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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 22, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 22, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 22, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
Dyeing of silk with natural dyes from Atractylodes japonica
Kim, Sang Yool ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 361~370
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.361
The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were
and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.
Impacts of health and environment consciousness on pro-environmental clothing purchasing and disposal behaviors
Kim, Yongsook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 371~382
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.371
The purposes of this study were to categorize of pro-environmental clothing purchasing and disposal behaviors and to identify impacts of health and environment consciousness on pro-environmental clothing purchase and disposal behaviors. The subjects were homemakers (n=381), and they were segmented into LOHAS group, environment conscious group, unconscious group, and wellbeing group according to their health and environment consciousness. Older homemakers were included in LOHAS group and environment conscious group. And these homemakers performed pro-environmental clothing purchasing and disposal behaviors better than wellbeing group or unconscious group. Health consciousness was positively related with the second-hand clothing purchasing and recycling. Environment consciousness was positively related with clothing made with organic, natural or functional materials, or the second-hand clothing purchasing, and recycling of the second-hand clothing. There was a need to develop continuing education programs to strengthen homemakers' health and environment consciousness, or to upgrade their pro-environmental clothing purchase and disposal behaviors.
Exploring the values of Marc Jacobs's fashion collaboration
Kim, Sun Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 383~398
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.383
This research worked on the cooperative case by Marc Jacobs, who was involved in innovative collaboration in the field of fashion, and the analysis on imbedded values. With assessment of it, this paper aims at providing the theoretical ground on prevalence of fashion collaboration for creative innovation and presenting the basic material in establishing the design and marketing in the fashion industry. In methodology, the review was followed up about literature regarding Marc Jacobs and collaboration and his cases in 2001 through 2012. Results showed that his collaboration cases could be divided into those with modern artist, those with fashion brand or designer, those with other field brand than fashion, and those with the public star. They were processed into such a form as development of new product and collection, shop display, and exhibition event. The value could be drawn from this case examination of Marc Jacobs' fashion collaboration, which includes the design innovation through reinterpretation of tradition, innovation of maximized brand value, and transboundary innovation toward a vast extension of realm. Namely, the collaboration of Marc Jacobs would be the driving force for design innovation and the creative process for both parties concerned through endless cooperation and would generate the innovative value for fashion field.
A study on emotional images and preference of knitwear according to tone on tone combination
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Suh, Seo-Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 399~410
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.399
The purpose of this study was to investigate emotional images and preference of knitwear by tone on tone combination. The subjects were 357 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province, and the measuring instruments were 6 stimuli manipulated by color and tone combination type of background and pattern in the tone and tone combination, and self-administrated questionnaires consisted of emotional images items, preference items, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's
, factor analysis, t-test, MANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, four factors (attractiveness, conspicuity, mildness, and activity) are emerged on emotional images of knitwear. Second, color had main effects on emotional images and preference. Gray color was perceived as most attractive image and more preferred than others. Third, tone combination type had some effects on emotional images. Vivid tone background/light tone pattern was perceived more attractive image but less conspicuous and mild than light tone background/vivid tone pattern. Forth, subjects' gender had an effects on conspicuous image. Male was perceived more conspicuous image on knitwear stimuli than female. Fifth, color and subjects' gender had interaction effects on attractiveness image and preference. Male perceived that blue is more attractive and preferred than female.
