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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 22, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 22, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 22, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
A comparative study of Grunge style in high fashion of the 1990s and beyond
Kwon, Sang Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 873~889
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.873
The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals` attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women`s Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today`s designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.
Fabric dyeing with Laminaria japonica as a marine resources
Kim, Sangyool ; Jeon, Soonduk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 890~898
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.890
This study focuses on the effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting conditions, changes of colorfastness, antibacterial properties and UV protective of silk fabric dyed with Laminaria japonica extracts. A natural colorant was extracted from Laminaria japonica using distilled water as extractants. According to the results, maximum dye uptake (K/S) were obtained at 100% V/V colorant concentration,
, 60 min and pH 2. Silk fabric was dyed with Laminaria japonica extract at
for 60 min with pre-treatment or post-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. The Laminaria japonica extracts produced yellow hue on silk fabric in pre-mordanting and manifested green yellow hue mordanted with
in post-mordanting method. Mordant
for silk fabric was found to give good light fastness (rating 4). UV protection property did not increase significantly upon mordanting.
The perception and wearing attitude toward school uniform by group according to clothing attitude - Focusing on high school students -
Kim, Ju Ae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 899~910
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.899
The purpose of this study was to analyze high school students` school uniform wearing attitude by group according to clothing attitude targeting Gyeongnam area. This study aims to provide preliminary data in the field of school uniform and marketing that clothing propensity by groups is considered. This study conducted a survey targeting 762 high school students in Gyeongnam. For statistical analysis, SPSS for Window 14.0 was used for frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, multiple sponse analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA analysis and Duncan`s ex-post analysis method. As a result of cluster analysis on the clothing attitude, students were divided into 4 segmentation of fashion seeking group, fashion indifference group, conformity group and modesty group. As a result of verification on the difference in perception toward wearing school uniform by groups which were classified according to the propensity of clothing attitude, activity, stability, and practicality were all varied according to the propensity of clothing attitude. 4 groups were significant differences in the degree of consent to wearing school uniform, price of school uniforms, tendency to prefer famous brand when purchasing school uniform, experience of transforming school uniform, opinion about school uniform modification and reason for school uniform modification. While low graders were many in `modesty group`, upper graders were many in `fashion seeking group`, which means that more segmentalized satisfaction of clothing by group may be raised if such a fact is considered when planning clothing for high school students segmentalized by age.
A comparison of fit and appearance between real torso length sloper with 3D virtual torso length sloper
Kim, Youngsook ; Yin, Siya ; Song, Hwa Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 911~929
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.911
This study is designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual torso length sloper with real torso length sloper according to three 3D virtual clothing simulation programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, i-Designer), three body types (A, N, H) and fit status. We selected three representative body type models of females aged 20~30 and got their direct body measurements. Using these body measurements, we developed three 3D avatar body models and made three torso length fitted sloper with long sleeves. Thirty expert fit judges consisting of technical designers and graduate students assessed the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual clothing and real clothing by observing images classified into front, back and side scene. We conducted ANOVA and post-hoc analyses to compare fit and appearance between real clothing and virtual clothing depending on three program. The results showed that CLO 3D represented fit and silhouette most similarly among the programs, especially girths, width and length. i-Designer tended to be relatively good to represent stress fold amount and silhouette. Optitex was assessed relatively better in expressing ease amounts in torso girths and armscye girths, but relatively worse for width, length, stress fold amount and silhouette.
