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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Contemporary Fashion using Camouflage Patterns
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 661~673
This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.
A Study on the Development of T-Shirt Pattern using Circular Knit - For Women in Early Twenties -
Park, Kyeong-Soon ; Park, Sun-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 674~696
Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.
Study of Shirt Design Utilizing Hangeul Typography
Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 697~711
As the superiority of Hangeul becomes known globally, design products utilizing a Hangeul motif are gaining attention in international markets. Accordingly, the interest in Hangeul typography is also increasing. Visual and formative designers are actively developing typographies, as typographies have limitless development potential as a type of formative expression for communication. Accordingly, this study will encompass the spirit, value and beauty of Hangeul in fashion design. The purpose of study is to demonstrate how to express the greatest amount of the beauty of the Korean language for the general public and how to utilize such expressions in various areas. The detailed content of this study is as following. First, the functionality and expression characteristics of typography will be understood by exploring the concept of typography and reviewing the design cases utilizing typography. Second, cases that utilized Hangeul typography will be reviewed and their types and issues will be identified. Third, the design direction will be set based on above exploration. Finally, four design works utilizing Hangeul typography will be suggested as the study result. Accordingly, this study applied Hangeul typography on the shirt design and attempted to contribute to the practical use of Hangeul in everyday living through design products.
The Types and Characteristics of Decorative Techniques Applied to the Korean Traditional Skirt of Contemporary Style - Focusing on 2001 to 2010 -
Ok, Myung-Sun ; Park, Ok-Lyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 712~722
The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of decorative techniques applied to the Korean traditional skirt of contemporary style. For the purpose, this researcher selected 167 pieces of Korean traditional skirts which were shown in relevant monthly magazines published between 2001 and 2010. Then, the researcher classified the types of decorative techniques found in those selected pieces and analyzed the characteristics of decoration technique for each area of the pieces and the characteristics of patterns used in relation to those techniques. The Korean traditional skirt, otherwise called 'Hanbok chima', was classified into two types, single and composite, in accordance with which technique of decoration was used to it. The single type was characterized by so many embroideries, while the composite type, a combination of two decorative techniques, seonchigi and jatmulim. In the Korean traditional skirt, decorative techniques were applied to the knotting and entire of the skirt. Patterns used to decorate the Korean traditional skirt were usually in form of embroidery, gold or silver foil or painting. Out of the patterns, those which were embroidered or painted were shaped flowers, while those which were plated with gold or silver are shaped bosangdangchomun and flowers. There were other decorative techniques than mentioned above, for example, applying two or more different colors to the hem of the skirt, attaching pads to the knotting of the skirt and padding a decorative cloth on the front center of the skirt.
Male Body Image Appearing on the Western Men's Costume in the Baroque Era
Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 723~739
This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.
The Effects of Job Satisfaction and Organizational and Job Commitment on Sale Goal Orientation - Focused on Small and Medium-sized City of Jeollanam-do -
Lee, Ok-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 740~750
Employees of sales departments of apparel makers play an important role in the success of a fashion-related business because they provide service through the direct contact with customers. This research tests several hypothesized relationships between internal marketing and its determinants, such as job satisfaction and organizational and job commitment, along with sales goal orientation. The subjects in this study were salespeople who worked at fashion stores in Yeosu and Sunchon. To measure the hypotheses, 200 questionnaires were handed out and 185 were collected. Finally, 163 questionnaires were used for the analysis, as 22 were found to be invalid. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and multiple regression techniques were used after coding and cleaning the data with the software SPSS 18.0. It was found that job satisfaction in the subjects is affected by organizational and job commitment and by their sales goal orientation. Second, it was found that both organizational and job commitment have a significant impact on sales goal orientation. According the results of this study, the higher the salesperson's job satisfaction, the higher the organizational and job commitment are. This was also true for their sales goal orientation. Moreover, higher organizational and job commitment was correlated with a stronger sales goal orientation. On the basis of the results, marketing strategies related to personal management can be established.
Knit Design using Trencadis Images They Appeared in Antony Gaudi's Work
Yoo, Jae-Young ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 751~765
The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.
The Effect of Self-Monitoring and Self-Consciousness to Cosmetic Attitude
Lee, Ji-Young ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 766~779
The purpose of this study is to find the levels of self-monitoring, self-consciousness and cosmetic attitude of female university students and to analyze the relationship between the levels of self-monitoring, self-consciousness and cosmetic attitude in an effort to strengthen external human beauty. The respondents were 264 university women attending a university Chung-Cheong Province in Korea. In this study, a questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire consisted of SMS(self-monitoring scale), the(self-consciousness scale), and a measurement of the cosmetic attitude. Earlier studies were used to create the measuring instruments with some adjustments for the purpose of this research. Factorial analysis, correlation analysis, multiple regression analysis were carried out with SPSS 18.0. The cosmetic attitude consisted of four factors, and those factors were related to self-monitoring and self-consciousness. The Four factors were happiness with change, manners to others, the instrument of change, and conformity. It was found that the cosmetic attitude reflected the personal internal mental states; hence, the cosmetic attitude was used as method to express the internal mind. Determining the correlations between self-monitoring, self-consciousness and the cosmetic attitude was useful in understanding the personal peculiarity of the cosmetic attitude. Moreover, in the cosmetic industry, it is likely meaningful to investigate the capability whether the variables of self-monitoring and self-consciousness can be applied in an effort to understand consumers' internal character.
