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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 2, Issue 2 - Dec 1994
Volume 2, Issue 1 - May 1994
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A Study on the Costume Terminologies of Silla
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 189~201
This study is an analysis of the costume terminologies of Silla nine costume terminologies were compared with other languages. The results of this study revealed that the costume terminologies of Sill were related to Semitic language group such s Hebrew, Aramaic, Arabic, and Assyrian as well as Persian, Turkish, Mongolic, Manchu, Gyliak and so on. The results of the analysis of this study imply that he people Silla had cultural contacts with the people of the Middle Est Asia and Near East Asia as well as their neibouring people such as Mongolians, Manchurians and Giyaks.
A Study on the History of the Development of Korean Female Costume during the 100 Years after the Flowering Time
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 203~223
This study intends to look through the development of female costume during the 100 years after the flowering time. By refocusing on the flow the Korean female costume, this study present representative costume style of that time and find out the fashion cycles. For this purpose, the clothes during the 100 years (from 1890 to 1993) were observed and changes of female costume, hair style and shoes were observed. Literature review and content analysis method used. The results of this study are as follows : For Korean costume, there were little changes in basic styles and only the jacket and skirt lengths were changed. After 1960s, as modernization of socio-cultural aspects were processed, Korean costume became formalized and structure of costume was duplicated. In the 1960's mint skirts and pantalons won popularity. In the 1970's , diverse modes including mini, midi, maxi, pantalon, hot pants appeared, and especially the jeans were popular. In the 1980's big & loose silhouette was in fashion in the beginning, and fit & flare silhouette later in the decade. In the 1990's styles emphasizing natural feminity came in fashion. In addition, by analyzing the development of female costume styles of Korea, Fashion cycles were found, expecially in the phenomenon of 70's styles repeating in the 90's.
The Study of Korea Dress and Personal Adornments during 1980's
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 225~245
The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.
A Study on the Slsl
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 247~263
This study is concerned with the slsl 瑟瑟. The identity, origins of the word, kinds, the place of production, and the sues of he sl sl were examined. The world sl sl means the sapphire. The Chinese word se se(seh seh), 瑟瑟 was derived from the Hebrew word, she she meaning marble. The use, meaning and the phonetic value of the sl sl between the Chinese and the Hebrew were the same each other. It indicates that the Chinese word se se(seh seh) was the transliteration of the Hebrew word she she. The sl sl were produced in the Middle East Asia and the sl sl used in ancient China was mainly originated from the Middle East Asia. The sl sl of Silla was also the sapphire and it was an article of the imported goods from the Middle East Asia. Women of Jin gol(true bone) were not use the sl sl as a material to decorate for their combs and headdresses. Also women of yuk du pum (six du pum) were prohibited to use the sl sl as a material for their combs. It indicates that the privilege to use the sl sl for a comb and in a head dress was restricted to the queen in Silla and it remained as a symbol of nobility and dignity.
A Study on the Fashion Illustration Applied Visual Image of the Traditional Korean Mask
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 265~282
The mask used in drama has been reappreciated, and it needs profound and systematic studies in order to form the mask to effective use. In research, the aesthestic values in the masks of he latter period of Chosun(the mideighteenth century-the early nineteenth century) was examined through the analysis of traditional drama in accordance with the historical social background. In the later period of Chosun, the active performance of the mask in company with the occurrence of a popular movement caused by people's self-awakening showed a close relationship between the development of the mask and its historical background the moulding characteristic of the mask was analysed before and after the eighteenth century, and regionally in the south and in the middle and the north. The mask express the quality of art before he eighteenth century. It showed, on the other hand, a strong social nature and a touch of satires on society in the south and a religional interest in he middle and the north. This study shows from the viewpoint of a aesthetics that traditional Korean mask during Chosun period had comfortable and voluminous forms with beauty curved lines and colors and rhythm. The aesthetic values in mask as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics have been classified the beauty of nature the beauty of personality, the beauty of traditions. Visual image with these beauty in masks were expressed into fashion illustration of suits and dresses.
A Study on Classification of Koran Traditional Patterns Based on Their Types
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 283~295
A systematic classification of Korean traditional patterns has been made according to their objects and presenting methods. The classification is represented with 3 levels of categories. First, the superordinate category is composed of 7 groups of patterns, i.e. Naturals, Animals, Plants, Artifacts, Geometric, Composites, and Others. Second, the basic category is composed of motifs in each group. Third, the subordinate category is composed of 3 types, i.e. realistic, stylized, abstracted, according to the degree of simplification. As this classification is a method for organizing informations in Korean traditional patterns in a systematic way, it can offer a useful basis for computerization of the patterns.
