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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2009
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2009
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2009
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2009
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2009
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2009
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Somatotype Classified by the Drop Value of Middle-Aged Women
Yoon, Ji-Won ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 939~946
This study is to classify the shape of the body by means of the drop value of the middle-age women. Drop value is based on the circumstances of the body deciding the dimentions of the clothes. Therefore, the study based on the drop value seems to decided the measurement of the clothes in making mass production of ready made clothes. In order to put measure items on this study of the value on 'The fifth survey of body measure of Korean', select 785 people in middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. And considering the characteristic of upper-drop and lower-drop, and swelling belly by accumulated fat, selected five items(Bust Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Bust Circumstance, Waist Circumstance(Omphalion) - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance(Omphalion)). The result of the study is summarized as follows. Type 1, M type of the body showed the distribution of 32.5% and belonged to low body development style. The line of human body is the nearest of the four bodies in middle-age woman out of whole shapes of 4 types and the line of human body is close to middle-age woman. Type 2, X type of the body showed the distribution of 40.8% and the line of human body remarkably showed. Type 3, H type of the body showed the distribution of 12.4% and the line of human body appears least. This group was larger than any other group in having more fat in the belly above the circumstance of the hip than other groups. Type 4, Y type of the body showed the distribution of 14.4%. This type was upper half of body development style, waist was slender, and there was seldom the bend around the circumstance of belly and hip.
A Study on the T-Panty Formativeness of the Contemporary Women - Focused on the U.S.A., France, England and Japanese Market -
Yang, A-Rang ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 947~959
This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.
A Study on Jean Wear Consumer Behavior and Preference of Design/Styling of Women in Their 20's and 30's
Yoo, Myung-Jin ; Kim, Chil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 960~971
The purpose of this study was to observe street fashion, to determine preferred design of jean and to analyze preferred jean styling based on types of jean pants design, toward 20s to 30s women. We observed outfits of jean styles on the street using photography method and conducted a survey to 400 females to get information of consumers. Four hundred questionnaires were analyzed using SPSS. As a result of street research, the majority of people were wearing jean pants with T-shirts, sandal/high heel shoes and totes. The results of market research showed that preferred jean styles were significantly associated with age and marital status. Preferred color of jean pants was also significantly associated with age variable. Current popular jean style was a skinny style. We evaluated results of styling with different jean pants, creating five different images. There was a significant relationship between age/marital status and styling image in different jean styles. In a bootcut style, age variable was significantly associated with different styling images. Generally, most of people responded cute/casual image styling was the best for the bootcut style. In skinny pants, there was a significant association between a residence area and a styling image. Modern/chic image styling with skinny pants was the most favored one. In cropped jean pants, marital status was significantly associated with styling image created. We realized that we can create different images through a styling.
Development of Fashion Culture Goods Designs Motivated by Ume Flowers
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 972~980
This study was aimed to develop ume flower image into a competitive fashion culture product image by reinterpreting the image in modern terms, manufacturing patterns and applying them to various items. In terms of method, ume flower petal was used as a motive and developed into a pattern, using Adobe Illustrator 10, a computer design program. Based on the symbolic image and realist form of ume flower, three new basic motives of new figurative image were set using form omission, simplification, overlapping, repetition and graphic elements. Each motive developed transformed patterns through the change, transformation, combination of colors. The repetitive unit of each motive set expressed geometrical patterns and combination of flower patterns using pattern repetition and
repetition technique in combination with the check arrangement using quadrangle, and set the direction of design that would fit for each item of fashion culture products. Also, consistency and practicality were sought in the goods planning composition of each item by applying motive pattern results to the fashion culture goods, such as neckties, scarves, T-shirts that can be consumed in everyday life. It seems that more creative culture goods including ume flowers will be developed by seeing our own cultural elements as well as flower patterns like ume flower with modern trends.
A Study on the Pattern-making for Korean Glove - Focusing on Pattern-making for Glove -
Ryu, Kyoung-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 981~991
The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern-making for Korean glove. To develop the pattern-making for glove this study comprehensive list of candidate hand data was reviewed and the manufacturers(career over th 15 years) were interviewed on the method of glove. The results of regression analysis(hand data) were as follows (unit: cm): wrist thumb tip length = middle finger length + 3.22, hand bread = 1.25
middle finger length + 2.18, middle finger breadth at dist = 0.23
index finger circumference + 0.4, maximum hand circumference = 3.15
index finger circumference + 4.13, middle finger circumference = 0.91
index finger circumference + 0.47, maximum hand thickness = 0.69
index finger circumference -0.02. Hand measurements for glove pattern-making were developed: There were palmar hand length, hand circumference, index finger circumference and middle finger length.
