral elements(collaboration, information sharing)16 hypotheses were formulated to research the degree of impact of SCP on supply chain performance. Theoretical and empirical research was executed in parallel to achieve the objectives of this study. Empirical research involved a research methodology using surveys. Survey target audiences were limited to designers and merchandisers over five years of experience with apparel companies and outsourcing suppliers for finished products operating mainly in Korea. SPSS 12.0 for Windows and AMOS 5.0 were used for data and statistical analysis. Reviewing the result of research model and identification of each hypothesis, total 11 from 16 hypotheses set by this research were selected, 5 hypotheses were dropped, and 4 meaningful paths were added.