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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Actual Purchase Conditions and Post-Purchase Satisfaction for Clothing Made with Eco-friendly Fabric
Park, Young-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 1~18
The purpose of this study is to prepare the base for the development of the high value clothing products with eco-friendly fabric which become the conversation topic recently. In order to collect data, a questionnaire was used. The subject of survey was the adult women in from their 20's to 50's. The survey areas were Gyungnam, Busan, Ulsan, and Daegu in Korea. The questions were formed with the results of a preliminary investigation and the contents selectively revised the measurement tools used to the previous studies. To analyze the collected data,
2-test, t-test, ANOVA were carried out with SPSS. In the result of difference analysis of the actual purchase conditions according to demographic variables, the purchase motives, the purchase items, and the purchase information showed the significant difference according to the demographic variables except monthly income, and the purchase place showed the significant difference to all the demographic variables. The results of difference analysis of post-purchase satisfaction according to the demographic variables and the purchase items were as follows, The post-purchase satisfaction in price showed the significant difference according to age and monthly income. The one in design showed the significant difference according to educational level and occupation. The one in fashion showed the significant difference according to marriage or non-marriage, age, educational level and occupation. The one in the wearing sensation showed the significant difference according to marriage or nonmarriage, age, educational level, occupation. The one in transformation showed the significant difference according to educational level, monthly income, purchase item. The one in laundry and management convenience showed the significant difference according to monthly income and purchase item. Finally, the one in pollution level showed the significant difference according to age, monthly income, occupation, and purchase item.
The Tendency Analysis of Korean Traditional Textile Studies
Choi, Seung-Yeun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 19~30
The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.
A Study on Fitness and Satisfaction of Ready-made Jackets for College Sportsmen
Lee, Bo-Na ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 31~41
Jacket is popular ready-made garment among college students in their early 20s. However, ready-made jackets, which are designed to fit normal people, are not likely to fit sportsmen well who have highly developed muscles in particular parts of their bodies. And muscle development is quite different among sportsmen according to the types of sports and bodily movements. Therefore, ready-made jackets can not be expected to fit sportsmen well as they fit normal people who have different shapes of bodies from sportsmen. The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors of fitness and comfortableness of jackets for sportsmen in their early 20s according to the types of sports to provide basic data for designing suitable garments for them. Research method, 362 college sportsmen in their early 20s were surveyed from June 2nd 2009 to June 9th 2009, and 360 of them were processed statistically, with 2 of them having been discarded for lack of sincerity. Among Taekwondo players, Arm Length was the most complained part, among wrestlers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among fencers, 'Waist Circumference' was the most complained part, among swimmers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among apparatus gymnast, 'Hip Circumference' was the most complained part, among track athletes and handball players, more than 20% answered that the jackets did not fit them in every parts. It was understood that different sportsmen complained of particular parts of the jackets and that parts of the jacket should be adjusted according to bodily shapes of different sportsmen. This study was made to investigate the factors to be considered in producing ready-made jackets for college sportsmen. It is hoped that more patterns will be developed on the basis of the original form of jacket and the result of this study.
A Study on Donning and Doffing Independence of the Person with Disabilities on Upper-limbs
Shin, Se-Mi ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 42~53
The purpose of this study was to investigate donning and doffing independence of the disabled individuals. The subjects of this study were who had kinetic disabilities on upper-limbs. 31 women and 38 children were participated in the survey. They were classified with six groups according to their upper-limbs' kinetic ability levels. Three upper-limbs' kinetic abilities were adopted: Lifting arms up to the chest, twisting shoulder to throw arms toward the back, and buttoning clothes by oneself. The independency of donning and doffing of 14 upper-body garment styles were evaluated by subjects. The donning and doffing independency of 14 garment styles was significantly differentiated by the level of kinetic abilities and garment styles. The person who able to button clothes by oneself could don and doff clothes by oneself. The results also revealed that the independency of donning and doffing was significantly different between cerebral palsy and apoplexy groups. The persons having a stroke of apoplexy were more likely to be able to dress independently than the persons with cerebral palsy. The persons with a paralysed arm were more likely able to wear ready-to-wear clothes of various styles. The donning and doffing independency was also significantly differentiated by the styles of garments. The tight fit style garments were more difficult to be dressed independently than the loose fit style garments. The jacket and shirts, which were buttoned from neck to bottom, were more difficult to be dressed independently than T-shirts.
The Influence of Celebrity and Celebrity Fashion on Contemporary Fashion
Kim, So-Ra ; Lee, Keum-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 54~70
The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of celebrity and celebrity fashion on contemporary fashion. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning fashion, culture, and history were used for theoretical background and visual data from magazine, news paper, and internet were used for actual study. The results of this study are as follows. First, the celebrity is the figure who shows their attractive appearance and status using major cultural contents on the basis of the various media and visual culture, and has secured a solid foothold as the source of fashion and an indispensable factor of fashion industry. Second, the celebrity fashion, a creature of mass media, set a powerful fashion trend along with the media, and increasingly plays mayor roles in the society and culture. Third, the combination of celebrity and fashion has come into the brightest spotlight as the serious business of today, and bring about a tremendous industrial ripple effect extensively.