A Study on Improvement of Gesture Function according to the Sleeve's Height and Existence of Elastic - Focused on Female High School Student's Summer Blouses -
Park, Kil-Soon ; Ryu, Sin-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 992~1008
This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance. For the experimental research 6 subjects with closest average body shapes and their body surface was measured at beginning and after selecting a representative movement the tested uniform was worn and the appearance and movement functionality was evaluated. The results of this research are as follows. In the research with the aims to improve the sleeve designed the height in 3 types as A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and their evaluation showed that in the order of best appearance was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, A.H/4+3. In the order of best comfort was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3, A.H/4+1 and the best order for movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Additional height types designed produced from elastic materials were A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the resulting order of appearance was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, order of comfort was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the order of movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Integrating these results shows that in using the same concurrent materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+2 was the best while in using elastic materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+3 was the best.
Men's Shirts Design Applying the Androgynous Image
Kang, Na-Na ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1009~1020
This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.
An Analysis of the Characteristic of Hybrid Hair Design in Fashion Collection
Kim, Kyoung-In ; Yoo, Young-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1021~1033
This study aimed to analyze the expression of Hybrid in Contemporary Hair Design that is one kind of total fashion. In this research, by background of the hybrid characteristics of the messes culture art, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design has been defined as characters which is the mixture of timeless spaces, styles, sexes, unsuitable elements and cultures. The results of analysis by the expression of the hybrid hair design after 2000 is like this. As the researching, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design by the mixture of unsuitable elements and styles have been presented the highest. The result of the frequency of the apparition in the hair design molding elements according to the expression of the hybrid hair design, the hybrid characteristics of the unsuitable elements and style has been presented ideological form and the artificial form was the highest. The case of the hybrid of the activated texture, the unsuitable elements, style and timeless space has been presented excellently one after another. In the color tone, the mixture of the style, the unsuitable elements and timeless space has been presented one by one. The case of the hybrid of the image, the unsuitable elements that is the highest the frequency of the apparition was presented the image of the avant-garde, the fantastic and humor one after another.
A Research on the Changes of Western Children's Clothing
Lee, Yun-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1034~1046
Based upon literature survey, this research aims to analyze western children's clothing and characteristics over centuries. It was not until the 18th century that children were given serious consideration and that fabrication of clothing began to be designed only for children. The very first clothes which revolutionized children's wear was 'a la matelot' in the 18th century which freed children from physical restriction, recognized gender difference, and sailor suit became popular among all sexes and adopted as school uniform. And then children's clothing was shortened in length and adopted tubular silhouette, which allowed greater comfort and movement. The 20th century saw children's wear reform to be carried out after the World War II due to invention of synthetic fiber, easy care dress material, mass production system and sophistication of marketing methods. Further evidence of improvement of children's social status can be found in contemporary designs: for example, 'casualized' wear, 'character design' which reflects children's psychology and 'family look' which is designed to be worn with mothers. This evolution of children's clothing within western dressing support the view that children's clothing is not a miniature of adult wear but it reflects idiosyncrasies of the era and exerts children's dignity.
Analysis of the Ethnic Style in Modern Fashion - Focused on Japanism Fashion -
Chung, Hyun-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1047~1058
Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.
The Sleeve Knitting Method of the Seamless Knit One-Piece Dress - Focused on the Bind-off Length at the Axilla -
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1059~1067
The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.
Purchasing Behavior and Evaluation Criteria on Hat Products
Kim, Cha-Hyun ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1068~1082
The purpose of this study was to investigate empirically the consumer behavior regarding the purchase of millinery items in relation to their evaluation criterion and demographic characteristics. The survey was carried out to 395 individuals in their 20s and over who were quota sampled according to age and gender. The collected data were statistically treated with the SPSS 12.0 program in terms of descriptive statistics, cross tabulation, t-test, one-way ANOVA, factor analysis, Cronbach's
coefficient and Duncan-test. The 20s and 50s over were more interested in hat products than other ages. Female consumers obtained the most information about hat products from store visits, TV and magazines. On the other hand, male consumers had it from the acquaintances and internet. Younger consumers more often utilized internet to have it. Their main purchase location was department stores. The younger purchased it more in traditional market, the older purchased it more in mega wholesale market or discount store. The consumers of hat products considered the intrinsic classification most when buying hats. The evaluation criteria employed by them were aesthetics, quality, and external attributes. Hat consumers were more concerned about aesthetics attributes than the other two criteria. Female consumers and consumers who are more interested in the hat and have a higher level of education and income considered aesthetics attributes most important.
The Study on the Costume of Art in the Russian Suprematism - Focused on Kasimir Malevich's Art Works -
Park, Yoon-Jeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1083~1098
The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.
