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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Dec 2012
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Oct 2012
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Aug 2012
Volume 20, Issue 3 - Jun 2012
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Apr 2012
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Feb 2012
Selecting the target year
Comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market
Park, Do Yoon ; Jung, Heh Soon ; Na, Mi Hyang ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 621~634
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.621
With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.
Modern sports-inspired fashion through active sportswear development history
Lee, Young Min ; Park, Jae Oak ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 635~654
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.635
This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.
A case study on the costume making process of stop motion animation characters
Kim, Ki Hoon ; Suh, Ji Sung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 655~663
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.655
Due to increased interest in character costumes, the field of animation character costume design is gradually developing into a specialized domain. The costume-making process for animation characters presents many differences from the costume-making process for regular apparel. However, there remains insufficient research on the actual process of making the character costumes used in stop motion videos both in Korea and abroad. The purpose of this study is to establish a costume design process for animation characters. Furthermore, this study presents a case study on the costume planning and making process for 3D stop motion animation characters. The character costume-making process was segmentalized into the following stages: character analysis stage, character modeling stage, and character costume making stage. In the character analysis stage, the investigator analyzed the character's movements, designed the character images, and analyzed the movements and motions of the animation characters. After completing character modeling, this study proposed a method for making the character costume. The style of the character costume was designed, and the structural design reflected the position and size of joints as well as the angle of movements. The patterns of the character costume were produced through dimensional tailoring after measuring the body size of the character. Afterward, the costume was completed after passing through the fitting and revision stages. The clothing material was selected to fit the colors and feelings shown in the illustration. To complete the costume after comparing it with the initial illustration, it was revised based on the assessment of its volume and overall atmosphere.
A study on the relationships among emotional labor, job satisfaction and turnover intention of beauty industry professionals
Kang, Joo-A ; Rhee, Young Ju ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 664~678
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.664
The purpose of this study is to define the relationships among the emotional labor, job satisfaction, and turnover intention of beauty industry workers. The data for this study were collected through a survey, and a total of 197 questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. The survey items were classified into 4 domains: demographic characteristics, emotional labor, job satisfaction, and turnover intention. This study extracted factors that compose each measurement domain to define the impact of emotional labor on job satisfaction or turnover intention. According to the research results, 3 factors - positive norm, sincere behavior, and emotional incongruity - were extracted for emotional labor. Individual aptitude satisfaction and work environment satisfaction were extracted as the factors for job satisfaction, whereas a single factor was extracted for turnover intention. By analyzing the effect of factors related to the emotional labor of beauty in dustry workers on factors related to job satisfaction, results showed that positive norm positively influenced individual aptitude satisfaction, sincere behavior positively influenced individual aptitude satisfaction and work environment satisfaction, and emotional incongruity negatively influenced individual aptitude satisfaction. Among factors related to emotional labor, positive norm and sincere behavior negatively affected turnover intention, whereas emotional incongruity positively influenced turnover intention. With regard to the effect of job satisfaction on the turnover intention of beauty industry workers, results showed that individual aptitude satisfaction and job environment satisfaction negatively (-) affected turnover intention. The results of this study show that people presenting a high level of individual aptitude satisfaction displayed positive job satisfaction, whereas people showing serious emotional incongruity for work presented high turnover intention. This implies that in order to increase the work efficiency of beauty businesses, it is essential to examine and manage the emotional labor of workers as a measure for increasing job satisfaction and lowering turnover.
The fashion brand logo development and design application - Focused on L fashion -
Shin, Nam-Jin ; Lee, Keum-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 679~694
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.679
The purpose of this study was to develop a logo type for a new fashion brand and to present design cases that apply the relevant logo type to suggest an advisable direction for logo design. This study analyzed the logo designs of domestic and foreign fashion brands and used the data to develop a logo type for a brand name that reflects the concept of the newly launched brand, in addition to presenting the relevant design process and method. Besides a literature review, this study conducted case analyses of domestic and foreign fashion brand logos. This is an empirical study in which researchers developed a logo type and presented designs that applied it. The research results are as follows. The brand name of the new L Fashion brand in Korea is 'LEAY'. This study developed a logo using the initials L, E, A, and Y, each standing for life, love, and liberty; esteem, eternity; act, art; and youth. The Caslon type font, which evokes a casual yet modern sentiment, was used for the design. Cleats and zippers, which are decorative subsidiary materials used in labels, tags, shopping bags, clothing, and props, were applied in the design of the developed logo type. All design cases was produced into articles. The case of fashion brand logo design and development presented in this study implies that the development of fashion brand logos and the logo-applied product design must be tied to the launching and planning process; thus, logo development must be based on the brand concept in relation to the market entry strategy that satisfies both producers and customers.
