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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 23, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 23, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 23, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 23, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 23, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 23, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Types of fashion photography investigated through sexual masquerade
Park, Seon-Ji ; Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 1~10
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.001
This study, which focuses on a masquerade, starts from the concept that all men exist as visual objects as well as visual subjects before discussing an issue of sexuality to inquire into masquerade characteristics of fashion photography. Masquerade is a concept that can describe various and multidimensional attributes of humans in social norms prescribed separately for men and women till now, and the concept has not yet been introduced in the field of fashion. However, it is considered a measure to analyze contemporary expressions of sexuality, on which a need for this research is raised. This study looks into the basic concept of the object and the ego through a psychoanalysis-related literature review. This study, then inquires into Jacques Lacan's notion of gaze and Roger Caillois's theory of mimicry through related specialty publications. This study reinterprets the concept of masquerade from Lacan's perspective and carries out an empirical analysis of masquerade characteristics in contemporary fashion photography based on the result drawn in parallel. Sexual masquerade shown in fashion photography based on the concept of masquerade is as follows: first, it appears as normative sexual description, divided into male and female by social norms; second, sexual ambiguity, obscuring the distinction between the sexes through playful and bombastic forms; and lastly, sexual subversion, disguising as the opposite sex through putting on clothes of the opposite sex.
A study on the sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits depending on narcissism
Cho, Hyojung ; Cho, Nam Hae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 11~23
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.011
The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in female college students' sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits according to their narcissism. Data collection was conducted through survey for female college students, and a total 221 questionnaires were used for data analyses. For analysis of data, frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and one-way ANOVA were applied. The results were summarized as follows. First, the factor analysis on narcissism resulted in two dimensional structures: self-initiated and other-dependent narcissism. The respondents were categorized into four narcissism groups, such as compositive, self-initiated, other-dependent, and withdrawn narcissism groups. Second, the factor analysis on sociocultural attitude toward appearance resulted in two dimensional structures: internalization and awareness. Five dimensions of pursuit of clothing benefits were identified: individuality, self-expression, fashion, comfort, and social recognition pursuit. Third, there were significant differences among the categorized narcissism groups in sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits. The results confirm that narcissism has an impact on sociocultural attitude toward appearance and pursuit of clothing benefits. It is expected that this study provides insight for apparel makers or retailers to develop their marketing strategies.
Korean adolescent girls' brassiere size demand
Kim, Dohkyung ; Chun, Jongsuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 24~31
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.024
The purpose of this study was to define Korean adolescent girls' brassiere size demand features in order to improve the suitability of junior brassieres for adolescent girls. The subjects for the data collection were Korean teenage girls from age 13 to 17 (n=492). Their body size was collected by conducting anthropometric measurement. The results of this study show that not only the growth of height, but also the growth of the body length is almost finished at the age of 15. The brassiere cup size, which shows the breast growth directly, increased remarkably at age 13 to 14, and once again at age 17. The demand for brassiere band size 70 appeared generally high among all ages. The research also suggests that the band size 60 and over 85 is also needed among the teenage girls. In matters of the brassiere cup size, junior brassieres over B-cup size are also necessary for teenage girls with big breasts to support their heavy breast weight. These results imply that the junior brassiere companies should improve their brassiere size range to fit the teenage girls' breasts properly.
Analysis on the design characteristics of blouse for silver generation in domestic and foreign
Kim, Da Eun ; Lee, Kyoung Hee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 32~44
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.032
Increasing of Korean old women's rate is demographic characteristics attributed an aging society, silver generation would lead to silver fashion market with steady competitiveness and interest in fashion. So the study attempts to use foundation material for silver's fashion design by analyzing design characteristics and processing development of design representative women's top. Selecting brand for collecting photo using study represents a mid- and premium-priced with reference Brand Yearbook. After selecting brand on domestic and foreign I have collected picture from Internet shopping mall and web-site of fashion brand, from October 2013 to July 2014, but I selected 840 pictures based on front poses for easy decision. In order to search design characteristics according to sort of silver blouse design on domestic and foreign. I have examined shape, color, pattern, fabric sensation, inside composition line and decoration with reference standard of analysis in preceding research. Data analysis method was conducted on analysis of frequency and cross analysis using SPSS statistical package 21.0. The conclusion of design characteristic according to type of blouse design for silver, H-silhouette in shirt blouse seems to fit in body transformation and expose silhouette with correcting the body flaw. Using soft material in T-shirt blouse they are able to conceal a body defect and express beautiful silhouette. By using detail in pullover shirt blouse and tunic blouse for point of design, it express glamour and luxurious. Most of blouse are printed various pattern, it would looks more gorgeous using pattern.
The development of cultural products and textile designs with the patterns of Jeju Choga
Yoon, Seong-Hee ; Hong, Heesook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 45~62
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.045
This study is to develop cultural products based on 'Jeju Choga', which means the traditional houses in Jeju. For the product development, old literature review, field surveys, and consumer surveys were employed. Through old literatures and field surveys, the unique and visual characteristics of Jeju Choga were confirmed: A thatched roof with lattice pattern, a side wall and fences with porous stones, a 'Jungnang' serving as a gate, and a 'Pungchai' preventing strong sola radiation and 'Ollai' meaning a narrow street in front of the Choga. As a results of consumer survey conducted before the development of products, consumers highly recognized and associated Jeju Choga as Jeju representative image. The six basic patterns of Jeju Choga were drawn and eight textile designs were created through the repeated arrangements of the basic patterns. Using the created textile designs and digital printing method, the eleven new fabrics with the patterns of Jeju Choga were developed. The various kinds of ten bags and tow wallets made with the new fabrics. As a result of consumer evaluation for the twelve products made in this study, the scores of preference and purchase intention were above the average work for the most products of them. In particular, the preference and purchase intention of the square shoulder bag, the big-size shopper bag, and the small-size cross bag were very positively evaluated. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Choga could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.
