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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 4, Issue 3 - Dec 1996
Volume 4, Issue 2 - Oct 1996
Volume 4, Issue 1 - Jun 1996
Selecting the target year
Clothing Culture and Korean Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 113~124
This research was designed to find out what is a distictive feature of the design elements of Korean women's costume and its influence by analizing the trend of Korean women's constume during the period of 1890 and 1995. The research was analized by a total of 854 random samples of clothing styles collected from materials in the museums and from articles of three leading newspapers and one of the best women's magazines in Korea. The changing trend of Korean women's costume was found out to be as follows: 1. In around 1910s, the trend of Korean women's costume has been changed into two-tier structure of both Korean and Western styles, and the typical and traditional Korean women's street wears such as 'Chang-ot' and 'Tsdechima' have been gradually diminished. 2. From 1920s, length of the Korean skirt, which was unnecessarily long and inconvenient, has been getting shorter for the convenience of walking. In addition, Korean women's underwear has become simplified, and sports wear could be seen for the first time in Korea. 3. During 1960s, the Western clothing styles have been increased rather than Korean styles as the street wear of the Korean women. 4. In 1970s, blue jeans, mini-skirts and casual wears have become a trend or fashion for women in Korea. 5. In 1980s, a fashion of unisex mode has arrived in this country, and from the year of 1987, wearing of panties among the Korean women has been increased rather than skirts wearing for the street wear. 6. During 1990s, various forma of complex styles came into being in such styles as so-called 'orange class style,' 'protruding navel T-shirts' and 'runner wear speedy.' From mid-1990s, Korean women have turned out to prefer the cute and light costumes by placing emphasis on the image of intellectual, professional and functional wears. The changing special feature of the Korean women's clothing designs could be distinctively observed during 1960s as the modernization policies in Korea have been processed during the period. The clothing trend before 1960 was to change and to solve problems of inconvenient and impractical wears, but the trend after 1960 was seen as a change to confirm a trend of the world fashion. From mid-1990s, however, preference of Korean women's self-conceited conception socially and an unquestionable changing pattern of Korean women's life.
College Women's Clothing Shopping Orientation and Market Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 125~143
The purposes of the study were (1) to segment the female college apparel market based on clothing shopping orientation and (2) to develop a profile of each segment regard to fashion life style, information sources, clothing selection criteria, the importance of store attributes and patronage behavior. The data were collected through questionaire by random sample of 526 female college students. By cluster analysis of shopping orientation factors, four groups were identified(apathetic apparel shopper, highly involved apparel shopper, economic apparel shopper, psycho-socializing apparel shopper). Four groups were then compared through multivariate analysis of variance and chi-square statistics on 3 fashion life style factors, 11 information sources, 10 clothing selection criterias, 9 store attributes and 1 patronage behavior variable. Significant difference were found among the four groups on all these variables which indicate that clothing shopping orientation can be a useful base for segmenting female apparel market and these groups are unique in terms of the above 5 variables.
Effects of Situational Variables and Consumer Characteristics on Apparel Buying Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 145~155
The purpose of this study was to investigate the casual relationships of situational variables and consumer characteristics on apparel buying behavior. data were collected via a questionnaire developed on the previous studies from 534 housewives living at Seoul and Pusan, and analyzed by Path analysis. Results indicated that consumers were affected directly by the buying situation and the usage situation, and indirectly by the communication situation and the consumer characteristics on apparel buying behavior. The buying situation was a variable that most affected consumers'apparel buying behavior. Apparel consumers showed the common situational effects on apparel buying behavior as did on consumer behavior of the other consumer goods. The casual relationships of apparel buying behavior were significantly different on the types of usage situations.
A Study on the Effect of Fashion Information Sources on Clothing Purchase Decision Process
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 157~171
The purpose of this study was to find out the effect of fashion information source in the stage of purchase decision-making and difference by stage of purchase decision-making and difference by stage of the effect extend, and to analyze the difference by fashion information source. For this study, the data were collected through the questionnaire distributed to 337 female students from five universities. The results are as follows: 1) There was significant difference among the effect to fashion information source according to the purchase decision-making stage. At the adoption stage, fashion information source have the most effect on clothing purchase. 2) The effect of Impersonal Source in the purchase decision-making stage was gradually decreased fro the initial (awareness, interest) sage to the late stage. 3) The effect of Personal Source in the purchase decision-making stage was gradually increased from the initial (awareness, interest) stage to the late stage. 4) Addition stage was highly influenced by friend and family that was Personal Independent Source than other fashion information source. However the final selection on clothing purchase was not influenced by friend and family. 5. There was significant difference among the effect of fashion information source according to the grade. Low garde students were highly influenced by Personal Source on clothing purchase, but high grade students were highly influenced by Impersonal Sources on clothing purchase. 6) There was significant difference among the effect of fashion information source according to the major. The students a majored clothing & textile-design were highly influenced by Impersional Source. These results suggest that fashion information source was significantly different according to purchase decision-making stage and was influenced by grade and major of subjects.
