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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
Apparel Sizing System for Obese Men in There 20s
Yoon, Ji-Won ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 449~459
The purpose of this study is investigate the feature of the body shape of obese males and to propose a new apparel sizing system considering the body size of obese men through an the analysis of the body measurement of obese men in their twenties as reported in the 'Fifth Korean National Physical Standard Reports'. For this study, a new apparel sizing system for casual wear was proposed for obese men in their twenties after a body measurement of 159 obese men in their 20s with a BMI of 25 and over as reported in the 'Fifth Korean National Physical Standard Reports' conducted by SIZEKOREA. This study sought to investigate the features of obese men's bodies by comparing the body shape between obese men and ordinary men. The result of shows that width, depth and circumference items influencing the width size when producing clothes are larger in the case of an obese body shape than an ordinary body shape, and that the stature, total length, arm length and outside leg length influencing the length size are similar between an obese body shape and an ordinary body shape. Therefore, it was confirmed that an apparel sizing system specializing in clothes for obese customers is required. As a result of this study of the features of body shape, the control dimensions for such an apparel sizing system were determined to be the stature and chest circumference of upper garments and the stature and waist circumference(omphalion) for lower garments. The interval between the sizes was 5cm for the stature and was irregular for the chest and waste circumference. Consequently, 8 sizes were proposed for upper garments and 9 sizes were proposed for lower garments.
Use of Traditional Mask Images in Design Development for Fashion-Cultural Products
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 460~472
This paper developed motifs through the use of images of masks with which the Korean innate consciousness of aesthetics is expressed. The motifs were applied to fashion items. This paper investigated the concept, origin and types of traditional masks through the existing literature. Using the computer graphic programs of Illustrator and Photoshop CS2, three basic motifs were set from the images of the nobleman, Bune of Hahoi Tal and Byeongsan Tal. Each motif was extended into two motifs by changing shape and color. For the basic motif design, this study sought to express contemporary images, suitably for each fashion item, while maintaining the basic shape of the masks and their traditional images. In addition, this study set the concept of the design so that could be accepted by various age groups. For the design of handkerchiefs, a rotating array, involving enlargement, reduction, repetition, and the gradation of motifs, as well as a diagonal symmetric array, and all-over patterns were developed. The T-shirt design created here was divided into a half-sleeve box type, a round neckline sleeveless type, a V-neckline close-fitting sleeveless type, and a V-neckline close-fitting cap sleeve type. For the design of necklaces, OLED or LED, which are considered as a future display type, was used. Additionally, the production of an entertainment styled new atmosphere is proposed.
An Analysis of Posthuman's Body Type and Fashion in SF Movies
Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 473~487
The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type and fashion of posthuman in SF movies. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, internet web site, fashion books and so forth. The results were as follows: The body types of posthuman were expressed as mutation type, prosthetic type, clone type by biological hybrid or renovation and digital type by computer simulation. The mutation type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a black tailored suit, leather jacket, cat suit, whip, black sunglass, garter belt, high heel shoes, short pants, black one piece dress and functional body suit. The prosthetic type was expressed as reinforcement of body functions and reinforcement of masculinity or feminity. The fashion item was expressed as a military item, high-tech power suit and ergonomic armor suit. The clone type was expressed as the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a power shoulder jacket, fake fur coat, vinyl, black see-through look and functional suit. The digital type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a data suit, leather jacket, black over coat, boots, black sun glass, ethnic items and military items. The meanings of posthuman fashion in SF movies were impurity of posthuman, display of superhuman's power by sexuality, metaphor of power and fantasy of superhero in opposition futuristic dystopia. As mentioned above, posthuman body type and fashion in SF movies become the conversational topic in the real world. The fact that we think about utopia and identity of posthuman in the future is of great significance.
A Study of Deformation Depicted on Moschino's Collection -Focusing on 2006～2010 Year Collection-
Lee, Jee-Yeon ; Cho, Jean-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 488~500
]is one of the most important cultural factor which puts people at ease and gives a sense of security. This study, in the process, analyzes the works of Moschino. Moschino's designs are rated to have approached the sublime when it comes to transforming the psychological anxiety of everyday living into a laughter. After selecting one hundred-two of Moschino's designs from the Internet Web site(www.cft.or.kr, www.samsungdesign.net), this study examines and analyzes the characteristics and types of deformation found in them. The result as follows. The examination of deformation found in Moschino designs can be classified into a transformation, distortion, exaggeration, and illusion. Transformation, a conscious change of the existing form or function, was shown as the change of an existing position, form, function and designation of a new function. Distortion, an interpretation away from the reality or a "wrong interpretation," was shown by placing opposing factors in left-right position as an extreme asymmetry. Exaggeration, always beyond the realm of reality, was shown thorough an enlargement or a magnification of a specific part and a repetition of a detail factors. Illusion, through a distortion of reality results in something that looks new, was expressed through the effects of wearing a two-pieces, an expression of details, effects of wearing accessories, and an expression of a dynamism. Therefore, Moschino has reflected the desire of homo modern to transform the existing situation through many techniques of deformation.
