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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 23, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 23, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 23, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 23, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 23, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 23, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
A study on expression methods for structural aesthetics in modern fashion design - Focus on the architectural characteristics of Santiago Calatrava -
Lee, Yeonji ; Um, Sohee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 737~754
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.737
The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.
Study on the body shapes of old aged obese women for the activation of the silver clothing industry
Seong, Ok jin ; Kim, Sook jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 755~767
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.755
This study analyzed the body-type characteristics of 340 old-aged obese women that had been on the rise as a part of efforts to activate the silver clothing industry. The subjects were in the age range of 60-79 and met some obesity requirements, including a Rohrer Index of 1.6 or higher, a BMI of 25 or higher, and a WHR of 0.85 or higher. Old-aged obese women showed increased thickness of the torso with age, which suggests that they revealed the characteristics of regardless of gender. In other words, they became bigger in the waist and abdomen, shorter in height, slimmer in the lower body, and thicker in the torso. There are three types of obesity: Type 1 is lower-body obesity with a higher degree of obesity in the abdomen than the upper body. Type 2 is abdominal obesity with a higher degree of obesity in the upper body than in the lower body. Type 3 is whole-body obesity with balanced obesity of the whole body. As for changes to the types of obesity according to age, those who are in their sixties usually fall into the categories of upper-body and whole-body obesity, and those who are in their seventies are much more concentrated in the categories of abdominal obesity and upper-body obesity with a decreased percentage of whole-body obesity. It is apparent that the percentage of abdominal and upper-body obesity rises with age due to fat accumulation in the abdomen.
Natural dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum
Kim, Sangyool ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 768~777
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.768
In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of
, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.
The development of jacket patterns for baby-boomer generation women according to silhouette
Choi, Chang Sook ; Kim, Ji Hyeon ; Kim, Hyo Sook ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 778~792
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.778
The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.
Moderating effect of music characteristics on the relationship between consumer mood and attitude in the online shopping mall
Choi, Soojin ; Yoh, Eunah ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 793~806
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.793
This study is to explore the effect of music characteristics (i.e., likeliness and familiarity of music) on the relationship between mood and attitude toward the product in the online shopping mall selling hand-made shoes. A total of 319 consumers participated in experiments with online shopping mall stimuli with a variety of background music. In results, consumer mood positively affected attitude toward the hand-made shoe products in the online shopping mall under background music. A moderating effect of music likeliness was found in the relationship between mood and product attitude, indicating that mood more strongly affected product attitude under more liked music than under less liked music. When consumers are listening to more liked music and are in good mood, they may build their attitudes toward products independently from their mood, whereas they may build positive attitude under good mood versus negative attitudes under bad mood if they are listening to less liked music. A moderating effect of music familiarity was not found in the relationship between mood and product attitude. Based on results, it was confirmed that the S-O-R model could be applied to explain the effect of background music on consumer responses in online shopping malls. Marketers may be able to select and adjust the likeliness and familiarity of background music to better serve consumers in diverse shopping conditions, referring to the study findings.
Development of cultural product design based on Chochungdo by Shin Saimdang - Through the color expression of pop art -
Song, Jaemin ; Choi, Jongmyoung ; Kim, Jiyoung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 807~821
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.807
The purpose of this study is to develop a design as a high value-added exportable industrial product by developing a cultural product, that can be accepted as having universal beauty by people in the Western cultural area. This is done by, re-analyzing it from a modern perspective after applying the color representation, used in pop art, to Shin Saimdang`s Chochungdo (草蟲圖, insects on flowers) which clearly expresses Korea`s national emotion and aesthetic consciousness. The research method depends upon developing cultural products such as scarfs, neckties, handkerchiefs, and folding fans, which are communicated in the global market The expressive technique of pop art is utilized after reconstructing the color sensation of pop art in the aesthetic dimension of the natural, physical, and formative beauty of Chochungdo based on the whole understanding of our country`s genre of Chochungdo and Western pop art. With regard to the colors in the developed design, the basic colors were extracted and applied by selecting 10 pieces in the flower series, which were made with the silkscreen printmaking technique in the 1970s by Andy Warhol, a master in pop art. A work that integrates pop art, a global art trend, with Korean traditional culture is expected to highlight Korean traditional culture in the global cultural era.
