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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 16, Issue 5 - Oct 2008
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Aug 2008
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Jun 2008
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Apr 2008
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Design of Pop Art Applied to T-Shirt
Kim, Eun-Ha ; Cho, Jean-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 409~424
This study intends to analyze T-shirt designs, particularly in connection with pop art. 444 pieces of T-shirts which conveyed the pop art spirits of well-known designers were selected for five years from 2001 to 2005, through fashion magazines(Collection: Dong-ah TV, Collezioni: Italy). The findings are as follows. As for formative characteristics of pop art in T-shirts, previous studies were analyzed to set classifications criteria such as popularization of images, eroticism, lettering and graffiti, assemblage. The design factor of the image popularization includes everyday images, cartoon, celebrities, and caricature. Everyday images ranked first followed by cartoon, caricature and celebrities. The design factor of eroticism ranges from the see-through look, partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and to printing of sexy images. The see-through look was ranked first, followed by partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and printing of sexy images. The design factor of lettering and graffiti encompasses letters, numbers, symbols and logos. Adoption of letters, numbers or symbols was ranked first, followed by brand logos and graffiti. The design factor of Assemblage is closely related to a three-dimensional effect. Varied expressions are possible: combination of two different textiles and fusion of textile and non-textile. Combination of two different textiles are higher than fusion of textile and non-textile.
A Study on the Seamless Knitting Method of Knitted Flare Skirts
Ki, Hee-Sook ; Lee, Youn-Hee ; Park, Myung-Ja ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 425~431
The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles (
) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and
knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.
A Study on the Strategies of the Fashion Industry toward Fast Fashion
Lim, Sung-Min ; Choi, Ju-Young ; Kim, Mi-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 432~443
Fast fashion is widely accepted in young generation who are eager to the new fashion trends. With the consumers' rapid adoption of fast fashion, fashion retailers have tried to adopt strategies to reflect current and emerging trends as quickly as possible and effectively in current merchandise assortment, raises important issues with respect to the processes of effective merchandise management. However, the concept of fast fashion has not been academically investigated and developed properly yet. Therefore, this study mainly reviewed secondary data such as leading fast fashion companies' website, newspaper articles and Zara's case study which covers fast fashion issues. Fast fashion gets widely spreading in market, current investigation showed that domestic fashion companies have adopted fast fashion concept in early stage. This study tried to examine characteristics and strategies used by fast fashion businesses to provide domestic fashion industry with valuable information of production and marketing strategies. Suggestions through the result are as follows: 1. Fast fashion requires flexible managing systems such as SCM, QRS and JIT in order to promote efficient production and assortment management from the entire supply chain. 2. Domestic fast fashion companies should build up not only quality of good design but also reasonable price and strengthen marketing strategies in order to compete with abroad fashion companies 3. Fashion companies that succeed in satisfying consumer's desire for new trend show that it has been successful their strategy to make market area wider to the world not focusing on domestic market.
A Study on Life Style and Clothing Purchasing Behaviors of Female Consumers - Focused on Comparison with Adolescence, Middle Age, and Senescence -
Jeon, Kyoung-Ran ; Lee, Mi-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 444~460
The purposes of this study were to investigate life style and various clothing purchasing behaviors of female consumers, and to analyze the differences of life style and clothing purchasing behaviors by 3 age groups(adolescence, middle age, and senescence). The subjects were 750 adult women aged from twenties to sixties who live in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The research method is a survey and research instruments consisted of life style questionnaire, clothing purchasing behaviors questionnaires, and demographic attribution. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, variance analysis, Duncan's multiple range test and
test, using SPSS program. The research results are follows. First, 6 factors were emerged in life style(appearance-oriented, achieve-oriented, social life-oriented, economic- oriented, equality of sexes-oriented, and leisure- oriented). Second, 5 factors were emerged in shopping orientation(resonable shopping, conspicuous shopping, voluptuous shopping, devoted shopping, and convenient shopping). Third, clothing purchasing behaviors of adult women showed many differences by age groups. Adolescence women considered more criterion including design, price, and color or pattern, purchased their clothing by psychological reason such as fashion change, and used internet as important source of clothing, whereas senescence women purchased by physical reason such as body size change and functional trouble, used friend and sales person as important source of clothing, and purchased clothing at department store and old style market.
The Development of Jeans Pattern for Non-Stretch Denim Fabrics - The Comparison of Bio, Bio Stone, Bio Stone Bleach Washing Finishing -
Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Kim, Kyung-A ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 461~474
The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending
, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was
, hips circumference was
, thigh circumference was
and knee circumference was
. Also, hem circumference was
and pants length was
. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.
