Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 3, Issue 2 - Dec 1995
Volume 3, Issue 1 - Jun 1995
Selecting the target year
A Comparative Linguistic Study on Kokal
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 193~199
The purpose of this research was to study the origins and the meanings of the Kokal (고깔). Comparative linguistic analytical approaches were employed to trace the development of the word, the Kokal(고깔). Results of this study revealed that the kotkal(곳갈, 곧갈) was a general term referring to a variety of head coverings in eh period of Choson Dynasty. This broad meanings of the Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) of the Chosun Dynasty period has been changed to a narrow sense meanings a conical cap made of folds of the material, mainly used by some of the Buddhist monks in modern Korean. Also, the phonetic value of the Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) of the Choson Dynasty period changed to the Kokal(고깔) in modern Korean. A variety of words for the Kokal(고깔) was found in the different languages such as Latin, English, French, Turkish, German, Mongolian, and Chinese. The examination and analysis of this study indicated that the origin of the Korean word Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) or Kokal(고깔) and the meanings of it were derived from LL. Cuculla(monk's cowl)
A Study on Sokol(蘇骨) and Kolso(骨蘇)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 201~214
The purpose of this study was to identify the key features of Sokol(蘇骨) and Kolso(骨蘇) and to determined the relation between sokol and kolso. A Comparative linguistical method was used for the analysis of this resarch. Also, sokol(蘇骨) and julpoong(折風) were examined to determine the relationship between the sokol and the julpoong. Results of this study indicated that the sokol and the kolso were identical head covering used by the nobility of Koguryo. The characteristics features of the sokol and kolso were that these tow head coverings wee made of purple ra(羅) and were decorated with gold and silver. The investigation found that the sokol and the kolso were not of Koguryo's native words. These words were derived from this neighboring words. The sokol and kolso were transliterations of neighboring words. The sokol and julpoong were different head coverings: The sokol was for the nobility while the julpoong was for a man of lowly position.
A Study on Women′s Dress of Song Dynasty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 215~240
Costumes of Song Dynasty developed after the patterns of the Tang. The rise of idealist philosophy in the Song Dynasty had a great impact on the life of the people, Under the influence of this ideology, people's views on aesthetics changed considerable. In architecture, for example, white washed walls and black tiles came into fashion. balustrades, pillars and roof beams were left unpainted so as to retain the true colour of he wood. In painting, also, simplicity and delicacy were valued, and the preferred medium was ink or light colours. The desire for simplicity was even more evidently reflected in clothing and related adornment, as public opinion was against excessive display in dress. Consequently, the clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Compared with the dress of Tang, the dress of the Song Dynasty had other variations. Therefore women's dress of Song was also reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, simplicity and naturaliness.
A Study on the Traditional Costumes and Tattoo of the Maori
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 241~260
The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.
A Study on the Parallelism between the Art Trend and the Fashion -Focusing on Modernism and the Flapper Look
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 261~275
This paper analyzes the parallelism between the art trend and the fashion. As a representative case, we consider the Modernism and the Flapper look. The Modernism rejected the tradition of the past and pursued something new. This trend was in parallel with the fashion called flapper look which was against the tradition and made drastic change. The factors which represent the spirit of the age the Modernism are the simplicity, the rejection of the tradition, the individualism and the subjectivity, the functionalism, the fragmentation of the self, and the straight line. We discuss the fashion style of the flapper look in terms of these factors.
A Study on the Dualism Appearing in the Modern Unisex Mode
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 277~291
The purpose of this study is to consider the internal meaning and the external from of Dualism in Unisex Mode : to investigate the dualistic expression appeared on the Unisex Mode by analyzing the general fashion magazine. The results of the study were as follows : First, the phenomenon of Dualism in Unisex Mode may be clues indication that some roles, once assigned exclusively to either males or females, are becoming mutually shared, or what may be called human roles. Second, the expression of Dualism in Unisex Mode whether direct away of symbolic way is represented by metaphoric manner such as unisex look(mono sex look, or trans sex look) with spirit of the time’s. Third, the formality and contents that related dualistic mode shows a various method in style, coordination of texture or item.
