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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
A Development of the Uniform Pattern for Obese Junior-High School Girls from Virtual Garment Simulation
Lim, Ji-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 245~254
The purpose of this study was to develop uniform pattern of obese junior-high school girls by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new uniform pattern considered obese junior-high school girls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows; bust girth=B/2+2.5, armhole depth=B/4, front waist girth=W/4+1.8, back waist girth=W/4+1, front hip girth=H/4+1, back hip girth=H/4+1, chest width=chest width+1.5, back width=back width+1 and back neck width 8cm. Second, according to the results of the new uniform pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new uniform pattern is appropriate for the obese junior-high school girls. Also, new uniform pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.
A Study on the Image of Adult Foundations
Lee, Hyo-Jin ; Yang, A-Rang ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 255~268
This study carefully explored today's preferable beauty images, analyzed Korean adult purchasing trends of functional underwear and market analysis of the most popular items and their designs. Information and methods are based largely on reference book material as well as analysis of real domestic data. The paper's research timeline simply spans the last three years, as in accordance with project parameters. Helping improve body shape, foundation literally means 'substructur' and 'base'. The formativeness in these adult foundations typically has three main category classifications. First, natural modern image. This is where we find natural beauty including that which embodies a cool modern sense. Here, you can often see such patterns as either stripes and dots, or simply no patterns at all. Colors are green, red-brown, incarnadine, or khaki from a natural or basic human body color. Its products are marketed as both solid and durable eco-friendly materials, and lace-seethrough. Fashion's natural modern image is undoubtedly the most popular style purchase choice among both genders. Second, sweet romantic image. This mainly consists of two concepts : a sweet and romantic theme, and visual appeal. Patterns include flowers, lips, heart, stars, candies and various other appealing characters. Its main colors are pink, yellow, red, purple, and violet. Products are decorated with laces, frills and ribbons. Since only men's semi-girdles carry such designs, this fashion foundation is largely a women's world. While men show an obvious interest in foundation, they still mostly prefer the choice of natural modern images. Third, mystic sexy image. This is defined as all feminine images of mysterious and classic sexual beauty. Patterns are variously expressed as paisley, flowers, and geometric. Colors are largely purple, blue-green, royal-blue, cobalt, and black. Products are commonly decorated with beading, spangles, hot-fixes and so on. While this image can be found in all kinds of women's foundations, it typically appears only in men's corsets and girdles.
A Study on the Consumer Satisfaction of Expectance, Performance, Post-purchase Behavior toward Jeans Wear between Korea and The United States
Park, Soo-Kyeong ; Lim, Sook-Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 269~282
The purpose of this study was to compare consumer satisfaction by analyzing importance on characteristics of clothing, performance, and their inconsistency between Korea and the United States. The data was collected by using a survey based on three sages of pre-tests, and main survey conducted in The U.S and Korea. Data of 520 participants from each country (260 males and 260 females) was used. The results of this study is as follows: First, both consumers in Korea and U.S. showed five factors such as aesthetics/trend, body shape, practical use/wearing, care, and distorted. In performance factor of Korean students was consisted of wearing/care, aesthetics, body shape, distorted, and trend/symbolism while that of American students was consisted of wearing, aesthetics, body shape, trend/image factor, and distorted. Second, regarding importance rate, aesthetics/trend, practical use/wearing, care, and distorted affected satisfaction of Korean students whereas aesthetics/trend factor affected satisfaction of American students. Regarding performance, body shape factor, distorted, trend/symbolic affected satisfaction of Korean students whereas trend/image affected satisfaction of American students. Third, satisfaction of Korean and American students influenced re-purchase intention and positive word-of-mouth, so proved to be the result variable of satisfaction. By understanding the differences between consumers in Korea and U.S., apparel importers and exporters may develop effective business strategies to better fulfill their customers' needs and desires, and therefore, increase their profit.
Interchange with Art Contained in the Works of Yves Saint Laurent
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 283~295
This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.
The Characteristics of Qipao Design in Contemporary Fashion Design - Focused on Women's Collections from 2000 to 2009 -
Ryu, Shang ; Jang, Jung-Im ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 296~308
The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.