Comparison of Perspectives on the Body and Dress in Korean and Western Traditional Costumes
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 501~517
This study investigates the concept of the body in Korean traditional costume by comparing the traditional costumes of the west and those of Korea while focusing on the relationship between the body and dress. In order to make a comparison of the traditional perspectives on the body in western and Korean costumes, this study examines the literature of history, art, medicine, philosophy as well as dress from the mid-fourteenth century to the nineteenth century pertaining to the west and those of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Western dress assumes apparent formal structures and pursues overall harmony via the completeness of its entities, while traditional Korean dress subordinates the parts to the whole, emphasizing the organic total. Whereas the proportion of bodily structure is stressed in western traditional costume, in Korean costume the body is perceived as a whole. By revealing the body through the three dimensionalities of dress, the focus on the erogenous body parts is shifting in conventional western dress according to changes in aesthetic consciousness, which reflects the western ideas of objectiveness and self-centeredness. In traditional Korean dress, in the space between the body and dress, the emphasis is on planarization of the dress, which assumes the oriental relationship-centeredness concept.
A Study on Fashion Illustration Applied using a Blending Mode in Photoshop
Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 518~530
Based on the development of digital technology, Photoshop as a computer graphics program has extended its range of application to creative techniques that can express the contemporary sense of fashion illustration. Thus, the objectives of this study are to seek a new technique of fashion illustration through a study of computer graphics programs required for vitalization in this digital era and to present the application. This is done after a literature review and empirical investigation. For the literature review, specialty publications with precedent studies related to the subject of this study are examined, and internet materials with related key words are sought to establish the reference data for the study. For the empirical investigation, cases of each expression for blending mode are examined to seek the correct means of fashion illustration. Five works are created as a result. The specific contents of this study are as follows: First, the types and characteristics of blending mode are examined. Second, cases in which the blending mode is applied are analyzed to seek insight into their utilization. Third, five works are created by applying the blending mode to present the result.
A Study on the Purchasing Practice for Standardization System for Purchasing School Uniforms
Lim, Ji-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 531~541
This study suggests basic data for the standardization of school uniform purchase by examining the statistics of purchasing practice school uniforms from information sources, purchasing methods, and consumer' perception about collaborative purchases. A survey was conducted with first grade male and female middle-school students, and their parents. A total of 344 questionnaires were returned and analyzed. The results were as follows: first, when making purchases, information sources were explained by parents, friends, senior students, or workers at uniform shops. The purchasing methods were popular brand uniforms or specialized uniform shops. Second, four factors were extracted from purchasing data for factor analysis. The factors were comfort, appearance, service, other external factors, and promotions. Third, the perception analysis and need of collaborative purchases were indicated by 90% of the students' parents, who were aware of collaborative purchase. Additionally, 71.2% answered collaborative purchase was necessary. Fourth, for future uniform purchases, 75.6% of the students answered to buy more popular brands, or products from specialized school uniform shops, while 54.4% of the parents answered positively to collaborative purchases. The results of the examination of consumer school uniform purchasing behavior will provide useful strategies for the standardization system for purchasing school uniforms.
Analysis of Design for Domestic Internet Shopping Malls Party Wear Design Development
O, Ji-Hye ; Lee, In-Seong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 542~555
Internet shopping malls have rapidly developed within the economic recession due to changed lifestyle according to digitalization. Furthermore, customers in the 20~30s, the main consumer base of internet shopping malls in Korea, have begun to enjoy the new cultural trend of party culture, thus creating a new fashion market combining party and fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of internet party-wear shopping malls to provide guidelines and to present basic data for design development of party-wear in internet shopping malls. Research method was used by combining literary research with empirical research of analyzing design by capturing pictures of internet party-wear shopping malls. The following conclusion was drawn from research results. First, Party-wear consumption of internet shopping malls is increasing along with the increased sales of clothing fashion products of internet shopping malls. Second, design analysis results regarding 11 internet shopping malls selling party-wear was presented that consumer emotion and trend were combined according to distinct characteristics to display romantic style, romantic style mixed with modern or casual characteristics, sexy, and etc. Third, dress was presented as the most common item with 52.3% in item analysis executed on 588 pictures captured in 11 shopping malls. Ribbon was shown as the most common detail and trimming item, with 28.7%, and corsage and frills were each presented as 13%.