Hong Kong Chinese Breast Cathexis and Brassiere Design Preferences
Cha, Su-Joung ; Shin, Kristina ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 780~793
This study investigates the breast cathexis and brassiere design preferences of Chinese citizens living in Hong Kong in order to provide marketing intelligence for bra manufacturers whose target customers are from this group of potential customers. A questionnaire composed of questions concerning breast shape evaluations, brassiere design preferences, and brassiere purchase and wear practices was administered to 165 Hong Kong Chinese female undergraduates(N=165). For an analysis of our data, we used the SPSS program(version 14.0). The results indicate that a majority of Hong Kong Chinese female undergraduates perceive their breasts as 'slightly smaller than normal' (n=59, 35.8%) or 'normal'(n=78, 47.3%) in volume, and 'conical'(n=77, 46.7%) or 'flat'(n=46, 27.9%). The results also suggest that Hong Kong Chinese women possess positive breast cathexis, with only a third of the respondents reporting dissatisfaction with their breasts. Women with dome-shaped breasts expressed the most positive breast cathexis, followed by those with cone-shaped breasts. The results also show that Hong Kong Chinese typically purchase 2 brassieres per year, which is a lower purchasing rate than their counterparts in Korea(Cha & Sohn, 2010) and Taiwan(ICT Life Style Research Center, 2004). The findings also demonstrate that the preferred brassiere color is black(57%), unlike in Korea, where women prefer skin-colored brassieres.
A Study of the Color Characteristics of the Websites of Sportswear Brands'
Moon, Ji-Young ; Kim, Ji-Yeon ; Cho, Ju-Yeon ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 794~804
With increases in the amount of spare time by many and with increased social interest in health, the sportswear market is steadily growing. Thus, sportswear companies are putting more effort into developing their websites for differentiation strategies. It is possible to deliver effective images with the use of proper colors in websites. This study aimed to analyze the colors of websites of sportswear brands' and to compare their characteristics. Thirty-seven brands were chosen and classified into three groups: active sportswear, outdoor wear and golf wear. 168 color samples in total as main colors, sub-colors and accent colors were collected from the first screen of each websites. The colors were analyzed by Musell's 10 hues and by the 12 tone classifications of PCCS. The results indicated that white is the color most often used as the main color and sub-color on these websites. There were differences among the colors of the three groups. Both active sportswear and outdoor wear have a similar tendency in terms of their use of colors and tones, while golf wear is different from these two groups. Active sportswear websites and outdoor wear websites frequently used red and vivid, bright tones for their accent colors. In comparison, Green Yellow and light grayish tones were most commonly used as accent colors in golf wear websites.
A Study on the Characteristics of Fluid Form Expressed in the Modern Fashion
Seo, Seung-Mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 805~819
In contemporary society, heterotopia is the law dominates thoughts and is the concept reconstituted spaces calls order in chaos. And that is the place which refuses the paradoxical and social custom and sometimes poses a danger and rise in rebel. The purpose of this study is to study how forms of clothing fluid form images are expressed in modern fashion develop body around in the spatial relationship between the body and its environment. The study method consider changed characterastics of fluid space through the heterotopia thinking system of Foucault Michel. Based on this method, the heterotopia space that appeared in the plastic arts in aspects of artistic significance and aesthetic value was examined. Based on the above discussion on modern fashion Fluid Form were expressed in any formative characteristics were considered. The results of this study are as follows. Fluidity is the transformed interaction. It expanded external representation of organic body structure and reconstructed flexible forms of dynamic structures continuously. Transformation is the new space structure. It constructed invisible transformation and developed convertible dress space by combining a variety of functional overlap and fold. Deconstruction was expressed structural forms, expanding the existing forms in the open structure which have ambiguous boundaries.