A Study of Playfulness Shown in the Haute Couture Collections - Mainly Focused on Works after the Year 2000 -
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 475~487
The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.
Brassiere Pattern Development Based on 3D Measurements of Upper Body - Focused on Women in Their 30's -
Cho, Shin-Hyun ; Kim, Mi-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 488~501
The purpose of this study presents bra pattern using the 3D measurements of the upper body subject to women in their 30's. Brassieres available in the market are mostly designed for straight body shape and many women seem to have experienced bearing discomfort in a great extent as they grow older. Brassieres should be designed to cover diverse body types and the accurate measurement of body type and breast shape is needed to accomplish that. As for the study method, 3D human body types were analyzed with RapidForm 2006, and the upper-body types and breast shapes were statistically classified through technical statistics analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, variance analysis, and cross analysis. The wearing tests went through the comparison of the brassieres of three makers in the market and the experiment brassieres(first and second) and then the evaluations were made by the subjects, the outer appearance assessment by experts, and 3D measurements. The results of this study showed that the evaluation of experiment brassieres was excellent in every item, and the significant difference was found out particularly in the items of pressure, rear center, front center, breast underneath, adequate level by wing, and adequate level by armhole. According to the results of 3D evaluation, experiment brassieres had a highest point in fitness with no physical pressure at the wing part and no overall deviation at the cup part.
Brassiere Pattern Development Based on 3D Measurements of Upper Body Types for Women in Their 40's
Cho, Shin-Hyun ; Kim, Mi-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 502~517
The purpose of the study lies in the measurements of breast shapes and upper body types for the women in their 40's, with the use of 3D measurement system, and in the presentation of brassiere patterns fit for their body types. As for the study method, 3D human body types were analyzed with RapidForm 2006, and the upper-body types and breast shapes were statistically classified through technical statistics analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, variance analysis, and cross analysis. The wearing tests went through the comparison of the brassieres of three makers in the market and the experiment brassieres(first and second) and then the evaluations were made by the subjects, the outer appearance assessment by experts, and 3D measurements. The findings of the study indicated that the evaluation of experiment brassieres was excellent in every item, and he significant difference was found out particularly in the items of pressure, rear center, front center, breast underneath, adequate level by wing, and adequate level by armhole. According to the results of 3D evaluation, experiment brassieres had a highest point in fitness with no physical pressure at the wing part and no overall deviation at the cup art. The pattern comparison showed the differences in the parts of total cup angle, cup circumference length, lower cup height, wing length, and wing angle.
Preference and Wearing Frequency of Knit-Wears Related to Self-Image
Shin, Youn-Kyung ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 518~532
The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between women's self-image and the preference and the wearing frequency of knit-wears, and to examine the characteristics of the design elements that influence the preferred knit-wear images. The subjects were 277 female college students and working women living in metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's
-reliability coefficient, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression analysis. Four dimensions of women's self-images were derived by factor analysis; elegance, conservativeness, individuality, and maturity. Women with conservative self-image preferred simple knit-wears and women with high rate for individuality preferred splendid and sporty knit-wears. Women with elegant self-image disliked sporty knit-wears. Women with conservative self-image preferred white, and those who rated their self-image to be individuality preferred various colors including yellow, blue, green, purple, pink, and sky-blue. Women with mature self-image preferred black and beige. Women with individuality as their self-image preferred jacquard pattern and abstract pattern. There was a higher wearing frequency for all four seasons for women with conservative self-image, and there was higher wearing frequency in the winter for those with elegant self-images. Women who preferred simple knit-wears showed preference for single color with no prints and low chroma color, and those who preferred sporty knit-wears showed preference for elastic materials. Women who preferred neat and elegant knit-wears showed preference for argyle check pattern.
Male Attitude and Recognition for Appearance Management Behavior
Park, Su-Jin ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 533~546
This study aims on observing the recognition and attitude of caring for outer appearance by deducing the factors of men caring for their outer appearance at current point where male position is being emphasized in the appearance related market and their interest for outer appearance care is increasing. As a result of conducting a survey, male appearance caring behavior was distinguished into fashion, skin and cosmetic, cosmetic surgery, physical image, and hair factors, and among them, physical image factor showed the highest average, which proves that men generally have positive attitude towards caring for their looks. Concerning skin and cosmetics, the results show that interest is high regardless of age and occupation, and the lower the age is, the higher average for fashion, cosmetic surgery, and hair factors, proving that young men have more interest for caring after their looks. However, there was difference in outer appearance caring behavior pursued or favored by each age bracket according to the higher average for physical image in the age bracket higher than 30. Also, each factor of outer appearance caring behavior turned out to have significant correlation to each other.
