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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2009
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2009
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2009
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2009
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2009
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Satisfaction of the Store Attribute, Intention of Revisit and Recommendation on the Clothing Consumer
Yang, Lee-Na ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 367~382
The aim of the current study was to investigate the impact of store attribute satisfaction on intentions of revisit and recommendation among clothing consumers. The data were collected from 319 consumers through survey and frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis were used to obtain results. The findings were as follows: 1. From factor analysis, seven factors were distracted: Fact 1(brand and price), Fact 2(store's facility and environment), Fact 3(product), Fact 4(transportation convenience and access), Fact 5(selling and advertisement), Fact 6(store's atmosphere), and Fact 7(salesman's service). 2. Four factors had statistically significant influence on overall satisfaction of clothing consumers. The most influential factor was Fact 2(store's facility and environment) and Fact 5(selling and advertisement), Fact 1(brand and price), and Fact 4(transportation convenience and access) showed their effects on overall satisfaction in an hierarchical rank-order following Fact 2. 3. Four factors such as Fact 2(store's facility and environment), Fact 1(brand and price), Fact 4(transportation convenience and access) and Fact 5(selling and advertisement) in an hierarchical rank-order from Fact 1 had statistically significant impact on intentions of revisit. 4. Six factors such as Fact 1(brand and price), Fact 2(store's facility and environment), Fact 3(product), Fact 5(selling and advertisement), Fact 6(store's atmosphere), and Fact 7(salesman's service) in an hierarchical rank-order from Fact 1 had statistically significant influence on the intention of recommendation. 5. The results further showed that among seven factors, Fact 1(brand and price), 'Fact 2(store's facility and environment), and Fact 5(selling and advertisement) had impact on both the intention of revisit and the intention of recommendation.
The Aesthetic and Formative Characteristics of Egypt Retro Trends
Kim, Eun-Sil ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 383~395
The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.
A Study on Aesthetic Characteristics of Drapery Costume
Ahn, Sun-Hee ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 396~406
Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.
A Study on Leon Bakst's Stage Costumes for Ballets Russes
Lee, Young-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 407~423
The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed
, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival.
was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as
, L'Oiseau de Feu, La
and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse,
Faune and Daphnis et
inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.
Effect of Chitosan Treatment for Improving Physical Properties of Taegwondo Uniform
Kim, Son-Hee ; Joen, Mi-Sun ; Kim, Hae-Soo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 424~430
Taegwondo uniforms need powerful durability in fabrics against friction and shock because of higher exercising power. Therefore, in this study we developed more comfortable Taegwondo uniform for functional fabrics(deodorization rate, antibacterial activity and static charge). Chitosan is a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. For the purpose of this study, we used the chitosan, which was congenial to the human body. Then, we compared the differences between the chitosan treated fabrics and non treated fabrics of Taegwondo uniform(100% polyester, 65% polyester/35% cotton). Chitosan was dissolved in 1% acetic acid. Also, the fabrics were washed using distilled water. Afterward, its treatment with chitosan was completed by padding the sample to its wet pick-up at
and by heating
for 3 minutes. The chitosan treated Taegwondo uniform was improved on deodorization rate than non treated uniform. And the chitosan treated Taegwondo uniform was improved remarkably the antibacterial activity in all samples. In the further researches, the static charge was reduced in chitosan treatment uniform.
A Study on the Gender Role Changes of Korean Women Reflected on Women's Costume Design during 20th Century
Lee, Jee-Hyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 431~446
The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1)
: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2)
: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3)
: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4)
: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6)
: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.
The Study of Aesthetic Value in Cindy Sherman's Fashion Photographs
Yun, Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 447~458
The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. This study focuses on Cindy Sherman's fashion photographs, which represent different kinds of respect to the women's states and identity. Cindy Sherman describes neglected women, sexual characteristics, and tries to overcome the limitation existing in modern society. By analyzing her fashion photographs, women's identities can be examined and the new trial of fashion photographs' expression is able to be considered as well. The results are summarized into two traits. The first is grotesque images, which have strange cuts, dissolved and deformed bodies. Those are expressions to subvert the stereotype of women. The second is amusement, which is expressed with uncanny and ridiculous appearances. These fun images are challenges to depict human instinct and also symbolic plays.
