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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Point Makeup Purchasing and Using Behavior according to the Personal Color Awareness
Woo, Soo-Jin ; Kim, Yong-Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 889~902
The purposes of this study were to identify point makeup purchasing and using behavior according to the personal color awareness. Most women considered their favorite color first when purchasing lipsticks and skin color when purchasing cheek powder or foundation. They considered makeup concept first when applying lipsticks, eye shadows, and cheek powder but skin color applying foundations and manicures. Factors of personal color awareness were preferences & utilization awareness, other's advice, and direct awareness, and were segmented into PC intermediate group, high PC group, and PC retard group. PC intermediate group were in the late 20's and the early 30's, average incomes with high education, and patronized discount stores for point makeups, used fashion color as a criterion when selecting lipsticks, foundations, and manicures, apparel color when applying eye shadows, skin color when applying cheek creams, and preferred imported lipsticks and manicures. High PC group were among unmarried women in the early 20's, university students, high income households with medium level of pocket money, spent more for point makeup, and patronized department stores and internet shopping mall, used skin color or fashion color as criteria when selecting point makeup, referenced makeup concept when applying point makeup, preferred imported point makeup. PC retard group were among married women in the late 30's with low education and low income, spent less for point makeup and pocket money, and selected domestic point makeup, used their favorite color as a criterion when selecting point makeups and apparel color when applying lipsticks and cheek creams.
A Study on the Eroticism of the Exposed Body and Clothing Style of Chinese Foreign Students in Korea
Yu, Ji-Hun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 903~916
The purpose of this study was to analyze the eroticism of the exposed body and clothing style of Chinese foreign students in Korea and to provide basic information required to design and develop a niche market for the Chinese. A Chinese professor translated 52 questions, which formed a preliminary survey given to 30 Chinese students. Following this preliminary survey, some questions were then revised. The surveys were conducted during 3 weeks starting from the 5th of October. Only 289 of 330 questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Data were analyzed statistically through Frequency analysis, Chi-square test, T-test, and Regression analyses in SPSS 12.0. The results of this study were as follows. First, we should consider men's breast, back, and neck line in order to develop the design of men's clothes, and the leg and collarbones for women's clothing. Second, it was suggested that we pay attention to the following articles of clothing to expand the erotic market for Chinese women's clothes: mini-skirts, side slit skirts, and tight-skirts for bottoms; blouses or T-shirts with a neckline scooped out deeply for tops; and see-through one-piece dresses with deeply scooped out backs.
Study on the Campaign of Using T-Shirts to Establish an Environmentally-Friendly Fashion Culture
Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 917~928
The hot-wave of campaign for fashion brands has itself become a fashion trend now. In order to participate in this popular trend, every brand has launched a new campaign of developing T-shirts each season with a social issue as the design concept. Such a campaign plan is related to the brand's image-making. Each brand has its own slogan based on various themes related to social issues. Since the environment is the hottest social issue these days, most campaigns' T-shirts also focus on the image of environmental-friendliness. The purpose of this study is to elucidate environmentally-friendly fashion culture in daily life so that "environmental-friendliness" would be positively cognized by people in everyday life. For that, the design of these T-shirts following the environmental campaign will be developed and their utilization potential will be clarified. The detail contents of the study are as follow. First, the meaning of the environmental campaign and trends of environmental campaigns in Korea and overseas will be explored in order to identify their theoretical contents. Second, the environmental campaigns will be classified by case. Analysis of the expression and characteristic of each case will determine the utilization plan. Third, design directions will be suggested based on the characteristics produced from the case study. As the study conclusion, five environmental campaign T-shirts will be produced.
