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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 23, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 23, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 23, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 23, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 23, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 23, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design - Focused on the typology of ZWPM -
Yoon, Jinyoung ; Yim, Eunhyuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 929~939
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.929
Zero-waste is sustainable development for ensuring continuous interactions with the environment as well as for the next generations, while expanding across industries. Zero-waste fashion design does not necessarily mean that we should stop making clothes in order to reduce waste, but we consider the social values of sustainability regarding the environment, humans, and profit. In particular, in the pre-use stage of zero-waste fashion design, fashion designers play critical roles. The purpose of this study is to develop a methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design through establishing the typology of zero-waste pattern making (ZWPM) as well as exploring the practical implications of zero-waste fashion design. For the realization of zero-waste fashion design that draws from pattern-making principals, this study categorizes zero-waste fashion design into zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) and non-pattern cutting (NPC). ZWPC is based on drafting patterns on a piece of fabric, which can enable the sharing of patterns and processes, while NPC requires little- or non-cutting/sewing in optimizing a piece of fabric, bringing the possibility of creating indefinite forms. ZWPC is sub-categorized into tailored and non-tailored, and NCP into draped and folded. Then, by implementing the typology in undergraduate design programs, this study tests and completes the design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design.
Repurchase intention toward fast fashion brands - Product characteristics, consumer characteristic, and cognitive dissonance -
Jeon, Kyung Sook ; Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 940~954
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.940
The purpose of this study is to identify the antecedents of repurchase intention toward fast fashion brands. Perceived quality, perceived price, deindividuation, and overly trendy styles, which are product characteristic variables, and fashion innovativeness, which is a consumer characteristic variable, were considered as antecedents. It was hypothesized that product and consumer characteristics influence repurchase intention toward fast fashion brands not only directly, but also indirectly through cognitive dissonance. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul using convenience sampling. Three hundred and fifty-two questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. The factor analysis of product characteristics revealed four dimensions: "perceived quality", "perceived price", "deindividuation", and "overly trendy styles", and the factor analysis of consumer characteristics revealed one dimension. The factor analysis of cognitive dissonance revealed two dimensions, "regrets" and "perceived uncertainty." The hypothesized path test proved that perceived quality, deindividuation, overly trendy styles, and fashion innovativeness influence repurchase intention directly. Perceived price and deindividuation influence repurchase intention indirectly through the factor of cognitive dissonance, which is the perceived uncertainty, indicating the importance of cognitive dissonance. The results indicate effective marketing strategies should be used to decrease consumers` cognitive dissonance, and suggestions for future study are provided.
Design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era in contemporary women`s fashion
Zhu, Jiayi ; Ha, Seung Yeon ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 955~971
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.955
The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.
Clothing adaptation and clothing consumption behavior according to acculturation in married Chinese immigrant women
Son, Jin Ah ; Kim, Soon Young ; Choo, Ho Jung ; Nam, Yun Ja ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 972~986
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.972
This study seeks to explore the relationship between clothing adaptation and acculturation for married Chinese immigrant women. In addition, it aims to analyze the differences in their clothing consumption behaviors according to acculturation level. To achieve these purposes, a quantitative research study was conducted on 291 wives of Korean-Chinese multicultural families in Seoul and Gyeonggi. The data was analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and the Duncun test. The findings were as follows. First, the women were divided into three groups based on their level of acculturation, which was defined as `assimilated`, `marginalized` and `segregated`. Second, the relationship between their acculturation level and their clothing adaptation was identified. The marginalized group had the lowest level of clothing adaptation. Third, the groups` differences in clothing selection criteria were analyzed. The segregated group considered the practical aspects (price, color, quality) of clothing to be more important than the other groups. The marginalized group scored the lowest in valuing the aesthetic factors (design, style, trendiness) of clothing. Finally, conformity of clothing consumption varied significantly based on acculturation level. The assimilated and marginalized groups showed higher levels conformity than did the segregated group. Clothing purchase location also varied significantly between the three groups. The assimilated and marginalized groups preferred online shopping, but members of the segregated group preferred to carry out their shopping off-line. This study showed that clothing adaptation and clothing consumption behaviors play key roles in understanding the acculturation of multicultural families.