Expression Techniques and Characteristics of Leather in Contemporary Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 71~82
This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.
A Study on the Production System of Stage Costume for Theatre 'Picasso's Women'
Kim, Young-Sam ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 83~95
Today, a variety performance premiered in Korea, works of art as an advanced production planning and production system is becoming. Accordingly, the field of stage costume also increased collaboration with foreign producers and production systems and the advancement of the stage costume are required are becoming. The opening performance of the 30th anniversary of the Seoul Theater Festival was selected as Towol Theater Theater in 2009, April 16 to 26 of Picasso's women's costume is the study of production systems. This work directing and stage design by inviting domestic producers from foreign fields, and co-authored the work in the field of stage costumes in collaboration with foreign producers that are worth study and research work. In this study, this work has a practical study of costumes throughout the production system, an advanced stage costumes to contribute to the development of the field. The research methodology book data, collected papers, Internet resources through research and theoretical studies play 'Picasso's women's stage production of the award total to an empirical study was undertaken. The results of this study are as follows. First, the costume director for making a scholarly grasp of the direction of the investigation is ongoing throughout the process of creating the costumes. Second, foreign producers and co-author of the stage when the award, if other than purely domestic producers and create costumes to build production systems. Third, foreign producers and co-costume design and costume making coherent explanation for the processing of the list(Costume Breakdown List) are developed. Fourth, the actual performance over the director's intention to visualize the presentation was good enough, and the idea of the costume crew was taken to the director's idea of directing a play that reflected the will has a big meaning.
Dyeing Properties and Ultraviolet-cut Ability of Dyed Fabrics with Petasites japonicus Extract
Choi, In-Ryu ; Joen, Mi-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 96~103
It is well known that the Petasites japonicus has been used for a long time medicine for the treatment of allergic diseases such as lacquer poisoning. However, the exact components and dyeing properties of its effects is still not known. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability of silk and nylon fabrics that was dyed variously with the Petasites japonicus. The Petasites japonicus extract was done by boiling with distilled water at
for 1 hour. As mordanting agent, we used Aluminum potassium sulfate (
), Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate (
), Iron(II)Chloride (
). The best K/S value of dyeing temperature and time, all the fabrics were
, 90min. Silk fabric was dyed yellow(0.8Y 7.6/2.2) and nylon fabric was dyed reddish yellow(10.1 YR 7.4/3.0). Silk fabric and nylon fabric was changed greenish yellow on mordanting with
respectively. And the colorfastness of washing and dry-cleaning was improved by using mordanting agent(4~5 grade). Ultraviolet-cut ability(UV-B) was showed more 90% in dyed nylon fabrics.
A Study on the Women Political Leaders' Fashion Style for Role Enactment - Focusing on Yulia Tymoshenko -
Yang, Sook-Hi ; Cho, Youn-Yung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 104~118
Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.
Formative Characteristics of Multifunctional Eco-friendly Fashion Design
Na, Eun-Mi ; Kim, Sae-Bom ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 119~127
This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.
A Study on the Costume Designs of Arts in the Italian & Russian Avant-Garde - Focused on Futurism and Constructivism -
Park, Yoon-Jeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 128~149
This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.
Formative Characteristics of Magazine Advertisement in Eco-friendly Cosmetics
Kim, Myoung-Lee ; Je, Gi-Yeon ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 150~162
Personal health and environment is being aimed recently to show increase in preferences of eco-friendly cosmetics with longing of clean nature, and environment on pure plant ingredients. This study has the purpose of inquiring components and types of magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics and to analyze the model characteristics. The standards of analysis were classified as product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors, image, and eco-friendly factors. The results of this study are as follow. First, in inquiring the general characteristics of the magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics, the results were shown as the order of attention on product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors, image and eco-friendly factors. Second, in inquiring the components and types of magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics, the results showed an attentive difference in product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors and eco-friendly factors. Third, in inquiring relationships of model characteristics between domestic and foreign eco-friendly cosmetics, the results showed lots of domestic cosmetics advertising direct advertising, product type emerged was a lot of character type emerged. International cosmetics advertising, indirect advertising and highlighting the many articles that appeared prominently type is characterized.
Quality Factor and Quality Improvement Attributes on Knitted Apparel
Park, Jae-Ok ; Ahn, Min-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 163~175
The purposes of this study are to identify quality factors of knitwears, to find out important attributes of knitwears quality, and to find attributes of knitwears quality which improvement are required. College students in the Seoul district participated in the study, a convenience sampling method was used. A questionnaires was arranged with three separates subject sections, importance degree of knitwears quality, satisfaction degree of purchased knitwears, and demographic factors. Data from 280 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. For data analysis, factor analysis, paired-samples t-test and multiple response frequency were conducted. The results were as follows. Knitwears quality factors were classified into six subdivisions by factor analysis; physical functions, yarn and fabric properties, fit, symbol, aesthetic, and usefulness. Quality attributes in purchasing knitwears were considered importantly in order of design, textures, color, price, size, and shape stability, etc. Among quality attributes on knitwears, there were significant differences in importance degree and satisfaction degree; important degree was higher than satisfaction degree to six factors on knitwears quality. Especially, in graph according to gap analysis, physical function and symbol were included in IV area, attributes that attention, required of quality improvement. In contrast, yarn and fabric properties, fit, aesthetic, and usefulness were included in I area, strengths, maintained presently quality levels.
