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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Dec 2012
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Oct 2012
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Aug 2012
Volume 20, Issue 3 - Jun 2012
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Apr 2012
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Feb 2012
Selecting the target year
Study on the Dyeability and the Colorfastness of Imported Commercial Raw Indigo Powder Dye on Cotton Fabric
Yang, Yue ; Ahn, Cheun-Soon ; Park, Jin-Sung ; Li, Longchun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 463~474
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.463
The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures (
) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must be used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by
dyeing with the
dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures (
). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first 5 hours of sunlight exposure. The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.
A Study on the Noise Absorption of Textiles for Interiors
Choi, In-Ryu ; Bang, Hey-Kyong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 475~484
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.475
The purpose of this study is to help to prevent daily noises by measuring the noise absorption coefficient of the non-woven fabrics and wallpapers which are commonly used in lining and noise absorption coefficient of lining curtain. Seven types of fiber materials for the interior decoration, one non-woven fabric for the wallpaper linings, and two types of textiles for curtain linings are used as the experimental materials in this study. The noise absorption coefficient of the noise absorbents were measured by using impedance tube. And the thermal transmittance were measured by using thermal transmittance tester. The results of this study are as follows; Observing the noise absorption efficiency of each experimental materials, the combination of fiber materials and linings, the noise absorption efficiency of cotton, polyester and silk were similar and for the experimental materials of flax, rayon, acrylic and nylon were resulted the similar noise absorption efficiency. The result of combination of fiber material and black fabric was highest among the combined linings. For the combination of fiber material and non-woven fabric, double layers of non-woven fabric resulted slightly higher noise absorption coefficient result than single layer of non-woven fabric. The thermal transmittance and the sound absorbents of experimental materials were affected by the thickness, density and layer of air of the experimental materials.
Development of Textile Design and Design Contents for Fashion-Cultural Products Based on Formative Beauty of Traditional Sewing Crafts
Kim, Sun-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 485~499
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.485
This study suggests designs for fashion-cultural products that can communicate the uniqueness of Korean traditional culture. To this end, motives and printing patterns were created based on the formative beauty of traditional sewing crafts. A literature review was completed to identify characteristics of Korean traditional sewing, and the motives were developed through Adobe Illustrator CS4 and Adobe Photoshop CS4. Those motives were applied to handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches, and handbags. The sewing crafts used in this study included thimbles, bobbins, and chumoni (a Korean traditional pouch). The motives were produced in a manner that best exemplified the unique formative beauty of the sewing crafts while also presenting modern images of the crafts. The motives from thimbles reflected the lateral side of their originals, while the motives from bobbins adopted fan- or rectangular-shaped bobbins. The motives from chumoni were based on Duruchumoni and Guichumoni. A total of 12 motives were developed, and a total of 36 textile designs were suggested based on those motives. A total of 42 designs for fashion-cultural products, including handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches and handbags, were developed. Among them, motives applied to handkerchiefs were expanded to apply to scarfs, as well.
A Study on Sportswear Brand Loyalty and Purchase Behaviors according to Lifestyles of 20's Single Women
Suh, Hae-Seung ; Shin, Su-Yun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 500~514
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.500
The purpose of this study was to classify the lifestyles of 20's unmarried women, identify the differences among the lifestyle groups, and analyze sportswear purchase behaviors and brand loyalty according to the lifestyle types. The subjects were 312 single women who had purchased sportswear. The questionnaire consisted of measurement items for lifestyle, purchase behaviors, brand loyalty and demographic attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's
, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA,
-test and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS 18.0 program. The results of the study were as follows. First, as a result of cluster analysis to classify the lifestyles of 20's single women, 4 groups were identified as practical and advanced-media-usage type, adventurous and self-actualizing type, enthusiastic-fashion seeking type, active and leisure-oriented type. Second, 3 factors of brand loyalty were classified as continuous brand loyalty, habitual brand loyalty and no brand loyalty. Third, upon analyzing the differences of brand loyalty based on lifestyles, practical and advanced-media-usage type and enthusiastic-trend seeking type showed no brand loyalty. Forth, 4 groups showed different sportswear purchase behaviors, such as purchase motivation, information sources, purchase frequency, purchase cost of one time, purchase place, the number of possession and purchase items.