Body Shapes of Aged Women Applying 3D Body Scan Data
Kim, Soo-A ; Choi, Hei-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1099~1111
The purpose of this study is to classify body shapes of aged women by using 3D body scan data. For the body shape analysis and classification, 3D body scan data of 270 aged women were used, and 16 main measurements consisting of a human body were used to conduct factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The analysis were performed on all 'the method using the absolute value', 'the method using index of height and weight', and 'the method using index of height', and according to the classification results, the method which categorizes body shapes best in terms of their shapes was adopted. As the factor analysis result using the numerical value of height to categorize the body shapes of the aged women, factor 1 was the thickness and width for the height, factor 2 was the height of the upper part of the body for the height, factor 3 was the height of hips for the height, and factor 4 was the height of belly for the height. When the body shapes were categorized with the deducted factors as variables, they were divided into two types. Type 1 was a short and fat body shape(
type) and 55.6% of the subjects were of this type. Type 2 was for the body shape whose vertical height, including weight, was long but all kinds of width and thickness were small, that is, tall and thin body shape(
type), and 44.4% of the aged women were in this case.
The Design Development of Man's Royal Costume in TV Historical Drama
Lee, Keum-Hee ; Lee, Hye-Lan ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1112~1128
The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama
and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.
Dyeing Properties of the Fabrics Dyed with Pine Needles Extract
Joen, Mi-Sun ; Park, Myung-Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1129~1140
The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at
, and with ethanol extract at
for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.
A Comparative Study on Obesity Judgment Indices for Body Characteristics Analysis in Korean Obese Women
Yi, Kyong-Hwa ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1141~1154
As a preliminary research of body characteristics analysis of Korean obese woman, this study aims to select optimal obesity judgment tools for reliable sampling of obese subjects from 2,425 female measurement data out of 2004 Size Korea project's raw data. From previous researches related to obesity, 7 obesity judgment tools were chosen. 2007 obesity rate(26.3%) of Korean female adults was refered in selecting optimal obesity judgment criteria in the study. The results are as follows. Firstly, it was verified that BMI was the most suitable in judging and sampling the obese subjects by the percentile analysis. R
hrer index was also reliable in grouping the obese subjects from a population. Secondly, it was concluded that the obesity ratios of relative weight 120 and higher group, R
hrer index 1.6 and higher group and waist girth 80cm and higher group were the most similar to obesity rate of Korean female adults by 2007 National Health & Nutrition Survey. Thirdly, 30 direct measurements, age, 2 drop values and 6 ratios of 7 groups by the obesity judgment tools showed the significance each other at p<0.001 level. On the other hand, "bust point to bust point" and "waist to hip length" measurements didn't show the significant differences among 7 groups. Conclusively, 4 to 5 satisfactions out of 7 obesity judgment criteria were adequate and sufficient in sampling the obese subjects. If it is needed the strict criteria for judging the obesity, 5 satisfactions and higher group will be the best choice as the obese subjects. However 4 satisfactions and higher group generally, will be adequate for sampling of the obese subjects.
A Study on the Acceptance of Wearable Computers based on the Extended Technology Acceptance Model
Lee, Hyun-Mee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 17, issue 6, 2009, Pages 1155~1172
Wearable computers can be defined as next generation clothing integrated with various digital functions and devices. Unlike existing computers, they are viewed as human-centric computers customized for information utilization and other specific human needs. This study is intended to discover how consumers are accepting wearable computers, which are different from existing computers, based on Technology Acceptance Model(TAM) and to extend the model by adding variable regarding acceptance of wearable computers. A total of 683 copies of questionnaires, distributed to those aged 19 and older, both male and female, were collected online. The data was statistically analyzed for this study using the extended TAM. In order to test hypotheses, the structural equation model using the Lisrel 8.30 version was performed. For analyzing constructs(or traits) of research model, exploratory factor was conducted and the measurement model was assessed from the result. Reliability was assessed through confirmatory factor analysis and the calculation of Cronbach's alpha coefficients. Overall, model fit was assessed by statistical indexes: Chi-square value, GFI, AGFI, and RMR. This study analyzed the process of acceptance of wearable computers with the extended TAM that includes a variable, perceived value, on the basis of previous studies. The results of the analysis revealed that attitude toward wearable computer was directly influenced by perceived usefulness and perceived value but indirectly influenced by perceived ease of use. Acceptance intention of the wearable computer was directly influenced by perceived value and attitude toward wearable computer. To be more specific, perceived usefulness was significantly correlated with both attitude toward wearable computer and acceptance intention of the wearable computer. Perceived value was also significantly correlated with both attitude toward wearable computer and acceptance intention of the wearable computer. The results of this study also suggested that perceived ease of use was actually a causal antecedent to perceived usefulness and perceived value. This research revealed that extended TAM to investigate the acceptance of wearable computer was appropriate. This study is intended to provide a theoretical framework for adoption of wearable computer and suggest empirical analysis that can serve as a guide for wearable computer.