Role-relaxed consumption: Consumption related variables as antecedents and fashion consciousness as a consequence
Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 411~430
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.411
The purpose of this study is to identify the antecedents and consequence of role-relaxed consumption. Consumption-related variables were considered as antecedents, and fashion-related variable was considered as a consequence. Hedonic consumption, impulse buying, value consciousness, and brand sensitivity were included as consumption-related variables and fashion consciousness was included as a fashion-related variable. It was hypothesized that hedonic consumption, impulse buying, value consciousness, and brand sensitivity influence rolerelaxed consumption and then influence fashion consciousness. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Two hundred twenty seven questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis, exploratory factor analysis using SPSS and confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis using AMOS. While hedonic consumption, impulse buying, value consciousness, and brand sensitivity were uni-dimensions, role-relaxed consumption and fashion consciousness were multi-dimensions. Factor analysis of role-relaxed consumption revealed two dimensions, 'self-centered decision making' factor and 'importance of intrinsic value' factor. In addition, factor analysis of fashion conscious revealed three dimensions, 'individualism' factor, 'dressing style' factor, and 'appearance' factor. Tests of the hypothesized path show that impulse buying and brand sensitivity negatively influence 'self-centered decision making' and that hedonic consumption and value consciousness negatively influence 'importance of intrinsic value'. While 'self-centered decision making'negatively influence 'dressing style' and 'appearance, 'importance of intrinsic value' negatively influences all factors of fashion consciousness. The implications of these findings and suggestions for future study are also discussed.
Research on the dyeability and functional property of citrus peel extract as a natural dye
Kim, Kihoon ; Kim, Haegong ; Lim, Hyuna ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 431~439
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.431
This research verified the usefulness and practicality of citrus peel extract as a natural dye. This study dyed cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics using citrus peel extract, and measured the dyeability and functional property to verify their usefulness and practicality. The dyeing affinity of the citrus peel extract was measured by dyeing under alkaline conditions to determine the temperature and time for optimal dyeing conditions of the solution. The results show that a temperature and time of
and 30 minutes were optimal for dyeing cotton fabrics with citrus peel extract,
and 60 minutes for silk fabrics, and
and 60 minutes for cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics, respectively. In addition the results of measuring the color fastness of the cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics dyed with the citrus peel extract show that the color fastness was superior for washing, friction, sweat, and water. However, the color fastness for sunlight appeared to be slightly weak. In addition, it was found that fabric dyed with the citrus peel extract showed partial antimicrobial properties. The antimicrobial property appeared the greatest in the silk fabric. The cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics had 90% or more Staphylococcus aureus present, but the antimicrobial properties were not high in the cotton fabric. Additionally, the heavy metal content, which is harmful to the human body, appeared to be lower than standard figures, so the dye was found to be innocuous to humans. Therefore, when the results of this study are put together, citrus peel extract is sufficiently useful and practical as an ingredient for a natural dye. Moreover, there is ample possibility to develop citrus peel dyed fabrics as environmentally friendly fashion materials.
A study on the state of brassiere size and wearing habits of Korean adolescent girls
Jo, Munju ; Chun, Jongsuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 440~449
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.440
The purpose of this study was to investigate the suitability of brassiere size and wearing habits of Korean adolescent girls. Subjects were 13 to 17 years old girls (n=282). The data was collected by anthropometric survey and qualitative questionnaire survey. Anthropometric survey measured bust and under bust girths; Qualitative questionnaire survey focused on the practice of purchasing and wearing of brassiere. Two general conclusions emerged: 1) Majority of Korean adolescent girls wore a smaller sized cup than their breast volume 2) Korean adolescent girls wore a larger sized band. These results show the need of educating Korean adolescent girls for their appropriate brassiere size and fit. The value of the brassiere that Korean adolescent girls place differed by age. While the younger adolescent girls expected their brassiere to prevent showing the breast vibration, the older adolescent girls expected their brassiere to avoid breast sagging. The older aged adolescents more valued the fit and style of the brassiere compared to the younger aged group when they purchase brassiere. The younger adolescent girls were more likely to be dissatisfied with the fit of the cup. These results reveal that the junior brassiere should be designed to fit adolescent girls' breast shape and size.
Madness images shown in editorial fashion photographs in Vogue Italia since 2000
Lee, Chaiyoung ; Ha, Jisoo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 450~467
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.450
Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.
