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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 21, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 21, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 21, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 21, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 21, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 21, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
The study on the yarn & weaving characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave - Focused from the Sang-go(上古) period to the Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮王朝) -
Choi, Seungyeun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 1~16
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.001
This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.
The characteristics expressed in visual merchandising of Maison Hermès - Focused on the window displays -
Heo, Seungyeun ; Lee, Younhee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 17~30
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.017
The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the VM's characteristics of Maison Herm
s which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy focusing on the flagship store window displays of Herm
s. The framework for analysis of this study is established by related precedent studies. The results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results of this study are as follows. Maison Herm
s window displays have been unfolded a total of 57 times for 10 years, and have introduced a variety of themes by cooperating with 40 artists in various fields. Herm
s set up eight types of themes in order to show the window displays, and these themes have been developed by the method of display presentation such as surrealistic, symbolic, mood, realistic, information. A majority of the participating artists was the Japanese. In addition, the display components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, the object productions that were embodied the tangible and intangible image, the nostalgia, the child's world, good, colors, etc., were most frequently utilized for an effective display presentation of the themes that have been set according to each season. The most frequently used development techniques applied Herm
s windows' VP were the 'd
paysement', 'the descriptive narrative', and 'scene of dramatic contrast'. It turned out that a majority of the primary colors to make up Herm
s window displays were analyzed by the red-orange and white color.
A study on the introduction of men's items in women's equestrian clothing
Kim, A-Ra ; Lee, Young-Jae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 31~41
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.031
By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late
century to the
century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the
century, three from the
century, ten from the
century, and six from the
century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late
century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the
century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the
century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.
The effect of UNIQLO's online and offline brand images on the purchase intention as a multichannel brand
Kim, Jieyurn ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 42~56
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.042
Nowadays the advantages of multichannel retailing strategy in fashion business have been widely discussed, but empirical research on fashion retail has been limited. The purpose of this research is to provide some ideas on multichannel retailing strategy to fashion retailers through the case of UNIQLO. The online survey was conducted on each 100 female customers in their 20s, 30s, 40s living in seoul among UNIQLO customers. The survey was consisted of measurement items for UNIQLO's online store image and offline store image, customer satisfaction, purchase intention, and demographic attributes. The online survey was found that 30.3% of UNIQLO's multichannel customers bought a product from offline store using online shopping mall as a search channel, on the other hand, 20.7% of UNIQLO's multichannel customers bought a product from online store using offline store as a search channel. Factors of the online shopping mall image were consisted of shopping convenience, product information, price policy, trust. And factors of the offline store image were consisted of trust and store, product information, service. Some factors of online store and offline store image had impact on multichannel customer satisfaction. And, customer satisfaction also had impact on purchase intention of UNIQLO product. Some suggestion for the future of multichannel research in fashion retailing was given.
Methods to improve infant clothing made with Hanji yarn - Investigating the image of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing -
Ju, Jeong Ah ; Shim, Joon Young ; Kim, Hyun Chul ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 57~65
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.057
With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.
A study on the expression of Nomadics displaying in modern fashion - As the central with the Nomadism of Gilles Delleuze -
Jang, Yoonee ; Um, So Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 66~80
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.066
Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the
century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.
A study on the design features for sports bra styles according to treadmill running speeds and bra cup sizes
Jang, Yumi ; Chun, Jongsuk ; Lee, Haedong ; Han, Boram ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 81~92
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.081
Many women feel pain in their breasts while running due to an excessively large degree of breast movement. Therefore, most sports bras pursue a reduction in breast movement. The purpose of this study is to investigate the breast movement reduction effect of a selection of sports bra designs according to the intensity of the sport and the breast size of the wearer. The study measured differences in the vertical movement of the nipple with 4 types of sports bras and 3 exercise speeds(4km/h, 7km/h, and 10km/h). Subjects included women in their 20s with bra sizes of either B cup(n=3) or C cup(n=3). The results of the study are as follows. Breast movement differed according to running speed and breast size; breast movement significantly increased starting with jogging speed(7km/h), and the C-cup group had a larger degree of vertical movement than the B-cup group. A superior effect on breast movement during jogging(7km/h) and sprinting(10km/h) was observed differently by bra cup sizes. To C-cup group, encapsulation-style sports bra, which provides horizontal support across the upper breast and padding inside the shoulder strap and bra cup to ease impact was most effective and next effective style was the compression-style bra with a princess line to cover the breasts solidly. Most style sports bra were effective in the B-cup group. Besides aforementioned encapsulation-style sports bra, the compression-style bra with a band, which presses the breasts against the chest wall, reduced breast movement effectively.
A study on the textile pattern design of fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections
Lee, Eun Oak ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 93~116
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.093
This paper explored and compared the textile pattern and motive design of fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. In particular, this study put it focus on textile pattern design of seven fashion design brands such as Roverto Cavalli and Versace, etc., which were collaborated with H&M. The color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique were collected from fashion internet sites over the five year period, and then were cross-sectionally examined and compared based on their color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique of products between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. The analyses showed the following results: First, the similar color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern were found between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections, in order to show the perspective texture of products to consumers. Second, H&M collaboration brands demonstrated unique textile design of H&M rather than the trendy design patterns. Finally, the textile design pattern used in H&M collection was more restricted in terms of motive expression technique and chromaticity than that used in fashion designers' brands.
Influence of time pressure on the purchase decision making process in apparel shopping
Moon, Ji-Young ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 117~128
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.117
Studies show that time pressure affects the purchase decision-making process of consumers. However, in the case of apparel shopping, few studies have looked into the influence of time pressure on the purchase decision-making process. This study aims to determine how perceived time pressure in apparel shopping, time pressure situations, and product type and the interactions between these variables influence the clothing purchase process. An empirical study was conducted among males and females in their 20s and 30s. Perceived time pressure in apparel shopping was measured using four items. Time pressure situations and product types were given in the form of scenarios. A
experimental design was used, and perceived time pressure in apparel shopping, time pressure situations, and product type were used to create eight different situations. The dependent variables included decision-making speed, anticipated regret, and anticipated purchase satisfaction. Data from 512 subjects were collected through an online data collection. Results showed that the high perceived time pressure group and the shopping situation with time pressure involved a significantly high level of decision-making time, anticipated regret, and anticipated purchase satisfaction. Marketers must understand the real-time pressure situations of consumers.
Role of risk reduction strategies in shopping online for fashion products
Lee, Jung Eun ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 129~138
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.129
Consumers' perception of risk plays a major role in how they make online purchase decisions. Since online shopping is perceived to be riskier than in-store shopping, consumers engage in a variety of risk reduction strategies such as searching online for alternative products and alternative e-tailers. This study examines the influence of risk involvement on risk reduction strategies and customer satisfaction. It discusses three aspects of risk reduction strategies: time spent in making a purchasing decision, searching for alternative e-tailers, and searching for alternative products. Data from 294 female shoppers who had experience in purchasing fashion products online was analyzed. This study found that risk involvement had a positive influence on the time spent in making decisions, while the influence of risk involvement on searching for alternative retailers and alternative products was not significant. However, consumer satisfaction was negatively related to search for alternative retailers and positively related to risk involvement. This study provides a better understanding of customers' risk involvement and risk reduction strategies in online shopping. This information would be beneficial for marketers and retailers to reduce customer perception of risks and to promote online sales.
Development of a system for sustainable fashion from recycled clothes - Based on U.S. fashion brands -
Song, Hwa Kyung ; Lewis, Van Dyke ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 1, 2013, Pages 139~150
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.1.139
Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.