A study on the importance and preference of the attributes of Korean traditional textile used in clothing and fashion accessories
Kim, Min-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 695~708
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.695
This study researched consumers' awareness regarding the commercialization of Korean traditional culture through various channels or products. A survey was administered to consumers in the Gyeonggi region(n=322) from June to August 2012. Differences in the importance placed on, and preferences for, attributes of Korean traditional fashion textile and Korean traditional patterns were analyzed according to consumer characteristics. Research results showed that the factors allowing recognition of Korean traditional textile in clothing and fashion accessories were color, pattern, and textile type, in the respective order. Overall, consumers generally perceived higher importance in using the factors of Korean traditional textile in clothing than in fashion accessories. Preferences for Korean traditional patterns differed according to the type of fashion item, i.e., clothing or fashion accessories, and also according to the age and gender of the consumer. Women generally showed a tendency to place higher value on Korean traditional patterns than men. The degree of preference was higher, as well. However, only a minor difference was seen according to pattern type. Women showed a higher preference for plant patterns, literal patterns, and geometric patterns compared with men. The preferred type of traditional pattern was also different according to age. Consumers in their 20s and 40s presented a higher preference for Korean traditional colors when compared with the 30s group. On the other hand, the preference for Korean traditional patterns was higher among consumers in their 40s than those in their 20s or 30s. The results of this study show that the awareness of consumers regarding Korean traditional textile reflected in clothing and fashion accessories differs according to gender or age. Thus, this implies the need to consider the differences in perceived importance and preferences among target consumer groups to develop various fashion products that use Korean traditional fashion textile.
A study on the types and symbolic meanings of the traditional motifs of the Halloween costume
Yu, Jihun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 709~724
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.709
This study examined the characteristics of costumes worn at Halloween parties, a form of cultural entertainment commonly seen in the U.S. The Halloween party culture involves children and adolescents wearing costumes, decorating their bodies, and mimicking famous characters. Furthermore, the types and motifs of Halloween costumes have become a means of expressing individuality. This study conducted empirical research on how such motifs were reflected in modern Halloween party-wear in order to provide basic data regarding the development and design of Halloween costumes and the formation of the related entertainment culture. This study researched the shape of costumes and the type of traditional motif presented in these costumes, as well as analyzed the symbolic meaning of each motif. The research process was as follows. First, this study investigated the origin and evolution of Halloween by researching precedent studies, books, and internet data. Second, this study extracted the types of traditional Halloween motifs by analyzing the characteristics and symbols of Halloween costumes commonly presented in such materials. After collecting 547 Halloween-related images from U.S. and Korean Internet websites, this study sorted and analyzed images that could represent traditional Halloween motifs. According to the results, representative traditional Halloween motifs included black cats, white rabbits, tridents, scarecrows, skull and bones, ghosts, witches, vampires, bats, werewolves, and jack-o-lanterns(pumpkins, etc.). The sentiments for such traditional Halloween motifs changed according to era and race. The symbolic meaning would continuously change - from positive to negative and vice versa - to reflect various socio-cultural phenomena. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic data for developing Halloween costume designs and the related entertainment culture.
Women's perceptions of physical deformation from aging and demand on postural correction wear
Lee, Suyeon ; Chun, Jongsuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 725~735
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.725
This study investigated the demand for functional clothing that compensates for the physical deformation of women due to aging. For this, the degree of perception of physical deformation at the new silver generation was examined. The demand for functional clothing that corrects body shape and posture according to differences in age and degree of perception was analyzed. Study participants(n=138) were women who ranged from 55 to 65 in age. Perception of physical deformation was investigated in the categories of deformation of body posture, cognition of joint pain, and deformation of body shape. Analysis results showed that cognition of joint pain was the largest of the three elements of body deformation, and each element had a high correlation between each other. Perception for degree of body deformation for women in their 50's and 60's was similar. These results show that changes in posture or body shape occur severely from the late 50's, and this appears as joint pain. The group with a high perception of posture deformation showed an especially high demand for functional clothing that corrects body shape and posture. The group with a high perception of body shape deformation had high demand for functional clothing that corrects body shape by lifting the hips and the breasts, and making the abdomen and waist slimmer. The results of this study show that women of the new silver generation are attuned to deformations in body shape and posture as well as joint pain beginning in their mid-fifties. There is a need to develop functional clothing to correct posture and body shape for the new silver generation women.