A Study on Clothing Buying Behavior by Clothing Involvement
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 173~185
The purpose of this study was to identify the relationship of clothing involvement and clothing buying behavior of women. A questionnaire was developed to measure clothing involvement, clothing purchasing motives, clothing purchasing criteria, fashion information sources, store selection criteria, and demographic characteristics. The questionnaire was administered to 430 female adults in Taegu. The data were analyzed using percentage, frequency, factor analysis, and t-test. The results of the study were s follows: 1. Subjects were divided into low clothing involved and high clothing involved groups. 2. Three dimensions of clothing purchasing motives were derived by factor analysis such as Aesthetic dependant, Impulsive, and Practical motive. Clothing purchasing criteria were factor analysed as Aesthetic, Qualitative, External, and Economical criterion. Fashion information sources were factor analysed as Printed & audio-visual oriented media, Marketer intensive search, Store search, Observation & Interpersonal search, and Experience. Store selection criteria were factor analyzed as Merchandise & Store atmosphere, Store convenience, and Brand & fashion. 3. There were significant differences between high involved and low involved consumers in clothing purchasing behavior. The high involved consumers showed more importance than low involved consumers about purchasing criteria expecially in aesthetic dependant. The high involved consumers put more importance to aesthetic, qualitative, and external criterion as clothing purchasing criteria. The high involved information sources. The high involved consumers were more concerned about merchandise & store atmosphere, and brand & fashion than low involved consumers in store selection criteria.
A Study on the Ancient Excavated Clothing in Xinjiang
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 187~206
The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.
A Study on Emperor s Costumes during the Reign of Chien-lung in Ching Dynasty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 207~217
The founding of ching costume system starts from the rule issued in second year of Te-chong reign that the clothing of Manchu people is prohibited to be chinesized. It has undergone many revisions and is officially established in the 37th year of Chien-lung reign. This study is Emperor's costumes during the year in Chien-lung reign. The results are as follows: Emperor's costumes go to the travel are Chi-fu hat and Hsing-fu. Sea-dragon hat changes on otter skin or beaver hat and Ching-rong and ching-ni hat changes velvet hat. Light green informal wear is to be worn once a year. Name of sacrificial robes does not exist in Ching-hui-dien-tu but it take the place of Chao-fu I and Chao-dai II in Chuan-dai-dang-an. Sacrificial robes wear with indigo boots and the other cases wear blue boots and shoes and socks. The shape on ornaments in belt of sacrificial robes is tetragon style.
A Study on Cinema Costumes of Edith Head s Work
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 219~245
Throughout her life time, Edith Head produced cinema costumes for over one thousand movies. She was the leading cinema costume designer in Hollywood. Since the Academy Awards added the area of costume design to be recognized [during 33 years of her work(1948∼1981)], she was nominated 35 times an awarded eight times. However, there were no significant studies done on her work or accomplishments although she was acknowledged as an ingenue and creative designer who elicited artistic effects by reflect character's images through their costumes. The purpose of the study was focused on revealing Edith Head's life and work as her creations had a great impact in he field of cinema costumes. It was also to emphasize the forceful affect of cinema costumes on fashion and to disclose the powerful influence of cinema costume designers. The method of the study includes reviews of literature, movies for which she created costumes, her own possessions, and fashion magazines as well as her works that were nominated and chosen for the Academy Awards. Edith head's emphasis in costume design was based on a blend of both simplicity and sophistication avoiding excessive exaggeration and transformation in her work. Her work was also realistic and contemporary. She developed a dramatic ambience through an innovative design while preserving the actor's individual character and uniqueness. Through this accept her her work was highly renowned as an art form as it was gaining popularity. She was also a dominant figure who influenced trends in the areas of fashion magazines, uniforms, and public clothing. In the review of her cinema costumes, it was revealed that the styles of cinema costumes can be as quickly adapted by the public as movies are viewed because the cinema costumes are highly projected through a visual channel. Subsequently, a follow up study on the affect of cinema costumes on fashion would be beneficial.
