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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 21, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 21, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 21, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 21, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 21, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 21, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
Expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism in contemporary women's fashion
Park, Kyurey ; Lee, Younhee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 613~628
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.613
This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.
A study on the relationship between skin care of attitudes and behavior
Lee, Ji-Young ; Park, Kil-Soon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 629~638
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.629
The purpose of this study is to predict skincare behavior from the perspective of theories about planned behaviors and a systematic structure for identifying influences on human behavior; Consequently, this study attempted to undertake a concrete analysis of influences on skin care behavior. The results showed that: an attempt was made to analyze structural equation modeling as to whether or not to apply Ajzen's theory of planned behavior to skin care behavior. This study found the possibility that the theory of planned behavior might be applicabled to the research model composed of skin care attitude, the norms of skin care, behavioral control on skin care, behavioral intentions of skin care, and skin care behavior at the appropriate level in their entirety. This study found that external control factors of skin care behavior had the highest effect on skin care behavior among other factors.
Antecedents of dressing style
Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 639~654
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.639
Understanding consumers' being well and stylishly dressed is a key for marketers' success in ever changing fashion industry. The purpose of this study is to identify the antecedents of dressing style. As antecedents, personal values and clothing-related variables were considered: this study included physical appearance, materialism, and individualism as personal values and quality conscious, price conscious, and brand conscious as clothing related variables. It was hypothesized that personal values influence dressing style both directly and indirectly through clothing related variables. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Three hundred eleven questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis, exploratory factor analysis using SPSS and confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis using structural equation modeling. The results showed that all the fit statistics for the variable measures were quite acceptable. In addition, the overall fits of the model suggest that the model fits the data well. The hypothesized relationship test also showed that individualism among personal values directly influences dressing style and that only price consciousness among clothing-related variables influences dressing style. With respect to the relative importance, individualism showed the largest standardized regression weight. The results suggest effective product, price, and promotion strategies for marketers whose target market is style conscious consumers.
Textile design development using of traditional elements - Focused on patterns and colors of King Young royal family costume in the late Joseon Dynasty -
Yum, Misun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 655~670
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.655
The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.
Middle-school boys' shoes purchasing behavior according to their shoes shopping orientation
Lee, Jeongsook ; Kim, Yongsook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 671~683
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.671
The purpose of this study was to identify middle-school boys' purchase behavior according to their shoes shopping orientation. A self-administered questionnaire was used to collect from 314 subjects. Factor analysis, Chi-square test, and one-way ANOVA were done using SPSS PC (Ver. 18.0). Most middle-school boys selected shoes that were 255~270mm, possessed on to two pairs of school shoes, searched for information for about five days before purchase, had spent 50,000~150,000 won on one to two pairs of shoes during the previous six months, saw design, comfort, and brand as their selection criteria, chose their shoes by themselves, shoes specialty stores, had favorite brands, preferred athletic shoes made of achromatic canvas, and bought new shoes when their old ones wore out. Factors of shoe shopping orientation were fashion and brand, economy, conformity, and comfort, and students were grouped into an active shopping group, an underdeveloped shopping orientation group, and a value pursuit group. The active shopping group bought more shoes, spent more on shoes, selected their shoes themselves, patronized discount shoe stores or specialty stores, and preferred national brand shoes. The underdeveloped shopping orientation group accepted their friends' opinions when selecting shoes and bought cheaper shoes. The value pursuit group accepted their parents' opinions when selecting shoes, patronized internet shopping malls or traditional markets, and selected cheaper shoes. The shoe shopping orientation of middle-school boys was immature, but they showed strong consumption needs.
A study on the expression of t-shirt design using Hangeul calligraphy
Kim, Ki Hoon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 684~698
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.684
Interest and desire for analogue emotion increased with the dazzling development of digital technology. Especially, as analogue emotion got grafted in the design field, analysis through various expression media is being done. This study seeks to propose design of t-shirt using unique advantage of Hangeul calligraphy that can satisfy the modern flow and pattern design's various expressions. Calligraphy is being used in various fields such as advert, package, logo, movie poster, signboard, graphic design, calligraphy and abstract painting. Formative yet effective in readability and conveying meaning as it's expressed in letters, calligraphy is a field of attention with its contribution in extending the new design area. As a method of the study, altogether 8 pieces of t-shirts were proposed through related preceding research, literary research, co-work with calligraphy author, computer graphic program, and heat transfer. As such, the t-shirt designs which were created by suggesting various design and using traditional materials like calligraphy, can be used as novel and sensual factor, where one can get a glimpse at the potential of development as traditional fashion product.