Analysis of the preppy look design as shown in the domestic men`s wear collection
Kim, Ji Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 987~1003
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.987
The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men`s fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men`s collection. In the men`s collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com`s web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were `traditional preppy` faithful to tradition, `sophisticated preppy` with refined semi-formal look, `sportive preppy` with active sports sense, and `natural preppy` with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.
Empirical study on the influence of emotional leadership on business performance in the fashion industry - Focused on the moderating effects of organizational culture -
Kim, Sook-Hee ; Yang, Dong-Woo ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1004~1020
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1004
The purpose of this study is to assess whether the emotional leadership of the CEO of a fashion company has a significant influence on corporate performance. In this study, a survey was conducten on employees of fashion companies from August 1 to 30, 2015, and 350 copies of questionnaires were collected and used for analysis. Factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis were employed to analyze the data using SPSS software (ver. 21.0). According to the study results, if a fashion company CEO has higher emotional leadership, it leads to an increase in the job satisfaction and performance of the staff members, and an improvement in new product performance thanks to more investment and development and an expanded R&D staff. Additionally, the higher emotional leadership of the CEO contributes to an increase in operating profits, sales, and market share. Therefore, the importance of organizational culture was confirmed by its regulation effect on the emotional leadership and management performance of a fashion company. According to the results of this study, the emotional leadership of a CEO plays an important role in improving the performance of a fashion company, and future studies are needed to identify how to enhance the corporate performance of a fashion company from various perspectives.
The impact of the sense of self-efficacy on job satisfaction and organizational commitment of technical designers
Kim, Young Tae ; Hwang, Choon-Sup ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1021~1037
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1021
This study analyzed the impact of sense of self-efficacy on job satisfaction and organizational commitment among technical designers in order to acquire information needed for human resources management in the field of technical design. The study was implemented through a normative-descriptive survey method using a questionnaire. The sample consisted of 217 technical designers working at vendors and agents located in Seoul. The results revealed that there were significant differences in the sense of self-efficacy levels among technical designers according to age and work experience. Personal self-efficacy had a positive influence on both intrinsic and extrinsic job satisfaction, but also on affective, continuance, and normative organizational commitment. In addition, personal self-efficacy had a greater influence on extrinsic job satisfaction than social self-efficacy. Both personal and social self-efficacy influenced continuance commitment while there was no relationship between social self-efficacy and affective organizational commitment. However, a clear relationship was found between both social and personal self-efficacy and normative organizational commitment. Nevertheless, social self-efficacy had a greater influence on normative organizational commitment than personal self-efficacy. This fact demonstrates the need to exert more effort to promote the sense of personal self-efficacy of technical designers. These results could be used to provide appropriate proposals for human resources management in the field of technical design.
Representation of women in visual representation system of fashion photography structuralized by male gaze
Lee, Younghee ; Yim, Eunhyuk ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1038~1050
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1038
This study is a theoretical research to investigate a methodological framework for analyzing the representation of women in fashion photography. For this study, this article attempts to develop a conceptual framework of the visual representation system through Lacan`s gaze theory, and analyze the representational aspects of women configured by gendered characteristics in the visual representation system. Structuralizing the visual representation system based on that theory, the gaze, the image/screen, and the subject of representation in the Lacan`s triangle diagram are replaced by the camera as the signifier of gaze, the representational image, and the seeing subject respectively. In the visual representation system, the camera creates a male-oriented visual field and structures a relationship of gendered power between male gaze as the seeing subject and female eye as an object to be seen. Looking into the representational aspects of women in this visual representation system structuralized by male gaze, women are represented in a way that reflects male desire through masquerade to comply with the patriarchal gaze, or differences that emphasizes the uniqueness and autonomy of women released from a patriarchal discourse. This study would be significant in that it provides theoretical basis for an analytic approach to the representation of women in fashion photography which we accept as a fixed one through the ideology of naturalization.
African women`s hairstyles as communication media - A comparison between young and old women`s hairstyles -
Lorraine, Kindavyi ; Suk, Kwon Young ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1051~1060
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1051
The purpose of this study is to examine the different communication messages behind African women`s hairstyles, and to compare young and old African women`s hairstyles. The contents of this research are: the hairstyle as communication media, the types of African women`s hairstyles, and the difference between young and old women`s hairstyles. We used a review of literature and an empirical study as the research methods for this study. For the literature review, we used papers on African hairstyles, and we linked hairstyles to corresponding communication. For the empirical study, we took a database of 240 pictures (120 pictures of young women and 120 pictures of old women) from websites related to African hairstyles and we analyzed the pictures to differentiate between young and old African women`s hairstyles. The results of this study reveal that African women`s hairstyles express messages of power, ceremony, and status and identification communication. Within the 240 pictures, we found out which hairstyles are preferred by young and old women. Young African women prefer long, straight hairstyles and artificial hair (wigs), while old women keep short, natural hairstyles. The result of this research will be useful for understanding African women`s hairstyles as well as contribute to the field of hair design.