An Analysis of the Body Measurement for Children′s Clothing Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 293~306
The purpose of this study is to analysis children's measurement and to provide the fundamental information for he clothing design which can reflect the characteristic of their bodies. An anthropometric database used for this study was the 1992 national anthropomatric survey of Koreans. The results obtained are as follows; (1) Children showed the significant difference of their growth in accordance with the increase of their ages. There were also the difference between body and girls. Height, length of items grew most promthy. For example; boys from 10 to 11 and girls from 10 to 11 again their height mostly. (2) In character of body proportion, significant difference were found in accordance with their ages and sex. However, in the items of height, length noticeable changes of proportion could not be found because there were hardly any actual difference of size means while girth items appeared differently. (3) There were significant factors from the result of factor analysis of body dimension. The fist factor ; grith, depth, breath. The second factor ; height, length. (4) We can class three groups with the results of cluster analysis of body dimension.
A Study on the Apparel Sizing for Children′s Upper Garment
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 307~321
The purpose of this study is to make the size chart of the child's ready-made upper garnet. For his study, we used the 1992 national anthropometric database. The results obtained are as follows. (1) It is known that the bust girth-based size chart is better than the age-based one. (2) The size range of the bust girth was 55∼73 cm to the size of the child's upper garment, and the number of the size was 7. Then the cover-rate was 86%. (3) In this study, the unisex chart was newly made because it was hardly difficult to find the actual size difference between boys and girls.
A Study on the Clothing Purchasing Behavior of Elderly Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 323~346
The increasing number of senior citizens, combined with the power of purchasing due to discretionary income have vaulted the elderly into the position of an attractive future target market. Therefore, it would be crucial for marketers to understand elderly's purchasing behavior. The purpose of this study was to identify clothing purchasing behavior of elderly women. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 600 women over 55 years of age. However, the sample that was analyzed fer statistical analysis was involved 418 elderly women. Statistical analysis were majorly descriptives such as frequencies and percentages. The major results of this study were summarized as follows. 1. In relation to problem recognition in purchasing process, motives of purchasing apparel were identified as a happy event in home such as a wedding and a birthday, a change of seasons and a casual discovery of a suitable clothing in shopping, in orders. 2. In relation to information search, important information on apparel and fashionability were thought as display racks in a store, opinion from friends and family and fashionability from others or streets, in orders. 3. In relation to selecting a store in purchasing process, older consumers assessed that attractive price, design suited to my age, variety in one store and apparel product quality were important store attributes, in orders. In terms of a purchase place, older consumers purchased clothing mainly on department stores, wholesale stores such as Namdaemoon or Dongdaemoon market, mainly retail stores located close to home and discount stores of well known brand, in orders. 4. In relation to alternative evaluation in purchasing process, older consumeres considered that style or appearance suited to me, color, design, comfort and fitness were important selection criteria, in orders. 5. In relation to purchase choice, 61.7% of the respondents paid money by themselves and 68.9% paid on cash in purchasing apparel. 6. In relation to outcomes of purchase, older consumers solved their complaint against a unsatisfactory product mainly by returning the unsatisfactory clothing. Also, there were those who took no action against the unsatisfactory product and who altered the clothing for fitness by themselves.
A Study on he Clothing Behaviors of the Aged Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 347~370
The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social, economical influence of the elderly population has been increasing, too. Research regarding elderly people is important because many elderly people take care of their appearance and clothing, and clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. This study investigated the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, and clothing behavior of women aged 55 years and older who were residents of Seoul. The results of this study are as followings: 1. The importance of various factors on clothing behavior is different. They are management, clothing importance, fashion indifference, information search and purchase planning, clothing dependence, status symbol, and conformity in order of the importance. 2. Age has a positive relationship with each of fashion indifference and clothing dependence, but a negative relationship with information search and purchase planning. 3. Age has a positive relationship with each of life satisfaction and allowance. 4. Appearance satisfaction is positively related with age, but is significantly related with neither allowance nor education. 5. There are positive relationships between life satisfaction and all clothing behavior factors except status symbol. 6. Appearance satisfaction are siginicantly correlated with management, conformity, clothing dependence, and clothing importance. And life satisfaction has more significant relationship with clothing behavior than appearance satisfaction does.
The Study on Value and Demographic Characteristics of Missy Who are New Consumer Group -about Women Aged Twenties and Thirties-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 371~391
This study is to infer consumer's value and demographics towards Missy, who are womens of new generation which represents new consumer group in fashion industry. The concrete purpose of the study is as follows : First : To find out the differences of value inference towards Missy depending on demographics of researched group. Second : To find out differences of value inference towards Missy depending on self-evaluation. Third : To find out differences of perception towards Missy's demographics between the groups of career women, housewives, students. Fouth : To find out differences of perception towards Missy's demographics depending on self-evaluation about Missy's of researched group. The researched group was 251 women aged between
living in Seoul and sample have been selected from various profession. Method of the study was by using questionnares which were based on results of pretest and preceding research. Analysis of the study was achieved by using SPSS package which are frequency, percentage,
-test, t-test and Anova, Duncan-test and the results are as follows: First : There are significant differences of value inference towards Missy between the groups who are perceived themselves Missy by self evaluation and the groups who are not. Third : There are significant differences of perception towards Missy's demographics between the groups of career women, housewives, students. Fourth : There are significant differences of perception in regards to Missy's demographics between perceived themselves Missy and the others who are not.