Torso Body-Type Classification of Korean Women in Their Early Twenties
Shin, Jang-Hee ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 176~190
Today's young generation in digital era has a rich education environment and convenient life, on the other hand, there was negative impact on growth as normal body type because of adverse impact on an excessive study and insufficient exercise, etc. Also, for these people in IT culture generation, using small mobile including computer for long time is becoming main issue as changing factor in posture and body type in terms of spine like their neck disc. This body-typed characteristic reaches to normal adult body type in the process of physical development of adult woman and has least modification in body type. Therefore, despite of early young generation, body suitability of upper body clothes might caused imbalance. So, for intended to early 20s women, to design clothes with consideration on imbalance of body type by bended and curved spine, body type studies about size of upper body and forms are needed. As this researcher measured the body type of early 20s college women in metropolitan area, changes in body type of young generation with use of digital equipment recently were recognized since straight body type was decreased unequally and had characteristic in terms of changes to be bended body type. The changes of these body type should be considered to make clothes. Also, since there are some restrictions on this research objects in terms of local and numbers of measured objects, a broad interpretation of result on this research should be really careful.
Survey on Purchase and Fitting of Menswear Suits according to Styles for Consumers in Their 30s
Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 191~199
The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended to give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers' satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed to slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers' desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.
Housewives' Recognition of Usefulness and Application of Home Economics Curriculum Educated in High School
Yoon, Jung-Hwa ; Lee, Ji-Yeon ; Park, Myung-Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 200~213
The purpose of this study is to investigate the usefulness and application of home economics curriculum to housewives. For this research, a survey was conducted using questionnaires against 427 housewives living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, and other provinces. The data analysis of this study was verified by frequency, mean, t-test, and Cronbach's
coefficient by using SPSS 12.0 program. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, more than 88% of the housewives recognize that home economics curriculum is necessary. Second, as for the areas of the usefulness and application of home economics curriculum, housewives recognize the "family and child" area was most useful, followed by "food, nutrition & cookery", "consumer and family financial management", "housing and residential interior design", and "clothing care, apparel design and making" areas. Third, the better perceive the housewives think of the home economics curriculum, the higher is the appreciation of the curriculum. Based on this research, home economics curriculum was proved very important and necessary in everyday life for housewives.
Study of Clothing Purchase Behavior and Fit of Middle and Elderly Women
Row, Young ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 214~229
The purpose of this study is to find strategic methods of quality management for customer satisfaction when developing clothing for middle and elderly women. For this study was middle and elderly women who were living in Seoul and Kyonggi-do. SPSS 11.5 statistical program was used for data analysis and to conduct factor analysis, reliability verification, paired-sample t-test, frequency analysis and percentage. The result were as follows; First, middle and elderly women's behavioral characteristic in purchasing clothing, the average price of formal suit was 700 thousand won and the time for purchasing was less than 3 months. They tended to purchase mostly by themselves on their own, and they purchase their own formal suit. Second, The body parts that influence the fit the most are in the order of waist circumference, shoulder width, chest circumference. Third, Regarding the difference of importance and satisfaction on the fit by body part that the middle and elderly women by body part, there was no significant different in neck circumference and shoulder swerve. Overweighing middle and elderly women showed difference in importance and satisfaction on all body parts. Underweighing middle-aged to aged women showed a significant difference in importance and satisfaction in the order of circumference of hips. Fourth, middle-aged women in 50s showed higher importance than satisfaction in the order of waist circumference, and elderly women in 60s should higher importance than satisfaction in rise length, jacket length. Aged women in 70s and above should significant difference only in the height of collar.
The Aesthetic Value and Art-media's Characteristics as Appeared in Contemporary Digital Fashion
Cho, So-Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 1, 2011, Pages 230~243
In this modern digital era, there are very vigorous arguments about digital and media aesthetics throughout culture and art on the basis of new transferring of recognition about the art-media's characteristics. Therefore, this paper tries to discover the art-media's characteristics and aesthetic value that are included in contemporary digital fashion through studying the fusion between digital and fashion. The purpose of this research is to offer positive and evolutive opportunity of artistic thinking to make the meeting between fashion and media suggest the future generation, adaptation and recognition in the media - developmental environment that will be deeper and more fueling. In the area of research method, this paper takes the method of theoretical research by referring national and foreign literatures and preceding research-papers, and carries out investigation and analysis about digital fashion for the last 10 years. The results of this study; The art-media's characteristics of modern digital fashion are virtuality, immateriality and characteristics of multimedia. The aesthetic values can be classified with four kinds of properties. First is hybridity initiated from multi-media that creates works; the second is infinite reproductivity initiated from the characteristics of the multi media and the digital carrier. Thirdly, there is also interactivity appeared all over the area of production, adaptation and perception caused by non-linearity and immateriality. Finally there is synesthesia that can extend the capability of sense through digital media.