Self-efficacy and Body Satisfaction according to College Students' Appearance Management Attitudes Typology
Park, Eun-Hee ; Cho, Hyun-Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 515~528
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.515
The purpose of this study was to classify appearance management attitudes into groups and analyze the difference of self-efficacy and body satisfaction by the groups. Questionnaires were administered to 255 college students living in Deagu Metropolitan City and Kyungbook province. The data collected were analyzed by using frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test, t-test, and
-test. The findings were as follows. Appearance management attitudes of college students were classified into three groups such as group health body, low body interest group, emphasizes collective body. The appearance management attitudes showed significant correlation with the sub-variables of self-efficacy and body satisfaction. Male students showed no significant difference in self-efficacy by the groups while female students showed a significant one in task performance which was a sub-variable of self-efficacy. Both of the male and female students showed a significance of difference in the gap between actual and ideal weight which was a sub-variable of body satisfaction by the groups. Gender of college students showed distinction between the sub-variables of self-efficacy factors such as task performance, and anxiety and body satisfaction such as BMI, the difference between current height and ideal height, the difference between current weight and ideal weight.
Characteristics of Adult Women's Body Somatotype according to Drop Values
Yoon, Ji-Won ; Suh, Mi-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 529~534
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.529
An analysis of adult women's somatotypes classified by drop values can provide important preliminary data in determining standard clothing sizes for mass production of ready-made clothes. This is because the values are based on measurements of girth, which is essential information in the size-setting process. Adult women's body types are classified according to drop values in a standard clothing size system adopted by Korea and several other countries. This study aims to identify somatotype characteristics of adult women aged 20 to 69 by using five types of drop values: bust-waist, hip-waist, hip-bust, abdomen-waist, and hip-abdomen. Statistical cluster analysis of collected data revealed four somatotypes among adult women. Type R, with a developed lower body, accounted for 36.6%, and its bodyline was found to be closest to the average adult woman. Type X, constituting 25.4%, had the curviest contours of all and relatively large hip measurements, with the thinnest figure. Flat abdomen and hips characterized type Y, which accounted for 18.9%. Lastly, 19.0% fell into type H, the most obese figure, in which abdomen girth exceeded hip measurements. Since type H has excess fat deposits in the abdomen, not only hip measurements but also abdomen girth should be considered when designing top longer than torso-length and bottoms.
A Qualitative Study on Factors related to Achievement Motivation of Beauty Industry Professionals
Kang, Joo-A ; Rhee, Young-Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 535~548
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.535
The purpose of this study is to research the achievement motivation of beauty industry professionals. The research method involved one-on-one, in-depth interviews with 7 hair professionals, 7 make-up professionals and 7 skincare professionals. The in-depth interviews were recorded in their entirety, and the recorded content was transcribed and organized. Analysis of the transcribed data involved encoding, deconstructing and re-composing the interview content. Research results revealed 5 factors that were extracted to explain the achievement motivation of beauty industry professionals. Four of the 5 factors were similar to the results of precedent studies, but the remaining factor presented unique characteristics. The 4 common factors were "motive to pursue success", "motive to avoid failure", "motive to meet challenges" and "goal-oriented motive". The factor discovered in this study was "relationship-oriented motive", which is characterized by the tendency to place importance in relationships with superiors, colleagues and customers based on the working characteristics of beauty industry professionals. Based on the results of this study, beauty industry professionals can learn about goals that must be met in various stages in order to establish a system for accomplishing those goals, implement an emotional education program for mental balance, introduce a competitive team system, and carry out a relationship improvement program to increase work efficiency.
A Study on Comfort of Sports Bras by Style and Bra Cup Size
Chun, Jong-Suk ; Jang, Yu-Mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 549~559
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.549
The purpose of this study was to analyze the comfort of sports bras by style and bra cup size. The comfort of wear was measured with compression level. The displacement of breast points (BP) after wearing a sports bra was measured. Study subjects evaluated the comfort level of the compression type and encapsulation type sports bras after walking and running. The results showed that all types of experimental sports bras provided more coverage than everyday bras. The compression type bra placed more pressure on the breast, chest, and under-bust than the encapsulation type bra. The BP distance decreased for all types. The C cup subjects' breasts were raised after wearing the sports bras. The B cup subjects had less comfort with the compression style bra than C cup subjects. The racer back style bra with high neckline and small band girth placed more pressure than others. They were difficult to don and doff and the least comfortable. These results imply that the racer back compression style sports bra was uncomfortable for women with large breast, while the encapsulation style bra with the compressing panel at upper chest was the most comfortable. The bras that shortened BP distance placed more pressure on the breast. But the bra that raised and shorted the distance of BP provided better comfort for large-breasted subjects.