Fashion Lifestyle Segmentation of College Women′s Apparel Market: Informations Sources.Clothing Benefits Sought.Store Selection Criteria
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 393~408
The purpose of this study was to segment the female college apparel market based on fashion lifestyle and to develop a profile of each segment regard to fashion information sources, clothing benefits sought, and store selection criteria. The data were collected through questionnaire by random sample of 522 female college students. By cluster analysis of lifestyle factors, three groups were identified. (fashion leaders, fashion followers and fashion aversion), Three groups were then compared through multivariate analysis of variance on 11 fashion sources, 10 clothing benefits sought and 90 store selective criteria. Significant difference were found among the three groups on all these variables which indicate that fashion lifestyle can be a useful base for segmenting female apparel market and these groups are unique in terms of fashion information sources, clothing benefits sought and store selective criterias.
A Study on Effective Managing Method of Outlet(I) -Research about the Actual State and the Consumer′s Perception of Outlet-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 409~424
This study intends to investigate the actual state and problems of Outlet, and the research consumer's perception of Outlet. It affords a effective way to get rid of inventories for manufacture and to economize and rational buying for consumer. Ultimately trying to find a effective managing method of Outlet for both manufacturers and consumers. The result about research the actual sate of Outlet, there are affluent assortment, generous amount of merchandise and high discount rate in Kuro-dong Outlet stores, but stores' location is scattered that makes shopping environment inconvenient. It is not good condition of assortment, quantity and freshness of merchandise in Mungung-dong Outlet stores, but close proximity between stores and fancy shopping place make convenient shopping possible. Multi-discount stores dilute the fundumental of Qutlet with poor quantity and assortment of merchandise make man choices possible for consumer, but discount rate is lower for high management cost. The result about research the consumer's perception of Outlet shows that consumer have enough interest in Outlet, and intention to continue shopping in Outlet. Therefore we can expect continuous growth of Outlet. Also consumer is satisfied with price and quality of merchandise, but they are not satisfied with assortment of merchandise, expecially poorness in sizes.
Comparative Study on Fur Clothing Preferences of Korean and Russian Women - Focused on Seoul and Moscow Women -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 425~448
The purpose of this study was to compare fur clothing preferences of Korean and Russian women, and then to provide a beneficial data to Koran fur manufacturers who is working in Korea and advancing into Russia. 346 subjects were gather in Seoul and Moscow through convenience sampling method, and frequency, percentage, mean, x²-test, t-test were conducted for data analysis. The results were as follows: 1. Korean and Russian women's fur clothing buying motives, information sources, important factors on purchasing, purchasing, influences ere generally examined. 2. Russian women's fur clothing possession rate as well as fur clothing purchasing intention in the future were higher than Korean women's. 3. Fur clothing item, material, color, style, length which Korean and Russian women prefer were compared. 4. In case of shilhouette, Russia women showed high preference on swinger shilhouette, relatively Korean women preferred H-line. 5. In case of collar design, Russian women showed high preference on stand collar, relatively Korean women preferred notch collar or shawl collar. 6. In case of sleeve design, Russian women showed high preference on turn back cuffs sleeve, relatively Korean women preferred push-up sleeve.
The Relationship between Clothing Involvement and Brand Loyalty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 3, issue 2, 1995, Pages 449~459
The purpose of this study was to classify the dimension of clothing involvement, to identify the relationship between clothing involvement and brand loyalty by demographical characteristics. The results of the study were as follow. 1. General clothing involvement consisted of one dimension. 2. Clothing involvement is positively related to brand loyalty. The higher clothing involvement group had the higher brand loyalty. 3. There were is significant relationships among clothing involvement, brand loyalty and customer buying behavior such as expense and frequency of purchase. The expense and frequency of purchase were positively related to the higher clothing involvement group and the higher brand loyalty. 4. There were significant relationship between demographic characteristics and clothing involvement, between demographic characteristics and brand loyalty.