Post-purchase behavior toward fast fashion brands - Applying the expectancy disconfirmation model -
Jeon, Kyung Sook ; Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 930~942
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.930
The purpose of this study is to apply the expectancy disconfirmation model to consumer post-purchase behavior toward fast fashion brands. This study incorporated repurchase intention as a result of consumer satisfaction. It was hypothesized that consumer satisfaction, which is influenced by expectation, perceived performance, and disconfirmation, influences repurchase intention. It was also hypothesized that expectation influences performance. This study examined the brands and prices of the most recent purchases of fast fashion and also examined whether the purchases were planned or unplanned. The hypothesized path was tested and the relative influences of instrumental and symbolic performance on satisfaction were identified. Data were collected from questionnaires answered by 344 university students who were selected by convenience sampling. The results were as follows: 1) Purchased brands were, in the order of frequency of purchase, Uniqlo, Zara, H&M, and Forever21, followed by domestic brands, 8seconds, Spao, and Mixxo. The frequency of unplanned purchase was more than twice higher than planned purchase. 2) Based on expectation and performance, dissatisfactory group was larger than satisfactory group, which were 35.8% and 24.7% respectively. 3) It was revealed from the expectancy disconfirmation model analysis that expectation and performance had positive influence, but cognitive dissonance had negative influence on satisfaction. Satisfaction had significant influence on repurchase intention. The path analysis showed that all hypothesized path coefficients were significant. The results suggest some effective marketing strategies for marketers in the fast fashion industry.
A study on the variation trends and characteristics of the adolescent girls` breast growth based on 3D body measurements - Focused on the ages from 13 to 18 -
Choi, So-Young ; Chun, Jongsuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 943~954
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.943
The purpose of this study was to analyze the breast growth variation trends and characteristics of Korean adolescent girls based on 3D body measurements. Subjects were 174 girls aged between 13 and 18. 3D body scanning data were collected and the data were measured by Geomagic Design X program. The total of 18 anthropometric measurements and 4 index items were analyzed. The main results of this study are as follows: 1) Overall, the breast growth of adolescent girls got out of children`s body shapes at the age of 14 and the adult`s body shapes appeared remarkably at the age of 18. Before the age of 15, the adolescent girls` breast enlarged. 2) The surface lengths of upper body, which means the breast volume, showed significant growth above B cup groups rather than under A cup groups. The demand of B cup size (32.2%) was higher than A cup size (25.9%). And 35.6% of subjects` brassiere band size was 70. 3) The thorax grew evenly in the circumference, depth and breadth. The thoracic development related to the breast volume as well as the whole upper body`s development. These results reveal that it is necessary to develop adolescent girls` brassiere reflecting on adolescent girls` breast growth variation trends and characteristics by age, breast size and thoracic development.
Relationships of sensibility image of mannequin and apparel shop
Choi, Mi-Hwa ; Yoh, Eunah ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 955~964
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.955
This study is to explore the relationships between sensibility images of mannequins and apparel shops. A total of 113 consumers participated in experiments with photo stimuli of 2 mannequin types (realistic and semi-abstract mannequins) and 4 brand shops of women`s casual wear. In results, luxurious, chic, strong, sexy, and young images were more strongly perceived from realistic mannequins than semi-abstract mannequins whereas simple and soft images were more strongly perceived from semi-abstract mannequins than realistic mannequins. Shops using realistic mannequins indicated strong images whereas shops using semi-abstract mannequins presented soft, comfortable, and feminine images. In the correlation analysis, luxurious, chic, strong, and young images of realistic mannequins were consistent with shop images using realistic mannequins. Also, luxurious, chic, soft, comfortable, and feminine images of semi-abstract mannequins were consistent with shop images using semi-abstract mannequins. In order to clearly communicate brand concepts with consumers, mannequin that is a key element of visual merchandising in the apparel shop, should be carefully selected, considering the accordance with shop image.
Lower-body figure analysis of Chinese adult women
Cha, Sujoung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 965~978
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.965
To determine the parameters to be considered when designing lower-body apparel, we analyzed the lower-body figures of adult women in their early 20s from Shanghai, China, using 3-dimensional whole body scanner. Thirty-nine lower-body-related measurements were used to analyze the figures of 210 Chinese women. Obesity and height of the lower body, length from waist to crotch, shape of abdomen, and leg bone length were analyzed. Factor analysis was performed and the results were classified into three clusters. The first cluster describes the obesity of the lower body, the second denotes small hip measurement, and the third describes slim and long legs. This is the first study to quantify figure analysis of the lower body of Chinese women using 3-dimensional body measurements. The findings of this study will provide concrete information regarding crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, waist slope, etc., for designing trouser patterns for Chinese adult women.