A Comparative Study on the Mongolic Costume Terminologies
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 297~306
This study is concerned with a comparative linguistic analysis of the Mongolian costume terminologies. It was found that the Mongolian costume terminologies were related to the costume terminologies of English, Indian, Chinese, Arabic Uigur, Tibetan, Persian, Turkish, Hebrew, Assyrian. The influence of the Chinese costume terminologies was fond in the terminologies of the fabrics and the precious stones of the Mongolians. Also, the influence of the Indian costume terminologies were shown in the Mongolian costume terminologies. A characteristic feature in the Mogolian costume terminologies of the fabrics and the precious stones showed the elements of the foreign terminologies. This factor amy be due to the fact that originally the Mongolians ere the nomades.
A Comparative Study on the Manchu Costume Terminologies
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 307~316
This study is concerned with a comparative linguistic analysis of the Manchu costume terminologies. The Manchu costume terminologies revealed the elements Hebrew, Norweygian, English, Assyrian, Chinese, American Indian, Sanskrit, Tatar, Turkestan, Greek, Arabic, Indian, Kashmiri. The most influential elements of the Manchu costume terminologies were the Chinese costume terminologies. specifically, the elements of the Chinese costume terms were found in the terminologies of the fabrics, the gems and the precious stones. Also the influence of the Mongolic costume on the Manchu costume terminologies appeared in this study.
A Diagrammatic Analysis of Dress
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 317~335
The purpose of this thesis is to analyze the relation of the mentalistics linguistics and costume, and to clarify the relationship between language as psychological expressions and costume to understand the phenomena of human costume behavior more deeply and comprehensively. As for the analysis of he costume phenomena, Noam Chomsky's psychological linguistic theory were applied to costume system. In this respect, particularly, by means of Chomsky's later theory(1965), the costume behavior were analyzed. The followings are the findings of the analysis : 1. The Syntactic Component: (※ See Full-Text) 2. The Semantic Component. The costme behavior is similar to a language system. Just as one morpheme or a phrase and phrases make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different forms is costume. Language and costume have dictionary entry showing the meaning of vocabulary, and rules combining the individual meaning of the dictionary entry to complete the sentence.
A Study on the Clothing Practices of Korean Girl's Junior High School & University Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 337~354
The main purpose of the study were to investigate a selection motive of clothing and feeling of wearing of Korean junior, high school & university students. The results were as follows; 1. For underwear, the body appearance and hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in a selection motive of clothing. And the property matter and hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 2. For outwear, a functionality and the psychological aspect were shown as important factors in a selection motive of clothing. And a exercise and psychological aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 3. For pants, the functionality was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing and the exercise aspect was shown as an important factors in the feeling of wearing. For skirt. the psychological aspect was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing and feeling of wearing. 4. The hygienical aspect was shown as an important factor in a selection motive and the feeling of wearing of clothing for comfort.
A Study on the Relationship between Social Values and Selected Clothing Behavior for a Group of Working Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 355~369
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the social values and selected clothing behavior variable for a group of working women in Kwang Ju, Chonnam, Korea. The findings of this study as follows: 1. The were differences in selective clothing variables according to their general characteristics; age, marital status, religion. 2. There were differences in selective clothing variables according to their occupational characteristics; type, length of employment, income. 3. A significant relationship was found between he social values and selected clothing behavior variables; There were significant relationship between the social trend and five clothing behavior variables; social approval, psychological dependence, satisfaction, comfort, interest. There ere significant relationship between the human relation and one clothing variables; management. There were significant relationship between the popularization and three clothing behavior variables; social approval, psychological dependence and management.
A Study on the Freedom in Dress -The Behavior on Clothing Selection for a Group of Female College Students-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 371~383
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the freedom in dress and the behavior on clothing selections for a group of female college students. Through this study, the following were found: 1. A significant relationship was found between the freedom in dress and the behavior on clothing selections. 2. There was a significant relationship between clothing selection abilities and clothing satisfaction determinants. 3. There was a significant relationship between practicality and freedom in dress. 4. The revel of the freedom in dress among the Free dresser groups turned out to have a profound relation with the fashion, while that among the Less free dresser groups had a correlation with the economic exhibitionism.
A Study of Body Surface Area Calculation -Centering around 40 Ages-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 385~394
Data of the body surface is a necessary unit for the measuring of metabolism energy and activity energy. And also, these data are referring to check the degree of retaining warmth of clothes, to find the effect of heat insulation according to body surface, to calculate an average temperature of skin, and to study the several fields of clothing. In measuring of body surface, it si actually impossible to measure a subject's body surface in each experiment. As the experimental method, both gypsum method, by which the shape of body an be copied as it is, and the weighting method from which planed body surface area can be measured with consistent thickness of polyprophylene film as used. In fact, every female subject feels uncomfortable to measure her body surface as a naked body. There, it is providing a simple, accurate regressive equation with weight & height as variable factors in this study. This equation is as=117.02W+77.31H-3344.94 with average error : 0.1%, absolute average error : 2.07%.
A Study on the Fashion Illustration of 17th Century
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 395~413
Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.
The Surrealistic Formative Characters of Modern Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 415~443
This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit of humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern costume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform costume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angels, and thus it suggested new aesthetic conception different from general conception of the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-said, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only ring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.
A Study on the Empire Style Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 2, issue 2, 1994, Pages 445~460
This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.