The Influence of Perceiver's Social Values on Image Evaluation of Men Wearing Accessories
Lee, Myoung-Hee ; Song, Won-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 560~572
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.560
This study examines the influence of fashion accessories on how men of different ages are perceived, as well as how the social values of the perceiver affect the image evaluation process. For the purpose of this study, men's accessories were limited to glasses, ties, and hats. A quasi-experiment was conducted in which 358 female university students in Seoul examined two men, one in his 30s and the other in his 60s. The social value included materialism and hedonism with higher and lower group. Factor analysis revealed three main factors with regard to men's image based on age and accessories: professionalism, morality, and preference. The findings indicated that wearing accessories can affect how men are perceived, and the perceivers' social values are at play throughout the process. Glasses enhanced a professional image in men, while ties amplified professionalism and morality. Morality and preference for the older man were heightened when he wore a fedora and a hunting cap. Taking social values into account, perceivers with a higher level of materialism associated a man with a navy blue tie more strongly with professionalism. Perceivers who possessed more hedonistic traits preferred a man wearing a cap. The subjects considered the man in his 60s as having a higher level of professionalism when he wore casual hats such as a cap or a cloche. The results of this study suggest that social values such as materialism and hedonism play a part in how people perceive men wearing accessories.
A Study on Consumers' Buying Intention toward Fashion Goods through Global Internet Shopping Malls
Lee, Hyun-Mee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 573~593
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.573
The purpose of this study was to investigate consumers' buying intention toward fashion goods through global internet shopping malls. This research employed Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) as a theoretical framework and was extended to introduce fashion innovativeness, clothing involvement, consumers' needs for uniqueness, computer self-efficacy as external factors. A total of 381 copies of questionnaires were collected online. The subjects of this study were women. The collected date were analysed by factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha, correlation and path analysis. The results indicated that fashion innovativeness, clothing involvement and consumers' needs for uniqueness had a significant positive affect on perceived usefulness. Consumers' needs for uniqueness and computer self-efficacy had a significant positive affect on perceived ease of use. Perceived usefulness and perceived ease of use were found to influence buying intention toward fashion goods through global internet shopping malls. The results of this study also suggested that perceived ease of use was actually a causal antecedent to perceived usefulness. This study reveled that employing TAM to investigate the buying intention toward fashion goods through global internet shopping malls was appropriate. This study also provides empirical analysis that can serve as a guide for marketers of the fashion industry in activating global internet shopping malls.
Development of the Bias-Cut Dress Pattern Making Method by Applying Fabric Draping Ratio
Park, Chan-Ho ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 594~603
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.594
This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from
. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.
The Role of Self-Construal and Emotionsin Younger Consumers' Commitment to Luxury Brands
Hwang, Ji-Young ; Kandampully, Jay ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 604~615
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.604
Despite the increasing recognition of the value of emotions and younger consumers in luxury market segments, little research has focused on the role consumer characteristics and emotions play in younger consumers' commitment to luxury brands. Drawing on the identity-motivation model and the idea of self-construal, this study identifies the contributing factors of younger consumers' commitment to luxury fashion brands. Specifically, this study examines the role of consumer characteristics (i.e., self-construal), the self-expressiveness of brands, and emotional factors (i.e., brand love and brand attachment) in developing consumer-brand relationships. The proposed model was tested with college students in the U.S., which supplied a representative group of younger consumers of luxury fashion brands. The data were collected using web-based surveys and analyzed using structural equation modeling method. The results showed that consumers who were characterized with interdependent self-construal had positive perceptions of self-expressive luxury fashion brands. Furthermore, the perception of self-expressive brands promotes the consumers' brand love of and brand attachmentto luxury fashion brands. Also, while both improved brand commitment, brand attachment had a greater impact on brand commitment than brand love. This study contributes to the literature by identifying driving forces of younger consumers' brand commitment. It also provides managerial implications for luxury fashion brands.
Inventions and Other Developments Associated with the Heritage Textile Industries of the British Isles
Hann, M.A. ; Nicholson, E. ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 4, 2012, Pages 616~620
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.616
The objectives of this paper are to examine some of the factors which may account for the rise in predominance of British textile manufacture in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. This paper identifies a range of important eighteenth century British inventions and associated developments, such as the 'factory' system, which stimulated expansion in textile manufacture in the British Isles and led to the rise in international importance of various 'heritage textile industries', including the Lancashire cotton industry, the Yorkshire woollen and worsted industry, the Dundee jute industry and the Irish linen industry.