The Effect of VMD Image Appropriateness on Consumers' Affective, Cognitive, and Conative Responses - Testing Models based on the Emotion-Cognition Theory and the Cognitive Theory of Emotions -
Park, Min-Jung ; Lee, So-Eun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 459~471
The purpose of the study is to examine the effect of VMD image appropriateness in apparel shopping contexts. Two competing models are utilized. The first model is developed from the emotion-cognition theory which explains that environmental cues(i.e., VMD image appropriateness) generate consumers' emotion, and in turn, consumers' behaviors. The second model is developed based on the cognitive theory of emotions and posits that environmental cues stimulates consumers' cognitive perceptions of retail environments, subsequently influencing consumers' emotional and behavioral response. A 2(VMD image appropriateness: high vs. low) between-subjects factorial design experiment was conducted. Female college students(n=592) participated in the experiment. Using structural equation modeling the study found that the emotion-cognition model better explains the effect of VMD image appropriateness on consumers' emotional, cognitive, and behavioral responses.
A Study on Change in the Length of Knit Flare Skirt through Mechanical Properties
Ki, Hee-Sook ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 472~483
The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at
, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.
Middle and Elderly Women's Formal Knitwear Design Attributes Based on the Quality Function Deployment Theory
Park, Jae-Ok ; Lee, Yoon-Mee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 484~498
The purpose of this study is to explore the applicability of QFD to product development of clothes by empirically applying it to development of a specific clothes, middle and elderly women’s formal knitwear. The voices of customers(VOCs) for formal knitwear was collected through in-depth interviews with 25 customers, shop masters, and designers. Also, questionnaires of which respondents were 230 customers were used to rank the importance of the items of VOC. A QFD team of 10 knitwear experts implemented the task of translating VOCs into design attributes and measuring the values of the relationships between VOCs and design attributes. Importance ranking of the items of design attributes was obtained based on Lyman's method. The results of this study were as follows. First, the customer requirements for formal knitwear were classified into five dimensions, that is, symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. Second, the descending order of the necessity of improving the quality was maintenance, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and symbolism. Third, three-staged design attributes were obtained as a result of translating of VOCs into design attributes. Lastly, the descending order of the importance of design attributes was "sorts of yarn", "sorts of color jacquard", "color", "tone", "ease", etc.
A Study on the Shape of Hem-line of Semi-Flare Skirts according to a Cutting Angle - Based on the Comparison between Real Clothing and 3D Virtual Clothing -
Koo, Mi-Ran ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 499~511
As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.
A Study on the IT Infrastructure of Korean Apparel Industry
Choi, In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 512~522
The purpose of this study is to analyze IT infrastructure of Korean apparel industry in order to enhance business effectiveness and customer's satisfaction in information society with global networks. For this study, the questionnaires were distributed to 57 apparel industries in Korea. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, descriptive statistics, Cronbach's alpha coefficient, multi regression analysis. The results of this study are as follow: First, Considering the apparel industry, construction of information system is essential for assistance of information policy and utilization of information. Understanding of e-business policy affects profits of suppliers. Second, Apparel industry with higher information policy has higher productivity with flexibility. Third, Apparel industry which has close relationship with suppliers has better customer support. Flexible scheduling and production line are important factors for quick response of customer's order and need.
Visual Evaluation of Retro-Romantic Fashion
Cho, Mal-Hee ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 3, 2009, Pages 523~534
The purpose of this study is to categorize the dimensions of the visual evaluation of the costume details of the retro romantic fashion and to research on the costume details and the visual evaluation by evaluators' gender, age, and major, and on their preferences. Quantitative research were conducted for this study. Based on the pictures, 10 costume details were selected for the survey questions and data were collected. All 446 subjects who participated in this research were college students(males and females) residing in or near Seoul. Data were collected in September, 2008. The collected data were statistically analyzed using SPSS which included: factor analysis, Cronbach's
reliability analysis, three-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range tests, and the t-test. The results of visual evaluation of retro romantic fashion are as follows: First, as a result of the factor analysis of the costume detail evaluation, five factors including attractiveness, decorativeness, cuteness, retro, and femininity surfaced. Second, the gender difference in the results of the research revealed that women rated decorative, cute, retro, and feminine characteristics higher than men did. Third, there were significant interactive effects in attractiveness and femininity depending on costume details and evaluators' gender. Fourth, subjects majoring in fashion valued attractiveness and femininity of the stimulus over non-fashion majoring subjects. Fifth, there were significant differences in the preferences of costume details depending on gender.