Sportswear customers' level of involvement, satisfaction with functionality, and repurchase intentions - A review of sports participation motives -
Rhee, YoungJu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 468~480
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.468
This study aimed to identify the effects of sports participation motives, the involvement in choosing sportswear, and the satisfaction with/perceived importance of sportswear functionality, on customers' repurchase intentions. A total of 185 survey questionnaires were analyzed after surveying 200 female undergraduates in their 20s. The research results are as follows. First, the participation motives for sports were categorized as follows. A factor analysis conducted on 13 questions yielded 4 factors. Factor 1 included consideration about socializing and pleasure, factor 2 privileged ostentation, factor 3 was concerned with enhancing health, and factor 4 was about maintaining appearance. Second, the various effects of different sports participation motives, of the satisfaction with functionality, and of the involvement in buying sportswear on customers' repurchase intentions were analyzed. The intention to repurchase sportswear was considered as a dependent variable, while the motives for participating in sports, the satisfaction with functionality, and the level of involvement were treated as independent variables. A multiple regression analysis using these variables showed that the satisfaction with functionality and involvement in choosing sportswear had a significant impact on the intention to repurchase sportswear. Third, looking at how different participation motives for sports affected the importance of sportswear functionality, the motives related to socializing and pleasure and ostentation, the sub-factors in sports participation motives, significantly increased the importance of comfort. Motives related to enhancing health and maintaining appearance, on the other hand, were found to affect the importance of sports performance. Fourth, a MANOVA was performed to examine the difference in the importance of functionality between those consumers highly involved in sportswear-buying and those less involved. Those with a high level of involvement were found to prioritize sports performance over comfort. Those with a low level of involvement were shown to place a greater emphasis on comfort.
Analysis for target age 20' & 30' women's apparel print design - Revolve around trend from 2010 to 2013 -
Im, So Young ; Seo, Eun Young ; Kim, Min Jung ; Park, Sun Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 481~502
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.481
This study intended to identify the relationship between textile print designs for local apparel, and fashion trends. This was achieved by extracting trend key words and analyzing apparel textiles. The fashion trends and print trends from the 2010S/S season to the 2013F/W season as projected by two trend forecasters, the Samsung Fashion Institute and First View Korea, were extracted for a comparative analysis. In terms of clothing patterns, a total of 1,582 print designs purchased by local apparel brands targeting women in their 20s and 30s from print design companies including Italy's NEWAGE, MyDesign and England's Pattern, were analyzed. After classifying the designs according to the trend key words which had been extracted, the demands by season, trend dependency, and design preferences were analyzed to produce the following results. The major key words for textile print designs from the 2010S/S season to the 2013F/W season were Check & Stripe, Flower, Geometric, Natural, Ethnic, and Graphical. Patterns corresponding to those design key words were more prominent in recent designs. Considering the trends by season, the designs presented in the F/W season were found to be more likely to correspond to the trend key words than those in the S/S season. A general preference for nature-inspired designs was also found in the local print market.
A study on the washing efficiency with various washing conditions - Focus on detergent concentration and temperature -
Choi, In-Ryu ; Kim, Taemi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 3, 2014, Pages 503~510
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.3.503
Nowdays, costumer's washing behavior were often times for remove to light-duty dirt. The purpose of this study is to provide the most effective washing conditions of detergent concentration and temperature conditions for help save energy and water resources required to the washing process. Washing conditions were as follows: 2 kinds of detergents and 4 types of artificially soiled fabrics were used. Detergent concentration was 0%, -10%, and -20% below the recommended conc. of manufacturer's standard. Temperature of bath was
. The results of this study were as follows: First, washing performances of all kind of artificially soiled fabric improved as the temperature of bath at
. Second, the test was conducted under the condition of decreasing respectively -10% and -20% below of the recommended concentration of manufacturer's standard detergent. The average of washing efficiency was not considerably affected by the reduction of 10% below of manufacturer's standard. Third, in case of the water temperature were
, polyester/cotton blended fiber were higher degree of washing efficiency than cotton fiber.