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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 6 - Dec 2010
Volume 18, Issue 5 - Oct 2010
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Aug 2010
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jun 2010
Volume 18, Issue 2 - Apr 2010
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 2010
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Fashion Design Characteristics & Fashion Image of Gabrielle Chanel & Yohji Yamamoto
Ko, Soon-Young ; Park, Moon-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 789~808
The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.
Development of Party Fashion for Artygen
Jo, Un-Jo ; Lee, In-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 809~823
The 21st century is the age of culture and sensitivity. As the interest in the art and culture grows, Artygen who prefers artistic designs grow in number. The desire to enjoy life from the increase of leisure time and financial afford ability created a new trend of party culture. This study analyzes the characteristics of Artygen who pursues artistic sense and sensitivity and suggests party-wear designs that please Artygen and accentuate individuality and personal preferences in a party, which is a type of popular entertainment these days. Through literature review, the background of Artygen and party was examined; First, in order to analyze the feature of art designs, photos of products that were in fashion from 2007 to 2009, (during which the term, 'Artygen', was coined) were collected. Second, in order to analyze the party-wear designs, photos of party-wear in wine party and club party popular among young people in the 20~30's were collected. Through the analysis, the party-wears targeting Artygen was developed based on the characteristics of popular art designs. The results of this study were as follows. First, from the result of analyzing the art design shown in product, casual, romantic, modern, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Second, art design shown in fashion, casual, romantic, chic, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Third, in wine party, romantic, elegant, gorgeous and formal images were in order and in club party, casual, gorgeous, chic and romantic images were in order. Fourth, the study displayed design by connecting aesthetic factor of artistic design to 2 wine party-wear of romantic and gorgeous images and 3 club party dresses of casual, gorgeous and chic images.
A Critical Study about the Correlation between the Body without Organ and Blurring Boundary Fashion - Focusing on Philosophical and Sociological Discourses about the Body and the Desire -
Yang, Hee-Young ; Lee, Myung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 824~841
In 21st century, subordinated relationship of fashion from the body has been disappearing, and fashion is understood as variable and creative field. This research aims at analysis about the relationship between the body and fashion depending on the theories about the authority and the desire. So, this utilizes between theoretical study and empirical analysis. For concentrated study, research period limits from 2000 to the present time 2010. Contemporary body and fashion have being changed into various forms and values, become complex and de-territory. Especially, body is symbol of ambivalence eroticism that gives point to sexual property, and the object of fetishism and machine having a desire. This study's purpose draw a parallel with between the limits of contemporary body that couldn't be rid of the capital and desire, and the liberty of fashion that escape from the body's influence has being changed independent and fluid space. This research's results are as follow as; contemporary de-territory fashion is expressed as 1) symbol of the object and physical material property, 2) self-transcendental instrument fashion, 3) independent spatial molding, 4) de-centering fashion.
A Study on the Characteristics of Body Architecture as Social Structures Expressed in the Modern Fashion
Seo, Seung-Mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 842~856
The relationships between fashion and architecture have been interactive. Since the fashion has had the role to decide the structure type of urban environment, it is becoming the new sign of space boundary. This study searches the social and cultural characteristics of Nomadism and the relationships among all kinds of changing objects. After then, the module system characteristics are meditated by analyzing the composition method of module system in architecture. Moreover, the study examines the aesthetic values in the fashion and body architecture from artistic aspect. Based on the above discussion, the followings are the characteristics of body architecture as the social structures expressed in modern fashion. The liquidity is the fluid form of dynamic structures. It shows the extended space form which produces the continuity. The transformation is the variable structure by module system and it forms the diversified structural combination. The movement combines the controlling function to be able to regulate and move freely the body related objects. The convergence is the text combination interpenetrated mutually in enlarged space. Through this, the non-linear continuity and the access of the individual factors are shown.
Fashion Style of Homme Fatale Image Represented in the Trendy Teleplays of Korea
An, Hyun-Joo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 857~871
As the selective role model for the public and the creators of fashion style, the characters of homme fatale image presented in the Korean 'trendy' teleplays have significant influence on the audience. In this study, the concept of homme fatale, is defined, and the inherent meaning of this recent coinage(homme fatale) and the characteristics of the image are discussed. And then, the fashion styles classified into homme fatale image are exhaustively analyzed to find out the recent trends of men's fashion which represent the new masculine image and its meaning. According to the result of this analysis, the fashion styles of homme fatale image, which expresses the new image reflecting the traits of contemporary men, can be subdivided into traditional classic style, modern dandy style, easy casual style, and glam sexy style. Traditional classic style represents perfect masculine image with its dignity and formality, while modern dandy style expresses the modern, urban, elegant, and refined images. Easy casual style emphasizes the active and liberal image of men, and the glam sexy style tries to stress the sexual attractiveness of men. These fashion styles are important elements which express not only the characteristics, the social status, the jobs but also the psychology of the characters, and they present the various fashion styles expressing the masculine sexuality.
