Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 2, Issue 2 - Dec 1994
Volume 2, Issue 1 - May 1994
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Near East Costume (II) -Osman Turkey Costume-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 1~27
This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.
A Study of Improving the Human Body for Koran Women -Centering around Body Production-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 29~38
This research has been to perform with various methods of measurement of human body. As experiment methods, performed the body measurement method with Martin's measurer, took pictures for he observation of body gesture and body shape, and applied the cross-section measurement method of each body part for the making of body pivot. In the making of body pivot. used several sheets of styroform, and attached some gypsum power on the surface of the body pivot for he body silhouette of body. Eventhough, there were not enough subjects for this study, these methods will be continuously conducted with enough subjects, there will be to develop the body measurement method for Korean women, and will find to solve a suitable manufacturing body and the study of body for Korean women.
An Analysis of Clothing Symbolism on Mood and Emotion Described in Charles Dickens' Novels
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 39~53
This paper analyzes clothing symbolism of mood and emotion described in master pieces of Charles dickens(2812∼1870), who is a well-known writer of England, and thus tries to clarify symbolic characteristics of clothing woven into all human lives.. The result show that clothing symbolizes in various ways such mood and emotion as bless, wrath, friendliness, respect, surprise, excitement, embarrassment, uneasiness, sadness, melancholy, anxiety, hostility, unpleasantness, deliveration, shyness, blessing, gratitude, despair, shame, sympathy, boasting, etc.
An Analysis of Symbolism about College Student Clothing Phenomena
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 55~76
The purpose of this study was to analyze the classification and meaning of symbols, of the clothes of the college students by sex-roll theory and identity theory. The clothes analyzed in this study were collected by photographs which were taken in the campus (240 out of 1,000 pictures) of the several colleges and universities in Seoul form fall in 1993 to summer in 1994. The results were as follow : 1. Analysis as a symbol of sexuality. The phenomenon of the visual inconsistency and consistency of sexual image in dress were showed simultaneously. The clothes of male students were generally becoming feminine style in materials and colors of clothes. These suggested that sex-roll theory be applied to their clothes. 2. Analysis as symbols of identification or individuality. The identification of shoes, bags, accessories, and hair styles were prominent than that of clothes. When it was analyzed as a symbol of individuality, the college students seemed to act as fashion leaders, who accepted new fashions and tried them on first. These suggested that Erikson′s theory on identity be applied to their clothes. 3. Analysis as a symbol of emblem. The dissimilarities of between the college students and other groups in the same generation were bright and casual attire with files, books, and sack. 4. Analysis as a symbol of campus ceremony. The clothes of college students on campus ceremonies were more causal and flexible than those of other groups in the same generation. It was known that the symbols showed above were reflected on their clothes as "one′s expressions" which are sex-roll, identity, and characteristics of college students.
A Study on the Present Monk′s Costume of the Korean Buddhist -Focusing on Jokye and Taego Sects-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 77~91
The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.
A Study of Identifyign and Organizing Modules for Skirt Pattern Making Program
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 93~104
Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.
An Analysis on Costume Socialization in Koran Traditional Fairy Tale
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 105~121
The purpose of this study was to investigate clothing socialization in Korean fairy tales by the socialization theory. Clothing socialization analyzed of seven categories-norm, role, self-identity, morality, institution, social class and social change, From the costume in the Korean fairy tales, clothing socialization can be visualized.
A Study on the Women's Preference to the Skirt Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 123~143
The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.
Cultural Identity Described in Dress of Pearl S. Buck's Novel
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 145~165
This paper analyzes how Cultural identity described by dress in Pearl S. Buck's novel. The result shows that dress described Ethnic identity, Other cultural identity, Dual cultural identity.
An Analysis on the Relation between the business Cycle and the Change of the Fashion Silhouette
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 1, 1994, Pages 167~186
The purpose of his study is to investigate the relationship between the business cycle and the fashion of silhouette from 1956 to 1992. Correlation analysis an regression analysis were used to investigate the relation of them. In this study, the coincident composite index was used as business cycle and change of skirt in length and width, collar and pants in width wee thoroughly checked through graphs and photographs. The results of analysis are as follows. 1. When the economy is to ascend, the skirts are short and narrow. On the country, when the economy is descend, they are long and wide. 2. The business cycle gives influence on skirts line and with, that is, about 18%, 33% of total changes. 3. In change of fashion, skirts length and width had significant positive correlation and they showed a tendency to move together. On the other hand, the change of collar and patterns in width have no connection with business fluctuation. 4. The change of fashion is affected by the movement of itself. According to analysis that includes the trend of skirts, about 50%, and 35% of changes in skirts length and width were decided by them,. and about 52% and 35% of change in collar and patterns width were decided by them.