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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2009
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2009
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2009
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2009
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2009
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2009
Selecting the target year
Development of Fashion Design Depending on the Modern Woman's Contra-sexual Trend
Yang, Eun-Jin ; Lee, In-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 733~745
The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman's image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people's shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman's fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of 'Urban Splendor'. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman's image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman's fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman's fashion in the future.
A Study on the Marking Efficiency of Check-Patterned Shirts
Hong, Eun-Hee ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 746~757
This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern, width of materials, and marker orientation using man's shirts. To compare the marking efficiency of shirts, plain and check-patterned materials with the intervals of
were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on materials width, the highest efficiency was obtained with nap-either-way position of 150cm, plain materials and lowest efficiency with nap-one-way position of 150cm,
check-pattern materials. Regardless of the direction of marker position, the marking efficiency of 150cm width was higher than 110cm width in the plain,
check-pattern interval, but the marking efficiency of 110cm width was higher than 150cm width in the
check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and material width, the highest efficiency was obtained with nap-either-way position. And nap-up-and-down and nap-one-way follows next. Third, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, the efficiency of plain materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials. And increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. So the lowest efficiency was obtained with
check patterned materials.
A Study on the T-Panty Formativeness of the Contemporary Women's - Focused on the Domestic Market -
Yang, A-Rang ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 758~768
This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. The domestic formativeness of all styles is divided into three types: modern feminine, mono-bosom, and utopian narcissist image. This study is baseds on the documents study.
The Waist Dart Knitting Method of the Seamless Knit One-piece Dress
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 769~779
The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance aesthetic aspect and wearing satisfaction. For this study, four kinds of seamless knit one-pieces were implemented by different knitting method of waist dart each other. The inspection of the exterior and the sensory test of movement adaptability were included in this study. The results of this study were listed below. Exterior evaluation of the four samples results that the sample with outside narrowing and widening get low grade. Thus, we can see that the method having only outside narrowing and widening for waist shaping can cause problems. In addition to that, the sample with inside narrowing and widening get highest grade for almost all test items. The dressing evaluation results that the knitting method of waist dart affect only on the exterior but not on the movement adaptability of the seamless knit one-piece.
Uniform Design Development for School Advertisement - Focused on Ewha Womans University -
Lee, Min-Jung ; Kim, Hyun-Jung ; Lee, Un-Young ; Lee, In-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 780~790
The study analyzed the characteristic of school uniform, focusing on Ewha Woman's University of Seoul, reflected present trend as well as characteristic and symbol of school and developed uniform design for advertising Ewha Woman's University. The purpose of this study is to propose uniform that can be discriminated from that of other university and increase advertisement effect with mental superiority and pride in university by trying uniform design development, which can provide school and student with satisfaction, and reflecting present trend as well as characteristic and symbol of school. The study is meaningful because it can be basic materials for various uniform designs, connecting function, symbol and trend to uniform development. The uniform for school advertisement was manufactured in a way to reflect characteristic and image of school, escape from fixed idea preferring traditional design in the past and reflect trend. It is expected that the uniform created with symbolic image of school will give high advertisement effect and improve school image by providing student with sense of coherence and discriminated feeling in various events and the meeting with other school students. Moreover, the student wearing the uniform with splendid design will feel mental superiority and have pride in school at the same time. In conclusion, the uniform reflecting trend is proper for the uniform of advertisement helper representing school as long as it can reflect characteristic and image of school. It will be also helpful for developing wider design and more splendid uniform because the study can create the motive to apply trend to other uniform that does not adopt trend.
An Analysis of the Message on Internet Fashion Brand's Community - Focused on Brand Reneevon -
Son, Hee-Jung ; Yu, Ji-Hun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 791~806
Internet brand community's message makes significant contributions for fashion industry. Therefore, if we understand and implement the characteristics of the message on the Internet brand's community, it can be useful for future marketing strategy. This study was to classified the internet community and to examine messages with regard to direction, write motive and prior knowledge. The messages were taken from February, 20th, to August, 7th in 2008. Content analysis method was used for this study. The results were as follows: First, Fashion brand community divided into user initiative type and enterprise establishing type. Second, User initiative type had positive direction message more than enterprise establishing type had. Third, User initiative type had large volumes of information searching or sharing related message, but enterprise establishing type had large quantities of personal experience related message about write motive. Fourth, There was no difference numerical prior knowledge between user initiative type and enterprise establishing type, and then both had a high rate of prior knowledge.
Research on the Wearing Sensations and Satisfaction of High School Girls Uniforms' Summer Blouses
Koo, Bon-Joung ; Ryu, Sin-A ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 807~818
This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance, surveyed the students for their understanding of summer blouse. Experimental study's research method was questionnaire survey. By using questionnaires, the satisfaction and comfort of each region of the current worn summer blouse was analyzed. The results of this research are as follows. After surveying 371 high school students in the Daejeon region on the currently worn summer blouse comfort levels, 48.4% showed dissatisfaction about the width of the sleeves and the armpits and over 93% wanted the use of elastic materials as an alternative. After investigating the summer blouses' mending state, 41% of students that mending their clothes chose the alternation of reducing the overall silhouette of the blouse in all areas. This reflects the female high school students' mentality that thin body shape is the ideal.