The influences of psychological and consumption-related variables on fashion consciousness
Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 979~996
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.979
The purpose of this study is to identify the antecedents of fashion consciousness. As antecedents, psychological variables and consumption-related variables were considered. Materialism and change seeking were included as psychological variables, and face conscious consumption, status consumption, and shopping enjoyment were included as consumption-related variables. It was hypothesized that materialism and change seeking not only influence fashion consciousness directly but also indirectly through face conscious consumption, status consumption, and shopping enjoyment. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Three hundred five questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. The results showed that all the fit statistics for the variable measures were quite acceptable. In addition, the overall fits of the model suggest that the model fits the data well. The hypothesized relationship test proved that materialism directly influence fashion consciousness and that materialism and change seeking influence fashion consciousness indirectly through face conscious consumption and shopping enjoyment. Regarding their relative importance on fashion consciousness, shopping enjoyment was the most influential factor followed by materialism and face conscious consumption, in that order. In developing and implementing marketing strategies for fashion conscious consumers, marketers should focus on satisfying shopping enjoyment, materialism and face conscious consumption.
A study on preferred color of consumer for color planning - With focus on 30s~50s women`s wear -
Shin, Nam-Jin ; Lee, Keum-Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 997~1010
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.997
The purpose of this study is to propose the information and idea that can be applied to color planning by investigating preferred color according to ages, items by distribution of 30s~50s women. As the survey method, questionnaire survey and one-to-one investigation by preparing the color table of basic color and trend color were conducted, and total of 280 questionnaires were used for statistical analysis. The results of this study areas follows. First, in basic color, there were significant differences in preferred hues and tones by age groups. The preferred hues were N, PB in all ages, and the higher the age, the more people preferred vivid tones. Second, in basic color, there was significant difference in preferred hues of jumpers, one-pieces by distribution, and the preferred hue was found to be N in the items except jumpers. There were significant differences in preference tones of all items according to distribution. Third, in trend color, there was no significant difference in preferred hues by age groups. Preferred tones had significant differences by distribution, and the higher the age, the more people preferred vivid tones. Fourth, in trend color, some items had significant differences in preferred hues and tones by distribution. B was preferred in all age groups, and vivid tones were more preferred in wholesaler than the department store. Based on these results, this study proposed 30s~50s women`s wear color planning idea that applied consumers` preferred color according to ages and items by distribution.
A study on fashion brand`s SNS marketing - Based on Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) -
Ko, Ara ; Kim, Sunhee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 1011~1027
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.1011
The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors that lead to continuous use intention of SNS marketing. The research model was designed to investigate the SNS factors that affect use intention based on TAM (Technology Acceptance Model) suggested by Davis (1986). The survey focused on age twenties to thirties male and female who had experience in receiving fashion brands message through Facebook. 329 questionnaires were used to analyze the results of study, and SPSS 12.0 was used to conduct factor analysis, reliability analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this research are as follows. First, interaction/playfulness, information, reliability, and convenience of access were extracted as the characteristics of fashion brands SNS marketing. Second, all SNS factors had significant relation on perceived usefulness. But only interaction/playfulness and convenience of access showed significant relation on perceived ease of use. Third, perceived usefulness and perceived ease of use affected continuous use intention. Forth, continuous use intention had significant relation on brand attitude and showed direct and indirect significant relation to purchase intention.
On confucianism reflected in the description of clothing in the Analects of Confucius
Zhang, Huiqin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 22, issue 6, 2014, Pages 1028~1033
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.6.1028
The paper focuses on the clothing codes described in the Analects of Confucius, and explores the reasons for the rules setting up, including the rules of color, the design, the pattern, and even the material of the clothes whose distinct features reflect the ceremony and etiquette of the time in the classic, which are in correspondence with the requirements of Confucianism, especially for stressing the social rights, obligations and codes of conduct to everyone in the society.