The characteristics of types and annual trends of pop-up fashion stores - Focused on domestic cases -
Yu, Jihun ; Choi, Doree ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 822~834
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.822
Contemporary fashion companies have been planning marketing strategies that can promote brands and products more effectively for satisfying consumers` increasingly diversified needs. For this reason, retail spaces have continued to evolve and the modern concept of pop-up stores appeared through this process. Therefore, the object of this study was to research domestic pop-up fashion store cases by collecting article data. These data are from Internet fashion-specialty sites and analyze the types and characteristics of pop-up fashion stores by providing basic information that will be useful in the pop-up fashion stores of companies when they establish their marketing strategies. This study utilized the content analysis method and derived the results by using SPSS Statistics. As a result of this study, the type of "pop-up fashion stores opening in distribution enterprises" comprised the highest percentage of the whole store types and the pop-up fashion stores` management purposes were focused on product introduction, promotion, and market testing. As time passed, not only did pop-up fashion stores` growth rate increased, but also the types of pop-up fashion stores have become more diverse. In other words, contemporary fashion companies are utilizing more pop-up fashion stores as a marketing strategy than before. However, due to the short history of domestic pop-up fashion stores, the variety of research is still insufficient, so more extensive research on pop-up fashion stores is required.
Patternmaking of slim-fit jacket sloper for men in their 30`s according to numbers of jacket buttons Part 1 - Focusing on ease -
Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Kim, Kyung-A ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 835~845
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.835
This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30`s. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.
Regret after purchasing fashion goods - Need for cognition and fashion leadership as antecedents and dissatisfaction, regret solving process and re-buying intention as consequences -
Cho, Nam Hae ; Park, Soo Kyeong ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 846~860
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.846
The purposes of this study were to investigate the influences of need for cognition (NFC) and fashion leadership on regret after purchasing fashion goods in female consumers and examine the relationships between regret and its dependent variables (i.e., dissatisfaction, regret resolution, and rebuying intentions). Data collection was conducted through a survey for females in their 20s~40s, and 642 questionnaires were used for final data analyses in which frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression were applied using SPSS 14.0. The results were as follows. The higher NFC was or the lower fashion leadership was, the higher the degree of regret, as NFC and fashion leadership both had a significant influence on regret. In terms of the dependent variables, the higher the degree of regret, the higher the degree of dissatisfaction and ultimately the lower the rebuying intentions. In addition, the influence of regret on regret resolution and the influence of regret resolution on rebuying intentions were significant. This study verified that consumers` characteristics and feelings of regret had a significant influence on their buying behavior of fashion goods. The results suggest that consumers` feelings of regret (which influence consumer satisfaction and rebuying intentions) should be considered in terms of competitive marketing strategies at fashion companies.
Issey Miyake fashion`s fold characteristics through fold architecture
Seo, Meehee ; Yoon, Jung-A ; Lee, Younhee ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 861~875
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.861
This study examines the formative characteristics of Fold architecture and how its properties are shown in the fashion of the modern work of Issey Miyake through analysis. In this research, the Fold classification criteria for analysis features that appeared in Issey Miyake fashion features were established through research literature on Fold architecture and leading research. Empirical data collection was conducted for Issey Miyake`s work and collection by collecting photo materials, and design concepts and the results are analyzed in terms of features. Study ranges of Issey Miyake`s creative design development are Pleats Please, A-POC, 132.5 project, and collections from 2000 to 2014. The conclusion is as follows. First, design concepts presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features of Fold are Hybrid, topology, and uncertainty. Hybrid look for the meaning of fashion, which is the interaction between the wearer and garments. The concept of topology designs clothing, focusing on interrelationship of the body and clothing, and pays no attention to absolute size or the form of the clothing. The concept of uncertainty is an uncertain form that is infinitely expandable because all the elements have openness and uncertainty due to the determined incomplete state by the creator. Second, in the results presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features is the destruction of the boundary and diagram form. The destruction of the boundary is free from traditional clothing. The diagram form is a geometric form which does not create a Dart or Princess line.
