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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 5, Issue 4 - Dec 1997
Volume 5, Issue 3 - Dec 1997
Volume 5, Issue 2 - Aug 1997
Volume 5, Issue 1 - Apr 1997
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A Study on Bai Su(背戍)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 1~5
This study is concerned with the bai su(背戍) of Koryo period which recorded in Kei Rim Yu Sa(鷄林類事). Results of this research can be summarized as follows : The record of Bai Su(背戍) in Kei Rim Yu Sa(鷄林類事) was correct. It was not a mistake in writing. Thus, this word(背戍) was used by the people of Koryo. The 背戍 of Koryo was related to Aramaic patash and Japanese byets or bats, バツ. It was found that 背戍 of Koryo was very similar to Aramaic patash, legging. It indicates that 背戍 was derived from Aramaic and it was a transliteration of patash. Thus, 背戍 was a borrowed word from Aramaic. Also it was found that 背戍 of Koryo and Japanese byets(ぺツ) or bats(バツ) showed a very close affininty with each other in phonetic value. These words had the same meanings of 襪 one another. It reveals that 背戍 of Koryo and Japanese byets of bats has the same origins. Japanese byets or bats were transliterations of 背戍 of Koryo and they were borrowed words from 背戍 of Koryo.
A Study on Ma Je Kai Shi(麻帝核試)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 6~11
The purpose of this study was to identify and to trace the source of origins of 麻帝核試 that appears in Kei Rim Yu Sa(鷄林類事). Comparative liguistic analytical approaches ware employed for this study. Results of this study revealed that madi(마디) survives as a dialect for m ∂ri[머리(頭)] in Kyung Sang Province Thus, it si considered that the dialect madi(마디) is a survival of 마디(麻帝) of Koryo. Similar words to 核試 of Koryo were found in Hebrew and Japanese : Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) means locks of hair and Japanese ku-shi(くシ) has several meanings : comb, head, and the hair of the head. The word 麻帝核試 of Koryo is a compound ward of madi(麻帝), head and k ∂ shi(그시) 核試 locks of hair(hair of the head). 核試 of Koryo , Jao. ku shi(くシ), and Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) showed close relationships to one another. The word ku shi(si) 그시 核試 was derived from Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) and Jap. ku shi(くシ) was originated from 核試 of Koryo. Kor. ku shi(si) 그시 核試 is a transliteration of Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) and Jap. ku shi(くシ) is a trans-literation of Kor. ku shi 그시 核試.
A Study on the Changes of the Ancient Underclothes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 12~31
This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.
A Study on Homogeneous Clothing Culture surrounding Bering Strait -Between Northwestern Alaska and Northeastern Siberia -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 32~43
Deprivation of means to study the cultures and history of the natives of Bering Strait in their own lands, gives us and especially U. S. A. and Russia-where the objective regions of this study is pertained to-the great suffering of intellectual and aesthetic losses. Throughout 20th century, as political and economic forces prevailed, it became increasingly difficult for both Natives and outsiders to see this region as having common past. In such difficult circumstances, United Nations Council for Environmental Development held at Rio de Janeiro, Brasil in June, 1992 started out to give obligations to present environmental future. With such trend getting stronger and being in demand, this study is also focussed on coincides with such environmental matters and differs from man centered western civilization which ruled th environment rather than to harmonize with it. Through the studies of fashions and cultural materials of this region, it was able to identify the great similarities between Northwestern Alaska and Northeastern Siberia. Especially in the clothing materials of this region\`s toy dolls, it was possible to confirm that both side of Bering Strait possessed similar culture. Although both side had similar environment, in the past its peoples began to be seen as separated and alienated aligned only with their current political state-Russia and U. S. A. Through this study, it was able to see diversity of the peoples and thir languages but also close cultural and historical ties that link them very closely together. This study verified such similarities and common characteristics through close examination of Native clothing and decorations and other traditions of Siberian Natives such as Yupik, Chukchi, Koryak, Even, Amur River peoples and Nivkh; and Alaskan Natives such as Inupiag, Yupik, Alutiig, Aleut, Athapaskan, and Tlingit.
Analysis of Meaning of Dress on Children`s Painting
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 44~53
The purpose of this study is to analyze dress meanings painted by elementary school girl. As in language, the dress is the symbol and form of non-verval communicator its wearer by means of the mentalistic semantics. Also it is to analyze meanings of dress by applying the semantics of Geoffrey Leech. The followings are the findings of the analysis 1. The conceptual are the findings of the analysis 2. The social meaning is indicating the feminine image. 3. The offective meaning is indicating the aesthetic value.