Typology of Wholesalers in Dongdaemun Fashion Town according to Contractor Selection Criteria
Seo, Min-Jeong ; Lee, Ji-In ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 819~833
The current research focused on exploration of a well known Korean fashion and clothing industry cluster, Dongdaemun Fashion Town(DFT). Many clothing and fashion wholesalers in DFT with various business formats are trying to obtain competitive advantages. For the empirical study, a questionnaire was developed. Items measuring descriptive statistics for each business and contractor selection criteria were included in the survey. 161 data from Employees of various wholesalers of DFT were used for statistical analysis. Majority of DFT customers were buyers of Internet shopping malls and street retail shops. 64% of them used domestic contractors for sourcing products. Most of them managed less than three contractors. Contractor selection criteria were factorized as flexibility, production ability, stability, fame and location. Wholesalers were segmented into three groups: product oriented, flexibility oriented and stability oriented groups. Group differences in terms of business practices were assessed and strategic implications were included.
A Study on Research Trends in Clothing Construction in Korea - Based on Journal Publications from 2000 through 2008 -
Jeong, Hwa-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 834~848
The purpose of this study is to analyse the research trends and to find a future direction in the area of clothing construction in Korea. The data were included articles on clothing construction published in the five major journals from 2000 through 2008 in Korea. The identified 513 articles were categorized in eight areas: design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing and the others. In the results of examining the percentage of articles on clothing construction among articles published in each journal, the percentage of articles on clothing construction was highest as 21.2% in the Journal of Korean Home Economics and next, 19.3% in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture. As to the percentage of research on clothing construction according to theme, research on protective clothing and functional clothing were largest as 28.2%, and next, research on body types as 18.9%, and research on garment size systems as 10.5%. Research on protective clothing has increased remarkably since 2000, and particularly in 2004 it was so active that it occupied 44.1% of research on clothing construction. Next, with regard to the subjects of research, research with female subjects was more frequent than that with male subjects according to gender, and research with men and women in their twenties was most frequent according to age. These results show somewhat unbalanced tendencies in terms of research subjects.
Study of Fashion Design Applying the Formative Beauty of Architectural Works by Antoni Gaudi
Shin, Hyo-Jung ; Lee, Young-Min ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 849~865
This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.
A Study on the Measurement of Korean Hand - Focusing on Glove & Hand Dimension -
Ryu, Kyoung-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 866~877
The purpose of this study was to develop the dimension of hand pattern-making for Korean glove. The glove pattern-making has difficult problem in combination of anthropometric and engineering aspects. In addition, existing dimension data are not enough for glove pattern-making. Therefore, to develop the dimension for glove this study comprehensive list of candidate hand data was reviewed and the manufacturers(career over the 15 years) were interviewed on the method of glove. The result of comparing between the structures in hand and existing glove pattern, there draw deduction from follows. Pattern-making for glove need size of hand length, thumb length, index finger length, middle finger length, ring finger length, hand circumference, thumb-ring finger circumference and maximum hand thickness.
The Y Generation's Decision Factors of Purchasing Jeans in the United States
Hwang, Su-Jeong ; Lee, Jin-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 878~885
The Y generation born between 1981 and 1995 is the largest consumer group in the United States. This study is to provide an insight of understanding Y generation's decision factors of purchasing Jeans and the fit issues. This study investigated their purchasing decisions factors, including fit, cost, brand, color, and the media/internet influences. It is revealed that the Y generation might have access to the internet, but they still rely more on their peers and savvy skills to decide what they purchase. They preferred to shop from the land based retail stores rather than the internet. The fit was the most important factor of their purchasing decision, but less concerns of the brand. In this study, 87% of them chose "fit" as the reason to buy a pair of jeans. Fit problems were related to the price category. This study suggests apparel manufacturers should understand Y generation's fit issues in the global market.
A Study on Women's Clothing Design Adapted from Acjurumpo
Kim, Weol-Kye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 886~896
Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.
A Comparative Study on the Characteristics of Knitted Clothing Exports between Korea and China
Ji, Hye-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 897~910
Clothing exports of Korea have been steadily declining since 1990, but its international competitiveness will be continued in the future because of its history and technology. The purpose of this study is to find out the characteristics of knitted clothing exports of Korea compared to China. Statistical data of knitted clothing articles(HS 61)
were used for analyses. The results of the study were as follows: First, the proportion of knitted clothing export out of the total clothing export has been consistently increased in Korea and China both, it is similar now. Second, export articles of large proportion are different between Korea and China. Socks, gloves and fancy goods became major export articles in Korea and men's and women's clothing in China in late 2000's. Third, the unit price of Korean export clothing is higher than that of Chinese from two to ten times. Generally the growth rate of unit prices of Korea outpaced that of China. The results of this study will help Korean export firms to develop competitive export articles and make out export strategy.
Consumer Attitude toward Private Apparel Brands according to Internet Shopping
Park, Ha-Na ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 911~922
As more consumers shop online and prefer private label apparel products, the importance of private label apparel brand of Internet shopping malls are increasing. This study investigated consumer attitudes toward private label apparel brand of Internet shopping malls. Attitudes were conceptualized into two sub-factors: utilitarian and hedonic. Based on findings of prior studies, subjective norm and familiarity were included as antecedents to attitude variables. Purchase intention and word of mouth intention were also included as consequence variables of attitudes. Types of Online shopping malls were considered as moderating variable. For the empirical research, the Online survey was conducted. Young male and female consumers who have experience in Internet shopping of clothing products participated in the study. 429 questionnaire were used for the final statistical analysis. Results indicated that subjective norm had significant influence on consumer attitudes toward private label apparel brand. Familiarity however did not have significant influence on attitude variables for general internet shopping malls. For specialized Internet shopping malls, familiarity had significant influence only on hedonic attitude. Attitude variables had significant influence on purchase intention and word of mouth intention. Subjective norm and familiarity had significant influence on purchase intention and word of mouth intention.
A Study on Grotesquery Aesthetic Reflected Interculturalism in Stage Costume - The Case of Oh, Tae-seok's
Yang, Yong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 5, 2009, Pages 923~938
Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play
into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play
showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.