A Study on the Original Form of Slacks of Elderly Women in Their Late 60s
Moon, Soon-Ei ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 929~944
The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze two original forms of slacks for thesis to extract outward appearance of design original form applying design measures of the above through diverse research methods. The results of this study are as follow: In original form F, the original form of slacks sloper suitable to elderly women 65~9 years old was W/4+3.5+0.5cm in the front/back circumference of waist, H/4cm in the front/back circumference of hip, (H/4+1+3.8)/2cm in the position of centerline, 19cm in actual measurement value of hip length, 25cm in actual measurement value of crotch depth, (knee crotch circumference~bottom line)/2+10cm and 90 (side waist dot~ lateral malleolus length)cm in actual measurement. front dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of front waist centerline and back dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of back waist circumference. It was suggested that front dart quantity (length) was 3.5(11)cm, back dart quantity 3.4 (10.2)cm, side waist up quantity 0.7cm, back down quantity 1.5cm, front crotch width (H/4+1)/4-1cm, back crotch width (H/4+1)/4+4, front knee width 21.8cm, back knee width 24.4cm, front pant leg 20.8cm, and back pant leg 23.4cm.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Graphic Factor in Contemporary Fashion Design Categorized by Media Source -Focusing on Play-Instinct Visual Expression-
JeKal, Mee ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 945~956
The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer's brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer's name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.
Characteristics of the Grunge Look in 21st century fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 957~969
This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.
Pastiche of Western Traditional Costume in Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 970~980
As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi
A Study on Image Perception according to Wedding Headdress, Hairstyle, and Neckline
Kim, Myung-Gi ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 981~992
The objectives of this study were to analyze the design elements of hairstyles, wedding headdresses, and necklines in wedding magazine pictures by using content analysis method and to investigate the differences in image perception according to hairstyle, wedding headdress, and neckline. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a
necklines) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 378 female college students. The results are as follow. First, the most popular among hairstyles, headdresses, and neckline forms were the updo hairstyle, dark brown hair color, the crown headdress, white flowers, and the horizontal bared top. Second, the elements determined to be most elegant and attractive were the medium-up hairstyle and the crown with a veil. However the wedding hat was perceived to be high in individuality and tenderness, while the flower and the wedding hat were perceived to be very pretty. The halter neckline was perceived to be higher in individuality and attractiveness than the other neckline types. Third, the medium-up hairstyle when wearing a crown with veil was perceived to be the most elegant. Placing a flower in the long-wave hairstyle was evaluated as looking most pretty. Fourth, the medium-up hairstyle was higher in preference than the long-wave style. Among wedding headdresses, there was greatest preference for a crown.
Design Development for Fashion-Cultural Products using Traditional Tteoksal Patterns
Kim, Ji-Young ; Oh, Yun-Jeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 993~1008
Traditional culture could be a wonderful source of inspiration for creative design. Tteoksal, the stamps used for making decorative patterns on traditional rice-cakes, have been used and passed on to generations to show the emotions of our ancestors. Numerous traditional patterns found in Tteoksal can be used to better understand and transmit tradition in modern ways. The purpose of this study was to develop fashion cultural products with a modern sensibility by understanding the origin, types and characteristics of Tteoksal and its patterns. The method of this study was through considering the proceeding studies and the references published by a specialist and museums having some information about further knowledge on Tteoksal. In line with the aforementioned study, neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouches were developed as fashion goods. Among the Tteoksal's patterns selected were lotus, bats, 樂 letters and complex patterns. Using a computer graphic software program such as Adobe Illustrator CS5, archetypes of patterns were traced as vector graphics, and two design motives were developed in every pattern. The patterns were developed into two types: one was a basic pattern faithful to a basic motive pattern, and the other was a varied type that was changed and applied. The fashion products were developed as two styles for basic and varied patterns for neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouch items. Twelve products were made for each pattern, which totals 48 unique products. In conclusion, the study could be a critical step to better understand the traditional culture and its influence to the patterns applied to modern fashion design.