A Study of the Development of Formal Pants Patterns for Women in Their 20s and 30s with Lower-body Obesity
Ha, Hee-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 820~835
The purpose of this study is to provide a basic pattern to assist in the development of formal pants that reflect the physical characteristics of women with lower-body obesity. The subjects selected for this study were women in their 20s and 30s with a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The experimental pants patterns were developed by varying the waist line position, the waist ease, the ease in the hip area, the crotch length, the front and rear crotch width, the leg width, and the total length. Data analysis was performed using the SPSS statistics program(version 18.0). To verify the difference, this study used a variance analysis and Duncan's test. The conclusions drawn by the study are as follows. To reflect the form element of an abdomen with fatty deposits, the waist circumference should have an ease of 2cm. The front waist result was W/4+0.5cm+0.75cm and the rear waist result was W/4-0.5cm+0.25cm. The hip circumference showed a total ease of 4.5cm. The front hip result was H/4+0.75cm and the rear hip result was H/4+1.5cm. The crotch width set to H/16-1cm and the applied rear crotch width was H/16+2cm. The rear hip area was given more ease to reflect the protrusion of the hip. Along the line extending from the knee area to the crotch line, the outer seam line was designed with a gradual S-shaped curve to accommodate the protrusion from the maximum thigh width.
The Irrealistic Characteristics Represented in Modern Fashion Photographs - Based on Nelson Goodman's Ways of Worldmaking -
Park, Mi-Joo ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 836~850
The modern fashion photograph is interpreted as diverse versions via individual perspectives and thus induces meaning as individuals compose diverse worlds. The researcher perceived the act of reading the significance of the modern fashion photograph from the aspect of the diverse worlds that the receivers comprise, and the researcher sought to highlight this with the ways of worldmaking, as in Nelson Goodman's concept of irrealism. This study sought the transitional structure of the significance of fashion photographs through the irrealism of Goodman and theoretically considered the way in which the worldmaking was organized. The study collected fashion photos shown in fashion magazines and fashion brand catalogs from 2005 to 2010 for a study of the precedent theories and a survey of photographic materials to select characteristics based on Goodman's Ways of Worldmaking. Goodman suggested the five ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, deletion and supplementation, and ordering as the ways of worldmaking. The composition and decomposition way leads to habit and perpetuation due to existing concepts or intimateness. It can also be considered that the composition and the decomposition way occur coincidentally with other ways due to the previous worlds in which users connote during the process through which the fashion photos were composed and decomposed, deformed, weighted, and ordered. Therefore, this study researched the four ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, and ordering by integrating them into fashion photos based on the five types of ways reviewed through a theoretical consideration.
Paper Manipulation Techniques for Garments and Their Characteristics
Kim, Yong-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 851~862
The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.
Study of the Clothing Behavior and Fiber Preferences of Multicultural Families
Choi, In-Ryu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 863~875
The purpose of this study was to survey the clothing behavior, care and the fiber preferences of multi-cultural families living in Korea. The data was collected using questionnaire surveys based on pre-tests, and a main survey conducted in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province and Chungcheong Province. The 258 participants came from 151 multi-cultural families and 107 Korean families. The results of this study were as follows: First, Filipinos owned more clothes than the Chinese and bought clothes more frequently. The Filipinos spent 10,000~30,000 Korean won on all types of clothing. Each time, the Chinese spent more money when purchasing jackets. Second, when health was the greatest concern for underclothes, they chose cotton fiber as their preferred fiber. When beauty was of greatest concern for blouses they chose cotton. When beauty was of greatest concern for skirts and jackets they chose natural fibers such as silk, wool or linen. Filipinos preferred synthetic fibers because they are easy to care for, and the Chinese preferred natural fibers due to their beauty, especially for pants. Third, multi-cultural families laundered at home using only a washing machine. All fibers were laundered together into the washer without any sorting. This study can contribute to providing basic data for an understanding of the clothing behavior and laundry styles of multi-cultural families which may be useful data in the apparel market in Korea given the relative and direct changes relevant to various clothing cultures.
Classification of Foot Types for a Shoes Size System for Women in Their 20~30s according to a Survey of Hand-Made Shoes Companies
Kim, Son-Hee ; Kim, Hye-Soo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 4, 2011, Pages 876~887
The purpose of this study was to determine the fundamental foot measurement data that is essential for a shoes size system of women in their 20~30s according to a survey of Korean hand-made shoes companies. This research on the current situation of shoes companies was done by interviewing and surveying employees of these companies. The subjects for this study were 407 women in their 20s~30s who lived in a metropolitan area, and who wanted to enhance their foot health and prevent injury with a proper shoes size system. They were measured with the 3D scan method in use of 6th Size Korea. The result of this study showed that there is considerable dissatisfaction related to women's shoes and the current foot size system using foot length. The Korean hand-made shoes companies assessed here did not use the KS system, but they recognized the necessity of measuring the foot width and circumference, understanding that doing so properly can decrease the return and repair rate. And current target age for shoes bye the hand-made shoes companies was reported to be approximately 5 years. There were significant results according to ANOVA, factor and cluster analyses according to the age range pertaining to the foot length, circumference and height. Each element was significantly correlated with user's satisfaction. There were 5 factors and 3 clusters represented, and foot circumstance and width were as important as foot length with a range of 5 years.