Effectiveness of fashion banner advertising according to university students' attitudes toward internet advertisement
Mun, Mira ; Kim, Yongsook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 736~752
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.736
The purpose of this study was to identify the effectiveness of fashion banner advertising according to university students' attitudes toward internet advertisement(IA). Factors of IA were information, entertainment, negative, benefit, and topicality. A self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection. Subjects(n=678) were participated in the survey and they were segmented into IA positive group, IA intermediate group, IA indifferent group, and IA negative group. IA positive group included more women with higher household income and clothing expenditure. They preferred shopping at open market on-line malls. IA intermediate group included more women with lower income and clothing expenditure. They preferred shopping at on-line malls. IA indifferent group included more men with lower income and less clothing expenses. Banner advertisement with mixed appealing was the most effective to the university students in terms of preference and click and purchase intention. IA positive group showed the highest level of preference and click and purchase intention to the banner with rational appealing, banner with emotional appealing, and the banner with mixed appealing. IA indifferent group showed the lowest level. IA intermediate group showed a positive attitude to the banner with rational appealing and mixed appealing. IA negative group showed the lowest level of click and purchase intention to the banner with rational appealing.
Fashion savvy I: Scale validation and the relationship with consumer propensity to observe
Park, Hye-Jung ; Jeon, Kyung Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 753~765
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.753
This study tested the validity of the six-factor model of fashion savvy which was modified from the consumer savvy scale developed by Macdonald and Uncles(2007) and explored the relationship between fashion savvy and consumer propensity to observe. Regarding the relationship, it was hypothesized that consumer propensity to observe antecedes fashion savvy. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul metropolitan area, using convenience sampling, and 311 questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. In analyzing data, factor analysis and regression were conducted. The findings show the validity of the six factors of fashion savvy, which are fashion sophistication, interpersonal network competency, online network competency, marketing literacy, consumer self-efficacy, and consumer expectations. Tests of the hypothesized relationship show that two factors of consumer propensity to observe influence fashion savvy. More specifically, the 'observing shoppers' factor positively influences all six factors of fashion savvy, whereas the 'following what others buy' factor negatively influences four factors of fashion savvy, fashion sophistication, interpersonal network competency, marketing literacy, and consumer self-efficacy. The implications of these findings and suggestions for future study are also discussed.
The effect of ancient Chinese philosophy on Chinese clothing culture
Cao, Zhenyu ; Cao, Yuanqian ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 766~774
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.766
Ancient Chinese philosophy has had a profound influence on Chinese clothing culture. The researchers reviewed five ancient Chinese philosophical thoughts on Chinese clothing culture. The results show that they had different view of point. The Confucianism advocated "being elegant and refined in manner". Dong Zhongshu believed "Interaction between heaven and mankind is the center of Dress rules". Mohist insisted "Clothing should meet warm first, and then seek for beauty ". Taoism believed "Although a gentleman wears coarse clothes, he has gem in his chest". Legalism believed "Clothing should focus on quality rather than decoration". These philosophy thoughts all have had a profound influence on Chinese clothing culture.
Classification of Li(黎族) traditional brocade patterns of Chinese textile and its application for modern fashion product design
Zhang, Shunai ; Wu, Simin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 775~781
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.775
There are various kinds of patterns on Li brocade textile of Hainan province in China. Those patterns are rich and colorful. Li (黎族) traditional brocade is an ancient exquisite craftsmanship and a world cultural heritage. This study analyzed and categorized Li brocade pattern of traditional Chinese textiles. Li (黎族) traditional brocade is an ancient exquisite craftsmanship. Based on the research of classifications of Li brocade patterns, expound the application of women's costume. The patterns of Li brocade textile of Hainan province analyzed through three levels: design transforming, meaning prolongation, and refining spirit. The patterns were explored the feasibility way to inherit the patterns of Li brocade for the modern fashion product design. The results showed that Li brocade textile pattern of Hainan province were images sourced from local environment and geographical terrain. They contained the nation's history memory, religion, hope for life of the Li nationality. Those patterns can be categorized as human figure pattern, animal pattern, geometric pattern, appliance or architecture pattern, and Chinese character pattern.
Fashion, addressing the new body - The body, fashion and art -
Park, Shinmi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 20, issue 5, 2012, Pages 782~798
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.5.782
The research aim is to analyze the attributes of fashion as an object of art, and to examine its potential and status as an art of body space. This paper explains the relationship between these two disciplines by focusing on the body as the foundation of fashion and art's concepts, and discusses the intrinsic properties and the approach to the creation of fashion which is expressed through the body. The research begins by analyzing the sociologists thoughts on the body and extracts the characteristics of fashion as a practice of a new art field from the perspective of body creating space. It explains that fashion can most easily transform the body and that this, along with the body itself, possesses the element of creating body space. Fashion is a new avenue for understanding the body that not only includes the human figure but also its movement and spirit approached as a creative activity. The paper will show that fashion chosen as an art activity expresses the changeable and ambiguous body and embraces an unlimited potential of creative activity. This expands the creative field by managing both the inner and outer space of the body. Historical examination, literature review and overview of development of reference materials will establish the theory.