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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 21, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 21, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 21, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 21, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 21, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 21, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
Japanism in modern fashion - From 2001 S/S to 2011 S/S -
Kim, Sun Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 151~166
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.151
This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of
century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.
The preference factors and usage levels of fashion trade area in Seoul as determined by shopping orientation
Lim, Yoo Sun ; Kim, Mi Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 167~182
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.167
The purposes of this study were to identify dimensions of shopping orientation and preferences of fashion trade areas, to test differences in the preference factors and usage levels of fashion trade areas as determined by shopping orientation and demographic characteristics. Questionnaires were administered to 406 adults in their twenties and thirties visited major fashion trade area in Seoul. The results of the study were as follows. First, five groups were identified based on shopping orientation: combined value-oriented group, convenience-oriented group, hedonic value trend-oriented group, economic-value oriented group and brand-oriented group. Second, the most frequently visited trade area was Myungdong, and there were significant differences in the usage levels of the trade areas except Dongdaemun, Samsung station COEX, Jamsil and Gangnam Express Bus Terminal among the groups determined by shopping orientation. Sinsa Garosoogil, Apgujeong Chungdam and Samsung Station COEX were preferred by hedonic value trend-oriented group. Daehakro and Myungdong were preferred by combined value-oriented group and convenience-oriented group. Third, significant differences were also found in all groups in the preference factors of the trade area as determined by shopping orientation groups when purchasing clothing. Forth, female preferred Gangnam Express Bus Station and Jamsil than male did. Those who in their early twenties preferred Daehakro and Myungdong the most and those who in early thirties and late twenties concerned service policy the most. The results imply that the consumers tend to visit the nearest fashion trade area by their residence(or work, school) and consider the location and accessibility of the trade area as the most important factor.
An assessment of the production of padded jackets in casual brands and a study of padded jacket patterns for women in their 20s
Lee, Hea-Seung ; Suh, Mi-A ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 183~194
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.183
In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.
Eco T-shirt designs inspired by paintings of Whan-ki Kim
Lee, Kyoung-Hee ; Kim, Lae-Youn ; Kim, Sae-Bom ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 195~205
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.195
Eco T-shirts have become a part of environmental campaigns following social trends toward eco-friendly designs. With the demand for such designs expected to grow, there has arisen a need for higher product variety. In the past, eco T-shirts were designed to convey messages about the protection of nature through the use of environmentally friendly text or images. However, in order to respond to the preferences and emotional needs of Koreans, designs should cater to their characteristics and tastes. To this end, this study used a Whan-ki Kim-inspired motif to develop an eco-friendly design tailored to Korean perspectives. It is believed that this process can not only result in a distinctive eco T-shirt design, but also make it globally competitive. With regard to research methodology, a total of 41 paintings of Whan-ki Kim were analyzed and classified into four major themes or key values expressed in modern eco-friendly fashion designs: naturalness, indigenousness, harmony between nature and man, and harmony between natural and artificial beauty. Employing a wide range of CAD techniques and varying forms, the themes were developed into 28 T-shirt designs after their forms, tones, and textures were fully explored. This study demonstrates the possibility of designing creative, aesthetic, and high value-added eco T-shirts through motif development. In addition, it successfully integrates Korean paintings in the development of T-shirt designs aimed at communicating environmentally friendly messages.
Research on consumer responses according to linguistic characteristics of fashion brand slogans
Yoh, Eunah ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 206~219
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.206
In this study, it is explored how fashion brand slogans are categorized by linguistic characteristics and which linguistic characteristic is effective to improve consumer responses. Only 28% out of 1,346 fashion brands that are investigated are using slogans. Sportswear and men's wear are two product categories more often adopting slogans. A total of 11,113 consumers participated in the experimental study to evaluate slogan characteristics (familiarity, understandability, newness, pleasure), slogan attitude, and brand recall of 30 slogan-brand sets that were categorized by Park's 10 linguistic characteristics. In findings, slogans generating positive attitudes toward slogans and a good rate of brand recall tend to have no brand name in slogan, be written in the second-person view, include a futuristic message, and have information weighted on specialties. Slogan typology suggested based on results may be used for the future research as a basic guideline for the research on fashion brand slogans.
Antecedents and consequences of trust and commitment in apparel manufacturer-contractor relationships: The moderating role of length of relationship
Park, Na Ri ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 220~233
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.220
This study examined regarding the moderating effect of length of relationship in the relationship among the antecedent variables (i.e., specific investment, opportunistic behavior, communication, uncertainty, interdependence, power imbalance, shared value, and flexibility) of trust and commitment, trust and commitment and firm performance and relationship satisfaction. A total of 128 apparel manufacturers participated in this study. Flexibility exerted the most positive effect on trust in short-term relationship, followed by specific investment. And opportunistic behavior was found to exert negative effect on trust. Commitment was found to be most negatively affected by power imbalance, followed by interdependence. Trust was shown to be significantly affected by communication, shared value and flexibility in short-term relationship. In the case of long-term relationship, commitment was shown to be significantly affected by uncertainty, interdependence, power imbalance and flexibility. Firm performance was positively affected by both trust and commitment. As for the effect of trust and commitment on relationship satisfaction, relationship satisfaction was also affected by both trust and commitment. In case the length of relationship, firm performance was affected by both trust and commitment. As for the effect of trust and commitment on relationship satisfaction, relationship satisfaction was also affected by both trust and commitment. The result of this research provides valuable data for making a concrete suggestion regarding the strategy for improving trust and commitment for the sake of the desirable relationship between apparel manufacturers and contractors.