The Sustainable Green Fashion Marketing Strategies according to Classification of Green Fashion Marketing of Domestic Fashion Companies
Shin, Su-Yun ; Hong, Jung-Min ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 872~891
This study was an exploratory research to classify the types of green fashion marketing of the fashion companies in South Korea and analyse the present cases of each type. To analyse the current cases of green fashion marketing strategies, we researched all sorts of newspapers, magazines, publications of fashion companies, and web sites from 2008 to 2009. As a result, we categorized 5 types of green fashion marketing as follows ; eco-friendly fabrics (natural fabrics, recycled fabrics, biodegradable fabrics), re-use or re-form(reuse after cleaning and/or repairing and reformation through transformation and combination of raw materials), green certifications(ISO 14001, GOTS, OES, etc.), eco-friendly management and operation, and green marketing promotions. Based on the results, we proposed the green marketing strategies for fashion companies to progress toward the proper direction of green marketing. First of all, companies should escape from the narrow view point limited to the product itself. Then they have to focus on developing and execution of sustainable merchandising, manufacturing, logistics, and waste strategies.
Comparison of Torso Pattern Made by Draping and Flat Pattern Method - Based on the Comparison between 75A and 75D according to the Size of Breast -
Yoon, Ji-Hyun ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 892~907
The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.
The Development of Woman's Hanbok Textile Design Appling Korea Traditional Lotus Pattern
Hong, Jeong-Hwa ; Kim, Hye-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 908~922
The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.
Effect of Perceived Overseas Cosmetic Brand Personality on the Preference
Kim, Hyun-Hee ; Kim, Yong-Sook ; Lim, Mi-Ra ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 923~941
The purpose of this study examines women in 20s~30s who start applying adult makeup and are sensitive to cosmetics and makeup techniques to understand the influence of overseas cosmetic brands' personality on their preference to provide overseas cosmetic brands with unique personality marketing resources. The following summarize the findings of this study: first, overseas cosmetic brands' personality factors were aesthetics, performance, interest, competency, and boldness. Second, among imported brands, the most preferred brand was Christian Dior, followed by Bobbi Brown, Chanel, SK-II, and Estee Lauder. Third, the subjects preferred Chanel when they perceived its aesthetics, performance, and competency and Christian Dior when they perceived its aesthetics and performance and did not perceive its boldness as much. They preferred Estee Lauder when they perceived its aesthetics and competency and Bobbi Brown when they perceived its aesthetics, performance, and competency and did not perceive its boldness as much. In case of SK-II, they preferred it when they perceived its aesthetics, performance, interest, and competency.
A Proposal for RFID Chip Database of Magic Mirror's Total Fashion Coordination
Lee, Woon-Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 942~959
The Realization of Ubiquitous is achieved by magic mirror and it is required more concrete study to realize it's functionality. Especially its function of professional fashion co-ordinator for managing the appearance could be of further use. The Objective of this Study is to establish RFID chip data base to put into a computer for making use of the functionality of the magic mirror aiming at suggesting the available information on the total fashion co-ordination. I sought firstly the code with binary system determining the criteria of accessories to be input in a RFID chip. Secondly, as the image with cloth is an important element for the total fashion co-ordination, desired co-ordination among the emphasis, harmony, character, season and accent can be made selectable classifying into a limit element and a common element to extract the codes. Thirdly, necessary conditions were given to the generated codes using Visual C++ program of Microsoft and the extracted codes as per groups were compared and analyzed.
A Study on Cheollik, the Military Officials' Clothes, in the Joseon Dynasty
Keum, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 960~976
Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.
A Study on the Textuality Represented in Modern Fashion Photographs
Park, Mi-Joo ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 977~990
Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it.