A Development of Slacks Patterns for the Abdomen-obese Middle-aged Males from a Virtual Garment Simulation
Lim, Ji-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1009~1018
The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for middle-aged abdomen-obese adult males by using the 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were males who had over
of BMI, over 90cm of waist, and over 0.90 of WHR. A total of 211 adult males who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: first, a new slacks pattern considerate of abdomen-obese men was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows: front and back hip girth H/4+3.5, front waist girth W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front crotch extension H/16, back crotch extension H/8-0.5, front pleats amount 2.7, and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks patterns appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for the abdomen-obese men. Also, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models of production through data from a 3D body scan, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method in order to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
Women's Uniform Shirts' Pattern Alteration by Applying the Work Postures of Flight Attendants
Lee, Min-Ji ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1019~1030
The aim of this study was to develop a pattern of flight attendant uniform shirts to provide better comfort for their work postures. Flight attendants' work postures were evaluated to determine the problems of clothing and mobility during their work. The pattern of the flight attendants' uniform shirt was altered by applying dynamic wearing ease(DWE). DWE was calculated from four standardized dynamic postures and a static posture. An experimental garment was made with the altered postures. The researcher redesigned the pattern of the uniform shirts, which minimizes physical limitations in movements. The fit and mobility of the shirts were evaluated. Results of this study are as follows. First, the five representative work postures were selected by "clothing stress" and "repetitiveness." These postures included raised arms, twisting midriff and shoulder postures. Five representative postures were selected by using the ergonomic posture assessment device index(OWAS). Second, the experimental garment was developed by applying DWE across the back and at armhole depth, back length, and side length. Third, the fit and mobility of the experimental garments and the original uniform shirts were compared at the flight working environment set and 5 dynamic body postures of raising arms. The experimental garments made with an altered pattern provided better fit and mobility than the original sample shirts.
An Exploratory Study on the Configuration and Characteristics of Fashion Power Blogs as a Source of Information
Hong, In-Sook ; Lee, Bo-Ram ; Oh, Ji-Young ; Lim, Jung-Eun ; Roh, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1031~1048
The purpose of this study was to investigate the status of domestic and foreign power blogs that serve as professional source of information and to clarify the difference of the criteria for the certification and selection of power blogs. The study also analyzed the configuration of contents and the characteristic of categories of the power blogs. Eleven domestic blogs were examined, of which ten were certified as power blogs on several portal sites and one blog was operating in English. Furthermore twelve foreign blogs were examined, of which ten blogs were selected from the graded list of www.alexa.com for the Fashion Power Blog TOP 20 adopted on www.telegraph.co.uk in 2009, and two noticeable blogs were selected additionally. Data were analyzed by both theoretical and exploratory studies. The exploratory study was conducted by fourteen majors, who took interest in the blogs and were divided into two groups to look at the domestic and foreign sites, from 12 October to 12 November in 2010. The types of blogs were classified by frequency analysis of interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability. The investigators checked the type of the contents of each blog and the frequencies were used for the classification type. The analysis showed that the frequencies were in the order of information provision, followed by interest provision, and purchase capability for foreign blogs, while interest provision was followed by information provision for domestic blogs. Interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability were generally reflected in foreign blogs. Rather than interest provision and information provision, however, interactivity and purchase capability were reflected relatively weakly in domestic blogs.
A Study of Shirts' Patternmaking Based on 3D Body Surface Changes in Golf Swing Postures
Oh, Seol-Young ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1049~1060
The purpose of this study was to develop a shirt pattern that enhances the functionality of golf swing motions. The pattern was made with 3D body surface shape data that changed according to dynamic golf postures. The data were collected from the golf swing motions. The 3D body surface data in golf swing postures piled up on the 3D surface data in a static posture. The results showed that the surface shape data changed more in the address, back swing, and finish postures than the other swing postures. The experimental pattern was developed with 3D surface scan data in those three golf swing motions. The pattern had raglan sleeves and the front-bodied piece was divided into two pieces with a princess line, which comes from armscye line of the address posture. The back bodice piece was divided into three pieces with a yoke line and a back princess line. The yoke line was made by back shoulder shape in the back swing posture. The level of comfort of the experimental garment and commercial golf shirts was evaluated by 38 women golfers. The experimental garment pattern was evaluated to be more comfortable in golf swing postures than commercial golf shirts.
Tendency Analysis of Denim Styles Expressed through Women's Collection S/S 2011
Kim, Yang-Soo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1061~1074
This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.