The Trend of Newspaper Articles for Male Appearance Management
Park, Su-Jin ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 547~558
This study aims on observing the social recognition and its aspects for men taking care of their outer appearances at current point where men are rapidly rising as the main consumer in the beauty industry while their interest for outer appearances are increasing. Therefore, we observed the overall trend and changes in social recognition for male looks by analyzing the contents of newspaper articles from 1990 to 2005 that play the critical role of spreading new information trend while reflecting the interest of people of a certain era. As a result, articles related to male looks were divided into fashion, hair, skin and cosmetics, physical image, cosmetic surgery, trend related to male looks, and male oriented stores and sites, and among them, articles related to fashion and skin took up the highest ratio. Especially articles related to the trend took up the largest ratio as it reflects the properties of two industries launching new products. Moreover, articles related to male looks tended to increase generally according to timely changes, and rapidly increased especially since 2000.
Content Analysis of On-Line Consumer Information for Elderly - Comparison between the US and Korea Apparel E-tailing Sites -
Hong, Kyung-Hee ; Choo, Ho-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 559~573
Internet apparel businesses are required to provide various kinds of consumer information which includes both product information and customer service information. "New Age Elderly" who become an aged man in 21th century are familiar with internet and other high technological tools from their life time experience with technological development and ready to enjoy the convenience the technology offers. As a preliminary step to develop internet consumer information model for elderly consumers, this study examines the US and Korea apparel e-tailing sites targeting elderly consumers. Ten Korean sites and nine US sites were selected and compared for their provision of consumer information in terms of contents, ease to access, and the completeness of the information. Results of data analysis indicate that elderly market in Korea is not yet clearly defined compared to the US. In Korea, elderly consumer market is considered as a part of middle-aged market, and there was no unique target marketing efforts observed. Korean sites are better than the US's sites in terms of shopping information, while the US sites offer detailed information about the company, and customer service information. In both countries, fashion related information is lacking and failing to satisfy fashion conscious elderly consumers. Managerial implications were discussed.
Effects of Purchasing Motives, Evaluative Criteria of Store, Information Sources on Store Patronage Behavior of High School Girls for Color Cosmetics
Lee, In-Kyung ; Park, Eun-Joo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 574~587
The purposes of this study were to classify shopper types by high-school girls' purchasing motivations of color cosmetics and to examine the effects of store evaluative criteria and information sources on store patronage behaviors. A questionnaire was developed based on the previous studies and was administrated to 534 high-school girls living in Busan High school girls were pursuing to cover and white their faces by using color cosmetics. The data was analyzed by factor analysis, chi-square test, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncantest, and regression analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results showed that they were classified Covering/whitening pursuing groups, Beauty pursuing groups, and Curiosity/conformity pursuing groups by their purchasing motivations of color cosmetics. High school are girls pursuing to cover and white their faces by using color cosmetics, and are were likely to visit low price specialty stores. This is influenced by their experiences and information from their friends or families. Girls using color cosmetics from their curiosity or conformity were likely to shop in low price specialty stores with a good layout and kind salespersons, while they were likely to use general specialty stores when they wanted to exchange and test cosmetics. These findings may provide useful implications for researchers and marketers related to color cosmetics markets of high school girls.
A Research of Body Image
Lee, Mi-Hyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 16, issue 3, 2008, Pages 588~594
Lookism is spread largely because many people think beautiful people are treated better and receive more favors. This trend has been influenced by mass media and impacted by commercial marketing strategy. The expectation for the beauty have risen higher than ever. People expect beautiful body and beautiful face which are more difficult to meet the standard of beauty. People desire tall and skinny body. The purpuse of this study was to find out body image from college females in the age which they are very sensitive to appearance. This research focused to find out how they perceived their own body shape and their perception of the most ideal body shape. Measuring tool for the research was 9 pictures of body silhouette from very skinny to very fat. To analyse the respondents' objective body image, Body Mass Index were employed. The result of this research indicated that there were distinct differences between their subjective body images and ideal body images. This result indicated that they were not satisfied with their own body shape and hence they were not confident towards their body images. Even though their objective bodies were normal or under weight, they still felt they were over weight. This meant their body images were misrepresented. They preferred thinner bodies even though their bodies were perfectly normal and healthy. But these misrepresented body images could be unhealthy physically, psychologically, or socially. These results showed that college females were overly obsessive with superficial appearance rather than improving ones capability to be more competitive in the society. From this research, I tried to find out perception of body image and it's distortion which was debated a lot in our society. I also want to provide basic reference material for establishing the body image study.