A Study on the Nail Discoloration of the Polish
Lee, Young-Suk ; Park, Young-Seon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 309~315
Due to rapid growth of nail art industry, various materials and expression tools are have been developed. Increasing number of consumers favor diverse nail art techniques including painting and artificial tips in addition to basic care such as cuticle trimming or coloring. Accordingly, the diversity of polish colors has been settled as a concept of total fashion in addition to the clothes and accessories. As the result, nails may be damaged or discolored. A study the nail discoloration by using polish was purposed that contribute to the development of nail protective products. The tests were conducted with 20 college students for six months from March 3 to Aug. 28, 2009, using digital camera as the measurement apparatus. The students were classified into two groups which applied bright polish (white, beige, pink series) and dark polish (purple, blue, black series), and then divided into the groups applied and not applied the base coat which is known to be effective in preventing nail discoloration, and the groups applied and not applied tonic. The students applied polish for one week, and removed the polish with remover and photographed to examine the degree of nail discoloration. Dark colored polished resulted in earlier coloration and discoloration than the bright colored ones. Base coat could prevent coloration and the color changes of hyponychium and eponychium were lighter than the cases not applied with base coat. Tonic could delay coloration and reduced the color changes of hyponychium showing that tonic was effective for preventing coloration and discoloration of nail in addition to nutrition.
An Investigation into Three Dimensional Mutable 'Living' Textile Materials and Environments (2)
Kim, Ki-Hoon ; Suh, Ji-Sung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 316~323
This research aim concerns questioning how we can generate environments suggestive of nature fused with built environments through textiles. Through literature reviews and experiments with available the 3D imaging techniques of Holography, Lenticular and other new technologies. We also have researched towards finding the most effective method for 3D imaging techniques for textile applications. The advantage of the combining technique is to create the possibility of seeing a number of different floating 3D illusory images, depending on the viewing angle. This objective is to produce intriguing textile patterns and images in which the objects and colours change as viewpoints change. Experimental work was carried out in collaboration with professional textile researchers, scientists, artists and designers conducting research in this field.
A Study on Dyeability of Cotton Fabrics using Ginseng Extracts
Kim, Wol-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 324~333
This study was accomplished for the purpose of developing a textile processing ingredient that is harmless to the human body and environment. The research method consists of dyeing cotton textiles by extracting the dye solution from ginseng. Then, chrominance, after treatment, antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio of cotton fabrics dyed with ginseng extracts were tested and results were examined. The research procedure involved first extracting the dye solution from the ginseng's by-product (fine roots) and then dyeing was effectuated differently according to the test samples temperature and dyeing time requirements. Brightness in all dye substances was lower in pre-mordanting. Beige color could be extracted from pre-mordanted samples. And dark orange from postmordanted samples. Color-festness was high in all samples. Most of samples show a big antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio. Through this research it has been discovered that, when applied to textiles, Korea's ginseng extract possessed reproducibility features as a natural dye and a possibility to be used in cutting which plays a crucial role in hygienic processing. In addition, by using ginseng's by-product for dyeing processing as the dye solution, efficient application of resources and occurrences of no water waste damages were demonstrated and thus, proved to be environmentally-friendly. Specifically, through this experiment, it was found that saponin, ginseng's special characteristics, possessed excellent antibacterial odor repelling functions to clothing as well as the capability to prevent skin disease.
Physical Properties of Knitted Fabrics on Knitting Structure for Medical Compression Garments
Park, Myung-Ja ; Sang, Jeong-Seon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 334~345
A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.
Students' Behavioral Patterns for Purchasing Their Casual Upper Garments through Online Shopping
Cho, Hyun-Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 346~359
The purpose of this study was to examine students' reasons and standards for purchasing their casual upper garments through online shoppin. A questionnaire composed of 26 items in five-point Likert type (14 items for measuring reasons, and 12 items for measuring standards for their purchase) was administered. The subjects were 422 male and female students attending middle schools, high schools and colleges located in the metropolitan region of Daegu. For a statistical analysis, a
two way ANOVA design (3 levels of schools: middle school, high school and college and 2 sexes: male and female) was involved, and Turkey's HFD multiple comparisons were made. The results showed that the reasons for students' purchasing casual upper garments through online shopping malls were as follows: quality, availability of discount coupons and points, other benefits such as special promotions, gifts, the easy return of goods and refunds, and also no trial of wearing shirts even at off-line stores. Significant differences in purchasing reasons through online shopping were found among middle schoo, high school and college students. There were also significant differences between male and female students mostly found in three variations of purchasing reasons: ease of availability of garments in contemporary fashion, convenient shopping without any restriction on time, and the decision to purchase with help from consumers' recommendations. Significant differences among middle school, high school and college students were found in the following standards for the students' decision to purchase their casual upper garments through online shopping: affordability, color, design, style, payment safety, and ease of maintenance (cleaning and ironing). Differences between male and female students were found to be significant in the following categories: affordability, fashionable, brand name, free delivery, product quality, coordination with other clothes, and consumers' recommendations on the products concerned.