Natural dyeing of silk fabrics dyed with extracts of Thuja orientalis
Kim, Sang Yool ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 699~707
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.699
The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract were 100% v/v,
, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods with increasing mordant concentration. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Cu or Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Thuja orientalis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction. The dyed and mordanted fabric with Thuja orientalis extract showed a superior ultraviolet protection property.
Characteristics study of women's skinny jeans patterns by brand
Oh, Seol Young ; Suh, Dong Ae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 708~725
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.708
In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans' sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.
Generational malling culture in multi-complex shopping malls - Entertainment experiences -
Park, Minjung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 726~741
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.726
Malling culture, which refers to the enjoyment of shopping in multi-complex malls with shopping, cultural, and leisure facilities, has emerged as a major trend in society. However, few studies have researched malling culture in depth. This study classified people who go to multi-complex shopping malls as belonging to the baby-boom generation, X-generation, or Y-generation to investigate consumer culture in malls, with an emphasis on user satisfaction and entertainment experiences. Consumers who had shopped in a multi-complex shopping mall during the last 6 months were surveyed. Data were collected through a research company, and responses from 417 subjects were used in the analysis. Among the 417 subjects, 130 were baby-boomers, 136 were from the X-generation, and 151 were from the Y-generation. Investigating the components of multi-complex shopping malls that stimulate entertainment experiences, this study found that exploratory, emotional, and leisure experiences were enhanced when users were more satisfied with the image, atmosphere, and events of shopping malls. In addition, mall image and atmosphere contributed to the improvement of social experiences. With regard to generation, baby-boomers and subjects from the X-generation were generally more satisfied with mall atmosphere, image, and events and had more exploratory and leisure experiences. This study holds significance in that it examined malling culture from a wider perspective than simply the younger generation and presented scholarly and marketing implications based on insights into generational malling culture.
A study on the sleeve angles and gusset for the improvement of movability in a basic Kimono sleeve - Focusing on the standard body type in their thirties -
Kwon, Soon Kyo ; Jeong, Jae Chul ; Park, Sun Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 742~754
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.742
This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately
and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of
of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of
of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of
. Also, in the results of experiment on
angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over
in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.
Padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness for women in their 20s
Lee, Hea-Seung ; Suh, Mi-A ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 755~764
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.755
This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.
The middle-aged consumer's using active wear as casual wear based on the clothing benefits
Lee, Yeon Jung ; Park, Myung-Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 765~779
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.765
This paper studied why middle-aged group is using active wear as casual wear. First, we can think of 'comfort', 'ideal body shape', 'trend', 'functionality', 'economy' for the reasons. We categorized the incentives as 'comfort/functionality pursuits', 'trend/economy pursuits', and 'ideal body shape pursuits'. Studies showed that statistically significant number of men pursue comfort and functionality, and statically significant number of women pursue trend and economy. Second, this study shows that the number of consumers who use the active wear in daily lives is greater than that of those who use it only for outdoor activities. The difference was statistically significant in T-shirts and pants. The most frequent usage was in social activities, and the next frequent usage was in cultural activities. The reason is that currently, middle-aged consumers are actively participating in social gatherings than any other activities. Especially, considering that the men wear active wear more than the women do, development of the product as men's casual wear that is compatible with other apparels will be necessary. We expect this study will be used as the preliminary data for a marketing strategy targeting the middle-ages.
Origins of central Asian silk ikats
Hann, M.A. ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 21, issue 5, 2013, Pages 780~791
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.780
This paper is concerned with the development of the silk trade and in particular with silk-ikat production. Early origins are explained and issues relating to the development of long-distance trade are discussed. The principal trading participants are identified and the focus is turned to silk-ikat production in Central Asia. It is recognised that the vast bulk of trade, along what became known as the 'Silk Route' (or 'Silk Road'), did not involve straight-forward or direct exchange between powers to the far east of the route and powers to the far west, but rather was done in stages between adjacent or not too distant locations. Diffusion of ideas was not therefore immediate and operational at one eastern or western extreme of a trading network but, rather, was a gradual process influencing adjacent participants, at stages between the geographic extremes over a long period of time.