The implicit meaning of British fashion into English culture identity
Jeong, Hye Yeon ; Seo, Seung Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 234~245
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.234
The modern fashion was developed the basis on the western dress structure and its historical flow was continued until today. Particularly, the Britain has coexised the unique cultural identity in the aristocratic high culture and rebellious tendency of the subculture so it is necessary to the consideration about whole culture in order to grasp the British fashion identity. The purpose of this study was shown the methodological framework of the culture identity research of one country through the background of this formation of culture and process high culture and subculture study by analysis the culture identity in the today's Britain. Also, the purpose of this study that it draws whether the feature of the British fashion shows up as any aspect in this culture identity. The range of this study subdivides and considers with the imperialism, industrial revolution, aristocratism, union nations, and geographical aspect as the island country into the economy, politics, society, and natural characteristic about the Englishness and the notion of British culture then it draws the dichotomy of the British fashion through the culture identity formed in this society cultural background with both sides in the high culture and subculture aspect.
Developing a prototype of bi-stretch pants for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower bodies
Ha, Hee-Jung ; Seong, Ok-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 246~260
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.246
This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.
Professional climbers' demand for movement functionality in pants
Jung, Semi ; Chun, Jongsuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 261~271
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.261
This study aimed to identify professional climbers'demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded 'knees', 'inner thighs' and 'hips' while their female counterparts most commonly responded 'inner thighs', 'exposed back and waist' and 'hips' in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.
The factors influencing consumers' perceived complexity of online apparel mass customization service usage
Moon, Heekang ; Lee, Hyun-Hwa ; Chang, Eunyoung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 272~286
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.272
Mass customization is a marketing strategy to meet consumer needs for variation and uniqueness of products. Although there are quite a few studies quantitatively investigated the options provided by mass customization process, scholarly work related to mass customization has provided mixed results on consumer perception of complexity and their responses. The purpose of the study is to derive the factors that influence consumer complexity perception in online apparel mass customization process and consumers' needs to enhance mass customization services. Data were collected by conducting focus group interviews of which 29 participations in 4 groups. The results of the study suggested that consumers perceived complexity through mass customization process due to too many choice options. However, the effect of number of options on respondents' complexity perception was different depending on consumer characteristics such as consumer expertise and fashion involvement, and the characteristics of consumer preference development. Shopping context such as shopping purpose is another moderating factor. This study also suggests that a variety of marketing strategies which can enhance mass customization services affect the relationship between the number of options and consumers' complexity perception. The findings of the study provide academic and managerial implications.
An exploratory analysis and usability evaluation of fashion mobile applications - Focus on Korea and U.S. App stores -
Ju, Na-An ; Lee, Davin ; Jeon, Hyung Min ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 287~300
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.287
The aim of this study was to find typology of fashion-related mobile applications through exploratory investigation and to investigate differences in Korea and U.S. App stores. And then, through the qualitative evaluation about fashion mobile applications, this study proposes fashion mobile application's design and contents which can be preferred by users. By conducting keyword search in each store, 122 Korean applications and 150 US applications were analyzed. Empirical findings revealed that there were seven major types of fashion mobile applications: brand, magazine, information, SNS, game, shopping and coordination. Information type applications took up the largest portion, and SNS and game type applications showed higher ranking among customers. There were more game Apps in US and more shopping Apps in Korean stores. More free Apps were found in Korean App stores, whereas relatively more paid Apps were found in US App stores especially in game, magazine and information type applications. And as a result of usability evaluation of fashion mobile application, users prefer SNS and information category application to shopping and brand category. Also users want continuous improvement and new contents for fashion mobile application.
Fashion consumer segmentation through socio-lifestyles - Bangkok samples -
Cholachatpinyo, Anothai ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 2, 2013, Pages 301~308
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.2.301
The purpose of this research is to classify fashion consumers based on their attitudes, goals and values of life. It is to understand what drives human behaviors as well as to learn the various directions people live in society using Bangkok people as the samples. Online and on-site questionnaire survey is employed. Questions are designed to focus on 7 aspects of life, ranging from private life, professional life, social life, politics, culture and information interaction, household business and finance, and consumption of products and services in the main market. The research results can be used to classify consumers' lifestyles into 20 major and numerous minor groups of lifestyle. Lifestyles of male and female samples are compared to investigate their different patterns and directions. Fashion trend diagram is used to analyze the overlapped lifestyles of mass consumers. The lifestyle segmentations would benefit to designer and fashion branding team in understanding their target group deeper inside the background of their behaviors.