Effect of Characteristics and Texture of Sight and Touch on the Tactile Preferences for the Black Fabrics
Kim, Yeo-Won ; Choi, Jong-Myoung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 556~564
The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch on the tactile preferences for the black fabrics. Male and female university students were asked to evaluate the texture of sight and touch and tactile preference to the nine different black fabrics which were selected on the basis of the previous research results. Data were analyzed by using frequency analysis, mean, factor analysis, t-test, F-test, correlation and regression analysis. The texture of sight and touch for black fabrics was classified into four factors: smoothness, bulkiness, extensibility, firmness. This texture of sight and touch factors showed a significant correlative relationship to the structural properties and color characteristics of the black fabrics. There were significant differences according to black fabrics on the point of texture of sight and touch. The velvet was evaluated the most smooth fabric, while the velvet and fake leather were evaluated the most bulky fabrics. Also, the jersey and lace fabrics were evaluated the most extensible fabrics, while the melton was evaluated as the most firm fabrics. There were significant correlative relationships not only between the structural properties and the texture of sight and touch but also between the color characteristics and the texture for black fabrics. Also, among the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch of black fabrics, major variable factor of influencing on the tactile preference was turned out to be the texture of sight and touch.
The Effect of Emotional Experience with Korea's Low-Price Cosmetic Brands on Brand Relationship
Kim, Sung-Eun ; Chung, Myung-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 565~578
The purpose of this study was to examine the emotional experience dimension on the brand of the low price cosmetics and to empirically investigate the effect of emotional experience on the relationship between customers and brand. Data were collected for 10 days starting on March
2009. Questionnaires were distributed to 517 female college students who experienced to purchase the products of the low price cosmetic brand and answers were collected. The results of analysis on collected data showed that the emotional experience was classified into sense, spatial environmental emotion, sales promotion emotion, salesperson emotion and visual/verbal identity, and emotional experience on low price cosmetic brand had a positive effect on the relationship between customer and brand. Specifically, it was showed that emotional experience on low price cosmetic brand significantly affected the customer satisfaction, brand trust and brand attachment. In terms of effect of emotional experience on customer satisfaction, the orders in the degree of influence were following: the sense, spatial environmental emotion, sale promotion emotion and salesperson emotions. In terms of effect of emotional experience on brand trust, the orders in the degree of influence were following: the sense, salesperson emotions, sale promotion emotion and spatial environmental emotion. In terms of effect of emotional experience on brand attachment, the orders in the degree of influence were following: the sense, spatial environmental emotion, salesperson emotions, visual/verbal identity and sale promotion emotion.
An Analysis of Figure Skating Costumes In Relation to the Musical Accompaniment
Kim, Sung-Eun ; Chung, Hyun-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 579~596
As a sport with artistic characteristics, figure skating draws upon important elements such as costumes, music, melody interpretation, and choreography. The combination of figure skating music and costume is an important influence on scoring, moreover, it forms some images and characteristics of the athlete. The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the correlation between figure skating music and costumes. The study mostly focuses on the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, such as the Winter World Figure Skating Championships, Four Continents Figure Skating Championships, Grand Prix of Figure Skating Final and gala shows of a single female and male and female pairs, ice dances of the medalists. The concepts and characteristics of figure skating music were examined collected the literature quotes internet sites, photos and video, clips through the homepage and internet sites. Focusing on the medalists of the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, following the analysis results of figure skating by genre of music, the differences among classical music, pop music, movie music, musical music, folk music have been classified, and according to the features of music genres, the differences of items, colors, details and accessories of clothing were brought out. Depending on the features of music genres, figure skating costumes have been changed of items, colors, materials, details and accessories. Thus, the close correlation between the story of figure skating music and atmosphere has been analyzed. This study contributes to improve the completion of programs which is completed through the development of figure skating costumes design that is regarded specially for the artistic value.
Development of a Pattern and Visual Image for a One-Piece Dress using a 3D Virtual Clothing System
Uh, Mi-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 597~611
The purpose of this study is to propose a design method for one-piece dress patterns with high body fitness through an appearance evaluation of one-piece dress patterns with the application of the 3D Virtual Clothing System known as i-designer. Measures consisted of an optical illusion effect in visual imagery and mutual influence according to a change in the length and princess line, in a silhouette of a one-piece dress. The data was assessed by a t-test and a multi-way ANOVA and factor analysis using SPSS 17.0. The results were as follows; The design of the study pattern was done by modifying the ease of the bust circumference, ease of the abdominal circumference, ease of the hip circumference, the position of the side seam line, and the appearance of horizontality in the hem line, which received a low evaluation in appearance evaluations of a one-piece dress pattern. As a result of analyzing the visual image according to a change in the length and princess line, in the form of a silhouette of a one-piece dress, four factors were selected; the whole-body optical illusion factor, the upper-body optical illusion factor, the bust optical illusion factor, and the lower-body optical illusion factor. As a result of analyzing the effect of the interaction in the visual image according to the design variables, the influence of the main effect was found to be great in each factor. In the upper-body optical illusion factor, a significant difference was not noted in the two-way interaction between the length and the princess line. However, the influence on three-way interaction among the length, princess line, and silhouette was significant.