The influences of boredom proneness, public self-consciousness, and dressing style on internet shopping
Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 876~893
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.876
The purpose of this study is to identify the influences of psychological variables and fashion-related psychological variables on purchasing fashion items on the Internet. Boredom proneness and public self-consciousness were selected as psychological variables, and dressing style was selected as a fashion-related psychological variable. It was hypothesized that boredom proneness and public self-consciousness not only influence the purchasing frequency of fashion items on the Internet directly, but also indirectly through dressing style. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul using convenience sampling. Two hundred and eighty-six questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for hypothesized relationship testing. The factor analysis of boredom proneness revealed five dimensions, "helplessness," "affective response," "lack of internal stimulation," "lack of external stimulation," and "perception of time." The factor analysis of public self-consciousness revealed two dimensions, "appearance-consciousness" and "style-consciousness," and the factor analysis of dressing style revealed one dimension. The overall fit of the hypothesized model suggests that the model fits the data well. The hypothesized relationship test proved that boredom proneness and public self-consciousness influence the purchasing frequency of fashion items on the Internet indirectly through dressing style. The results implicate effective strategies for Internet shopping malls and suggestions for future study.
Classification of foot shapes of young and middle-aged/elderly men
Lim, Ho Sun ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 894~905
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.894
The present study analyzed data from the 3D measurement of the feet of men aged over 20 years residing in the capital region as part of the 6th Anthropometry of Size Korea. To analyze the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men aged 20~39 years and middle-aged/elderly men aged 40~69 years by age and by type, a cluster analysis was conducted using the factors derived through the factor analysis as independent variables. The results of the study that analyzed the characteristics of foot shapes by type according to differences in age were as follows. First, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men by type, five factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into three types: Type 1 (short and flat), Type 2 (thick), and Type 3 (long and wide). Second, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of middle-aged/elderly men by type, six factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into four types: Type 1 (short and regular), Type 2 (flat), Type 3 (thick), and Type 4 (long and regular). The results of the present study are expected to serve as basic data for the design of shoes by age and foot type.
The effects of consumers` sense of community regarding outdoor brand on behavioral commitment, purchasing satisfaction, and repurchasing intention
Jang, Eun-Jeong ; Ann, In-Sook ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 906~921
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.906
This study analyzed the effects of consumers`sense of community regarding outdoor brands on behavioral commitment, purchasing satisfaction, and repurchasing intention and analyzed the effects of behavioral commitment and purchasing satisfaction on repurchasing intention. Additionally, this study analyzed the differences in sense of community, behavioral commitment, purchasing satisfaction, and repurchasing intention according to the types of outdoor consumers`consumption values. A survey was conducted from July 20th to 30th, 2015, and 527 responses were used for the analysis. The results of this study are as follows. First, consumers`sense of community regarding outdoor brands was classified into mutual influences, sufficiency necessity, emotional connectedness, and sense of belonging. Second, outdoor consumers`sense of community had positive impacts on behavioral commitment, purchasing satisfaction and repurchasing intention. Third, outdoor consumers`behavioral commitment and purchasing satisfaction had positive impacts on repurchasing intention. Fourth, there were differences in the outdoor consumers`sense of community, behavioral commitment, purchasing satisfaction, and repurchasing intention according to the types of consumption values. Therefore, outdoor brands can strengthen the relationship with customers considering values and behavior, suggesting the need for a strategy that promotes consumers`sense of community with sustainable management activities that save the environment and local community.
Checks, grids and tartans
Wang, Chaoran ; Hann, Michael Andrew ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 5, 2015, Pages 922~927
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.922
Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be `balanced` or `regular`, with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.