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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 4, Issue 3 - Dec 1996
Volume 4, Issue 2 - Oct 1996
Volume 4, Issue 1 - Jun 1996
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Dress in Nogultai(老乞大)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 1~14
The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.
A Study on the Prohibition of False Hair and a Primary Factor in Lee Dynasty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 15~28
This study is concerned with the prohibition of False Hair(加笙) and a primary factor in Lee Dynasty. Assuming that the trend of simplification in false hair is closely related to the idea of practical science to be the social and ideal background of those times, we researched. The results are as follows: Constant discussions and prohibitions against false hair were designed to differentiate between classes but to discard a variety. Goge(高笙) came to be a big problem during the reign of king Sung-Jong(成宗) and after on arguemt for the usage of false hair was in vogue king Young-Jo(英祖) and Jung-Jo(正祖). Finally, the wearing of Hooge(後笙) came to be a national regulation in manners and customs, and also brought the realization of prohibition against the usage of false hair. It is believed that the performance and the effect of the prohibition against the usage of false hair have a close relation with the idea of practical science.
An Interpretative Theory of Symbolic Meaning Described in Novels as Text and Its Application
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 29~41
A 'TEXT' is a basic unit of culture. It is also the whole of culture organization which is generalizing a culture. Literary texts which are reflection of the culture could be understood as historical discourse. This thesis which is based on the 'Semiotic theory', 'Victor Turner's Performance theory', and Sung Man Lee's 'Information Model', classified the type of meaning to explain how to communicate the meaning of thing which were described in novels, for examples, background, dress, dialogue, era, etc. An interpreter (reader) should understand the culture described in novels to clarify the ambiguous significance. An interpretative theory of symbolic meaning described in text was presented in this thesis, and it was applied to analysis Myung Hee Choi's novel, 'Honbul'.
A Study of Clothing Symbolism on Popular Music -Focused on the Periodic Symbol-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 43~56
The purpose of this study is analyzation of the clothing symbolism on the words of a popular music. The result shows that clothing symbolism on the popular music has a strong relationship with the periodic background. And also that represented the importance of the clothing as a symbol.
The Life Satisfaction, Appearance Satisfaction, Clothing Satisfaction, and Clothing Design Preferance of Women Aged 55years and Older in Seoul
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 57~74
The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social and economic influence of the elderly population has been also increasing. A elderly people become more interested in their appearance and clothing than before, clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. The objectives of the research are to explore the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, clothing satisfaction, and clothing design preference of 416 women aged 55 years and older were residents of Seoul. Data were gathered through survey using a self-administered questionnaire from November, 1994 to January, 1995 in 8 senior schools and 3 senior centers which were scattered in Seoul. Descriptive statistics, t-test, and factor analysis were used in analysing the data. The results of this study indicated that life satisfaction have a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The respondents were divided into tow groups by life satisfaction. The higher life satisfaction group preferred skits and formal wear to the lower. But, two groups did not show any significant differences in terms of the colo preference, motif preference, and fabric preference. The result of factor analysis divided appearance satisfaction into body satisfaction and face satisfaction. Body satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. And the group of lower physical satisfaction showed lower satisfaction in apparel fitness. Also the face satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The group of higher physical satisfaction preferred skirts and foraaml wear compared to that of lower physical satisfaction. The color preference and motif preference between two groups showed no significant difference. And the group of higher physical satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. Also, the group of higher ace satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. However, there was no significant difference in the color preference and motif preference between tow groups. The findings of this study amy contribute to knowledge about clothing satisfaction and preference of elderly women in Seoul since there have been few studies, and be useful to apparel manufacturers as well s clothing researchers. Also, research subjects of this study could be extended to aged men and various regions.
A Research Study on Work-Man's Uniform(1)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 75~91
The work-man's uniform should be coincident wit the image of his firm and accounted of the function according as its purpose. We made questions to 404 workers at 8 firm in our country through the questionnaire papers to know about a work-man's uniform and researched whether the satisfactory in wearing his uniform had relation with his type of business, grade, carrier, age, marriage, and monthly income. The results of this study is as follows; 1. In the uniform status of the fir, thee were many jumper styles in he design of the uniform. The color of that was more dark than bright and the materials of one was used much more chemical fiber than natural fiber. Each of the field office supplied the uniform to his work-man more frequently than the main office. All of firm payed off the uniform expense and decision of the uniform design was almost made both the firm and the labour union. 2. In he satisfaction of the uniform, the satisfaction of uniform was shown high in the design, color, materials, size and function. The highest dissatisfaction reason is as follows; it was disagreeable to concrete design in the design and dark color and keeping warm or draft was bad in the materials, the bust and pant's length was long in the size. 3. In preference of the uniform, the older of preference in the design was what the working environment and the image of firm was suitable, the characteristic uniform. The order of preference in the color was beige, blue, grey. The preference of in the materials was good to keep warm and draft. The preference in the pattern was 'no pattern' every type of business. The experts, or administrators and office workers than others preferred 'no pattern' of the uniform in the pattern.
A Research of Madeleine Vionnet's Work II
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 1, 1996, Pages 93~109
Madeleine Vionnet, a representative designer of the 1920′s, who made prefectly organized clothes with unique formativeness was the first to express fabric in a modern method and was called "The architect of fashion". This is because she developed a three dimensional design by expressing cloth-she rejected corset, should pad, etc-into elegant curved lines that do not stick to the body. By granting meaning to the beauty of the body and its movement in her own unique ways, she emphasized the formativeness in her work and gave shape to creative artistry. Expecially with the "Bias-Cut" she could express the lines of the body more flexibly and could make geometrical styles like the diamond shape dress or the triangle dress more effectively. Using the "Tired Bias cut" and "Handkerchief point" she let the skirt hemline dangle irregularly in geometrical forms, thus showing modern formative sense which forms a three dimensional solidness along the movement of the human body. Thus far, analyzed how the contemporary trend of art was reflected in her designs by studying her work; also investigated through her artistic characteristics and pattern method. Also be tried to find out what can be learned through her artistic view and superb formativeness as a designer.