Study on the Development of Practical Application of Indigo Dyes
Lee, Sang-Phil ; Kim, Soon-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 612~621
The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at
. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water, without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.
Brand Images of Children's Wear and Mother's Purchase Intention -Focus on Self-Image Congruence and Behavioral Intention Model-
Kim, Ji-Yeon ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 622~636
The purpose of this study was to assess the effects of self-image congruence on attitudes toward purchase intentions of children's clothing via the Behavioral Intention Model. The empirical study was conducted via on-line survey and data were collected from mothers with children aged 6 to 10 years. A total of 593 respondents answered the questionnaire and 574 usable data were statistically analyzed. SPSS 18.0 was used to conduct descriptive statistical analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, cluster analysis, Chi-square test, ANOVA, and multiple regressions. A K-means cluster analysis was conducted based on three dimensions brand images of children's wear. Respondents were divided into four groups: elegant image group, multiple image group, ordinary image group, and childlike image group. Characteristics of consumers and clothing evaluative criteria that mothers considered important differed significantly across groups. Moreover, based on these groups, each dimension of self-congruence had different effects on brand attitude. Brand attitude and subjective norms had different effects on purchase intentions. In conclusion, levels of self-congruence and factors influencing purchase intention varied according to brand images of children's wear.
A Study on the Strategy of the Environment-friendly Fashion Marketing Mixes
Kim, Min-Kyung ; Yu, Ji-Hun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 637~649
Environmental protection has become more important than ever because of increasing environmental pollution and abnormal climatic changes caused by the depletion of resources from industrial activities. Fashion products can create various environmental pollutants during the production process. Since they are in direct contact with the body, the environment-friendly features for the fashion industry will become increasingly important and the necessity to execute a detailed study regarding the environment-friendly fashion marketing will also become increasingly important. The purpose of this study was to segment the levels of environment-friendly fashion marketing mixes, that analyze the relationship between consumer decision-making factors and purchasing intentions. We propose effective several marketing strategies. A total of 457 questionnaires were analyzed using frequency analysis, t-tests, correlation analysis, regression analysis, and ANOVA in SPSS. The results are as follows: First, environment-friendly fashion products were segmented into four groups, environment-friendly materials, environment-friendly production, environment-friendly management, and recycling/ disuse of products. Second, the promotion of environment-friendly fashion products were highly ranked, followed by materials used, distribution methods, and production management. Third, women considered usage, management, and price for environment-friendly fashion products as more important than men did. Finally, a total of 39.4% of the respondents had purchased environment-friendly fashion products, with a preference to buy environment-friendly underwear, outerwear, bags, shoes, and accessories. By establishing and executing the environment-friendly fashion marketing mixes, fashion companies execute successful marketing activities in both domestic and international markets.
Effect of Color Sensibility Evaluation of Clothing Product on Attitude toward Product in On-line and Off-line -Focusing on White T-Shirt-
Yoh, Eun-Ah ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 3, 2011, Pages 650~660
Purpose of this study is to explore: 1) the difference in color sensibility evaluation, color attractiveness, and attitude toward the product, 2) the difference in the effect of color sensibility evaluation on color attractiveness, and 3) the difference in the effect of color sensibility evaluation on attitude toward the product between the identical clothing product presented in on-line and off-line settings. Experimental method was applied with 230 male and female university students using stimuli of an on-line site as well as an off-line window display presenting the same white t-shirts. Color sensibility factors of white t-shirt were hedonic, stimulating, active, and spatial senses. These color sensibility factors of the clothing product affected product color attractiveness as well as attitude toward the product. Although there were not differences in color sensibility evaluation, product attractiveness, and attitude toward the product between items presented in on-line and off-line settings, difference was found in the effect of color sensibility on the color attractiveness and attitude toward the product. The effect of color sensibility on color attractiveness and attitude toward the product was stronger in on-line than in off-line setting. Hedonic sense was the most important factor influencing attractiveness of product color and attitude toward the product. In addition, spatial sense affected attractiveness of product color in on-line setting; and stimulating sense impacted attitude toward the product in off-line setting. Based on the results implications were generated.