A Study on Retro-look Fashion Appeared in 1990′s -With Special Reference to The Revival of 1960′s Mode-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 247~263
This study focuses on a comparative study of 1960s'retro look mode in terms of the past and present in order to find out in detail how it in the past is readjusted after it was appeared in the present. For such a study, in the first place the contents of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refined through some literature, and then, some works of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refinded through some literature, and then, some works of eh dress and its ornament revived in 1960's mode were analysed, based on some fashion magazines at home and abroad like Bazaar, Fashion etc News in 1990s. After 1960s'retro-look mode which reappeared in 1990s was researched in terms of silhouette, detail, texture, color, and pattern, differences between those tow periods of 1960s and 1990s and their causes are summarized as follows: 1. In the aspect of silhouette, it appears that the silhouette in 1960s is that of somewhat stiff, charming image in which Body is excluded and the silhouette in 1990s is that of an soft, feminie image in which Body is emphasized. It was understood that the cause of such a delicate difference comes from the influences of the change in aesthetic senses or awareness, naturalism and neo-feminism. 2. In the aspect of detail, it appears that the detail in 1990s is of an attempt to express in diverse images, compared to that in 1960s, and new images are created new image in 1990s by means of presenting entirely ill-matched images. The major cause of that is because of Antistandard fashion. 3. In the aspect of textures, it appears that a great feature is that the texture in 1990s is of that introduced, being changed in natural and high-class looks, compared to that of 1960s. It was reviewed that the major cause of this is because of a result from the influence of naturalism and the technical growth in various fields which has brought the development of dress material. 4. In the aspect of color, it appears that the color in 1990s is of an image of primary color which is far more sensual and feminie than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of ti comes from the influence of neo-feminism, etc. 5. In the aspect of pattern, it appears that the pattern in 1990s is of that of symbolism, transposition, and the ecletic feature of various modes which appear more deeply than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of such changes is because of a trend of postmodernism which has brought the change of the spiritual structure different from that in the age of modernism. In conclusion, it was understood that the retro-look fashion is of an expression technic of dress and its ornament in that o dress in the pst is simply imitate, but new reconstitution is done by using the elements in the past. at the same time, ti was clarified that even though the elements in the past are revived as they were, dress and its ornament is governed by the social and cultural environments of he day, and with this proof it can be said that the fashion in each age is of a reflection of social phenomena of that age.
An Analysis of the Body Measurement for Men s Clothing Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 265~275
The purpose of this study is to analysis men's measurement and index to provide the fundamental information for he clothing design which can reflect the characteristic of their bodies The items of study were composed 34 items in measurement and 3 1items in index. An anthropometric database used for this study was the 1992 national anthropometric survey of Koreans. The range of sample was 1,059 men from 25 to 55 years old. The results obtained are as follows. 1) Men showed statue to waist height was 5 to 3, statue to trochanter height was 2 to 9 and waist height to torso was 5 to 2.1. 2) We have obtained 8 factors from the result of factor analysis in index. 3) As the result of cluster analysis about somatotype, men were types tow which were contrary to each other. And as the result of t-test between type 1 and type 2, upper body (factor 5), at factors(factor2, 6), and body proportion (factor 4) were intent to each other. Therefore type 1 was peculiar about the factors of 2, 5, 6, and type 2 was about factor.
A Study on he Actual Condition of Brassiere for Elderly Women -Focusing on General Environment-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 4, issue 2, 1996, Pages 277~302
The purpose of this study is to suggest fundamental information about wearing method and production of brassiere, which is suitable for physiological hygiene and efficient action for elderly women. The subject is 418 elderly women aged 50∼69 years old. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and is analyzed by using frequency, percentage, x²-test. The main results of this study are as follows. 1. Elderly women'weight and breast size are higher thant their younger counterparts'in their 20's, but the older and poorer women with more children have smaller weight and breast. Most of the elderly women feel that their breasts are drooped or falling apart. I fact, those elderly women who gave birth to more children have more drooped and wider breasts. The major type of elderly women'breast is the 'drooped breast' featured more by those elderly women who have more children. 2. Most of the elderly women began to wear the brassiere for the first time in their 20's the older women with more children began to wear the brassiere earlier, while those less educated and poorer began to protect their breasts with brassiere later. Many elderly women wear the brassiere to be protected from dirt, noise or look more neat, but day tend to wear the brassiere not all day around but at certain times, older, less educated and proper women with more children tend to use the brassiere for etiquette and less often. This group of elderly women feel tedious, stage or uncomfortable for the brassiere. 3. Most of the elderly women know about their brassiere size. Such variables as age, education and income are correlated positively with the interest in and consciousness of the brassiere size. All in all, the statistical distribution of elderly women's brassiere size is very wide, while most of them use 90A, 85A and 95A sizes. On the other hand, the most popular size of the under bust circumference is 85∼90cm, while their primary cup size is A.