A Study for Contemporary Fashion Trend in Extended Cultural Conception
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 54~67
Now, this time we regarde as daylife is a part of culture in novelty view of modern culture study. Specially, we can see terms about style surfing supermarket style through visulization process for critic, combination, reconstruction, of modernism, that is post modernism. Not new style show up any more but displayed union of past style history complex, slices of decoration series. A designer group called as memphis, they designed such like that. Our view for fashion could be new in the technology, mixed media, cyber situation is stimulated us and accepted in extened concept of culture. In this study, I approched as a view of streetism cyber punkism haute couture Romanticism linked extension concept of culture. Haute couture fashion has the most historical, and constructive and decorative aspects, and regarded as principle of construction of deconstruction. And this season trend is romantic & emotional image are complexed.
An Analysis of Codes on Brand Image in Fashion Advirtsing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 68~79
In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.
Content Analysis of Jeanwear`s Advertisement -Focusing on Magazine`s Advertisement-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 80~88
The purpose of this study was to identify the denotating of visual message and linguistic message in the advertisement of Jean-wear, and to identify the image type in the advertisement of Jean-wear. Content analysis was done using the advertisement of Jean-wear from several fashion magazines which were published from January, 1996 to August, 1997. The advertisement of Jean-wear reflects the reality using the photos, and is image appeal type, appeals to the model\`s lifestyle, the western value. And that mostly singles person was appeared in the advertisement means solitude in modern society.
A Study on strategic Device of Fashion Merchandising Informatization in Apparel Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 89~111
The purpose of this study is to analyze, centering on the preconditions presented, the actual conditions of fashion merchandising informatization, to find a considerable gap between its preconditions and present situations and to explore the strategic device of fashion merchandising informatization. The study is analyzed through questionary paper to the domestic fashion apparel firms. The collected questionary paper is analyzed with SPSS/PC/sup +/ program and the method of statistical analysis used for this study is t-test, one way ANOVA and frequency analysis. There was a considerable gap between its preconditions and present situations analyzing the actual condition of fashion merchandising infomatization centering on its preconditions. The strategic devices of fashion merchandising informations in order to treat, 1. Each apparel company should consider how they classify the informations in order to treat, accumulate, transfer and manage them effectively. 2. In order to make an environment of fashion merchandising informatizations, each company should arrange, expand and utilize informatization instruments. Also they should consider the case to utilize an inside or outside information center effectively.
A Study on Divided Shirt Pattern -Fro influential Factor on the Appearance and the Function-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 112~129
This research, focused on the curved of the lower body, designated abdomen and hip gradient, crotch depth and crotch width the factors for which are able to influence on the appearence and the function of Divided Skirt and analized the changes when that were applied to a real pattern, and so the purpose of this research is to show the basic documents needed to design a Divided Skirt pattern fitting with the wear purpose and usage. The following are the results of this research. 1. The abdomen and hip gradient turned out as the most influential factor on the appearance and the function of Divided Skirt. The pattern of which the abdomen and hip gradient was designated as vertical zero degree, showed an excellent appearance and in case of function, the pattern of which thw angle of the abdomen and hip gradient of human body type was applied to itself without a particular designation turned out excellent. 2. In case of crotch depth, the pattern which had crotch depth＋2㎝, had a better appearance but influced nothing on function. 3. The factor of crotch width didn\`t have any influence on the appearance and function of Divided Skirt. 4. Referring to the results of the above, the Divided Skirt pattern of which the appearance and the function turned excellent, had the angle of abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle of hip gradient/2+2.5 degrees, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type. In case of Divied Skirt worn when going out, the pattern which had the angle of abdomen and hip gradient vertical zero degree, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type, turned out suitable. Also, the suitable pattern of Divided Skirt for working had the abdomen and hip gradient following human body type, crotch depth+2㎝ and covering girth diameter/2±1㎝.
The Study of Classification Body Types of Adults Women and Drawing of Prototype of Clothing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 130~158
This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.
A Study on the Development of a Tailored Jacket Evaluation Instrument
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 5, issue 4, 1997, Pages 159~165
The purpose of this study was to develop Semantic Differential Scales with Tailored Jacket. Sixteen slides were made from selected Jacket which were representatives of four types of Jackets. The slides were shown to college students and graduate school students. The students were asked to describe their responses to each slide in Korean adjectives. In order to extract the representative and the frequency each adjective was calculated. As a results, 35 adjectives-elegant, graceful, neat, mature, slim, formal, natural, brisk, comfortable, etc-were selected. Therefore the Semantic Differential Scales composed of 35 pairs adjectives were developed.