Factors influencing life satisfaction among college students - Social psychological variables and shopping confidence for clothing and accessories -
Park, Hye-Jung ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1061~1081
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1061
Recently, there has been an increase in wellbeing marketing, which focuses on increasing consumer life satisfaction or consumers` sense of subjective wellbeing. Numerous studies have been conducted to identify which aspects contribute to consumer life satisfaction. In order to provide additional insights into consumer life satisfaction, this study aimed to identify the relationships among social psychological variables (consciousness of social face, social interaction anxiety, and career anxiety), shopping confidence, and life satisfaction. Shopping confidence in this study relates to confidence for clothing/accessories. It was hypothesized that social psychological variables influence life satisfaction not only directly but also indirectly through shopping confidence. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Two hundred eighty six questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. Factor analysis of consciousness of social face revealed two factors, `desire to gain face` and `fear of losing face`. Factor analysis of social interaction anxiety, shopping confidence, and life satisfaction revealed that these variables were uni-dimensional. Test of the hypothesized path showed that all social psychological variables influenced life satisfaction indirectly through shopping confidence, whereas `fear of losing face` of consciousness of social face and career anxiety influenced life satisfaction directly. The results give marketers some understanding of their consumers` life satisfaction in relation to consciousness of social face, social interaction anxiety, career anxiety, and shopping confidence.
Study on the laundry behavior according to the number of household and the type of washer
Kim, Tae-mi ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1082~1096
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1082
The purpose of this study was to examine laundry behavior according to the number of households and the type of washing machine that each household used. The data was obtained from questionnaires filled out by 417 households, which included college students living in Seoul and Gyeonggi province. The results of this study are as follows: first, according to the results of survey about the number of household members and type of washing machine that household had, one or two-person households accounted for 24.0%. Regarding the type of washing machine that each household used, there were more drum washers. In households comprised of three or more persons, a higher percentage had a machine with a pulsator. Second, with regard to the method of classifying the wash in doing the laundry, all families classified the wash according to color and textile material. Third, with regard to the amount of detergent in doing the laundry, 63.5% of households used the recommended amount of detergent while 28.3% of households used more detergent than the recommended amount. Fourth, with regard to the set temperature of water in doing the laundry, 36.2% of households used cold water; this was the highest percentage. Fifth, with regard to input sequence in doing the laundry, most households put the wash in the machine in advance, and then filled the washer with water; 56.1% of households added a rinsing process for all washing processes.
A study on smart fashion product development trends
Suh, Sung-Eun ; Roh, Jung-Sim ;
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 23, issue 6, 2015, Pages 1097~1115
DOI : 10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.1097
ICT in the IOT era is the core basis of modern society. This study investigated and analyzed the recent commercialization trends of smart fashion products internationally and domestically, to utilize them as the basis of data for developing user-friendly smart fashion products that can meet the needs of consumers. Keyword research using the most representative search engines, Google and Naver was conducted for searching for various wearable items commercialized actively since 2010. The final 78 products were classified by the physical area, and the key features and benefits were analyzed. Smart fashion products were classified as four physical types for the head and face, torso, arms and hands, and ankles and feet. Smart fashion products for each body part were developed in various ways, such as hats, glasses, lenses, virtual screens, earphones, headsets, clothing, watches, wrist bands, gloves, rings, wallets, bags, anklets, shoes, socks, and insoles. The main features were music playback, bluetooth, a camera based on NFC, virtual effects, health and safety protection through measuring heartbeat and momentum, and social network sharing of all kinds of information, based on inter-working with a smartphone. These functions represent the physical, social, and emotional interactions among users and their surroundings, as well as the users, themselves. The research results are expected to be used in future studies on planning user-friendly and marketable products through in-depth analysis of the design characteristics of smart fashion products as well as consumer responses.