An Exploratory Study for Dividing Fashion Product Buyers
Kim, Yeon-Hee ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 360~375
The fashion market focuses on consumers and maximizes consumers' satisfaction. The fashion market has been segmented to better satisfy the variety of consumer group. Although market segmentation has been studied, efficiency and effectiveness of market segmentation continuously bring problems. Also, problems of prediction about real consumer behavior, and efficiency and effectiveness of standards are pointed out. The purpose of this study is to determine the most important variables for dividing fashion product buyers. This study was designed as qualitative study and in-depth interview was conducted. The in-depth interview was conducted with five experts in fashion intelligence agency. In-depth interview was completed by an analytic induction and an investigator triangulation. Questions were about characteristics, demographic characteristics, important factors and fashion buying relationship, and interests of current clothing shoppers. The results of qualitative research demonstrated that clothing shoppers, with their valuable consumption and selective buying behaviors, seek differentiated products. They also long for high quality apparel for its price, because of their valuable consumption and price centered tendency. They illustrated active sides, such as enthusiastic information searching and emotional or experiential consumption, rather than attitudinal sides. The variables for dividing fashion product buyers included: "innovative seeking", "symbolic seeking", "personalized seeking", "quality-seeking", "selective seeking", "price-seeking", "utility-seeking", "hedonic seeking", "sensitive seeking", "brand-seeking", "digital seeking", "information-seeking", and "eco-seeking".
Research on Dyeing Crafts of Chinese Indigo Dyed Designs
Lee, Min-Jeong ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 376~388
The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.
The Study on the Necklace Coordination which is Classified by Fashion Image Characteristics
Bae, Jung-Who ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 389~401
Jewelry is not only symbolic meaning of the fortune, but also it completes or redound to fashion style and its image in this modern times which diverse culture live together. The instinct for adornment which is long as human cultures is developed as Artwork genuinely to show effective self-expression that is aesthetic and distinguished. It would be from that it made by using metallic materials. In contemporary fashion, jewelry takes so much importance that it sets the trend. They carry a sensible message that expresses esthetic desire and originality. Among the so many kinds of jewelry, especially the necklace is located beneath the face and linked as a part of fashion, so it frequently has showed in Fashion Collection, We tend to study the effect of that the form, hue and character of materials of necklace that is expressed in fashion collection influence fashion image. The method of this study is comprised with precedent studies and analysis of necklace photos in fashion collection. For the analysis of data, we implement content analysis and statistical analysis using SPAW Statistics 18. As the result, fashion and jewelry effect interactively and share esthetic forms, in the view of total image necklace image is more strong than fashion image. Because the hue and the form of necklace take a great role to make fashion image with the sense of its eyesight, its effective coordination go up the delicate feelings of the fashion. So, it is very effective things that we predict the trend of fashion, then, coordinate with well-matched necklace.
The Ideologies Expressed on African-American Hair-styles
Chang, Mee-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 402~415
The purpose of this study is to research the ideologies of African-American hair-styles according to cultural phenomena. This is a qualitative research using the books and theses about society, culture, hair and beauty, and materials of internet. The results are; Firstly, African-Americans are citizens or residents of the United States who have origins in any of the black populations of Africa. About 75 percent of the dark-skinned people on this continent have hair labeled "kinky". Secondly, African hair-styles expressed Supernaturalism and Traditionalism in the formative period of African culture. African-American hair-styles reflected Colonialism in the period of slaves. African-American citizen's hair-styles showed Nationalism after 1960s' Black Pride Movement in the period of settlement in America, and expressed De-territorialism since the boom of 1970s' Reggae. Today, the wearing of dreadlocks, cornrows, and afros has transcended racial and religious barriers. No longer necessarily reflections of ancient traditions and cultural identification, they are just as often fashion items.
Effects of the Musical Characteristic Change of 'Hip-hop' Culture on Popular Fashion
Park, Han-Him ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 416~429
Most of precedent studies related to hip hop culture and fashion, which have been conducted till now were progressed under only theoretical background of hiphop, not the changed status of hiphop currently. Practical studies explaining the status of hip hop in popular culture, especially, the area of popular fashion are insufficient. Therefore, this study was conducted by focusing on cultural characteristics and musical characteristics by the stream of period, for which concept hip hop is accepted to people currently and which effect it makes on the area of fashion. Especially, the study was progressed by dividing periodical background into before and after the 2000s because there was the most noticeable change for the genre of hip hop in that period. Because of the appearance of 'Alternative hip hop' which is a sub-genre of hip hop music, hip hop music was changed to be more popular. Also, hip hop fashion also showed big changes. Hip hop fashion before 2000s had showed poor conditions, resistance, complex and alienation of them by their fashion. On the other hand, hip hop fashion after 2000s also showed popular characteristics because of high-level environment and social status. This study intended to understand and grasp hip hop as a kind of cultural situation coexisted by many-sided characteristics as well as redefine the changed concept and contents of new hip hop currently.
Stereotype Femininity Expressed in Fashion Illustration
Lee, Kyung-Ah ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 2, 2011, Pages 430~448
This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late
century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late
century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.