The effect of congruency of parent brand image with self-image, perceived risk, and product knowledge on the attitude towards extended product in fashion brand extension - Focusing on moderating effects -
Rhee, YoungJu ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 63~73
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.063
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of congruency of parent brand image with self-image, perceived risk, and product knowledge on the attitude towards extended product in fashion brand extension. A survey questionnaire was used to collect data from 170 female college students and collected data were subjected to descriptive analysis and regression analysis using SPSS Window program. The results of this study showed that the congruency of parent brand image with self-image and perceived risk had a positive effect on attitude towards extended product, whereas product knowledge had a negative effect on attitude towards extended product in fashion brand extension. Also, the congruency of parent brand image with self-image had a positive effect on the attitude towards extended product in fashion brand extension with positive moderating effect of perceived risk and negative mediating effect of product knowledge.
The symbolic meaning shown in the portraits of King Henry VIII
Kim, Ju Ae ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 74~84
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.074
The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.
Application of the fashion therapy to reduce negative emotions of female patients
Yoh, Eunah ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 85~101
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.085
In this study, it is explored the effect of fashion therapy on depression, positive emotion, negative emotion, appearance interest, body satisfaction, self-esteem, and self-efficacy of female patients. Eight cancer patients and 12 general patients participated in the 4-week fashion therapy program. When comparing results before and after the fashion therapy, depression and negative emotions were significantly decreased while positive emotions and self-efficacy were significantly increased. There was no significant influence on appearance interest, body satisfaction, self-esteem, and self-efficacy. In group comparison, significant changes were observed in depression, positive emotion and negative emotion regardless of groups. However, cancer patients indicated a significant improvement in self-efficacy compared to general patients who did not whereas patients with a high level of depression showed a significant enhancement on body satisfaction compared to patients with a low level of depression. Also, patients with a low level of pain indicated a significant improvement on self-esteem and self-efficacy compared to patients with a high level of pain. Perceived effect and satisfaction of the fashion therapy were relatively high. Study results may positively contribute to building a knowledge and experimental base of fashion therapy that is widely applicable to diverse parties for the future.
The effect of fashion brand extension types, preannouncing and regulatory focus on preferences toward extension product
Huh, You Jin ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 102~116
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.102
This study aimed to identify the effects of fashion brand extensions types, preannouncing and consumers' regulatory focus on preference towards extension products. To that end, the study used a 2 (fashion brand extension types: similar vs. non-similar)
(preannouncing: near preannouncing vs. far preannouncing)
(regulatory focus: promotion focus vs. prevention focus) three mixed elements. The subjects of the study were 280 men and women in their 20~40s living in Seoul and Chungnam province and total of 229 data were analyzed. Data were analysed with SPSS 19.0 program and three-way ANOVA, simple interaction effects and simple main effects analysis were conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First there were significant differences in preference based on fashion brand extension types and preannouncing. Second, there were significant interaction effects in preference between extension types of fashion brand and regulatory focus. But there was no difference in preference toward extension products according to types of preannouncing and regulatory focus. Lastly, fashion brand extension types, preannouncing and regulatory focus showed significant interaction effects on preference. Thus even in cases of non-similar brand extensions which carry more risk of failing, the appropriate marketing communication strategies such as preannouncing will result in brand preference. Also marketing activities should be comprehensive and strategical based on consumers' tendencies in order to derive positive evaluations.
Body compensation image on power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket according to the shoulder height and width
Lee, Si-Baek ; Suh, Mi-A ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 117~125
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.117
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.
The development of cultural products and textile designs with the patterns of Jeju Bangstop
Oh, Jeongsoon ; Hong, Heesook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 126~144
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.126
The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.
A study on the deconstruction shown in the 21st century fashion decentering phenomenon - Focused on visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing -
Chung, Sehui ; Kim, Yonson ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 1, 2015, Pages 145~160
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.1.145
The purpose of this study is to review the concept and thinking structure of deconstruction theoretically and thereupon, analyze the visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing and further, discuss the aesthetic characteristics and values of the decentering phenomenon in the 21st century fashion. Deconstruction provides for an cognitive framework whereby we could comprehensively review the difficult-to-understand and imprudent creativity unravelling in the name of the post-modernism as well as the ambiguous visual beauty and wearable comfort of our contemporary fashion. In particular, deconstruction refuses such concepts involving the relationship between the conventional clothing and its components as order, symmetry, balance, harmony, perfection and simplicity and instead, attaches some sense of value to such relatively inferior concepts as disorder, asymmetry, unbalance, disharmony, imperfection and complexity, and thus, reflects them in the modes of aesthetic representations to create new aesthetics and expand the expressive potential.