A Behavioral Study of Cyworld Mini Homepage Users' Fashion Consciousness and Their Online Clothing Purchase Patterns in Relation to the Level of Self-disclosure
Kim, Yeon-Ji ; Kim, Chil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 991~1002
Nowadays, personal media is a new tool for communication as digital cameras and mobile phones are developing rapidly. We are concerned over Cyworld users who could have different personal characteristics which will influence on buying patterns in on line shopping behaviors. The purpose of this research was to observe fashion attitudes and purchase behavior of Cyworld mini homepage users, for establishing marketing strategies by understanding consumers. For this study, one line survey was used for 500 male and female subjects who are 20 to 40 years old. Only reliable 441 questionnaires were used for analysis. The SPSS program was used for frequency, K-means cluster, t test, and chi-square test. A total of 441 respondents were clustered on the basis of 8 item self-disclosure scale, using the K-means procedures. The results indicated that respondents were clustered into two segments; 267 respondents(active attitude towards self-disclosure) and 164 ones(not active). We examined fashion attitudes in mini home page and buying behavior by self-disclosed variable. Those who are involved actively in self expression and self-disclosure considered more fashion style and trend. The major motivates of web surfing was finding a good design, and good price. High self-disclosure group tends to search many shopping mall for right design and low self disclosure group tends to search them for the right price. High self-disclosure group tend to shop the fashion products more, while low self disclosure group tend to purchase books more through the internet. We realized that active group in self-disclosure purchased their clothing accidently when they visit Cyworld.
Rusty Images Applied Fashion Design - For Digital Textile Printing Method -
Yoon, Ji-Ill ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 1003~1016
The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.
The Interests, Application, and Learning Desire of Clothing Section in Technology.Home Economics Curriculum of Middle School
Kim, Tae-Hee ; Park, Myung-Ja ; Lee, Ji-Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 1017~1030
The purpose of this study is to investigate learning desire based on the interests, application of clothing and textiles in Technology Home Economics curriculum of middle school. For this research, a questionnaire survey was conducted to 404 middle school students living in Seoul and Kyunggi areas. The data was analyzed by frequency, descriptive statistics, Cronbach's
coefficient, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan-test using SPSS 14.0. The conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the perception of middle school student for Technology Home Economics was low. Students were interested not in the clothing and textile education but in getting dressed specially, and purchasing of clothes. Second, the more interested in the area of clothing and textiles, the higher is the application of apparels coordination, apparel purchase, and apparel management. And the more interested in the area of clothing and textiles, the higher is the desire in class contents. Therefore, teaching-learning methods should be developed to improve middle school students' interests, and applications in the clothing and textiles.
A Study on the Characters and Costumes in Fantasy Movies - With a Focus on the Mythic Characters -
Kim, Soo-Kyong ; Lee, In-Seung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 1031~1047
This study examines the conceptual characteristics of fantasy movies. It also studies the process of socio-cultural changes of the mythical images such as heroes, goddesses and the devil that have often become the centre of fantasy movie characters. This study further examines the features of each character that correspond to specific mythical images. The purpose of this research is to suggest the conceptual and aesthetic characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies, which were released since the year 2000. The followings are the results of the research: The conceptual characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies are summarized as representation of reality, allegory and symbols, horror, desire, deconstruction and metamorphosis, otherness and counter-cultural sentiments. The aesthetic characteristics of the costumes of fantasy movies are defined as typicality and symbolism, grotesqueness, sensuality, hybridization, and otherness. These characteristics are very interconnected. The costumes of heroic characters appearing in fantasy movies show strong side of standard while the costumes of the evil characters revealed the limit of dualistic point of worldview centered on West. Heroic characters show realistic and human side that reflects the ethos of the time. Negative characters such as the devil or witches, which were created in human imagination and emotion, become the dynamic force of fantasy movies through their deviant actions. Their clothes, with variety and hybridization, become the source of creativity expected in present society.
A Cross-Cultural Study on the Clothing Value between Korean and American College Students
Im, Sung-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 18, issue 5, 2010, Pages 1048~1061
The purpose of the study was to compare the culture and the clothing value between Korean and American college students, especially men. Also, this study was to analyze the culture effect on the clothing value. The survey was performed and 200 questionnaires were utilized for this study. The SPSS 12.0 was used to analyze the technical statistics like average, frequency, t-test, factor analysis, multiple regression analysis. The result showed, first, there were some 2 major cultural differences such as power distance and long-term orientation between Korean and American college men. Comparatively, Korean college men showed higher masculinity and lower power distance and long-term orientation. Second, there were differences in the clothing value aspect. Both of them considered the economic clothing value to be most important. Third, there were some differences in the clothing value because of the cultural differences. For Korean college men, there were masculinity and long term orientation that had an effect on the social and religious clothing values, however, for American college men, power distance, masculinity and long term orientation that had an effect on the social, religious, theoretical and economic values.