Appearance Management Behaviors of Female University Students by Self-Efficacy and Self-Esteem
Lee, Seung-Hee ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1075~1087
The purpose of this study was to find discover the effects of self-efficacy and self-esteem on the appearance management behavior of female college students. As for the study method, questionnaire survey sheets on general traits like age, grade year, major and management cost, sense of self-efficacy, self-esteem, and appearance management behavior were distributed to female college students. The responses were measured based on a 5-points Likert scale. The results of this study are as follow: One's sense of social self-efficacy and self-esteem were both found to affect appearance management behavior significantly. In other words, the greater one's sense of social self-efficacy, which represents one's sense of confidence in inter-personal relations, the greater one's appearance management behaviors to enhance her own value. Furthermore, the greater one's self-esteem(the way one feels positively about oneself), the greater one's appearance management behaviors. As a result, it can be judged that the more an individual wants to act more capable in different contexts, the more she tries to make up for her own disadvantage. To highlight her own advantages for the sake of greater positive social activities and inter-personal relation, the more she takes to improve her image through appearance management behaviors. It is anticipated that such an examination of appearance management behavior, sense of self-efficacy and self-esteem among female college students will serve as useful data for appearance-related industries by enabling them to properly under stand their clientele's psychological traits.
The Qualitative Study on Outdoor Sportswear Purchase Behavior -Focusing on Functional Fabric Awareness Level and Benefits Sought-
Rhee, Young-Ju ; Lee, Eun-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1088~1101
The purpose of this study was to examine the outdoor sportswear purchase behavior, outdoorwear sportswear brand preference, functional fabric awareness, and benefits sought. The research was performed through in-depth interview during February to March 2011. Data were collected from 10 consumers who had purchased outdoor sportswear and experienced camping in 6 months. First, the results from study showed that functionality/comfortability, design, color, and brand name were important factors in selecting outdoor sportswear. Offline stores were the main place to purchase, however, internet shopping mall and portal online community were another shopping channel as well. Second, respondents preferred imported outdoor sportswear brand to national brand. According to the study, the respondents trusted the imported outdoor sportswear quality based on the brand name, value, and brand history more than national brand. Third, consumers who had low functional fabric awareness were more likely to evaluate apparel products based on the brand name. Knowledge levels for textile functions were high in elastic, UV protection, air permeable, and antibacterial properties. The essential features for camping were water absorbing and quick dry, water resistance, wind proof, UV protection, and fire retardant properties. Finally the results showed that there were two sportswear benefit soughts: functionality and status ostentation.
Design and Symbolism of Underwear Shown in Movie Costumes -Focusing on Historical Dramas Set in Europe between the
Kim, Hee-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1102~1118
The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the
century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the
century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the
century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the
centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.
The Influences of Appearance Concern and Body Satisfaction on the Appearance Management Behavior of Male College Students
Park, Hea-Woon ; Chung, Myung-Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 19, issue 5, 2011, Pages 1119~1132
The purpose of this study was to investigate the influences of appearance concern and body satisfaction on the appearance management behavior of male college students. For data collection, a questionnaire was administrated to 538 male college students in Gwangju city, Korea, from June 1 to June 20, 2011. To analyze the data, the SPSS 18.0 statistics package was used, and descriptive statistical analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis(Cronbach'
), regression analysis, path analysis, and t-test were conducted. The results were as follows. First, it appeared that concern of appearance had positive influences on the appearance management behavior. Also, there was a significant difference between the high-appearance-concern group and the low-appearance-concern group, as the high-appearance-concern group generally conducted greater appearance management behaviors than the low-appearance-concern group. Second, it appeared that concern of appearance had positive influences on body satisfaction, especially, on the aspect of face-satisfaction. Further, the results showed that the high-appearance-concern group seemed to have a higher body satisfaction than the low-appearance-concern group. Third, the result suggested that body satisfaction generally had positive influences on the aspects of appearance management behavior. Fourth, it was found that appearance concern had direct impact on the appearances management behavior without mediation body satisfaction.